3.5 Swap completed...Got fuel cut off problems past 5k rpms.
08-07-2006, 08:15 PM
#41
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wow peter, you're so close! Get those 3.5 cams in and hopefully your problems will be solved. But I don't understand how the cams could lead to this cutoff at 5k...when I first heard it, I also thought it was fuel or ECU related, becuase you say the engine runs strong up until that low cutoff...hopefully you'll get this sorted out soon, and how do you like the 3.5 so far?
EDIT: and
to the post above...there are many people on the .org who can be very helpful without being obnoxious. 
EDIT: and
to the post above...there are many people on the .org who can be very helpful without being obnoxious.
08-07-2006, 08:54 PM
#43
Hi collin, long time, I'm glad you can chime in for a little bit. So far, I'm pretty optimistic about getting this thing sorted out. My mechanics has done countless Nissan jobs, lately, VQ engines. So I totally trust him with resolving my issues. Only set back is that I can't be there because I'm still working in New Orleans. But I'll return later in the week to help out.
Dude, I love the 3.5, especially with the cams on there. It's got that nicely tamed rumble at idle and when it revs up it sounded pretty mean even below 5k rpms. I like it alot. Just can't wait.
Only thing I may not like right now is that idle shake due to the cams. It's got a tad more shake than my acceptable range. But other than that, it's sweet. The pick up is incredible. Didn't know 200+ tq is like this. Well, that's all I can say right now.
Dude, I love the 3.5, especially with the cams on there. It's got that nicely tamed rumble at idle and when it revs up it sounded pretty mean even below 5k rpms. I like it alot. Just can't wait.
Only thing I may not like right now is that idle shake due to the cams. It's got a tad more shake than my acceptable range. But other than that, it's sweet. The pick up is incredible. Didn't know 200+ tq is like this. Well, that's all I can say right now.
08-08-2006, 08:09 AM
#44
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Originally Posted by GodFather
Hi collin, long time, I'm glad you can chime in for a little bit. So far, I'm pretty optimistic about getting this thing sorted out. My mechanics has done countless Nissan jobs, lately, VQ engines. So I totally trust him with resolving my issues. Only set back is that I can't be there because I'm still working in New Orleans. But I'll return later in the week to help out.
Dude, I love the 3.5, especially with the cams on there. It's got that nicely tamed rumble at idle and when it revs up it sounded pretty mean even below 5k rpms. I like it alot. Just can't wait.
Only thing I may not like right now is that idle shake due to the cams. It's got a tad more shake than my acceptable range. But other than that, it's sweet. The pick up is incredible. Didn't know 200+ tq is like this. Well, that's all I can say right now.
Dude, I love the 3.5, especially with the cams on there. It's got that nicely tamed rumble at idle and when it revs up it sounded pretty mean even below 5k rpms. I like it alot. Just can't wait.
Only thing I may not like right now is that idle shake due to the cams. It's got a tad more shake than my acceptable range. But other than that, it's sweet. The pick up is incredible. Didn't know 200+ tq is like this. Well, that's all I can say right now.
08-08-2006, 08:25 AM
#46
Yeah, we've checked the fuel system. First, there's no leaks, fuel pump is normal. and injectors are good. Though they are a tad bit small compared to the 3.5 setup, I don't think my fuel setup is supposed to starve out can cause this problem.
I've been having problems with over 4 jwt cam installs. None of which was successful. We'll try 3.5 stock cams just in case. We now really think this is timing related. Not fuel.
Yeah, well, you're moving over to BR anyways, it'll be really easy for you to come to our meets. In fact, we should have a meet next week at BWW's. It's been long since we all haven't seen each other. So this will be the meet to conclude our summer breaks. BTW, I've been driving my girlfriend's 97 maxima to work at new orleans when my car is down. So there's no problem. Besides, I have an apartment right on French Quarger on top of House of Blues. It's really close to my company's business unit. As long as I can get to my apartment, I can easily ride a cab or a bus to work.
-Peter-
I've been having problems with over 4 jwt cam installs. None of which was successful. We'll try 3.5 stock cams just in case. We now really think this is timing related. Not fuel.
