WHY is this not a sticky!?!
#1
WHY is this not a sticky!?!
hey guys.. with all the ppl trying to do the 00VI swap nowadays.. why dont we have all the info from ceasar's website and all the info from tatanko's website in a sticky..
im sure you all are getting tired of all the new threads about this.. as much as i am getting tired of trying to search all the different websites for info.. this is a complicated swap.. especially with all the different ways you can do this swap...
also.. off topic of making the sticky.. if you are using the 4th gen lower IM and using the 00VI Upper IM "NO ONE" has stated that you need the flip flop the lower 4th gen IM so the runners will line-up with the VI Upper.. The only way that i realized this (after i had the whole thing apart) was by the pics on stephen max's website and also the pics on ceasar's website.. and let me tell you it was NOT fun putting all that stuff back together and not being able to do the swap.. this is why i think there needs to be a sticky with all the info on it..
just my .02
thanks guys..
-Jason
im sure you all are getting tired of all the new threads about this.. as much as i am getting tired of trying to search all the different websites for info.. this is a complicated swap.. especially with all the different ways you can do this swap...
also.. off topic of making the sticky.. if you are using the 4th gen lower IM and using the 00VI Upper IM "NO ONE" has stated that you need the flip flop the lower 4th gen IM so the runners will line-up with the VI Upper.. The only way that i realized this (after i had the whole thing apart) was by the pics on stephen max's website and also the pics on ceasar's website.. and let me tell you it was NOT fun putting all that stuff back together and not being able to do the swap.. this is why i think there needs to be a sticky with all the info on it..
just my .02
thanks guys..
-Jason
#2
There is a 00VI on 4th gen in the sticky labeled 'Links with useful information'. I'm sure you knew that though.
Why don't you take it upon yourself to gather that info and put it in a thread...
Why don't you take it upon yourself to gather that info and put it in a thread...
#3
yes i have seen this.. but the info on that sticky are just links to threads where ppl are talking about their swaps.. which is great.. but i think the info off of tatanko's and ceasars website should be added as a link or added to the sticky..
#4
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
......this is a complicated swap.. especially with all the different ways you can do this swap.......... if you are using the 4th gen lower IM and using the 00VI Upper IM "NO ONE" has stated that you need the flip flop the lower 4th gen IM so the runners will line-up with the VI Upper.. The only way that i realized this (after i had the whole thing apart) was by the pics on stephen max's website and also the pics on ceasar's website.. and let me tell you it was NOT fun putting all that stuff back together and not being able to do the swap.. -Jason
That info about swapping ends on the 4th gen LIM is out there - you just have to look for it (I believe it was StephenMax who first made a point of it in telling how he did it). I found it before doing mine! And FYI, even then the ports will not be exactly matched. Some are off by as much as almost 1/8". Why weren't you looking at StevenMax's and Ceasar's submissions before tearing things apart???
Many guys are too used to being spoon fed by others and not willing to do the "hard work" of thoroughly researching the 00VI swap for themselves. Lots of choices and decisions to make before you even start spending money on whatever componetry you end up deciding upon. And if you aren't willing to do the hard work of researching the project and making those decisions before grabbing the wrenches and pulling things apart, chances are pretty good that you'll be coming back to the org asking for help figuring out why your swap isn't working right.
I might sound harsh, but if you had seen and paid attention to this kind of advice before you started (and I've given it before),..........
As I've also submitted B4, "Some guys learn by reading, others learn by observing, and still there are some who just have to pi$$ on the electrified cattle fence to find out for themselves."
