pathfinder intake manifold...will it fit?
10-14-2009, 05:51 PM
#41
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Screw it, I'm going to let the cat out of the bag.
Within a few days the question of whether or not this manifold will fit will finally be answered. Honestly I'm pretty sure that regardless I will make it happen (and rather quickly since I'm doing it on my DD) Because it just so happens that the hood on my I30 is not worth fixing the damage if/when I ever get my car painted one color, so if I have to cut a hole in it I will. Also, my new shop is about 1000ft down the road from where I dyno, so there will definitly be an after dyno. No before because I didn't really want to waste the money, and I wanted my car to be 'down' to change my spark-plugs & exhaust at the same time as this swap (Original plugs w/100k were pretty junk!) instead of before just for accurate dyno's.
Anyways, phase 1 is complete!! My I30 is currently at the shop with a Pathfinder VQ35de front valve cover adapted on. I am confident that I got it to "work" by using Quicksteel to stop it from pissing oil (Instead of removing the timing cover & chains to switch the #1 cam bearing cap, the reason you technically can't use a 3.5 vc on a 3.0, the cam bearings are the same; sorta; but the valvecover portion of it isn't).
Gotta love that JBstickweld/quicksteel stuff, I am very confident that it will not leak ever, if anything it might leak where I repaired the valve cover where it was damaged extensively from being on a crashed motor. (Yes, Joe, I didn't use yours, I might down the road but that thing was NASTY inside, someone was on a 20K oil change schedule, lol. It's curently soaking in gas for a few days).
Anyways, in addition to sealing up the valve cover, I also had to do the following to get the pathy vc to work: Use 3.5 coils with the wire parts from a 3.0, this left a gap and they couldn't be bolted down without spacers, #6 wouldn't have been able to be bolted down anyways unless I cut back the harness a little, so I skipped this for now and jusy popped them in, no big deal as the '02vi car hasn't had #1 or #5 coils bolted down for about a year and zero issues. (Quick note about that, I am soon going to swap a 3.5 rear vc onto the back of that car to eliminate the sparkplug wire being e-taped to a coilpack, which also hasn't given any issues).
The other thing I had to do to get it to work: The main reason the Pathy VC is needed is for the oil-fill, it has a seperate extension peice that allows it to clear the manifold. Test fitting the manifold on a de-k I had laying around proved that the manifold wouldn't clear a DE-K oil cap, and even if it cleared a DE oil cap- this plenum wouldn't be fun to remove everytime I did an oil change. So the Pathy VC has to be used, but of course the oil-fill extension didn't clear the hood! (Hope it's not a sign of clearance problems to come
) Even AFTER I ripped the hood insulation off to check for a brace that could be removed, and even after I hacked up a DE oil cap to stealth mode it still wouldn't clear. So out came the whizzer wheel to cut and re-angle the extension peice so it was shorter and would still clear the Pathy Manifold. Of course that left me with more Quicksteel work to reattach it all.
It came out nice though. I can still lay my V6-3000 cover over everything and it looks sharp, just need some way to attach it...... hummmmm, more quicksteel perhaps
So anyways, I'm off to sleep so I can get up by 3 and be at the garage by 5 to rip the USIM off and go to town. probably going to run into lots of issues and have to coble tons of stuff togethor, but I'll keep everyone updated on the progress.
Within a few days the question of whether or not this manifold will fit will finally be answered. Honestly I'm pretty sure that regardless I will make it happen (and rather quickly since I'm doing it on my DD) Because it just so happens that the hood on my I30 is not worth fixing the damage if/when I ever get my car painted one color, so if I have to cut a hole in it I will. Also, my new shop is about 1000ft down the road from where I dyno, so there will definitly be an after dyno. No before because I didn't really want to waste the money, and I wanted my car to be 'down' to change my spark-plugs & exhaust at the same time as this swap (Original plugs w/100k were pretty junk!) instead of before just for accurate dyno's.
Anyways, phase 1 is complete!! My I30 is currently at the shop with a Pathfinder VQ35de front valve cover adapted on. I am confident that I got it to "work" by using Quicksteel to stop it from pissing oil (Instead of removing the timing cover & chains to switch the #1 cam bearing cap, the reason you technically can't use a 3.5 vc on a 3.0, the cam bearings are the same; sorta; but the valvecover portion of it isn't).
