Engine break In.
10-25-2006, 06:54 PM
#5
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I would change the oil alot. Thats just me though.
If it were me, I would do oil changes at 500, then at 1500 then at 2500. Then start yours 3000 mile oil changes. Wait till about 10K to go to Synthetic.
-matt
If it were me, I would do oil changes at 500, then at 1500 then at 2500. Then start yours 3000 mile oil changes. Wait till about 10K to go to Synthetic.
-matt
10-25-2006, 06:57 PM
#6
I would change the oil every 500 miles until 2.5k or so. Also, vary engine speeds as much as possible (very important). Don't baby it, don't abuse it. Use fairly aggressive throttle inputs when accelerating since that pushes the rings out against the cylinder and expedites ring seating.
10-25-2006, 07:00 PM
#7
Originally Posted by MaxBlack97
wha exactly do u mean by whats the best way?
Originally Posted by matty
If it were me, I would do oil changes at 500, then at 1500 then at 2500. Then start yours 3000 mile oil changes. Wait till about 10K to go to Synthetic
10-26-2006, 04:00 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by nismology
I would change the oil every 500 miles until 2.5k or so. Also, vary engine speeds as much as possible (very important). Don't baby it, don't abuse it. Use fairly aggressive throttle inputs when accelerating since that pushes the rings out against the cylinder and expedites ring seating.
2006 G35 Coupe 6MT Blk/BLK
.. I would have thought that you knew better than that...
10-26-2006, 07:23 AM
#13
Redline a few times. Change oil at 300-500 miles. Replace with Castrol GTX. Change oil at 3000 miles. Replace with GTX, change again at 7k miles, replace with GTX, change again at 11k miles. Switch to Mobil1 or Amsoil.
The 300-500 miles should have all kinds of driving in it.
The 300-500 miles should have all kinds of driving in it.
10-26-2006, 09:15 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Zack342
Thanks. I asked the sales guy if its ok switching to synthetic but he didn't know anyone have recommendations. Can I redline it?
2006 G35 Coupe 6MT Blk/BLK
2006 G35 Coupe 6MT Blk/BLK
I would follow the oil changes every 500 until 2500 tho.
10-26-2006, 09:54 AM
#17
Originally Posted by hightuner
Wow i am amaze that we have to use normal oil for the start and then switch to syntech
didn know that
didn know that
10-28-2006, 09:30 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Redline a few times. Change oil at 300-500 miles. Replace with Castrol GTX. Change oil at 3000 miles. Replace with GTX, change again at 7k miles, replace with GTX, change again at 11k miles. Switch to Mobil1 or Amsoil.
The 300-500 miles should have all kinds of driving in it.
The 300-500 miles should have all kinds of driving in it.
More specifically on the redline thing, do a few 3rd and 4th gear runs, start low and run the gear, slow down, do it again.
Engine load is what is important, not speed.
Although if you are only keeping the car <100,000 it doesn't make a bit of difference and ultimately considering the engine, it doesn't matter.
10-28-2006, 09:49 PM
#25
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
why? his question has already been anwered. Nismology hit the high points...
PS: Don't hit the limiter, hell let off a few hundred shy of it.
Oil changes every 500 miles for the first 2500? A good way to **** a way a lot of oil. Most of the wear happens within the first 500 miles. If someone is determined to change their oil that much do it at 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000 and start a normal change interval but know that it really isn't making a bit of difference.
Just do what the manual says (which probably is first oil change at 3000 miles, or in that ball park) or ask one of the techs. All the salesman knows is how to get you in the car and out of the lot.
Take it easy in first and second, jolting the **** out of the engine/drivetrain isn't going to help the bearings.
10-29-2006, 04:44 AM
#26
Originally Posted by MrGone
For the wrong reasons, load the critical part, not speed. You will have better results with an engine running 70-80% load at <4000rpm pulls than you will with an engine with <20% load going to the limiter.
PS: Don't hit the limiter, hell let off a few hundred shy of it.
Oil changes every 500 miles for the first 2500? A good way to **** a way a lot of oil. Most of the wear happens within the first 500 miles. If someone is determined to change their oil that much do it at 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000 and start a normal change interval but know that it really isn't making a bit of difference.
Just do what the manual says (which probably is first oil change at 3000 miles, or in that ball park) or ask one of the techs. All the salesman knows is how to get you in the car and out of the lot.
Take it easy in first and second, jolting the **** out of the engine/drivetrain isn't going to help the bearings.
PS: Don't hit the limiter, hell let off a few hundred shy of it.
Oil changes every 500 miles for the first 2500? A good way to **** a way a lot of oil. Most of the wear happens within the first 500 miles. If someone is determined to change their oil that much do it at 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000 and start a normal change interval but know that it really isn't making a bit of difference.
Just do what the manual says (which probably is first oil change at 3000 miles, or in that ball park) or ask one of the techs. All the salesman knows is how to get you in the car and out of the lot.
Take it easy in first and second, jolting the **** out of the engine/drivetrain isn't going to help the bearings.
And who said anything about high engine speed? I said that engine speed should be varied as much as possible. The worst thing someone can do is stick it in cruise control while the motor is breaking in. This means doing 55, speeding up to 65 or so, coming back down, downshifting one gear, etc.
And yes applying substantial load is important, but only for short bursts to prevent a buildup of heat which can cause glazing.
10-29-2006, 04:51 PM
#27
10-29-2006, 07:22 PM
#28
Do what Gone said. It's what engine builders have been using for decades and works very well.
the reason you don't use synthetic at first is that there's too little friction and the piston rings take much MUCH longer to seat. you need a certain amount of friction in the engine to get the engine to break in and the rings to seat properly. once it's broken in, then you can switch to synth.
the reason you don't use synthetic at first is that there's too little friction and the piston rings take much MUCH longer to seat. you need a certain amount of friction in the engine to get the engine to break in and the rings to seat properly. once it's broken in, then you can switch to synth.
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