Somebody help...this f'n thing does not work. After the install the car has a very rough idle at 2.5/2 rpms and stalls when I add throttle. Setup is:
4th LIM and Rails
5th UIM
4th TPS
4th IACV
4th cover and coils
PF TB (with block for both tb and iacv)

When I turn the key on I can hear something in the engine. Sounds like its the VIAS. Not sure if it should be doing anything like that when it first gets power. TPS is directly set to .5 and 4 ohms. IACV is set with 30 ohms resistance on all spots. There is no sound for any vaccuum leaks. The only thing not on the car is the airbox. What the hell is going on? It seems as tho I'm getting too much air into the engine and stalling. Please help me out.

 

Have you tried letting less air through the IACV and/or adjusting how far the TB closes?

 

Which way do you mean? Opening the tb a little? Adjusting the screw on the IACV?

 

You make sure all your injectors are plugged in under the manifold ?? Manifold bolts tightened down to spec ?? Who drilled your lower manifold ??

You have to start backtracking over your entire setup and look for something thats wrong...a gasket or a misplaced hose or something wrong.

You really didnt change all that much, just the manifold

-matt

 

You can play with the IACV plastic black screw but DO NOT TOUCH THE SET SCREW ON THE TB !!!!

-matt

 

does the rpm shoot up when starting up and start to climb? does it bounce at all? if it bounces it might be the TPS, and if i remember correctly the TPS is supposed to be calibrated when warm.

 

Yes, All calibrations should be done when warm. Also you should have used all new gaskets. Are you sure the egr guide tube is sitting properly. You have new pics of your hose gallery????

 

Ok guys.

Matt, I'm afraid the injectors arn't lined right so I may be looking into that.
aznsap, the car shoots to 3 rpm when started then goes to 2/2.5 and the rpms do bounce and the car vibrates a lot.
speed, I did the hoses as you said. I have the mid pipe and the evap hoses directly from their spots up to the sources. All other hoses are vaccuumed. No pics now. I'll try to take some tomorrow.

I know I was getting a leak from my block/tb so my father and I are sealing that in the morning. Hoping that fixes the leak. If not I think the injectors are the problem. I dont remember what the rails originally looked like but I think I might see a gap between the injectors and LIM. That would mean new o rings are needed. I'll have to let you all know. So we all agree it to be a vaccuum problem correct?

edit: I'm also not sure how to set the tps on warm if the car won;t stay running. Any input if I should use the 4th or PF tps?

 

Do you smell gas ?? You didnt have to pull the Injectors out of the rail, so the o-rings are prob fine. Do you have your injector ground wires re-wired around the rear of the manifold to the stock bolt locations.

Get some pics. In the mean time....

Either TPS will do. Take the TB off your car and get a .3mm and a .4mm feeler gauge and pick yourself up a Haynes manual. Adjust the TPS as per the book. Its a very precise setting but will work and will require a multi-meter as well. Dont just adjust for .5V at idle and 4 at WOT. Do the feeler gauge

-matt

 

ok...there shouldnt be a gap between the injectors and LIM right? Not sure if I'm smelling gas. Exhaust fumes for sure but i'm in the garage. Maybe a small amount of gas smell. Ground wires are bolted to the back of the manifold. Setting the tps with feeler gauges isnt really described well in the manual. It just says continuity should not be measured? That means the multimeter should not move at all? Whats up?

 

Its explained very well

put .3mm Feeler gauge in-between the stopper screw and the TB plate...measure continunity between the 5 and 6 pin I beleive.>>its in the book...there SHOULD be a reading on the multimeter.
now take out the .3 and put in the .4mm. Measure the same pins and there should be infinity (meaning NOTHING on the multimeter)...Adjust the TPS till you get that reading in both instances. It takes some time and patients

-matt

 

Any particular setting you set the multimeter to?

 

Any of the OHM settings on the Multimeter....lower setting the better i guess cause the upper OHM settings wont really read anything. ie. 20K

Took me about 20 min to get it right...every time I tightened the screws down, it would mess up the reading by a little and I would start all over. Just be carefull and steady hand when tightening the set screws

-matt

 

Ok guys, car is running. Idle in park is just above 2 and idle in drive is just above 1. Not bad for the first working start. So I should be playing with the tps tomorrow to set idle yeah? Anything else to help lower that?

 

i have found that the throttle cable is most of those problems,high idle .
and something else i learned i have driven with a high idle for a few days and it does settle .

It could be TPS but like matt said DO NOT TOUCH TB set screw.
and there are two ways to set TPS one way is the way matt said and the other way is the voltage way if your TB has two plugs on it you use the first way if you have one plug you use the voltage way.

 

if your idle is still high, and it looks like your using your 4g IACV, try turning that white plastic screw in all the way, that should bring your high idle down. let us know if you get these kinks worked out, i'll be trying to install my 00vi in a couple days.

 

Good job on at least getting the idle stable. I'll be home today if you need to contact me on AIM or call my cell phone.

 

Idle in drive is just about 1. No matter how much I move the tps it does not change idle more than .1. I'm driving the car tomorrow so I'll see if it settles a little.