Gotta love that JBstickweld/quicksteel stuff, I am very confident that it will not leak ever, if anything it might leak where I repaired the valve cover where it was damaged extensively from being on a crashed motor. (Yes, Joe, I didn't use yours, I might down the road but that thing was NASTY inside, someone was on a 20K oil change schedule, lol. It's curently soaking in gas for a few days).
Anyways, in addition to sealing up the valve cover, I also had to do the following to get the pathy vc to work: Use 3.5 coils with the wire parts from a 3.0, this left a gap and they couldn't be bolted down without spacers, #6 wouldn't have been able to be bolted down anyways unless I cut back the harness a little, so I skipped this for now and jusy popped them in, no big deal as the '02vi car hasn't had #1 or #5 coils bolted down for about a year and zero issues. (Quick note about that, I am soon going to swap a 3.5 rear vc onto the back of that car to eliminate the sparkplug wire being e-taped to a coilpack, which also hasn't given any issues).
The other thing I had to do to get it to work: The main reason the Pathy VC is needed is for the oil-fill, it has a seperate extension peice that allows it to clear the manifold. Test fitting the manifold on a de-k I had laying around proved that the manifold wouldn't clear a DE-K oil cap, and even if it cleared a DE oil cap- this plenum wouldn't be fun to remove everytime I did an oil change. So the Pathy VC has to be used, but of course the oil-fill extension didn't clear the hood! (Hope it's not a sign of clearance problems to come
) Even AFTER I ripped the hood insulation off to check for a brace that could be removed, and even after I hacked up a DE oil cap to stealth mode it still wouldn't clear. So out came the whizzer wheel to cut and re-angle the extension peice so it was shorter and would still clear the Pathy Manifold. Of course that left me with more Quicksteel work to reattach it all. It came out nice though. I can still lay my V6-3000 cover over everything and it looks sharp, just need some way to attach it...... hummmmm, more quicksteel perhaps
So anyways, I'm off to sleep so I can get up by 3 and be at the garage by 5 to rip the USIM off and go to town. probably going to run into lots of issues and have to coble tons of stuff togethor, but I'll keep everyone updated on the progress.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 10-14-2009 at 05:59 PM.
10-14-2009, 08:15 PM
#45
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3.0 4 life!
And just to clarify a few things: This manifolds plops right onto a DE lower, the ports line up, the bolt holes line up, just the stepped studs in the 3.0 lower need to be replaced with bolts. The iacv is built into the TB, I will try to switch and modify the plug since supposedly that works (Didn't last time I tried). There is no EGR, down the road I will deal with that along with using a selenoid valve + thermo switch to fix cold starts for good.
And just to clarify a few things: This manifolds plops right onto a DE lower, the ports line up, the bolt holes line up, just the stepped studs in the 3.0 lower need to be replaced with bolts. The iacv is built into the TB, I will try to switch and modify the plug since supposedly that works (Didn't last time I tried). There is no EGR, down the road I will deal with that along with using a selenoid valve + thermo switch to fix cold starts for good.
10-14-2009, 08:59 PM
#48
10-14-2009, 09:15 PM
#49
Also, kev, Dave and I discussed a while back the possibilities of transforming this manifold into a short runner manifold. I.E. basically, cutting where the red lines are and having the holes welded shut. You could have whats left of the runners smoothed out and ported for low turbulence.
10-15-2009, 01:54 AM
#51
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Also, kev, Dave and I discussed a while back the possibilities of transforming this manifold into a short runner manifold. I.E. basically, cutting where the red lines are and having the holes welded shut. You could have whats left of the runners smoothed out and ported for low turbulence.
It would help alleviate one concern I have though, which is puddling in the long runners, I'd hate to blow this intake manifold to smitherenes on the bottle. I'm not sure if I should just be extra conservative with my mimimum spray rpm setting, or have a manual override to open the runners to high mode while spraying, or both, or use it as an excuse to run a direct port setup.
