Looking into what mods I can look into going forward to get this car going faster.

So Far my list completed is as follows:
-CAI (Injen w/ extra elbow pushing the filter away from the rad)
-Y/B pipe w/ hi-flo cat
-Maxx tunning VB Mod

I'm looking basically into bolt on, not internal engine mods.

Is upgrading injectors an good choice? If so can I use one from a high output Nissan motor such as a 300zx?

SAFCII - Would that be recommended if I went with an advanced timing of 17degress?

What other options can I look into?

Thanks.

 

Donate...
get rid of this, even in a modifed state, it's not better than a PR style CAI.


Get serious and get headers, even if you have the 3.0L...

Read this, http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=434821

If it confuses you, read it again...

370's might be a tad too big re: the link I posted.

What's the ? here? A SAFC or anything similar is definitely a must. 17* base advance couldn't hurt either.

Next, get a wb02 sensor.



This member can help you...a lot...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=256938

 

Great feedback, thanks for the links. Those will aid me in a few hours.

I have a knock off Injen, what I can do is take it apart and form it into a Frankencar style and see how that goes. Thanks for the information, exactly what I was looking for!!!

 

Buy a PR knock-off on eBay. No short ram or modified Injen is going to do as well. They don't cost much, so why not just pick one up?

 

forget the injectors....unless ur boosted they are kinda of too much..but u could use 3.5 injectors...i think they are larger and u may have to modify injector harness....Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and an S-AFC will get u ur timing bumps...i am sure those are the link NmexMax posted...he be smart...some headers....and i fu want to ger hard core on tuning Emanage Ultimate instead of an SAFC

 

He's got a DEk, no VI needed. Add some Fp w/ an AFPR...

 

yea i edited that after i remembered he has a de-k silly

 

My first mod once I get my V-AFC

 

Ninja style...

 

5-speed swap > all bolt-ons for an auto. It will also make every new mod you add make more of a difference.


If you're thinking about an SAFC-II, get a VAFC-II unless you actually need two different tunes. The VAFC-II will give you twice as many tuning points.

 

[QUOTE=d00df00d]5-speed swap > all bolt-ons for an auto. It will also make every new mod you add make more of a difference.


Do you, or anyone else, know of anybody who does the 5-speed swap in CT? The only place I know of is MaxTuning, but theyre pretty far. Im dying to get rid of this slush-box!

 

[QUOTE=clborden]Why don't you do Jime's DR-mod and Shift_Fast tranny mods (external), change out the torque converter (internal), and install nitrous? Works for me....

And it's all civilized to drive on the street - or highway...

 

Shift as fast as you want. You're still dealing with taller gears and 33% more drivetrain loss...

An automatic is like a condom. A really good automatic is like a ribbed condom. Either way, it's still not the real thing.

 

A32 5MT yeilds

11% more whp and 9% more torque.

 

I guess it's a good thing Jime's still using the 4th gen automatic, too. He might be even faster, eh?

I know 13.4s are slow for a complete street car, but hey, I'm trying hard.... And I don't miss gears while shifting. Have you ever done that? Or broken a tranny? Or burnt a clutch?

And you do know what guys do with condoms, right ?? I've never heard that comparison, but i'm glad I'm wearing an "automatic" while sticking it to M/Ts at the track.... Heh....

Ok - I'll quit - it's an age-old argument, and we have our own opinions, but that was fun...

 

Pop Charger Intake=inhale
Greddy EU=optimize
Headers=exhale

with these 3, I'd think you're done for good.

 

[QUOTE=grey99max] Low 13's are impressive w/ a 75hp kit. -What do you think it'll run w/o nitrous? If the differance between a modded auto and a 5speed is not that big, then maybe I'll just do that. I'd rather use the other 900 on a set of Cattman's.

 

Are you talking about a modded auto vs. a stock 5-speed? If you are, sure, there might not be that much difference.

