What do you mean working from the sensors?

 

Ok. Well, figured i would respond with MY findings...

My vacuum setup is a lil different from what you guys have, but i basically acheived the proper setup. But i think i figured out my problem with the EVAP and Absolute pressure sensor Codes.

I have never taken a look at the EVAP canister behind the driver wheel before, and i decided to take it all off the car and "inspect" everything and found that there are no wires or any electrical stuff for that matter connected to the EVAP canister on my car...I think this is due to the fact that i have a 95? Also the Absolute pressure sensor (AKA boost sensor) is not equiped on the 1995 maximas EITHER, at least i cant find it anywhere...

I recently just did a 5spd swap on my car, and bought an ECU off of a 96 max to finalize my swap...i did not know about the differences between 95 to 96+ but i think MY codes are a result of the 96 ECU not geting feedback from sensors that were not installed on the 95 originally.

I know this is pretty irelevant from your problems but i figured i would come back and post my findings, hopefully if any of my assumtions are wrong, some of you will chime in

 

A week later, and I still have no CEL... Problems solved.. Although i might need to change my IACV, doesnt keep idle steady..

 

Make sure your TPS is properly adjusted (around 500 ohms at closed throttle). I had this problem for a while before i made GOOD adjustments to the TPS...

BTW, are you having idle issues while the car is warming up? Does it smooth out after the car is warm?

 

I adjusted my TPS previously and it was set to 489ohms closed, closest I could get to 500ohms. I might readjust again soon to see if I can get it proper. As far as idling while warming up, I have to do the fast idle because I am using a 5G TB. Idle is smooth always.

 

You have to do the Fast idle? wut do you mean? Im using the 5th gen TB as well, and i have tried EVERYTHING to get my fast idlel to kick in during cold starts....but never could get it working...

As far as the TPS, i dont know if that is close enough, if you have THAT big of a problem adjusting closer to 500Ohms you may have a faulty TPS...I know its a pain in the **** to get that thing adjusted right...but keep playing with it...took me a really long time to be able to get it "just right"

 

I have to be the fast idle for my car when it is doing a cold start. Reason being is because the Fast idle cam is located on the 4G TB so with a 5G one, it will not do the usual rev up to 1200 and slowly come down when the temperature gets warm.

I will break out the ohm meter sooner or later and get it tweaked just right. Its not that big of a problem usually only hovers 100-150rpm variants.

 

you are using the 5th gen TB and the 4th gen TPS and you can achieve a 500ohm reading at idle?? i still cant get mine to do that.. even when i put a new one on..

 

I have the same setup and i got minez at like 498 Ohms...It just takes a gentle hand...

 

yup, I just tightened the adjustment screws enough to where I can give a minuscule tilt to the TPS until I got a .498 reading.

 

i dont understand this then.. with either new or old TPS i still cant acheive this reading.. the best i can do is fully turn it to one side and get a reading of like 600.. i dont know what i am doing wrong..

 

maybe u applied it wrong to the TB? if u know what I mean

 

Like Gold tooth said...Make sure that the TPS is correctly attached...the little tab on the TPS is suposed to be positioned in a specific spot on the TB....I dont really know how to explain this without showing a picture...and i have none...But this COULD be your problem...

Im pretty sure there is a good write-up that explains it...

I know its pretty difficult to adjust the TPS and hold the Multi-meter at the same time...Wut i do is take some old power cables for an old AMP i used to have in the trunk and cut two peices about an inch or long. I shove one side of the multi-meter prongs on a side of the cut speaker cable, and i shove the other end of the cable into the prong it needs to contact with on the TPS, i do this for both POS and NEG. This way i can use both hands to slightly make minor adjustments on the TPS...Remember not to loosen the screws too much or the adjustments will be way to hard, make it tight enough where you can only slide it a little back and forth....

Hope this helps ya...

 

ok im almost positive i have the tps on there correctly.. correct me if i am wrong.. but the tab should be placed on the TB butterfly shaft so that the spring inside the tps is always under pressure.. i.e. when you have the two screws (on tps) loose enough and you are holding the tps at a certain point then you go to let go the spring (on tps) moves the tps all the way to one side.. also to make things easier i am using some alligator clips for checking the tps.. so it makes it a little easier..

 

Well some of us dont have this fancy smanshy stuff! lol

yea my way is a bit ghetto..but it sure beats tape...hahaha

I think im reading your description properly...and yes i do believe you have it hooked up the right way...someone chime in if im wrong...

 

Alligator clips are the way to go for setting the TPS. That's what I was told at least. What's the deal with the spring? Stock part?

 

there is a spring inside the tps that causes the lever arm to move back to the initial position when the throttle body closes.. thats what i was talking about.. the one on there now is a factory nissan part.. the new one i got from an auto part store.. but they read the same at any adjustment.. so this leads me to think my tps isnt bad.. although i second guess myself since i cant get either one to ohm out right at idle and WOT..

 

Ok that's what I thought. Thanks.