00VI Complete (engine bay photo)
01-17-2007, 06:19 PM
#1
Old Maxima Legend
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00VI Complete (engine bay photo)
Well for the most part im done with the 00VI install. Had a few issues pop up that made it swap take ages. Feels good to have this much done. The EU install and tune will complete the project.
Next project is transmission, this old 5 speed has about made its last shift !
Next project is transmission, this old 5 speed has about made its last shift !
Last edited by Ceasars Chariot; 12-08-2007 at 03:41 AM.
01-17-2007, 07:01 PM
#4
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well the car is still about the same, hard to tell, running rich might be slowing me down but cant tell. feels about the same.
did anyone notice your intake whistling louder after the swap ?
did anyone notice your intake whistling louder after the swap ?
01-17-2007, 07:03 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
well the car is still about the same, hard to tell, running rich might be slowing me down but cant tell. feels about the same.
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
did anyone notice your intake whistling louder after the swap ?
01-17-2007, 07:38 PM
#12
Looks good, i'm about to start my swap in another 2 weeks, and i know as much as you did when you started(i followed your install)! Hopefully its not as complicated as it seems to be. If you have some main pointers that i can miss, please let me know!
01-17-2007, 08:12 PM
#13
I'm glad you got everything done. The Engine looks very clean. What type of filter connection is that?
When I put mine on I definitely felt a noticeable gain. It pulled hard and it no longer felt like I was hitting a wall when I reved high.
When I put mine on I definitely felt a noticeable gain. It pulled hard and it no longer felt like I was hitting a wall when I reved high.
01-17-2007, 09:08 PM
#15
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funny thing is that it isnt that hard once you have done it. but combining no mechanical experience and starting on the project it was confusing. i learned quite a bit on this one. on another note, im not sure if i have transmission woes fixing to hit or not. will put up the video in a few. (scratching head) should you be able to put a flat head screwdriver up in a manual transmission on the bottom part that faces the ground, rofl !
Warning: sub-novice wanna be mechanic at work again ?
edit: in saying that my OOVI project might be at an end
Warning: sub-novice wanna be mechanic at work again ?
edit: in saying that my OOVI project might be at an end
01-17-2007, 09:33 PM
#17
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o did anyone see the two bolts in the front of the UIM, novice at work, stripped two out, by tightening them up to much, sorry thing was it stripped out the thread in the LIM. So the fix was to use longer bolts/thread pattern and tighten up past the part I trashed, hey live and learn.
we removed all the egr stuff and blocked it all off, removed cruise control, that was around 8-9 lbs of weight.
the boost sensor and that bracket is still a thorn in my side, never can find a place to hide it , have it cable tied to some other stuff.
we removed all the egr stuff and blocked it all off, removed cruise control, that was around 8-9 lbs of weight.
the boost sensor and that bracket is still a thorn in my side, never can find a place to hide it , have it cable tied to some other stuff.
01-17-2007, 09:34 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by Jason R
do you got a longer bolt going through the IACV and the adapter plate and screwing into that bolt hole on the manifold there?
01-17-2007, 09:38 PM
#19
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crappy photo, but shows the egr stuff we removed, cruise control and the evap purge control valve. from what i understand you can remove it as long as you have a vacuum hose somewhere left open. i have no idea if i have one open or not ? lol
01-17-2007, 09:59 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by speed racer
What type of filter connection is that?
When I put mine on I definitely felt a noticeable gain. It pulled hard and it no longer felt like I was hitting a wall when I reved high.
When I put mine on I definitely felt a noticeable gain. It pulled hard and it no longer felt like I was hitting a wall when I reved high.
yeah i still hit that wall, although it doesnt feel quite as bad but its still there. will have to race without the EU this next meet, bummer. with the way i have the iacv mounted going to get creative on tieing that piece open.
01-17-2007, 10:09 PM
#21
Looks good. Your engine bay is so clean. I agree with you tho, I too am hitting that wall. But I have some other issues at hand. TPS is being a real b!tch and causing major tranny problems still. I'll post some pics of my install soon too. Congrats again.
01-18-2007, 08:29 AM
#23
I was talking about the air filter.
When I first did the swap I knew I had to tune. The feeling of hitting the wall could also be attributed to bigger injectors. Your going to have flat spots. After my slight tune it wasn't that noticeable but I still felt it.
Once I put in my Wideband in this weekend, than I'm going to really get into the tuning aspect.
When I first did the swap I knew I had to tune. The feeling of hitting the wall could also be attributed to bigger injectors. Your going to have flat spots. After my slight tune it wasn't that noticeable but I still felt it.
Once I put in my Wideband in this weekend, than I'm going to really get into the tuning aspect.