Yeah, well, you're moving over to BR anyways, it'll be really easy for you to come to our meets. In fact, we should have a meet next week at BWW's. It's been long since we all haven't seen each other. So this will be the meet to conclude our summer breaks. BTW, I've been driving my girlfriend's 97 maxima to work at new orleans when my car is down. So there's no problem. Besides, I have an apartment right on French Quarger on top of House of Blues. It's really close to my company's business unit. As long as I can get to my apartment, I can easily ride a cab or a bus to work.
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 08:27 AM
#47
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Peter what's the cut at 5k rpms like - a hard cut like the stock one where it slams a wall or a soft one like a bog?
It's a blend of bog and wall slam. It's a quick feel of bog, about 2 to 3 jerks within a second, then it's just cut off like slamming to a wall. But it would be okay once it's below 5k rpms. Idles smooth and drives like a normal car, just can't go past 5k.
08-08-2006, 08:39 AM
#48
And those splitfire coils worked well before? No issues with them?
If you've already checked the electronics (ie grounds, sensors) and the cam timing is good then to me the way you describe it with a bog first it almost sounds like a mixture problem. But I think you really need to get a datalogger on there, either a scanner or preferably a Consult. That will be your best bet to see what's going on.
BTW, I forget, you are stick shift right?
If you've already checked the electronics (ie grounds, sensors) and the cam timing is good then to me the way you describe it with a bog first it almost sounds like a mixture problem. But I think you really need to get a datalogger on there, either a scanner or preferably a Consult. That will be your best bet to see what's going on.
BTW, I forget, you are stick shift right?
08-08-2006, 08:44 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by GodFather
Yeah, we've checked the fuel system. First, there's no leaks, fuel pump is normal. and injectors are good. Though they are a tad bit small compared to the 3.5 setup, I don't think my fuel setup is supposed to starve out can cause this problem.
I've been having problems with over 4 jwt cam installs. None of which was successful. We'll try 3.5 stock cams just in case. We now really think this is timing related. Not fuel.
Yeah, well, you're moving over to BR anyways, it'll be really easy for you to come to our meets. In fact, we should have a meet next week at BWW's. It's been long since we all haven't seen each other. So this will be the meet to conclude our summer breaks. BTW, I've been driving my girlfriend's 97 maxima to work at new orleans when my car is down. So there's no problem. Besides, I have an apartment right on French Quarger on top of House of Blues. It's really close to my company's business unit. As long as I can get to my apartment, I can easily ride a cab or a bus to work.
-Peter-
I've been having problems with over 4 jwt cam installs. None of which was successful. We'll try 3.5 stock cams just in case. We now really think this is timing related. Not fuel.
Yeah, well, you're moving over to BR anyways, it'll be really easy for you to come to our meets. In fact, we should have a meet next week at BWW's. It's been long since we all haven't seen each other. So this will be the meet to conclude our summer breaks. BTW, I've been driving my girlfriend's 97 maxima to work at new orleans when my car is down. So there's no problem. Besides, I have an apartment right on French Quarger on top of House of Blues. It's really close to my company's business unit. As long as I can get to my apartment, I can easily ride a cab or a bus to work.
-Peter-
BWW's sounds good...I have a few things going on but We'll make a thread in the regional forums and talk about it there.
08-08-2006, 10:15 AM
#51
Originally Posted by DandyMax
And those splitfire coils worked well before? No issues with them?
If you've already checked the electronics (ie grounds, sensors) and the cam timing is good then to me the way you describe it with a bog first it almost sounds like a mixture problem. But I think you really need to get a datalogger on there, either a scanner or preferably a Consult. That will be your best bet to see what's going on.
BTW, I forget, you are stick shift right?
If you've already checked the electronics (ie grounds, sensors) and the cam timing is good then to me the way you describe it with a bog first it almost sounds like a mixture problem. But I think you really need to get a datalogger on there, either a scanner or preferably a Consult. That will be your best bet to see what's going on.
BTW, I forget, you are stick shift right?
Thanks Dandymax
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 10:23 AM
#52
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
Alright, so I don't know much about how timing changes as the engine speed does, so do you think it's too far advanced with the cams which leads the ECU to trigger a fuel cut? I'm trying to get to know engines better, so just bear with me! lol
BWW's sounds good...I have a few things going on but We'll make a thread in the regional forums and talk about it there.
BWW's sounds good...I have a few things going on but We'll make a thread in the regional forums and talk about it there.
You can go look in howstuffworks.com to start it off with. They have updated their cam talks lately and they have nice full animated graphics on how these things work. So if you wanna learn something, you can go there and grab whatever you can. But I have to tell you, the info they give you is very superficial. You'd have to get better resources to get the actual numbers and calculations.