#5
trust me i spent plenty of time researching this project.. i understand that this is a hard project and it should be researched (which i did).. but its hard to justify saying that i havent done the research when there are so many ways to do this and that all this info is spread out amongst so many threads and so many ppls seperate websites.. you would figure with this complicated of a swap someone would have put all this info all together on a sticky or something.. the best i have found is tatankos website.. which is currently down for some reason.. but when no one states in words (or so i havent found) that you will have to do a 180 with the 4th gen lower then yes i was a little upset to tear my car apart and have to put it back together because of false/untouched info... all im saying is i think its time to put all the info together since this is becoming a popular mod.. because to me the hard work of this project is the labor.. when i see on two or three different threads or websites that there is nothing with fitment issues or that you have to flip the lower then no i dont worry about it anymore.. so no i dont understand where you can say i havent done the "hard work." oh and there is only so much you can learn by reading.. before you have to observe.. like me..
#6
Originally Posted by Curt
And FYI, even then the ports will not be exactly matched. Some are off by as much as almost 1/8". "
#7
the photo gallery i put together is not really mine as i just went through lots of post putting all the photos in a gallery. anyone who wants to take on a more specific project can use any of those photos as you see fit.
peace
peace
#8
Port Matching
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
so tell me this.. if there is still an 1/8th of an inch (give or take) of unmatched port.. where would it be at? the front or the back.. considering you have already done a 180 with the lower..
I'll try to email you all of the bookmarks I saved after many hours of searching and reading threads (which, believe me, took lots of time with only dial up!).
#9
BTW, try this thread for the info you missed on flipping the 4th gen LIM around:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=405362
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=405362
#11
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
thanks.. did you use the 4th gen iacv?? or the 5th gen.. if you used 5th gen did you run a code..
#12
Also, since most of the weight of the UIM is cantilevered out over the rear cylinder bank, there's a lot of stress on the bolts holding the upper to the lower IM (especially the front ones). Some of the 5th gen guys have even had problems with the threads in the LIM stripping out (I found that out by searching the 5th gen forum while looking for info on the VIAS cup problem). What exacerbates this situation is that the number of bolt threads actually engaged in the aluminum LIM is probably not more than 4 or 5 (IIRC), all the more reason to make sure you don't overtorque them. The back side of the 00VI UIM on the 5th gen is actually supported by 2 brackets attached to the rear bank head, as well as the EGR tube. I'd suggest that anyone doing the 00VI swap use them as well. Making proper use of all of these should (hopefully) minimize the chances that threads will strip in the LIM on your 00VI swap.
Most of the foregoing will also apply to the guys who are using the 5th gen LIM.
Most of the foregoing will also apply to the guys who are using the 5th gen LIM.
#13
Originally Posted by Curt
Also, since most of the weight of the UIM is cantilevered out over the rear cylinder bank, there's a lot of stress on the bolts holding the upper to the lower IM (especially the front ones). Some of the 5th gen guys have even had problems with the threads in the LIM stripping out (I found that out by searching the 5th gen forum while looking for info on the VIAS cup problem). What exacerbates this situation is that the number of bolt threads actually engaged in the aluminum LIM is probably not more than 4 or 5 (IIRC), all the more reason to make sure you don't overtorque them. The back side of the 00VI UIM on the 5th gen is actually supported by 2 brackets attached to the rear bank head, as well as the EGR tube. I'd suggest that anyone doing the 00VI swap use them as well. Making proper use of all of these should (hopefully) minimize the chances that threads will strip in the LIM on your 00VI swap.
Most of the foregoing will also apply to the guys who are using the 5th gen LIM.
Most of the foregoing will also apply to the guys who are using the 5th gen LIM.
To solve the bolt problem just don't use the Nissan bolts. I went to a fastener place and got longer-than-necessary ones, measured everything up and then cut them to length. There's a lot of thread room in the LIM to play with; I suggest using it. Doing that plus the 2 bolts for the EGR at the back you won't need to use the rear brackets, which are just excess weight.
#14
good info guys.. i appreciate you all lending your knowledge on my swap.. hey curt.. i think between the two of us we can put together enough info about this swap to add to the stickies.. thats if you have the time.. because i would hate for anyone to go through what i did..
