Yeah, I will do that too. Mine came in a beat up box with just the emanage unit and 3 bundles of wires. Nothing else. And that f#cker took almost 2 months to ship the missing MAP sensor he'd promised in the auction. I wasn't completely satisfied with him because he said this is brand new in the box and everything, but obviously, he'd used it already. And it's ebay shopping, what more can I expect?

 

I told you I'd help you install EMU. Just let me know if you want to install ahead of schedule.

 

Yeah thanks, Spig. I'll definitely call you up when I'm ready to install it.

Org is good so far. Everyone's so helpful.

 

I've been meaning to get around to doing an EU install write-up just haven't had time...

But what's been said already is correct Peter. There is an operation manual and an installation manual. DL both and read through them, a lot of it becomes self explanatory. Feel free to PM me if you need more info or have detailed questions after reading through them.

 

GodFather, are you going to be selling your JWT 3.0L camshafts ? Let me know I am interested.

 

You know I was reading an old post of yours earlier today and you were bashing those cams.

 

But ofcourse I bash anything that is very expenssive and doesn't provide good gains.... If anything I will do the 3.5L cams in mine, I don't plan on doing a 3.5L swap ever, my 160+K mile DE-K runs like new.

 

Hehe...i might be installing the 3.5 cams in a local's 2000. I wonder what the gains would be like...

 

Well I need to do my timing chain tensioner soon, plus install a buncha chromed out engine pieces- like timing chain cover etc..... so I figured why not put cams in there.

 

Blackbird, I do not plan on selling my JWT 3.0 cams at all. I want to keep them for my other cars when time comes around. We got 5 4th gen maxima's in the family. If these cams can't go in mine, it'll go in my girlfriend's, or brother's. Besides, I really don't like re-selling the mods that I bought. It's too much hassle and obligations to have to sell and ship. When I really don't need something, I just give them away to the local Maxima guys. I've given away a spec stage 3 clutc kit, an engine block for rebuild, and a 5 speed tranny for my brother's swap.

 

Thanks Dandy, I'll start reading within a day or two, I've been so busy with work lately.

 

My 110+K mile DE(+K) runs fine too... but I'm still dying to do a swap...

 

i think youre going the right way with the 3.5 cams. starting with a stock setup lets you limit the number of parts that could be the problem. since you cant rev it when driving but you can slowly in neutral, i really wouldnt be too surprised if it were a fuel problem. try revving really slow next time to see.

 

I hope you stay w/3L and show what it is truely capable of.

Any chance you'd do cams before a VQ35 swap?

 

Man, you know... it would be tempting on some level to go farther with the 3L, but the power difference and possibilities on the 3.5 are so much greater. I can't run 11's on the 3L...

And unlike the 3L, when I do the 3.5 I intend to go all out with it. In fact that's partly why I don't want to sink much more money/time into the 3L. No disrespect to anyone intended, but IMHO most of the 3.5 swaps to date have left a lot on the table... plus I am planning some things that I expect/hope will push the envelope significantly beyond what's been done to date.

Now having said that if someone gave me some cams for nothing or nearly nothing I'd sure consider installing them on the 3L... But I REALLY can't spend much more at all on the car this year, there just is no budget left when you factor in the purchase of a house and a major vacation expenditure.

I am still aiming to hit 12's in the 3L this season yet though. If I could ever get my car back on the road and once the weather cools off...

 

Dandy, any chance you can show me what mods you got for your 3.0? I used to work really hard and spent lots of money on making a 3.0 N/A screamer, but camshafts kept giving me problems after I dumped in about 4 thousand dollars. It didn't start with that much money, but when problems kept appearing, I kept paying more to fix it and now the motor just quit on me. That's why I am dropping in the 3.5. But after I disassemble the 3.0, I found a snapped rear bank camshaft timing chain. That's the root cause of my car broken down on the interstates. But up until this day, I am still very interested of what a 3.0 can do after tuning.

I was aiming to supercharge my 3.0 with EU tuning, but I guess it's all going into the 3.5 now, which is folds better. But I wouldn't mind keep doing the 3.0 if that motor didn't break down. After the problems are resolved, the first thing I'd do is to install the EU. I am really wondering now what my new setup can do with EU tuning. But I'm still interested in 3.0 performances. So I hope to see what mods you have and what dyno or track times you've achieved.

-Peter-

 

By the way, the 3.5 cam spacers are on their way to my shop. We'll take down the timing assembly again tomorrow to prepare for the 3.5 cams.

 

EU done ?

 

Thanks Kevlo,

Here's the deal...

We've got the timing cover off again. And are getting ready to eat an early lunch (I eat lunch with these guys, they are so cool). Then we sat there by the car and looked "plainly" at the timnig marks...It's off by half a tooth at the crank section! This may explain the whole thing. We cam positions would be thrown off by this misaligment. Last time we checked this, we lined up the crank first and then the cams sprockets, I guess it turned by a slight bit just to get the chain to seat in. I know it's kinda hard to turn that crank sprocket, but that has to be it, it's obvisously off by about half a tooth.

So, we'll redo it and see. If not, we'll go with the old plan...3.5 cams and then try EU.

 

Yeah that should fix it.

 

How is timing off half a tooth?? Anyway, when you get it started the next time, let it idle for a few minutes before revving it so the air can be bled out of the tensioner. Just to make sure nothing skips...

 

Gentlemen, we have "lift off"!!!

After a short lunch, we put our azzes to work and got it to align for the last time. It was off by half a tooth because the timing chain wasn't really taught and seated when we installed it the last time. After we align all the sprockets first, then slap the chain on "from cams to the crank" sprockets...Tensioners seemed taught, all tooth are at perfect positions, and chain cover went on: We got lift off!!!