This is all depending though, as of right now my nitrous kit is chilling in my basement and I've been trying to sell it locally for short money. I've been dumping all of my performance stuff and toys because if all goes according to plan I will be off to an elite professional dog training school in April, I just need to get accepted and have $15k in the bank, both of which are coming togethor, so I might just do some dyno's, run it for a month or so, and then put it up for sale. Assuming I can even get it to work of course, it's still not on and running yet, and the valve cover had more obstacles than I anticipated.
10-15-2009, 08:44 AM
#52
Not a fan of doing that, one of the main reasons I want this manifold on my car is because even though I take my car to redline at least 5 times every day, I take my car to 3000rpms 5,00000 times a day.
It would help alleviate one concern I have though, which is puddling in the long runners, I'd hate to blow this intake manifold to smitherenes on the bottle. I'm not sure if I should just be extra conservative with my mimimum spray rpm setting, or have a manual override to open the runners to high mode while spraying, or both, or use it as an excuse to run a direct port setup.
This is all depending though, as of right now my nitrous kit is chilling in my basement and I've been trying to sell it locally for short money. I've been dumping all of my performance stuff and toys because if all goes according to plan I will be off to an elite professional dog training school in April, I just need to get accepted and have $15k in the bank, both of which are coming togethor, so I might just do some dyno's, run it for a month or so, and then put it up for sale. Assuming I can even get it to work of course, it's still not on and running yet, and the valve cover had more obstacles than I anticipated.
It would help alleviate one concern I have though, which is puddling in the long runners, I'd hate to blow this intake manifold to smitherenes on the bottle. I'm not sure if I should just be extra conservative with my mimimum spray rpm setting, or have a manual override to open the runners to high mode while spraying, or both, or use it as an excuse to run a direct port setup.
This is all depending though, as of right now my nitrous kit is chilling in my basement and I've been trying to sell it locally for short money. I've been dumping all of my performance stuff and toys because if all goes according to plan I will be off to an elite professional dog training school in April, I just need to get accepted and have $15k in the bank, both of which are coming togethor, so I might just do some dyno's, run it for a month or so, and then put it up for sale. Assuming I can even get it to work of course, it's still not on and running yet, and the valve cover had more obstacles than I anticipated.
10-15-2009, 04:18 PM
#53
10-15-2009, 04:20 PM
#54
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Phenolic spacer, or raising the intake ever so slightly in any way would require a hole in the hood 5 times the size of the current one. It would be like the entire hood, like what you would have to do to use a Z33 IM with 5/16 spacer on a 3.5 swapped 4th gen (Speaking from experience on that one, the hole in his hood is MASSIVE), and even then you still might not have clearance issues.
Ok so I never notixced in test fitting that the 3.0 lower has to be flipped around, or it may be possible to do this swap with the pathy vc on the back but that looked like it might present even more issues so I did it with the TB facing the front as originally planned & intended. For some reason flipping the 3.0 lower freed up space between the oil-fill and intake somehow, so when I cut that down and reattached it to clear the hood I didn't have to be as exact as I thought when I reattached it. The iacv is deathly close to the VC and #4 coilpack, but it clears, even if the iacv was removed from the pftb you would still need the pathy front vc because of clearance, unless you used a spacer and cut a hole in the hood 5 times larger.
Anyways, collectors are all bolted up, tons of stuff has been dealt with, I thought it was going to be ready to rock and roll 1st thing tommorrow morning after putting the pathy throttle cable in (The A32 one is to short) Unfortunatly the pathy cable is to long, so it will have a sketchy loop/routing until I can take some measurements and then hopefully (With the help of you guys) find a throttle cable that will be just right.
So something is going on, either massive vacuum leaks (which i doubt) OR for some reason my car just won't run without an iacv. I had the intake, maf, tps all set, went to fire it up and had some issues. I tried aevery possible combination regarding pf iacv plug orientation, propping open throttle, disconnecting tps, and no matter what i couldn't get it to do more than start & stall, start & rev to 4k then stall, or start & rev to 4k and slowly stumble to a stall. It REALLY seemed like even when I propped open the throttle the ecu was screaming.... "AAAH can't control idle, aaaah, can't control idle, aaaah idle to high quick fuel cut fuel cut, aaaah idle to low, stay alive stay alive." I know people on here have gotten these cars to run with no IACV, in fact I think I have in the past as well, but I really think that's what was going on. No codes other than iacv.