But if you're comparing a modded auto to a modded 5-speed, there is a big difference -- and the heavier the mods, the bigger the difference. The 5-speed is faster to begin with, and it gains more speed with each mod.

 

[QUOTE=clborden]It's an age-old argument - and by the way I use two nitrous stages-usually 50-shot+75-shot - and I don't run w/o nitrous, because I don't care about NA times, I'm working on nitrous times and I don't have much time to test-n-tune.

But the car sure shifts well when on the street. Imagine holding the brake, running the engine to 2800, launching and flooring it then revving to 6500 to bang into 2nd, then revving to 6500 and banging into 3rd gear. ( and into 4th if needed). You will need better tires - guaranteed.... and "banging" is what happens - lots of tire screeching.... Then you flip a couple of switches and you're back to normal..


Modded autos are like modded clutches - they both can work much better than stock.

With Cattmann headers, a tricked automatic, an EDGE TC, good DRs and some serious spray, well I'd hate to go against you at the strip - but I keep a few secrets for when times get tough..

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'm anxious to get going on this, but I'm just trying to take my time and do it right the first time.

 

It really depends on where you want to put your money...

$0, just drive the car and accpet the truth, it's a decent 4-door sedan.

$1k, you can hit it squared with Nitrous like grey99 said. Very cost effective and pretty reliable to get that extra umph. But it's only momentary.

$2k, you can get some of the most effective N/A mods like I mentioned. Simply intake, EU tune, Headers, and a few other things will bring you the mild and reliable power delivery at all times.

$3k, you're a low boost supercharger and maintain a pretty wild driving experience at all times, but the durability of your motor is significantly dependant on your aggressiveness in your driving style.

about 4k, you can hit a high boost supercharger and get a wild beast, but how long will your motor stay healthy? It's very debatable.

5k+, you can customize your forced induction (high boost turbo) to the limits of our 3.0's or beyond.

6k+, you can walk my route, customize a 3.5L motor swap and add in every single N/A mod possible for that motor. It's all N/A right now, but it's not that cost effective. I canot beat a forced induction maxima for the money I spent.

So, which one are you?

 

GodFather,

Well said. That's a realistic summary of your choices when modding, all right...

For what's its worth, I thought along those guidelines and decided to create a quick Max for the strip only. I don't street-race (anymore) so I can push various limits for my quickest quarter-mile results... but a lot more than $1K invested - closer to $8K, since I have all high-performance pieces in place for your other options except full headers and motor mods.. and I have learned a bunch. And the car is completely stock body and interior - no weight reductions - a personal goal for me.


I want the extra power of a 3.5 and hotshot headers to lay groundwork for a quicker spraying quarter-miler. That's for the winter. A new category!

Gosh, this is fun...

 

I think Godfather's post is a summary of what you can do and expect to pay. You have already done a good thing by doing the VB upgrade. Now if you havent already, install a transmission cooler asap. and also put Mobile 1 ATF in there as well. Also, you can look it up on here about fixing or checking your VIAS cup if you havent done so already. it is very common for that to become loose or even brake off, if u dont kno, this is what controls or allows to open and close the valves(or w/e its called) in your intake manifold. Read on it and put JBweld on it even if its not broken, it will eventually brake if u dont do it.

Another thing, it is sometimes common that on you 5thgen maxima the Coils go bad. so maybe start saving up for those or at least be prepared or change them before they go bad. the MAF is also another common failure in your car.

You can always look at suspension mods like rear sway bar, iv heard its a must for 5th gens (depending on the springs they already have ofcourse).

and something i think you should think about is, what exacly is your plan with your car? How much power are you thinking of putting down? Do you want to have an autox suspension, or do you want to have a drag racing setup, etc....