01-18-2007, 09:22 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
well the car is still about the same, hard to tell, running rich might be slowing me down but cant tell. feels about the same.
did anyone notice your intake whistling louder after the swap ?
did anyone notice your intake whistling louder after the swap ?
01-18-2007, 01:14 PM
#26
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
jason i sure do ! we thought it worked quite well. seem ok to you ?
looks good to me. you didn't have to extend the wiring harness for the IACV did you? did you use the '00 rear valve cover?
01-18-2007, 04:27 PM
#28
ceasar you should try to find a older 4th gen ecu from new zealand or a 95 max ecu .
I got one and put it in my 96 and it allowed me to strip alot of junk off my car with 0 cels.
the MAP junk i trashed it as with the EVAP and EGR and other things a cant remember 0 cels from this stuff removed
95 ecu doesnt read this stuff,except for the EGR and i thin k it even helps alot with keeping those CELs away also.
95 ecu is good for WR, i have been taking varius wires off my car that arent needed anymore and it cleans the areas they come from up.
Ive also been measuring how many foot of wire ive taking out of my car so far for sh$ts and giggles.
I got one and put it in my 96 and it allowed me to strip alot of junk off my car with 0 cels.
the MAP junk i trashed it as with the EVAP and EGR and other things a cant remember 0 cels from this stuff removed
95 ecu doesnt read this stuff,except for the EGR and i thin k it even helps alot with keeping those CELs away also.
95 ecu is good for WR, i have been taking varius wires off my car that arent needed anymore and it cleans the areas they come from up.
Ive also been measuring how many foot of wire ive taking out of my car so far for sh$ts and giggles.
01-18-2007, 05:05 PM
#29
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yeah, well i checked my codes today. this is what the 97 is reading
0902 - downstream o2 sensor heater or or circuit fault (thinking this is my rear o2 sensor (its plugged in but the wire is cut)
1302 - manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve or circuit fault ( no idea ? )
funny thing is, that it still recognizes i have the rear o2 sensor messed up, ecu just chose to give another code, and my vehicle speed sensor is no good, but its not showing up as a code right now, i took it to 7000 rpms on the drive home on stock ecu, now that cant be right ? lol !
0902 - downstream o2 sensor heater or or circuit fault (thinking this is my rear o2 sensor (its plugged in but the wire is cut)
1302 - manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve or circuit fault ( no idea ? )
funny thing is, that it still recognizes i have the rear o2 sensor messed up, ecu just chose to give another code, and my vehicle speed sensor is no good, but its not showing up as a code right now, i took it to 7000 rpms on the drive home on stock ecu, now that cant be right ? lol !
01-19-2007, 09:43 AM
#32
0902 - downstream o2 sensor heater or or circuit fault (thinking this is my rear o2 sense its plugged in but the wire is cut
1302 - manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve or circuit fault ( no idea ? )
1302 - manifold absolute pressure solenoid valve or circuit fault ( no idea ? )
1302 is the MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve or the "Boost Sensor". Either ignore it or you can try some resistors.
01-19-2007, 11:27 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by vipervadim
Caesar great to see you are almost done 
did you have the Swirl Valves in the Lower Intake Manifold?
did you remove them?
did you have the Swirl Valves in the Lower Intake Manifold?
did you remove them?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=498379&page=3
01-19-2007, 12:41 PM
#36
Ceasar, congrats on the install. It's time to pay some old dues, dont' you think? LOL. 
Nah, seriously. that's some nice installs you're doing right there. You mentioned that you have the Map/Baro code, and your car is a 97. That reminds me of the same problem with my GF's 97 maxima also. It was because I broke the plastic needle hose tube and it didn't get vacuum after all. By looking at your engine bay area, I cannot locate that baro/map sensor at all. It is a thing called boost sensor on the intake scoop that hooks up at the grill area of the stock intake assembly. You know what I"m talking about, right? If you can retrack back to your intake scoop, and find that sensor, you'd just have to hook it back up and connect a vacuum tube to it, and reset it. The CEL light for that thing won't come back up again. Hope that helps.
-Peter-
Nah, seriously. that's some nice installs you're doing right there. You mentioned that you have the Map/Baro code, and your car is a 97. That reminds me of the same problem with my GF's 97 maxima also. It was because I broke the plastic needle hose tube and it didn't get vacuum after all. By looking at your engine bay area, I cannot locate that baro/map sensor at all. It is a thing called boost sensor on the intake scoop that hooks up at the grill area of the stock intake assembly. You know what I"m talking about, right? If you can retrack back to your intake scoop, and find that sensor, you'd just have to hook it back up and connect a vacuum tube to it, and reset it. The CEL light for that thing won't come back up again. Hope that helps.
-Peter-
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