I thought it was advanced too much timing that got me into this mess. But I called JWT up, and they said these cams on a 3.0 are going to only advance by 2 degrees, they made pounding statements to me that these cams will not throw my engine off to cut off.
Anyways, so did you find an apt over here, yet? Which school are you going to? because if you are coming to LSU, I can get you a good apartment next door to mine for relatively cheap. It's a 2 bedroom apt with tile floors, in-house laundry, kitchen, and fridge. All you need is your bed, couch, and a tv, and you're good to live out this football season. My apt is 15 minutes walking to the Tigerstadium. And you have parking right outside of the apt doors. Plus a back yard. It's 630/month but other apts like this on the same street are well over 700. So, let me know and we will have lot's of maxima's on this street.
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 10:31 AM
#53
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by GodFather
You can go look in howstuffworks.com to start it off with. They have updated their cam talks lately and they have nice full animated graphics on how these things work. So if you wanna learn something, you can go there and grab whatever you can. But I have to tell you, the info they give you is very superficial. You'd have to get better resources to get the actual numbers and calculations.
I thought it was advanced too much timing that got me into this mess. But I called JWT up, and they said these cams on a 3.0 are going to only advance by 2 degrees, they made pounding statements to me that these cams will not throw my engine off to cut off.
Anyways, so did you find an apt over here, yet? Which school are you going to? because if you are coming to LSU, I can get you a good apartment next door to mine for relatively cheap. It's a 2 bedroom apt with tile floors, in-house laundry, kitchen, and fridge. All you need is your bed, couch, and a tv, and you're good to live out this football season. My apt is 15 minutes walking to the Tigerstadium. And you have parking right outside of the apt doors. Plus a back yard. It's 630/month but other apts like this on the same street are well over 700. So, let me know and we will have lot's of maxima's on this street.
-Peter-
I thought it was advanced too much timing that got me into this mess. But I called JWT up, and they said these cams on a 3.0 are going to only advance by 2 degrees, they made pounding statements to me that these cams will not throw my engine off to cut off.
Anyways, so did you find an apt over here, yet? Which school are you going to? because if you are coming to LSU, I can get you a good apartment next door to mine for relatively cheap. It's a 2 bedroom apt with tile floors, in-house laundry, kitchen, and fridge. All you need is your bed, couch, and a tv, and you're good to live out this football season. My apt is 15 minutes walking to the Tigerstadium. And you have parking right outside of the apt doors. Plus a back yard. It's 630/month but other apts like this on the same street are well over 700. So, let me know and we will have lot's of maxima's on this street.
-Peter-
I wish I would have talked to you earlier, because I had a hell of a time finding an apt. I called every single one in the apt. guide and two had openings, but both were in areas i didn't want to live in...i finally just happened to walk into one where someone had just put in their notice. It's on College Dr. and the people are moving out on the 10th, so I really don't know when i can move in. It's a 1 bedroom and I'm paying $530/mo. I am going to LSU and I'm going into mechanical engineering, which is why I'm all of a sudden interested in how the mechanical parts of combustion engines work
08-08-2006, 11:00 AM
#55
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
yeah, i know the basics about the cams, but i just don't understand how engine speed affects anything, because aren't the cams geared to rotate exactly 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft? I don't understand how the ignition timing can change throughout the RPM band because of this...
I wish I would have talked to you earlier, because I had a hell of a time finding an apt. I called every single one in the apt. guide and two had openings, but both were in areas i didn't want to live in...i finally just happened to walk into one where someone had just put in their notice. It's on College Dr. and the people are moving out on the 10th, so I really don't know when i can move in. It's a 1 bedroom and I'm paying $530/mo. I am going to LSU and I'm going into mechanical engineering, which is why I'm all of a sudden interested in how the mechanical parts of combustion engines work
I wish I would have talked to you earlier, because I had a hell of a time finding an apt. I called every single one in the apt. guide and two had openings, but both were in areas i didn't want to live in...i finally just happened to walk into one where someone had just put in their notice. It's on College Dr. and the people are moving out on the 10th, so I really don't know when i can move in. It's a 1 bedroom and I'm paying $530/mo. I am going to LSU and I'm going into mechanical engineering, which is why I'm all of a sudden interested in how the mechanical parts of combustion engines work
I was in mechanical engineering till hurricane Katrina struck and knocked out lots of LSU's usual classes and activities. I have merged into Industrial Engineering and am able to graduate a little bit earlier than Mech Engr. Well, You'll be meeting lots of azzhole teachers in Mechanical engr of LSU. They are hard ball sucker who wouldn't negotiate snit with ya. So good luck. If at all you're feeling a little iffy about it, you need to switch right away because it'll only become more difficult as you go along. So you watch that.