#16
I too am doing the 00vi swap, one question, I am using the 4th gen lim, when I sit the 00vi on top of it the back half of the vi sits off the manifold just slightly... Its not touching anything anymore in regaurds to the rear valve cover or anyhting behind that, my guess is its just the design but I just wondered it anybody else had the same issue as I.
#17
Originally Posted by glenmoormax
I too am doing the 00vi swap, one question, I am using the 4th gen lim, when I sit the 00vi on top of it the back half of the vi sits off the manifold just slightly... Its not touching anything anymore in regaurds to the rear valve cover or anyhting behind that, my guess is its just the design but I just wondered it anybody else had the same issue as I.
just wondering if you happened to read any of the post in this thread before you posted? that question was answered.
i am helping jason do the swap. it's been a fun project to this point. when we get everything else we need, i'll make sure to take a lot of pics of everthing that we do so that we might have a good write for the route we are going to do the swap. thanks to everyone for their help with this.
#18
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
dandymax.. is there anyway (if i send you some money) that you could get me some bolts like you used.. since i dont have those brackets like curt was talking about..
#19
Originally Posted by xlcrew
just wondering if you happened to read any of the post in this thread before you posted? that question was answered.
i am helping jason do the swap. it's been a fun project to this point. when we get everything else we need, i'll make sure to take a lot of pics of everthing that we do so that we might have a good write for the route we are going to do the swap. thanks to everyone for their help with this.
i am helping jason do the swap. it's been a fun project to this point. when we get everything else we need, i'll make sure to take a lot of pics of everthing that we do so that we might have a good write for the route we are going to do the swap. thanks to everyone for their help with this.
Yes I read, but I asked my own question to help me understand it more clearly I guess. I think my motor is toast. I also found out with jcy98's help that my wet nitrous system hasn't been spraying my additional fuel for my 125 shot all summer, DOH! My bad but no wonder it felt so fast.
#21
Originally Posted by 97Maximus
the best i have found is tatankos website.. which is currently down for some reason..
Oh and thanks, btw
#23
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
I agree that tatanko's site is the best that I've found. Only thing I didnt see was wiring up 2000 injectors. I know they have to be rewired but I can't find anything about that.
#24
What's the need for knowing power/ground for the VIAS? and I'm doing a full swap I believe so I'm hoping krismax will be explaining the wiring of new injectors to me. Hopefully I can get some pics or such for your site.
#25
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
What's the need for knowing power/ground for the VIAS? and I'm doing a full swap I believe so I'm hoping krismax will be explaining the wiring of new injectors to me. Hopefully I can get some pics or such for your site.
#27
Quick answers (and just my 2¢):
1. On the injector re-wire, from the 4th gen FSM it looks like all of the injectors have red (hot) wires to them, and each a different color wire from the (presumably to the ECU - I only spent a second looking). I's assume that the 5th gen is similar. Under that assumption, for each injector solder the reds together and then the other 2 wires together (irrespective of color mis-match).
2. For Cdg2125, if you only turn it 160° you're going to have real problem. Try 180°, it might go easier. And yes, fuel rail and injectors stay the same.
3. For wiring up the VIAS solenoid, I don't recall that I paid any attention to that when I did mine. Maybe I just got lucky. However, one way to find out (and I presume that before worrying about wiring up the VIAS you've done everything else, gotten things buttoned up, fired up the engine and made sure everything is working as it should) is with the engine running and a pair of (roughly) 3 foot wires from the VIAS plug, try one on the + battery terminal and then the other on the neg. If that activates the VIAS, bingo. You have your answer. If not, try them the other way. If no, then you've got some other problem. And for all I know it may be designed so it can work either way.
Again, just my 2¢.
1. On the injector re-wire, from the 4th gen FSM it looks like all of the injectors have red (hot) wires to them, and each a different color wire from the (presumably to the ECU - I only spent a second looking). I's assume that the 5th gen is similar. Under that assumption, for each injector solder the reds together and then the other 2 wires together (irrespective of color mis-match).
