Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I havnt found one for cheap tho. I dont have the money now...maybe I would later but I dont want to spend over $300 for just the V-AFC 2 (which is better than the S I believe). If I can't find one of them for cheap then I might have to go 4th lower so I'm not running rich.

Apexi V-AFC 2 runs $235 on ebay. Not sure if I could find cheaper than that. The Apexi and the MSD wouldnt have problems running together?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Which "Apexi"? The V or S? The V would just require that you not hook up it's wire for the VIAS (or technically it's VTEC wire). With the S, there should be no issue at all.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok. Well 335 for both switches is a lot. I dont know if I want to spend that much just on the electronics. That'll make it $500-$600 dollars for the swap. Idk if I can dish that much out. Wonder if anyone sells the apexi in the classifieds

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

If you go with the 5th gen lower, the ECU will adjust fine in closed loop, which means the car should run fine for most driving conditions. Even at WOT, it will drive normally also, but you will likely be slightly richer than necessary, meaning you won't be getting max power out of the setup. So all in all, 5th gen lower without tune = same driveability, just less power under WOT than you could have. (It will still feel like a huge improvement up top though over the USIM)


My comments about the rear brackets not being needed were based on keeping the EGR, so if you're not then yeah I'd probably be putting at least one bracket back there.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

So I'd still be getting good gains everywhere correct? Just not the full potential until I put in a v-afc 2? Also...what is the full extent of running rich? Am I just wasting gas basically?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Manifold is off I ended up just using some deep sockets and a breaker bar and forcing some things out of the way a little. Didn't need to use any fancy tricks

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Alright, I'm a little hung up again. At this point, the manifold is off as well as my rear valve cover. I had always assumed the rear valve cover bolts were the same, I was wrong. Not sure why that was never mentioned anywhere. No biggy, buy new bolts.

My real problem: EGR. It seems like nothing but a tangled mess when I look at it. Tons of lines, canisters, etc. I was planning on making a plate to cover the flange that normally attaches to the 4th gen manifold BUT...it sits too high and the 00VI will not sit down properly because of it. What can I do? I was hoping not to have to remove the entire EGR system, especially because it's *seemingly* so complicated. What can I do minimally just to get that particular chunk of it out of my way? Where does it go, what does it attach to, etc.

The piece I'm referring to is that rusted brown looking port near the valve cover in the upper right hand part of the pic in my last post.

For example, could I simply block off the circled port in the picture and call it a day as far as eliminating the EGR from getting to my manifold (and let the temperature sensor dangle somewhere)? Would the backpressure hurt anything?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Can't pull it off as a whole?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Can't pull what off as a whole?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I looked at that picture and thought I saw that the whole thing could come off together so you dont have to undo the entire mess. How's it coming btw?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I'm having my "plate making guy" come over today and make me a plate to basically eliminate the EGR guide tube and leave everything else.

At the moment, the rear valve cover is waiting on it's new bolts (nothing is open today that has them). Tonight I'm swapping lower intake manifolds, then as soon as I get the EGR problem taken care of (hopefully tommorrow) the upper manifold will go on as well. The coil pack issue, though, not sure. That may be what stalls me longer than tommorrow. At the moment it looks like the 4th gen rear coils will work fine as long as I find some way to seal the empty space in the hole (to keep something from falling in) and get everything modified/aligned properly (new bolt hole, and drilling some of the rear mounting tab off).

I've only put really, like, 4 to 5 hours into this so far, and I'm roughly 1/2 done. I'd say that's not too bad considering I'm doing this mostly myself and have no REAL, gritty experience working on cars.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Sounds good. Anyway the plate guy could fab something to fill those holes? Maybe a sheet of some sort to put across? And keep me posted. If things go well for you I think I'm going to go with the 4th lower route.

I never asked, but is there a difference with performance using the 4th or 5th LIM? Same gains or what? I dont think I've read that anywhere.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

He'll be making me a tiny little plate to cover the hole on the EGR valve that the guide tube would normally bolt to.

There will be no difference in performance as long as we're comparing Fed spec to Fed spec (i.e. no swirl valves).

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok. Well it looks like I can get a 4th LIM for $30 from a guy in agawuam so I'll probably go that route since its cheaper. Just gotta send it out to Stephen Max. How much was the shipping for that Pat?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I'm not really sure. I paid like $30 shipped for mine from TomV and he shipped it to Stephen Max for me. Then it was $40 shipped for Stephen to modify it and ship it back to me.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

$40?! He said $75 for me....gonna have to talk to him

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

Tatanko, you must not have read my writeup? You don't need new valve cover bolts, you just need to add a washer to make up the 1/16" difference in cover thickness. You should be able to go down to your local hardware store with one of your bolts and find a washer that fits over the spacer part and flush against the bolt head. I had to make a late night trip to my local 24 hour store and could only find SAE washers, so I had to file the inside out a little for it to fit. If your local supplier has metric washers, you should be golden. If you want to buy new bolts, I'll leave that up to you. I opted for the $1.59 fix with washers.