Well, if you are in any engineering majors, you'd mostly be hanging around in the CEBA building. That's my home, man. I work for LSU ITS, and I station at the main computer lab down stairs. So if you ever run into anything you need, come holla at me. I'm mostly there between classes. If you wanna work, I can even hook you up with a job there.
When you get outta college, I can hook you up with a 6figure/year job offshores, provided that you do pretty good in college. So, keep in touch and good luck.
08-08-2006, 11:04 AM
#57
Peter,
I understand the anxiety, however you're NOT asking the dealer to fix anything. All you are asking is for them to charge you the time for one of their techs to ride along with you with the Consult plugged into the OBD port, ie don't even have to open the hood. I've heard of people doing this for as cheap as FREE to maybe a max of $150 depending on how long/extensive it takes.
I'd bet you could talk a tech into helping diagnose a "350Z" engine swap into a Maxima. I'm sure someone there would be interested enough to see what you've done and possibly take a Consult out after hours.
I've never done this myself, but I know others who have had techs do work on their own time for a reasonable charge. The BIG issue is finding a tech that really knows how to work a Consult, so you get some useful logs.
Couldn't you at least try while you wait for StephenMax spacers to arrive?
I understand the anxiety, however you're NOT asking the dealer to fix anything. All you are asking is for them to charge you the time for one of their techs to ride along with you with the Consult plugged into the OBD port, ie don't even have to open the hood. I've heard of people doing this for as cheap as FREE to maybe a max of $150 depending on how long/extensive it takes.
I'd bet you could talk a tech into helping diagnose a "350Z" engine swap into a Maxima. I'm sure someone there would be interested enough to see what you've done and possibly take a Consult out after hours.
I've never done this myself, but I know others who have had techs do work on their own time for a reasonable charge. The BIG issue is finding a tech that really knows how to work a Consult, so you get some useful logs.
Couldn't you at least try while you wait for StephenMax spacers to arrive?
Originally Posted by GodFather
Yes, I agree with datalogging, the dealership has it, but my mechanics told me to wait till we install the 3.5 cams and see. We just want to work out all the options before we spend big bucks on the stealership to "take a look" at it. You know what I mean, it's all money talks at the dealership. Besides, with the stuff I'm doing to my car, they probably will blame everything on my setup. This engine bay is having parts from 4 different nissan cars to rebuild; I'm not sure how well they are going to respond to my requests.
Thanks Dandymax
-Peter-
Thanks Dandymax
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 11:06 AM
#58
Originally Posted by nismology
.......
Not ignoring you at all, but if my mechanics wants to do this, let him. It's the same price no matter how many times he'd re-installs my car. So, that's not a big deal. If he wants to prove me. that's fine. But between me and you, I do see what you're saying, but I wouldn't wanna go to him and try to challenge his many years of vq-xperience. Thanks, Nismology.
08-08-2006, 11:42 AM
#60
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
BTW, you'll probably want the tech to bump your idle up to 900rpm or so anyways using the Consult, so you can kill two birds with one stone hopefully.
Actually, my idle is safe at 750rpms. It's really rough and rumbly, but it never at all seem to be out of breath, not even once in the 20 minutes of operation. I actually like the idle because is sounds like an american muscle car. I did bump up the idle with the throttle adjustment and IACV, and 900 is a tad bit off the rumble, so I put the idle back down to 750 rpms. We've also adjust lower to see when it will die out. To our surprise, it didn't go till 480rpms. But 600 and below shakes the car outta breath pretty bad. This motor setup is very mean so far. I just have to get it to rev right.
The guys at AllStar Nissan Stealership wants to charge me 70 dollars up front. They dont' give the opportunity for me to negotiate. The service department has this man in charge and he's all "business". That's why I really don't like to go to them. There's another one a few blocks away, but I doubt they will be any easier on me.