Tommorrow when I get time I will plumb up the 4th gen iacv and go from there, pressure testing for leaks if I still have problems. Then it's just a matter of throttle cable, and running the wires for the activation selenoid, which for now will be a toggle swiytch inside.
Stupid fire burnt motor, it toasted the actuator diaphgram for the vias, so I had to custom adapt one from a fwd 3.5 onto it, which was fun and involved welding Using a 3.5 vacuum canister and a randomn selenoid, that stuff is all plumbed up and functional.
Hopefully have some pics up and driving impressions real soon guys, Dyno won't be till next week sometime though.
Ok so I never notixced in test fitting that the 3.0 lower has to be flipped around, or it may be possible to do this swap with the pathy vc on the back but that looked like it might present even more issues so I did it with the TB facing the front as originally planned & intended. For some reason flipping the 3.0 lower freed up space between the oil-fill and intake somehow, so when I cut that down and reattached it to clear the hood I didn't have to be as exact as I thought when I reattached it. The iacv is deathly close to the VC and #4 coilpack, but it clears, even if the iacv was removed from the pftb you would still need the pathy front vc because of clearance, unless you used a spacer and cut a hole in the hood 5 times larger.
Anyways, collectors are all bolted up, tons of stuff has been dealt with, I thought it was going to be ready to rock and roll 1st thing tommorrow morning after putting the pathy throttle cable in (The A32 one is to short) Unfortunatly the pathy cable is to long, so it will have a sketchy loop/routing until I can take some measurements and then hopefully (With the help of you guys) find a throttle cable that will be just right.
So something is going on, either massive vacuum leaks (which i doubt) OR for some reason my car just won't run without an iacv. I had the intake, maf, tps all set, went to fire it up and had some issues. I tried aevery possible combination regarding pf iacv plug orientation, propping open throttle, disconnecting tps, and no matter what i couldn't get it to do more than start & stall, start & rev to 4k then stall, or start & rev to 4k and slowly stumble to a stall. It REALLY seemed like even when I propped open the throttle the ecu was screaming.... "AAAH can't control idle, aaaah, can't control idle, aaaah idle to high quick fuel cut fuel cut, aaaah idle to low, stay alive stay alive." I know people on here have gotten these cars to run with no IACV, in fact I think I have in the past as well, but I really think that's what was going on. No codes other than iacv.
Tommorrow when I get time I will plumb up the 4th gen iacv and go from there, pressure testing for leaks if I still have problems. Then it's just a matter of throttle cable, and running the wires for the activation selenoid, which for now will be a toggle swiytch inside.
Stupid fire burnt motor, it toasted the actuator diaphgram for the vias, so I had to custom adapt one from a fwd 3.5 onto it, which was fun and involved welding
Using a 3.5 vacuum canister and a randomn selenoid, that stuff is all plumbed up and functional. Hopefully have some pics up and driving impressions real soon guys, Dyno won't be till next week sometime though.
10-15-2009, 04:24 PM
#55
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I beleive so, in fact with the de-k lower I don't think anything would need to be reversed, not that it matters at all. But don't quote me on any of this as I haven't tried it myself. The de-k I was test fitting on originally had a regular de lower on it.
10-15-2009, 04:25 PM
#56
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Randomn fact, this is the 2nd car I have owned that I had to cut a hole in the hood to fit a pathfinder intake manifold on. Except the other one was a VG turbo Z31 .
Oh and yes, this time I tried using spacers on the back of the hood, hahaha, that was an incredible waste of time, the clearance issues are to far forward, you would need like 4" extra space back there.
Oh and yes, this time I tried using spacers on the back of the hood, hahaha, that was an incredible waste of time, the clearance issues are to far forward, you would need like 4" extra space back there.
10-15-2009, 05:00 PM
#57
Randomn fact, this is the 2nd car I have owned that I had to cut a hole in the hood to fit a pathfinder intake manifold on. Except the other one was a VG turbo Z31 .