 

Thanks Grey99 and streetz, my estimates are rough, and they can be done in different combo's like you guys just said. I've done the all out N/A mods on a 3.0, and now N/A mods on a 3.5; seriously though, I would have started off with a blower if I'd known about all the money I was gong to waste and dump into my N/A setups. till this point, plus the price of the car itself, I've spent about $20k in these 2 years. It's a pretty bad investment if you ask me. I could have just started off with a $3k supercharger on a 3.0 and close my accounts for its price effectiveness. Seriously, I can't complain if I can save the money I've wasted. That's a big sum.

So, TDot, if you are planning to go for power, I'd just save up once and go on the supercharger route. I wouldn't mind Nitrous, but I dont' like to depend on bottles. So everyone's right here. Target at 1 goal and stick with it, and do it right from the first. Power mods are expensive, you have to choose wisely.

 

Well I'm adding the SAFC-II and AFPR next spring (winter is coming ) I will see from there. I honestly think I'll be happy with that for now as I still need the rest of my kit.

Also I am dumping the Injen style CAI and going short arm for the winter (obviously) and PR style in the spring. I'll see how things go from there. But thanks for the input.

 

Thanx for the input fellas!

 

One more question on the automatic issue. Is it possible to get my tranny to shift closer to redline on its own? (WOT of course) Or is my only option shifting it manually?

 

At this point, there is no way to extend shift points for us. There's all sorts of ways to control it manually, but you can't get the auto to shift higher by itself, not even with a TCM reprogramming.

 

Actually you can, mine now shifts at 7000 RPM automatically although an Emanage Ultimate is required to raise the rev limiter to shift that high.

This thread explains how to raise the shift point. You can also start in any gear and hold in any gear, great for the dyno.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=482345

 

Jime, have you made runs to compare the stock shiftpoint vs. 7000rpm shiftpoint? if you did how much time did you shave off with 7k?

 

Yes, approx .3-.4 seconds.

 

I second that ... my latest version of Jime's Shift_Fast is now MSD 8969-controlled for all shifts. With a stock ECU, the last time out I had it programmed to shift at 6300 for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It works very well. Very well.

I made mine strictly from Radio Shack parts, so others can make their own - I just need to publish the specs and a schematic.

Ran out of time to try higher shift points, but I'll be back for more.

 

I often forget about what you've accomplished. I meant more by conventional methods, but point taken and thanks for reminding me!

I'm getting more interested in your setup now, since I'm now 00VI equipped and will likely have a JWT ECU in the next few months.

 

Man, who would thought. I removed the Injen for a short arm and what a huge difference. Car pulls a lot stronger. I'm loving the VB mod even more. Can the drop resistor mod accompany the VB? I am not gonna go through the hassle of a tranny swap. Car is running amazing now and loving the power. Next spring the SAFC-II and AFPR will go in and will see what the dyno says when I tune it.

 

I asked the same question if the drop resistor can accompany the VB upgrade. but if your n/a and already have VB mod just stay with that. you said its running great so dont do drop resistor. You must be having a blast with the car in the city. no 2-3**** lags i bet. wish i had vb. but i like my drop resistor even more

 

Also JWT does make an TCU upgrade that shifts at a higher RPM, but like the rest of their ECU mods it not adjustable like mine.

 

For the price, i strongly suggest an EU instead of JWT ECU. you have way more option with EU.

 

I have to re-do this mistake I made also (Injen). I was taking my time because I didnt think it would be that much of a differance, but if it is as dramatic as you say, then I'll do it now. Which one did you do? I'm asking because we have very simular set ups. This is probably, no definately, is not the forum for this stupid question, but we are sort of on the topic already

 

I actually had a replica Injen so it was a couple pieces. I was able to re-creat it to form an intake similar to Berk/Frankencar without spending extra. If you have the actual Injen it may not be as easy unless you cut it.

Believe me it made a huge difference on my low end power, it was like a new car again. You don't realize how much the Injen kills your low end until you remove it. I'll try to grab a pick of my setup some this week/weekend and send it you.

 

ive had my injen on my car for yrs and have never had an issue with it