2. For Cdg2125, if you only turn it 160° you're going to have real problem. Try 180°, it might go easier. And yes, fuel rail and injectors stay the same.
3. For wiring up the VIAS solenoid, I don't recall that I paid any attention to that when I did mine. Maybe I just got lucky. However, one way to find out (and I presume that before worrying about wiring up the VIAS you've done everything else, gotten things buttoned up, fired up the engine and made sure everything is working as it should) is with the engine running and a pair of (roughly) 3 foot wires from the VIAS plug, try one on the + battery terminal and then the other on the neg. If that activates the VIAS, bingo. You have your answer. If not, try them the other way. If no, then you've got some other problem. And for all I know it may be designed so it can work either way.
Again, just my 2¢.
#28
Originally Posted by Curt
Quick answers (and just my 2¢):2. For Cdg2125, if you only turn it 160° you're going to have real problem. Try 180°, it might go easier. And yes, fuel rail and injectors stay the same.
#29
As I've said a time or two before, "Some guys feel compelled to talk when don't have anything to say." And it can become more that a royal PITA when you depend upon what they've said and it's dead wrong.
4th gen fuel rail installed in its original configuration - for sure!
4th gen fuel rail installed in its original configuration - for sure!
#30
Originally Posted by DandyMax
To solve the bolt problem just don't use the Nissan bolts. I went to a fastener place and got longer-than-necessary ones, measured everything up and then cut them to length. There's a lot of thread room in the LIM to play with; I suggest using it. Doing that plus the 2 bolts for the EGR at the back you won't need to use the rear brackets, which are just excess weight.
#31
Originally Posted by Curt
4th gen fuel rail installed in its original configuration - for sure!
Originally Posted by Curt
I believe that the 4th gen USIM bracket will also work on the passenger side of the 00VI UIM
#32
Originally Posted by Tatanko
....... Do you happen to know what kind of work is necessary to make it work with the 00VI?
#33
Originally Posted by Curt
It ought to bolt right up the same as on the USIM. You'll find out about it when you have to squeeze your knuckles back between the UIM and the firewall.
#34
Crap....I just bought these from the nissan dealership because I thought that you needed the 00vi brackets, and the 4th gen would not work the the new upper. guess i thought wrong....but at least they only cost 20 for both.
#35
Originally Posted by Tatanko
Always adding to it. Please let me know if you find it, I'd love to add it. Another thing brought up in another thread I don't have: which wires on the VIAS are power/ground (as in which is which). I honestly don't even know myself haha.
#36
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
tatanko, use those photos in the photo gallery and just put them on your website. unless you would rather have the link to the gallery. just whatever you want to do
#37
While on the subject of the 00VI, some more thoughts:
I think anyone doing this mod who doesn't first do a complete tear-down, inspection, clean-out and preventative maintenance of the UIM is a little short sighted. If nothing else, the cup on the VIAS shaft that actuates the power valve is prone to failure, and the only viable fix I've seen on the org is referred to as the JB Weld fix. Last year when I sourced and resold half-a-dozen 00VI setups, most of them were exhibiting no problem at all with the cup, but I did the JB Weld fix anyway just as a preventative measure. Also, the "problem" phillips-head machine screws on the VIAS as well as the other end of the power valve were replaced with hex-head bolts to make any down-the-road maintenance a whole lot easier getting them out.
One of these UIM's had such an extreme carbon buildup (from the EGR) that the power valve was binding. All of them had some. Wouldn't you rather start life with an 00VI in as-new condition? You can skip these things, but it's a whole lot easier taking care of them before you install the UIM, than having to take your car off the road later on and removing it fix a problem.