The thing is, I also have to respect my mechanic guy, too. If he says no datalogging is needed, I'm not going to hardface myself and take the car down to do it and **** him off. It's okay, besides, I'm a whole hour away at work from the shop. I won't return to town till this Friday anyways. No hassles, just a few more days to wait. I can bare with it.
Thanks again, Icey.
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 12:46 PM
#61
Ignorant mechanics ftl
I still think it is reading rpms wrong as I posted earlier. Tell them you want to hook up the EU while the car is down and you have nothing else to do. So you can just connect the wires to read and log rpms
I still think it is reading rpms wrong as I posted earlier. Tell them you want to hook up the EU while the car is down and you have nothing else to do. So you can just connect the wires to read and log rpms
08-08-2006, 01:10 PM
#62
Boy, Kevlo, you're really going at it, aren't you? I guess you'd be the only person capable to talk my ears off into doing things just because you've been so much a yap about it. LOL.
I am thinking about it, but there's more complications than that at this time: I got the EU and its wiring harnesses, but I do not have the USB connector cable, nor do I have the software to put on my laptop.
firmware-wise, all I know so far is how to rig those 3 bundles of wires up.
Software-wise, I do not know how to set it up. Sorry, but I bought this from some jackazz on Ebay and he didn't give me everything. And I've not done much reading on this yet because I was still trying to 3.5 my car.
So, can you tell me what I need to do to install this EU? I did look into the stickie, but they advertised EU along with Smt6/7 and all, but they really didn't say much about EU. And EU threads usually have long and many posts behind it. It scares me to read them up.
We need a full sticky thread for EU because it's becoming a fully integrateble tuning piggy back for our cars. Generally, It should be placed independent of the other not-so-functional tuning systems.
I am thinking about it, but there's more complications than that at this time: I got the EU and its wiring harnesses, but I do not have the USB connector cable, nor do I have the software to put on my laptop.
firmware-wise, all I know so far is how to rig those 3 bundles of wires up.
Software-wise, I do not know how to set it up. Sorry, but I bought this from some jackazz on Ebay and he didn't give me everything. And I've not done much reading on this yet because I was still trying to 3.5 my car.
So, can you tell me what I need to do to install this EU? I did look into the stickie, but they advertised EU along with Smt6/7 and all, but they really didn't say much about EU. And EU threads usually have long and many posts behind it. It scares me to read them up.
We need a full sticky thread for EU because it's becoming a fully integrateble tuning piggy back for our cars. Generally, It should be placed independent of the other not-so-functional tuning systems.
08-08-2006, 01:15 PM
#63
Download the software/firmware from www.mohdparts.com v2.0 has the the crank signals in it.
I used the usb cable from my printer. They sell at walmart for like 6-10 bucks.
In DANDY's thread it tells you what wires need to be hooked to the EU to read rpm and timing. That thread is in the Supercharged forum.
I used the usb cable from my printer. They sell at walmart for like 6-10 bucks.
In DANDY's thread it tells you what wires need to be hooked to the EU to read rpm and timing. That thread is in the Supercharged forum.
08-08-2006, 01:25 PM
#66
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Download the software/firmware from www.mohdparts.com v2.0 has the the crank signals in it.
I used the usb cable from my printer. They sell at walmart for like 6-10 bucks.
In DANDY's thread it tells you what wires need to be hooked to the EU to read rpm and timing. That thread is in the Supercharged forum.
I used the usb cable from my printer. They sell at walmart for like 6-10 bucks.
In DANDY's thread it tells you what wires need to be hooked to the EU to read rpm and timing. That thread is in the Supercharged forum.
alright, so let me get this straight...
I got the EU, laptop, 3 harnesses, and just need a usb cable and that v2.0 software. Then I'm good to go? Is it that 2.0beta the only software I need?
And if I get it to install correctly, what will happen right away? I know I can't just crank it up, I'd have to use the laptop to connect to it first and set it to some "vq30det" maps to run it. And will that default vq30det setting be okay to run my car already? or do I have to mess with tuning for days before I can drive the car?
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 01:26 PM
#67
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Na it's not that hard. Just time comsuming.
It scares the snit out of me already, by looking at it.
Also, they have full and updates, do I need to install a full before I install the 2.0beta update?
08-08-2006, 01:27 PM
#68
Actually, you will need to download a "full" version and then install the "update".
