I've been asking around on different threads the last month about this but its lead to dead ends, so Im just going to ask straight out.

It seems OBX has a new design for their headers.

These being the old ones --> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-9...spagenameZWDVW
Notice the t-connection of the rear header onto the downpipe. This isnt a Y-pipe, its a "T-pipe". These are the ones that were imfamous for their fitment issues that one would have to modify the rear engine mount for them to fit. And in Tylley's case, modified it to the point that it was too weak to handle the output of one of his many turbo motors and he broke the mount. Not only that but that T connection is guaranteed to hamper and disturb the flow of exhaust gasses.

Now, notice these OBX headers --> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...spagenameZWDVW
These seem to have slightly smoother bends, but the more important difference is that the "T" is gone. The rear header actually has a "Y" juncture to the downpipe. Being that these have primaries that are very similar in length to those of HS and Cattman (refer to the new Sticky... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=512293), and now that they have a "Y"-pipe, the only thing thats keeping them back is that they are not equal length, but for $200 less than HS, and over $500 less than Cattman, who's to complain?

What I've been trying to find out is, has anyone installed one of these new OBX headers with the "Y"-Pipe. And if so, did you have any fitment issues?

Thanks in advance,

Eddy

 

Well i hope this new Design will produce as much power as the cattman and Hotshots, but i dont know anybody that can prove it here.. This goes back from the generic header threads, whos gonna be the Guinea pig?

 

Still not equal length.

By definition, I don't think the Hottshots or Cattmans are true equal length, but they're much closer than either of those pictured items.

For the price though. You never know. I'll admit, they're good for the price, but not sure about the power gains.

 

The primaries are unequal, the secondaries (down pipes) seem equal length on the Cattman and HS. But w/e we gotta work with what we have available to us, the engineer way .

But yea this is exactly why Im looking into these headers. They might not be equal length, but for the price difference, if they make say 3whp less than the HS or Cattman, blah to that! Advance the timing 1* and you just made up the power difference, lol (just exaggerating, but you guys get my drift).

nismo-max, i think I may just have to be this guinea pig. Im sure these OBXs will make more power than a stock shorty header+ y-pipe, just for the fact of the long primaries. Real questions are,

Will I need to modify anything to make them fit like the previous design?

and

Exactly how much power will they make over stock headers?

 

It's more a difference of where the power will be delivered. And of course, add 1* there, and then add the same to the CM/HS equipped car... Profit?

As far as how much more . You said it, engineer your way to optimize your personal set-up.

Anyway, they have to be better than stockers.

 

Whenever you use longer primaries your setup is focused more on the top end aspect. It is more free flowing than the shorty headers as explained by vipervadim. The new design was able to fix most of its problems and I'm sure they fixed the problem with the rear motor mount. You can't go wrong for the price.

I also think the maximum HP loss would not be more than 3 hp like you said.

 

I agree. I only used the 3whp # as figurative speech to make scenario. But yea. I guess I'll have to order these OBXs and try them out sometime next month.

 

There's more that determines how much power a particular header set will make than just primary tube length. 3-1 and 2-1 collector design is important as well.

 

Strike a deal with OBX. If you get a good dyno with them then *sniff sniff* ... what's that smell ... ohhhhh discounted group deal

I think TONS of Maxima owners would jump on them like a fat kid on cupcakes if the headers provided gains like cattman. We will have to see if that outlet is killer or not.

... don't forget the precious sound clips either ... on preferably stock cat-back.

One question ... these headers are two piece meaning that the rear part is permenately attached. Wouldn't this cause major hell in the event that exhaust work is needed on a car with this on ... or maybe even the removal of the exhaust for a tranny drop?

 

JESUS YOU SIG IS LONG! LOL

Well I desided to get these headers prior to catback, so yea you'll have a soundclip on stock catback, with 3.5 though. Honestly you dont need to remove your exhaust to drop/ install a tranny, it just makes it slightly easier cus of the better angle. But from my experience, you spend more time removing and installing x-member and exhaust to get that angle than the added time it takes to remove/ install the tranny with the engine at normal angle, lol.

The only time I see these headers being a PITA for me is if I need to remove my oil pan for some reason. So beside new custom spec'd intake cam adpaters and ARP rod bolts, that should be my last time having to remove my oil pan in hopefully a very long time, lol.

 

Funny - I ordered a set of these new OBX headers last week. Gonna have some work done on them to blend into my 3 inch Warpspeed plumbing, but I like the long-tube collectors, so I'm keeping those parts.

And about this comment from Scrhale:
"One question ... these headers are two piece meaning that the rear part is permenately attached. Wouldn't this cause major hell in the event that exhaust work is needed on a car with this on ... or maybe even the removal of the exhaust for a tranny drop?"

We are going to try to insert a flange in the rear collector plumbing, like the front, and attach both front and rear to the Warpspeed plumbing. Until the shop has parts in hand, that's where the plan is now....

 

Sig changed

I can't wait to hear the sound clips.

Grey ... what kind of work are you getting done to them?

 

The plan is to cut off the collectors from the supplied Y-pipe and shorty flex, connect each to one of the 2" warpspeed downpipes to merge back into the 3" flex. And add a 3" cutout, if I can keep ground clearance.....

Warpspeed:



OBX:



Anyway, it looked like a good idea at the time - it's been a long time since I made headers from scratch.....
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Oh snap, i think you are on to what I had in mind Harold! I wonder if once you're done with this (assuming it can be done, which looks simple enough from the pictures) if Dallas could make an exact copy of this "WSP OBX-to-X" adapter but leading into a 2.5" pipe.