One of the first things I'd did with a newly-arrived 00VI was to stick a vacuum hose onto the VIAS solenoid nipple and suck on it. This would confirm if the vacuum actuator itelf was functioning properly. And they all were. Upon my initial acquaintence with the 00VI in doing my own installation, I had assumed that a vacuum source needed to be provided to that VIAS solenoid nipple, thinking that the solenoid, upon actuation by an electrical signal, allowed that vacuum to pass to the actuator (the round, plastic piece on the VIAS that has the actuator rod coming from it). So as soon as I fired up (at idle) the VIAS actuated the power valve even though it hadn't received any electrical signal. After struggling with this mystery, taking the VIAS apart, losing an "O"-ring from the solenoid and then looking in several hardware stores before finding one that would fit, with help of guys on the org I finally figured out how the system was designed to work (i.e., an internal vacuum reservoir and the solenoid nipple vented to atmosphere).
So, you guys putting together a how-to might want to consider adding these suggestions. Oh, and if you haven't included them (and I don't recall where I got them or if they're still out there somewhere), I've saved 5 or 6 photos of the steps in disassembling the VIAS and pulling out the solenoids. If you want them, give me an email address and I'll send them to you.
I think anyone doing this mod who doesn't first do a complete tear-down, inspection, clean-out and preventative maintenance of the UIM is a little short sighted. If nothing else, the cup on the VIAS shaft that actuates the power valve is prone to failure, and the only viable fix I've seen on the org is referred to as the JB Weld fix. Last year when I sourced and resold half-a-dozen 00VI setups, most of them were exhibiting no problem at all with the cup, but I did the JB Weld fix anyway just as a preventative measure. Also, the "problem" phillips-head machine screws on the VIAS as well as the other end of the power valve were replaced with hex-head bolts to make any down-the-road maintenance a whole lot easier getting them out.
One of these UIM's had such an extreme carbon buildup (from the EGR) that the power valve was binding. All of them had some. Wouldn't you rather start life with an 00VI in as-new condition? You can skip these things, but it's a whole lot easier taking care of them before you install the UIM, than having to take your car off the road later on and removing it fix a problem.
One of the first things I'd did with a newly-arrived 00VI was to stick a vacuum hose onto the VIAS solenoid nipple and suck on it. This would confirm if the vacuum actuator itelf was functioning properly. And they all were. Upon my initial acquaintence with the 00VI in doing my own installation, I had assumed that a vacuum source needed to be provided to that VIAS solenoid nipple, thinking that the solenoid, upon actuation by an electrical signal, allowed that vacuum to pass to the actuator (the round, plastic piece on the VIAS that has the actuator rod coming from it). So as soon as I fired up (at idle) the VIAS actuated the power valve even though it hadn't received any electrical signal. After struggling with this mystery, taking the VIAS apart, losing an "O"-ring from the solenoid and then looking in several hardware stores before finding one that would fit, with help of guys on the org I finally figured out how the system was designed to work (i.e., an internal vacuum reservoir and the solenoid nipple vented to atmosphere).
So, you guys putting together a how-to might want to consider adding these suggestions. Oh, and if you haven't included them (and I don't recall where I got them or if they're still out there somewhere), I've saved 5 or 6 photos of the steps in disassembling the VIAS and pulling out the solenoids. If you want them, give me an email address and I'll send them to you.
#38
Hey Curt, I'm getting my UIM from krismax tomorrow. Since it will take me awhile to get the other parts you suggest cleaning the UIM? What kind of vacuum hose did you use on the nipple? I'm going to make sure and do the VIAS fix before I install things as well. I want to make sure not to lose any of those rings so I'd love to get those pics from you.
#39
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
What kind of vacuum hose did you use on thenipple?
Which reminds me, I ought to get some hose for that thing so I can attach it to the intake somewhere...
Curt, I would also like those pictures. You can send them to pmitchell1@gmail.com. If you don't mind, I'd like to use some of your suggestions on my website in a seperete maintenance section. May I?
#40
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
........you suggest cleaning the UIM?
Originally Posted by Curt
......do a complete tear-down, inspection, clean-out and preventative maintenance of the UIM.....
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
.....What kind of vacuum hose did you use on the nipple?
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
.....I'd love to get those pics from you.
Originally Posted by Curt
...give me an email address and I'll send them to you.