Oh and yes, this time I tried using spacers on the back of the hood, hahaha, that was an incredible waste of time, the clearance issues are to far forward, you would need like 4" extra space back there.
Oh and yes, this time I tried using spacers on the back of the hood, hahaha, that was an incredible waste of time, the clearance issues are to far forward, you would need like 4" extra space back there.
I thought about having to do something like this. The only thing I thought about was setting the hood upside down, making a frame out of 2x4s and pounding the hood outward. Im not sure what it would do to the paint (in regards to splitting, cracking, etc) but if you could get it even, it would just be a hump.
Awaiting what you think about this setup vs the 00VI.
10-15-2009, 05:22 PM
#58
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I thought about having to do something like this. The only thing I thought about was setting the hood upside down, making a frame out of 2x4s and pounding the hood outward. Im not sure what it would do to the paint (in regards to splitting, cracking, etc) but if you could get it even, it would just be a hump.
Awaiting what you think about this setup vs the 00VI.
I should stop rambling, anyways I don't think you would have much luck banging the hood out, it would probably look much much worse then a hole. Also, I think this hole is "scoop'able", Unlike the Z33IM hood, which for a temporary fix we cut the cowl section out of a fiberglass hood for a 80's mustang (It's louvered and is like a 3" cowl!!), spraypainted it white, and used urethane to stick it over the maxima hood. It is hysterical from 20' and closer, but actually looks pretty sick from 100+ feet, between 20 and 100 feet most people are probably just starting to go...... "Wait, what the hell is that...... oh my, is that a ......... wait, is that, oh my god look at that thing".
Me and him can laugh about it though because we are both fully aware of two things: 1: That it looks hideous. and 2: It's only there because underneath is a built 3.5 that revs to 7200 and makes power there as well.
Oh, one more thing..... WHEN IS SOMEONE GOING TO PORTMATCH AN '00VI ONTO A 5.5 GEN!!!!
Last edited by KRRZ350; 10-15-2009 at 05:25 PM.
10-15-2009, 06:40 PM
#59
10-15-2009, 07:41 PM
#60
Won't comment on that until the dyno results are in. Install wise though they both suck equally imho, I'm glad I am doing this for myself though, if I was to be doing this pathfinder swap for somebody it would be around $1k in labor, because assuming I have 4hr's left than I will have 16.5 hours into it, and that's in a legit shop working fast and with experience in this kind of stuff, and the regular work @ $65/hr is plentiful so I really tend to not sell myself short these days like I used to, the '02vi swap was easily twice as long and I think I did that for like $750'ish including all parts & dyno, allthough he is my best customer and easiest to deal with by far, I really like working on his stuff, and he's the type of guy that will pay me more than what I tell him when I sell myself short. Theres a few others that I really like working for as well also, I think they know who they are.
I should stop rambling, anyways I don't think you would have much luck banging the hood out, it would probably look much much worse then a hole. Also, I think this hole is "scoop'able", Unlike the Z33IM hood, which for a temporary fix we cut the cowl section out of a fiberglass hood for a 80's mustang (It's louvered and is like a 3" cowl!!), spraypainted it white, and used urethane to stick it over the maxima hood. It is hysterical from 20' and closer, but actually looks pretty sick from 100+ feet, between 20 and 100 feet most people are probably just starting to go...... "Wait, what the hell is that...... oh my, is that a ......... wait, is that, oh my god look at that thing".
Me and him can laugh about it though because we are both fully aware of two things: 1: That it looks hideous. and 2: It's only there because underneath is a built 3.5 that revs to 7200 and makes power there as well.
Oh, one more thing..... WHEN IS SOMEONE GOING TO PORTMATCH AN '00VI ONTO A 5.5 GEN!!!!
I should stop rambling, anyways I don't think you would have much luck banging the hood out, it would probably look much much worse then a hole. Also, I think this hole is "scoop'able", Unlike the Z33IM hood, which for a temporary fix we cut the cowl section out of a fiberglass hood for a 80's mustang (It's louvered and is like a 3" cowl!!), spraypainted it white, and used urethane to stick it over the maxima hood. It is hysterical from 20' and closer, but actually looks pretty sick from 100+ feet, between 20 and 100 feet most people are probably just starting to go...... "Wait, what the hell is that...... oh my, is that a ......... wait, is that, oh my god look at that thing".