This thing sounds mean! It revs to stock redline smoothly and loudly! It's a beast under that hood now. We then tested the Jwt7200 ECU; it went to 7350 with no problems! Took it out for a little spin, bringing the rev to about 6k, then 7k, and no problems, car pulls hard. Very torquey and got nice high end responses. When it idles, it's got a nice grin...grin...grin...grin from the rough loping. I love this thing!!! It's so cool.

Thanks a lot for all of you trying to help me. I guess I won't need to put on the 3.5 cams anymore. Only thing left is...JWT dont' know how much overlap their 3.0 cams got. I have a feeling that they don't want to tell me. But they promised me that it'll run fine with the superchargers.

Well, Walbro fuel pump, FPR, Wideband, and EU will go in there next. Then the end of this year, I'll supercharge it at 6psi's first. Then change it to 14 psi's after confirming 6psi's are safe.


Does anyone know how can we find out how to calculate overlap specs? I read a bunch of articles, but none of which can actually determine overlaps. I think I remember seeing the FSM talking about the stock overlap and the degrees intake and exhaust are opend and closed. I think If I replace those specs with JWT's, I may be able to get that out. But I've never done something like this before. So if anyone can help, I'd be appreciating it first. At one point I thought jwt 3.0's got 0 degree overlaps, but I can't confirm that anymore.


But thanks guys...


-Peter-

 

There's no real way to tell except to install them and turn the crank with a degree wheel. They give lift and duration specs but that means nothing if you dont know the precise position of the intake and exhaust cams relative to each other.

Glad you got it working. I figured it wasn't the cams' fault.

 

Why wouldn't JWT know the specs of their own cams

Congrats on getting the car working

 

your car's gonna eat mine for breakfast now

 

SWEET!

Get the EU installed and dyno that bish.

 

Thanks a lot. Everyone.

JWT's Ben is a money maker. He's got lots of money from my pocket into his company, but when it comes down to getting the specs, he can only tell me what it shows on the advertisement. I think he's just keeping this info for proprietary reasons.

Well, without know the exact cams specs, I do have doubts about running the 14psi supercharger setup. I'm gonna research as much as possible before I install it.

Collin, I will not be eat your car for breakfast, I don't think. I still got to work on getting the 00vi before I can do much. I have my doubts over this mevi here. After the vi opened twice, it quit on me. I checked the summit switch, it's fine, then vacuum bottle has vacuum, butterfly valve actuator works, too. But the solenoid switch is probably bad, it doesn't sound like it's discharging. I'll look into it in a little bit. But car is running strong still and I like the torque. Also, there's a import faceoff coming up on the 15th of October at NoProblemRaceway. They have dyno sessions at 40 bucks per 2 pulls. Collin, you should try to come, too. It'll be fun, they got gun show, autocross, drag race and martial arts competitions. And wet t-shirt and bikini contests. I can probably get free admissions for us because I have relations to the sponsors.


-Peter-

 

lol, i was just kidding. I could care less, which is why my car is stock

How much have you driven your car since it's been running? The vi isnt working at all anymore, or it's intermittent? When are you planning on getting the 00vi?

As for the import faceoff, it sounds like a lot of fun. I don't think I would dyno, considering I'm stock, but it'd be fun to go and hang out. look in the regional forums and let me know what you think

 

hi peter, nice your car is running good now. of course you got to give me a ride when i come over next saturday.

 

LOL, no problem. I'll let you have a dip into this newborn beast. LOL.

almost forgot to give you this...

10970 Florida BLVD
Baton Rouge, LA 70815


Other than that, just show up to town and come off Siegan or Bluebonnet and call me...

 

First off congradulations on getting the car to work properly.

I'm a little confused though as to why you want to put the 00VI on the 3.5 setup? Pardon my noobness but I haven't heard of anyone talking about matching the the 00VI manifold on the 3.5 block.

 

He's running the Pathy heads, which the 00VI bolts up to and runners line up together.

 

First off, congrats on getting the 3.5 running properly! I'm looking forward to a dyno once you get it finished and tuned with the EU!

The 3L still has lots of potential, but even more so the 3.5L. You asked about my mods, dynos, track times etc... since I see you've donated, please do a search for threads I've created in the 1/4 mi and dyno forums. There are several recent ones there that have my timeslips and mods listed as well as a video or two.

But to give you a brief rundown, last year the car dyno'd around 220whp and I haven't dyno'd yet this year but when I do I'm expecting it to be around the 230 - 240 range. As for track times, my PB's are currently a 1.76 60ft, and 13.13@104.41.

Note that all of the stats above are without aftermarket clutch, cams, or flywheel and are completely N/A.

 

Thanks Dandy, I will start looking for those threads later. I'm a little busy with this 3.5 right now, and I can't wait till I can tune it up with the EU. And thanks to all of you who helped me understand the EU setup this time. I got it down pretty good now. I will read it over maybe 2 more times just to get the kicks into my stomache before I really do it. I like to know the game before I start playing it.

 

Don't worry I didn't expect you to rush right over there... I just don't feel like retyping the list right now.

I think I said this before but when it comes time, feel free to PM me about the EU if you need to. Maybe I will get some time to do an install & setup write-up soon too.

 

Jime posted the start to a EU install writeup with some diagrams for a 4G incase you haven't found them.

He's also dyno tuned, so you might see if he's willing to help you out with some base maps and bumping the rev-limiter.

 

Here's part of it...

 

Here's Hals:

 

Thanks, Icey. You always got me the technical stuff. I'm glad you're doing this...

 

Question: Will EU give me any CEL issues? I need to know that because my inspection will be due towards the end of the year. I need to be able to get the CEL's out so I can get the inspections passed. Cops down here are ****'s about inspection stickers.

-Peter-