Yes just set the EU to VQ30DET and it should start right up like stock. No need to tune or anything.
I didn't hook up the Knock or RPM or Intaketemp wires. There are a few more too...
Yes just set the EU to VQ30DET and it should start right up like stock. No need to tune or anything.
I didn't hook up the Knock or RPM or Intaketemp wires. There are a few more too...
08-08-2006, 01:29 PM
#69
Yes, that's all you need.
Follow the easy instructions on the mohd site on how to download the VQ30DET configuration to the EU from your laptop.
After that...just need to start/stop a log, save it, and show it here.
Follow the easy instructions on the mohd site on how to download the VQ30DET configuration to the EU from your laptop.
After that...just need to start/stop a log, save it, and show it here.
Originally Posted by GodFather
alright, so let me get this straight...
I got the EU, laptop, 3 harnesses, and just need a usb cable and that v2.0 software. Then I'm good to go? Is it that 2.0beta the only software I need?
And if I get it to install correctly, what will happen right away? I know I can't just crank it up, I'd have to use the laptop to connect to it first and set it to some "vq30det" maps to run it. And will that default vq30det setting be okay to run my car already? or do I have to mess with tuning for days before I can drive the car?
-Peter-
I got the EU, laptop, 3 harnesses, and just need a usb cable and that v2.0 software. Then I'm good to go? Is it that 2.0beta the only software I need?
And if I get it to install correctly, what will happen right away? I know I can't just crank it up, I'd have to use the laptop to connect to it first and set it to some "vq30det" maps to run it. And will that default vq30det setting be okay to run my car already? or do I have to mess with tuning for days before I can drive the car?
-Peter-
08-08-2006, 01:30 PM
#70
Thanks Kevlo, I know what to do with it now. It's all looking good from here. I think I'll push the EU into my priority list now. I was reluctant because I really dont' know anything about it.
Oh yeah, I'll be getting a plxm300 wideband soon, how does that thing integrate with my EU?
Oh yeah, I'll be getting a plxm300 wideband soon, how does that thing integrate with my EU?
08-08-2006, 01:32 PM
#71
Install the full v1.09 and then the update v2.00.
When you connect to the EU with your laptop, it will ask you to update the firmware. Again, follow the instructions in the manuals off mohds site.
When you connect to the EU with your laptop, it will ask you to update the firmware. Again, follow the instructions in the manuals off mohds site.
Originally Posted by GodFather
It scares the snit out of me already, by looking at it.
Also, they have full and updates, do I need to install a full before I install the 2.0beta update?
Also, they have full and updates, do I need to install a full before I install the 2.0beta update?
08-08-2006, 01:33 PM
#73
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Yes, that's all you need.
Follow the easy instructions on the mohd site on how to download the VQ30DET configuration to the EU from your laptop.
After that...just need to start/stop a log, save it, and show it here.
Follow the easy instructions on the mohd site on how to download the VQ30DET configuration to the EU from your laptop.
After that...just need to start/stop a log, save it, and show it here.
Wo, wo, wo ,wo, wo...I'd have to download a map for the vq30det? I thought we'd select that map from the software that I'd already installed? Sorry for my newb que on this issue. I really don't know anything. LOL.
Well, try to knock this question: Can I get one of you guys who's got a really good tuned map and download that map to my EU? If I have to tune it, I know I'll blow it up sooner than ever. LOL.
08-08-2006, 01:34 PM
#74
Read......
Originally Posted by GodFather
Wo, wo, wo ,wo, wo...I'd have to download a map for the vq30det? I thought we'd select that map from the software that I'd already installed? Sorry for my newb que on this issue. I really don't know anything. LOL.
Well, try to knock this question: Can I get one of you guys who's got a really good tuned map and download that map to my EU? If I have to tune it, I know I'll blow it up sooner than ever. LOL.
Well, try to knock this question: Can I get one of you guys who's got a really good tuned map and download that map to my EU? If I have to tune it, I know I'll blow it up sooner than ever. LOL.
08-08-2006, 01:35 PM
#76
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
You need an AF harness or mod the Profec Mapsensor harness or Make your own harness to connect it to the EU.
08-08-2006, 01:37 PM
#78
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ult...ual/index.html
Originally Posted by GodFather
Gotcha...Thanks again.
08-08-2006, 01:44 PM
#79
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Appreciate it. I'm printing those puppies out of company's ink and paper expenses right now.