Me and him can laugh about it though because we are both fully aware of two things: 1: That it looks hideous. and 2: It's only there because underneath is a built 3.5 that revs to 7200 and makes power there as well.
Oh, one more thing..... WHEN IS SOMEONE GOING TO PORTMATCH AN '00VI ONTO A 5.5 GEN!!!!
at all of the above.That being said, you're right about the scoop.
And, if I had a 3.5, Id 00VI it... but this DEK hurr is going to be getting an abundance of speeecial treatment
10-16-2009, 04:54 PM
#63
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Donations can be sent to Kevgoods@hotmail.com, because I just wasted a little bit of money and A CRAPLOAD of time............
That's right, this manifold is cucka. Crap, ****, junk, garbage. Honestly, I never ever ever thought that anything could be worse than the USIM, and I definitly never thought THIS manifold would be worse. But it looks that way. Fixed a vacuum leak caused by a clearance issue on one of the coil pack bosses (didn't grind far enough. Got it running & driving today, and noticed in the rain in 1st and 2nd it broke loose way easier. But that was where the fun stopped. After dyno results we verified throttle was opening all the way, actuator was holding up top, everything, I even opened the mani back up to verify that when the actuator was opened up that the high runner butterfly valves were indeed opening exactly as they should, and they were. Intake set-up was pretty good, it was TB to 3" rubber 90*, to a large 3" mandrel bent 90* which looped it back around near the abs actuator where the maf resided and nothing else, no need for an air filter etc for testing purposes. From the dyno's of high & low I determined the optimal activation point is 4500, rotfl.
No wisecracks please, I have a hole in my hood, my wallet, and my heart, and I know nobody saw this coming, weak midrange maybe, but not this:
Good thing I didn't hack up my clean usim to make a iacv adaptor, I almost did! At least now we know........ "Yes, the pathfinder manifold will fit.... it just won't make any power"
That's right, this manifold is cucka. Crap, ****, junk, garbage. Honestly, I never ever ever thought that anything could be worse than the USIM, and I definitly never thought THIS manifold would be worse. But it looks that way. Fixed a vacuum leak caused by a clearance issue on one of the coil pack bosses (didn't grind far enough. Got it running & driving today, and noticed in the rain in 1st and 2nd it broke loose way easier. But that was where the fun stopped. After dyno results we verified throttle was opening all the way, actuator was holding up top, everything, I even opened the mani back up to verify that when the actuator was opened up that the high runner butterfly valves were indeed opening exactly as they should, and they were. Intake set-up was pretty good, it was TB to 3" rubber 90*, to a large 3" mandrel bent 90* which looped it back around near the abs actuator where the maf resided and nothing else, no need for an air filter etc for testing purposes. From the dyno's of high & low I determined the optimal activation point is 4500, rotfl.
No wisecracks please, I have a hole in my hood, my wallet, and my heart, and I know nobody saw this coming, weak midrange maybe, but not this:
Good thing I didn't hack up my clean usim to make a iacv adaptor, I almost did! At least now we know........ "Yes, the pathfinder manifold will fit.... it just won't make any power"
Last edited by KRRZ350; 10-16-2009 at 04:58 PM.
10-16-2009, 05:03 PM
#64
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Also, kev, Dave and I discussed a while back the possibilities of transforming this manifold into a short runner manifold. I.E. basically, cutting where the red lines are and having the holes welded shut. You could have whats left of the runners smoothed out and ported for low turbulence.
10-16-2009, 07:46 PM
#67
But I am really sorry Kev, that really sucks ***. Wish it would've turned out better
I would donate, but I have $20 in my bank account, and $9 in my wallet. 
But yeah, if you do get a chance to try that, that would be epic. I thought about finding a pathy UIM to try it out, but DAMN it would save me some time/dyno effort and money!