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

About the 5th gen EGR guide tube, call Dave B at Southpoint Nissan if you're looking for the best price. He should have one in stock and be able to ship to you quickly. Otherwise, you may have to buck up and pay the $30 they cost at the local stealership. I'm going to guess that a used one is not going to be had quickly.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the advice, Todd. Odd you should mention the write-up. After having read it through the first time on my computer, I printed it out and haven't looked at it since I simply haven't needed it. I have that much knowledge about all this in my head haha.

As far as the valve cover bolts, I was talking to Luke (gtr_rider) last night and he reccomended I simply swap those little "caps" and that did the trick. Everything is bolted in fine now, no new bolts required.

I already ordered an EGR tube through my local dealer, but it won't be there til weds. and I won't have time to install it til thursday at the earliest. I may install the manifold without it (I have a block-off plate on the manifold currently) and start the car up and atleast see how well it runs (idles) and see if I have any vacuum leaks from the seals on the manifolds and things like that. Then unbolt the manifold later when I get the tube and put it in. I won't blow up the car with the EGR valve venting into the engine bay for a short time will I?

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

If you don't need the car until Thursday, I'd just wait and save yourself the added time of pulling stuff back apart to put in the EGR guide tube. You could still get to it after install, but would be more of a pain. I'm glad you didn't need the writeup.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I need the car ASAP. It's becoming a headache borrowing my parents' cars and getting rides everywhere

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Todd where is your writeup?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

On his computer, unfinished.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Oh ok so you didnt actually read it. I get the joke now haha. Any chance that writeup will be put out. Like to keep track of all these little things you guys are talking about.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Hey I was just wanted to ask about the PCV valve. I was looking at Pat's site again and looking at the hose section. I noticed that I think krismax removed and filed the hole where the PCV valve was (#3). I would like to use the PCV valve since it's needed for emissions and helps reduce moisture in the manifold.

1. #2 is usually not used in the swap so can I use the #2 nipple for the PCV or no?
2. If I can't use #2 can I drill a new hole somewhere on the manifold?



Thanks

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

The number two nipple is actually VERY tiny. It would not be large enough for the PCV. Thanks to being Cali emissions (something I found out about my car during this swap) I have extra vacuum lines that require me to use that nipple, anyway. Are you Cali or Fed? If Cali, you may end up using it as well.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I've always been under the impression that I have fed. Maybe I should check that haha. How should I check if I've never realized it?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Look up either in the 4th gen FAQ or the FAQ on my site how to check your VIN. It's listed as part of your VIN #.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ha no I feel like a dumba$$. So if I need to use that #2 can I drill another hole to the left of that for the PCV Valve?

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

#3 is for the PCV.

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

The writeup is nearly complete, minus a few details here and there. Keep in mind that I pulled it totally from memory after the swap was complete. I'm starting a new job in a couple weeks and I have been devoting my time to work.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Yes I know #3 is PCV valve. I do not have that. Krismax filled it off and filled the hole. I need to know if I can you #2 or drill a new hole of the left side of #2. Will either one of those work? I'll check my VIN on thursday to see if I need #2. I believe my car is FED so I should have that clear.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yes, you can drill a hole. Do not drill it any bigger than necessary to fit the nipple, though.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok how deep should the hole be and what size nipple is it for the PCV valve?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Nipple should be 3/8". How deep? Ummm, all the way through

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

No I just wasnt sure. I didnt want to drill too far down and mess up the inside of the manifold ya know?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Just drill through the top and don't go clear through the empty space to the bottom and you'll be fine

Oh, and, my swap is done now, yay:

toddemullins

iTrader: (10)

Done? You're not going to leave that IACV sitting there are you? I know what you mean. Did it fire yet? How's your idle?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Yeah how did it work out? Everything running ok? I'll have to talk to you about the hoses and everything soon! I'm gonna worry about drilling later. If I'm fed I dont need to drill anyway. I can use the #2 for the PCV valve. How easy is it to swap the nipples?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

It's not 100% done, no. I still need to add some hoses, fix a tiny vacuum leak (one of my own making on a T-fitting I used), install either my EGR guide tube or block-off plate on the EGR valve, make a bracket to hold down the throttle cables better, and possibly relocate the IACV.

The IACV does not NEED relocated, though. I pushed it down a tiny bit and it actually clears the hood, believe it or not. The hose gets a little squished, but the engine doesn't seem to mind

The car starts and idles perfect, just like stock. Actually it idles better, since I had a small vacuum leak due to a PCV valve hose being cracked previously. It also runs like a champ!