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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
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Headers design

Ok I currently have these RWD headers for my 240:

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel...der-dp-y-1.JPG

This winter I want to set my engine back and as you can see from this design, the driver side header would end up being right where my right foot mashing the gas pedal should be.

So I was thinking of going with two equal FWD headers since they angle DOWN instead of REARWARD. But I do NOT want to sacrifice any performance.

So up first we have these:



That's the OBX/Cattman style header. I would need ONLY the portion on the front of the engine, but twice since this is RWD.

Next we have a cheap option:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-9...ayphotohosting

200$ on Ebay, and I can sell the y-pipe alone as is. But they seem awfully short and I wonder how that would affect power (and sound).

So how do all 3 of those headers compare? Theorically, based on the design, how do the RWD headers shown compare to the other 2 combos I mentionned, power and sound wise? I assume it's a priority to have equal length tubing, but it's the length of the tubing before they join that's questionable to me.
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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dont even waste ur time with the ebay ones...ge OBX...and just have a shop cut and weld to rotate the flange at the bottom of the header and run duals
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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I've contacted Cattman about this. The new Cattman headers BOTH point down. So I hope he'll sell me just the two header manifolds without the FWD Y-pipe that normally comes with the headers kit.

I just bought an alcove for 60$ at home depot to form the "new" firewall.

Like this Camaro (they did it for handling!):
http://www.bankspower.com/camaro-FirewallCowlMod.cfm

The engine will be set back fully 14 inches, and retain a mostly stock crossmember. So that will make my 240 "front/mid engined" since 100% of the engine will be behind the front axle. The driveshaft will only be about 3 foot long!
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JClaw
This winter I want to set my engine back and as you can see from this design, the driver side header would end up being right where my left foot mashing the gas pedal should be.
I'm confused. First I would've asked RHD conversion, but that still wouldn't make sense, pedals are the same...
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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Now that you bring it up, it would be less confusing had I said RIGHT foot. I'll change that now.
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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http://www.engineswaptech.com/photos...8/497x375.aspx

Have you thought about running the ones you have this way? It would work out good for a front mounted turbo setup atleast, not sure what your eventual goals are concerning that though.

Another thing, to push your motor back that far it looks like to me your going to have to lower it quite a bit to clear the bottom of your windshield. Once you've lowered it that much I'm afraid you'll have a serious clearance problem with the bottom of your tranny and mother earth. Maybe you have a plan for that?


Fred
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JClaw
This winter I want to set my engine back and as you can see from this design, the driver side header would end up being right where my right foot mashing the gas pedal should be.

So I was thinking of going with two equal FWD headers since they angle DOWN instead of REARWARD. But I do NOT want to sacrifice any performance.

So up first we have these:



That's the OBX/Cattman style header. I would need ONLY the portion on the front of the engine, but twice since this is RWD.
Errr... If you look at the bolt pattern on the header flange on the front and rear sections, the bolts on the drivers-side of the front and back slant toward the passenger side at the top. If you were to try and bolt the front section to the rear head, I don't think the bolts would line up.....

I like the way these look - I was thinking about buying a set - but you would have to use the front and rear "downtube" section as-is, then custom-make the rest for your RWD project - I think...??..
Old Nov 12, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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Dont mean to get off the subject or try to take over this thread but my question is simple and isnt worth creating a new thread... Does anyone know if the OEM header gasket and the OBX header gasket are the same... I currently have OBX headers on my 3.0 and i'm doing the 3.5 swap this weekend so I figured might as well replace the header gaskets with new ones. I figure they would be but I just want to make sure.

Thanks.. and again, sorry!
Old Nov 12, 2006 | 11:45 PM
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I have a set of brand new SSAUTOCHROME headers for the VQ30... I bought them as part of the y-pipe set... My schedule doesn't allow me hardly any free time, so installing them isn't likely any time soon.


If you want them, I'll sell them $150shipped. They ask for 195 + shipping on their site.
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Errr... If you look at the bolt pattern on the header flange on the front and rear sections, the bolts on the drivers-side of the front and back slant toward the passenger side at the top. If you were to try and bolt the front section to the rear head, I don't think the bolts would line up.....

I like the way these look - I was thinking about buying a set - but you would have to use the front and rear "downtube" section as-is, then custom-make the rest for your RWD project - I think...??..
That was just an example. The Cattmans have both front and rear "downtube" sections point down.

And no matter what headers I use I always had to do the rest of the exhaust custom myself. That's not an option.
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Fred Allen Burge
Another thing, to push your motor back that far it looks like to me your going to have to lower it quite a bit to clear the bottom of your windshield. Once you've lowered it that much I'm afraid you'll have a serious clearance problem with the bottom of your tranny and mother earth. Maybe you have a plan for that?
The engine will be a little lower than it is now, only 14 inches back so the front of the engine clears the (slightly modded) crossmember. The firewall will be "adapted" to accept the engine's position, and the intake will also be "adapted" to fit its position.

The VQ35, at the rear where the transmission meets the bellhousing, is 22 inches tall without the upper intake manifold. I have way more than that at the firewall from the bottom of the frame rails to the base of the windshield.

Seriously I don't see how I won't be able to sit the engine about the same height it is now. Maybe 2 inches lower at most.
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:47 PM
  #12  
absoundlab
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i dont know if anyone else sees it but there is noway these would work on the maxima
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 04:48 PM
  #13  
absoundlab
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well actualy i take that back they have the front manifold mounted on the rear and the rear one mounted on the front
Old Nov 14, 2006 | 05:48 PM
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Well it looks like I will be placing a special order with Cattman in the next few weeks. He's willing to sell me only the two manifolds for a reasonable price considering the full header is like 800+. I had his Gen I (original) headers on my max and I loved them - the sound is a VQ35 trademark lol

Now the new ones are a little better, peak a little higher and are full stainless.
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