10-16-2009, 09:27 PM
#70
10-16-2009, 10:06 PM
#72
I don't have the maxima anymore, and hell, I never even visit the org anymore
BUT, you're a badass Kev, you do alot to to help the community around here, and I wanted to pay my respects. check ur paypal.
sorry it's only $5
but I figured maybe it'll cover the duct tape....
BUT, you're a badass Kev, you do alot to to help the community around here, and I wanted to pay my respects. check ur paypal.
sorry it's only $5
but I figured maybe it'll cover the duct tape....
10-17-2009, 06:19 AM
#74
Donations can be sent to Kevgoods@hotmail.com, because I just wasted a little bit of money and A CRAPLOAD of time............
That's right, this manifold is cucka. Crap, ****, junk, garbage. Honestly, I never ever ever thought that anything could be worse than the USIM, and I definitly never thought THIS manifold would be worse. But it looks that way. Fixed a vacuum leak caused by a clearance issue on one of the coil pack bosses (didn't grind far enough. Got it running & driving today, and noticed in the rain in 1st and 2nd it broke loose way easier. But that was where the fun stopped. After dyno results we verified throttle was opening all the way, actuator was holding up top, everything, I even opened the mani back up to verify that when the actuator was opened up that the high runner butterfly valves were indeed opening exactly as they should, and they were. Intake set-up was pretty good, it was TB to 3" rubber 90*, to a large 3" mandrel bent 90* which looped it back around near the abs actuator where the maf resided and nothing else, no need for an air filter etc for testing purposes. From the dyno's of high & low I determined the optimal activation point is 4500, rotfl.
No wisecracks please, I have a hole in my hood, my wallet, and my heart, and I know nobody saw this coming, weak midrange maybe, but not this:
Good thing I didn't hack up my clean usim to make a iacv adaptor, I almost did! At least now we know........ "Yes, the pathfinder manifold will fit.... it just won't make any power"
That's right, this manifold is cucka. Crap, ****, junk, garbage. Honestly, I never ever ever thought that anything could be worse than the USIM, and I definitly never thought THIS manifold would be worse. But it looks that way. Fixed a vacuum leak caused by a clearance issue on one of the coil pack bosses (didn't grind far enough. Got it running & driving today, and noticed in the rain in 1st and 2nd it broke loose way easier. But that was where the fun stopped. After dyno results we verified throttle was opening all the way, actuator was holding up top, everything, I even opened the mani back up to verify that when the actuator was opened up that the high runner butterfly valves were indeed opening exactly as they should, and they were. Intake set-up was pretty good, it was TB to 3" rubber 90*, to a large 3" mandrel bent 90* which looped it back around near the abs actuator where the maf resided and nothing else, no need for an air filter etc for testing purposes. From the dyno's of high & low I determined the optimal activation point is 4500, rotfl.
No wisecracks please, I have a hole in my hood, my wallet, and my heart, and I know nobody saw this coming, weak midrange maybe, but not this:
Good thing I didn't hack up my clean usim to make a iacv adaptor, I almost did! At least now we know........ "Yes, the pathfinder manifold will fit.... it just won't make any power"
So does the intake runners switch back and fourth or is that just on the off setting?
I should of sold that Pathy intake manifold before you posted these dyno results. Looks like it's going to the scrap yard.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 10-17-2009 at 06:22 AM.
10-17-2009, 09:29 AM
#77
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I'm starting to think this more and more. It's almost like the short runners just don't have any effect. Driving on the highway a bunch and playing in 3rd and 4th, there is such a noticeable kick in power around 3-4k if I turn the high runners on & off, it seriously feels like having a 35 shot wired into my fog switch, but if I take it up top it just feels like the power never comes back and the short runners never come on line.
10-17-2009, 09:32 AM
#78
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Two runs in each setting. On the first off run though I didn't bother going past 5200 because I new it wouldn't make anything there, the 2nd off run was actually supposed to be an on run but I forgot to turn my headlights on.
10-17-2009, 10:18 AM
#79
Maybe you need a RPM window switch? Like on, off, on to get the most power.
10-17-2009, 11:03 AM
#80
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off and then on @ 4500 would be the best, and I did consider that maybe for some wacky reason the runners need to switch at the right time, but even trying that on the street it still didn't feel there.