I guess when the time comes we shall see.

OT- Hey also, I've been dalaying the install of "the device". I went to dyno on thrusday and the track on friday (both results are up their respective forum). But hopefully I will get around to it soon, midterms are this week.

 

"Great minds.." and all that, eh? I'm glad it makes sense to someone else. Until you have parts in hand, it's still just wishful thinking.

Good luck on getting Dallas to build anything else for the 4th gen Maximas - I think he has moved on to bigger and better. Our market is just too small, and everyone wants it cheap.

I think I'll do a good photo history of whatever happens - my Warpspeed collection still comes in handy, and I'll have something to share with others.

Yup, school comes first - I need you young guys working in good jobs, to pay my Social Security!

 

Hey gut check this thread out. Vadim did a side by side of the different headers for our cars. It's also a sticky here on the org.

http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=20592

 

yea I noticed that, I posted in it. Thanks though that is an awesome link

 

hey for those who purchased these yet, have u installed them?

 

So far I only know of Grey99max having bought them, but he's hacking them onto his 3" Wsp collector, so we cant really say anything about their installment as is.

 

Has anybody installed these yet... any updates?

 

None from my camp. Trying to get other things out of the way first before going into the headers.

 

Not me - I'm going to the custom shop this week, to make a plan on how to do this thing. It won't be simple or cheap. But it should be educational.

 

I did take my Max and the OBX headers to the "muffler shop". Two race cars in the parking spaces up front, and a couple of 10-lb NOS bottles on the floor next to the service desk. I'm home!

The owner put the car up on the rack to see the lay of the land, and measured out the headers. He came up with a good plan - leave everything stock on the OBX assenbly, up to the part where the two downpipes come together into one collector and become the main pipe with a flex section bolting to the cat. The "main pipe" is way too small. He liked the quality of the collectors and the flanges. He was less impressed about where OBX forgot to finish the EGR welds on the rear header.

He said he thought the best approach would be to remove the main pipe up to where the two downpipes come together, build a new main pipe starting with a new 2-pipe collector merging into a new 3" pipe and 3" Turbo flex section (new technology flex) and mating to the 3" hi-flow cat in the car. That's the good part - that would cost about $200 - if the headers are on the car. If not, he wants to charge the Nissan manual's flatrate hours to change out the two exhaust manifolds. That's about $600.

To install the OBX completely and build the new collector and flex will be $837.00. That's probably not going to happen. I'll shop around and see if another shop can pull the manifolds - I know that's not easy with the engine in the car.

Maybe I can remove those manifolds myself - but there isn't much room, especially in the back, and those nuts have been on the manifold studs for 90,000 miles.
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With the right tools, it's not too difficult. Drop the crossmember and the motor mounts, and that should give you some good room to work with. Also, you might need to pull your IM to have better access to your EGR port.

 

OK - why the crossmember? and why the motor mounts? I went to the garage and pulled the front exhaust manifold off a donor engine in about 10 minutes, including looking for a 10mm and 14mm socket. A little WD40 on the studs and they came loose easily. Of course, the engine was sitting on a roll-around, so everything is exposed. The front header clears the front motor mount easily.

If I took the 3" y-pipe off completely, which is very obvious on this car (woops - I didn't eyeball the O2 sensors), then the EGR has to be disconnected - unbolted with a long wrench, cut, pulled out by the roots 'cause it ain't going back in, then both manifolds need to be unbolted. Is there a problem getting them down and out ??

Since I've never done this and don't know anyone who has (around here), I'm looking for an ed-ducation on header installation.
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Goalikeg meant to say to remove the rear mount and its braket to the block, along with the x-member. Its for the removal of the rear manifold. The motor mounts braket will get into the way of the nuts on Cyl5 and maybe cyl3 ports.

For the front all you really need to do it remove the fan shroud to give you some extra room. That one is cake.

Orrrr, you could come to the SW of Miami-Dade County and we can do it fro ya j/k lol

 

Removing the IM isn't necessary to remove the rear exhaust manifold.

 

Thanks to you and Goalikeg - and nismology - for the details on pulling the manifolds. The x-member has been out a couple of times, so those bolts should come loose, thanks to two engine swaps by my shop. And yes, I've stopped melting valves with this engine.

It sounds doable with the tools I've got, but my garage space is so tight I can't get under the car from either side - just the front or back, depending on which way I park. I'll think this over a bit longer - no rush - the spring rains have begun.

If I showed up in the SW of Miami-Dade County, I'm sure your crew would help, but then you would bust my azz in some races as payment, right?

P.S. - a side note - I noticed that the boltholes on the OBX flanges are much larger on the two outside ports compared to the center port. This is true of both the front and rear headers. The front one mated right up to the donor engine I was playing with. The header could then rock from side-to-side a little. I wonder if OBX did this to make installation easier?
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Eddy I prefer to have everything out of the way, and I also find it easier to install the crossmember back on the car by taking both motor mounts off still attached to the crossmember. That is just my preference, but it can be done like you do too. I just like having less bolts to deal with.

It's a hell of a lot easier to get to the EGR port. Shaddap.

BTW, get your car to my damn garage so I can detail it, for the love of god!

 

Didn't someone dyno these awhile back and they actually lost power???

 

I need to yank out the MEVI to port it for the Pathy TB/spacer anyway.... I have this nifty Harbor Freight die grinder, and I ground out part of the TB opening on a USIM, so I know it works...
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These are brand new, no one has dyno'd them yet.