I just finished my 00VI swap on my 95 GXE but it is running very rough. I am thinking I do not have all the vacuum lines hooked up correctly or I am blocking off something that should not be blocked. My set up is a fifth gen LIM, a fifth gen rear valve cover, Stephen Max adapter plates for the TB and the IACV. Currently I am running the IACV line to where the PCV valve should hook to the top of the upper manifold, and I am letting the PCV Vavle vent into the engine bay. The car is running rough, and I keep pulling these two codes. P1320 Manufacturer controlled ignition system or Misfire, and P0325 Knock Sensor....what could be causing this? I assume that the knock sensor code is tripping since the car is running so rough. Also while the car is running I hear a hissing/whistling noise (simmilar but not as loud as when a tea kettle's water starts boiling). Does anyone have any ideas? What do I have hooked up wrong? Let me know if you need me to take more pictures. Thanks for any advice.

 

Couple pointers for you...

- the hissing noise doesnt necessarily mean a vacuum leak. Mine has always hissed a little - i think it has to do with the EGR tube location in the manifold and the fact that i dont use the restrictor plate that goes between the TB and manifold, and using a cone filter.
- vacuum leak often causes high idle. can you get a vacuum gage on there?

things that typically go wrong - injector grounds bad connection, or maybe you have a bad coil since you switched over to 5th gens. Those would be likely to cause the misfire code.

 

Explain a bit more what its doing ?? Is this on start up, while cold, while warm ?? Have you drivin it at all yet ?? Does it stall out, wheres it ideling ??

-matt

 

I know it doesn't necessarily make sense, but hook the PCV up to the manifold. That caused a vacuum leak for me at one point when mine came unhooked. I realize some people even just put filters on or something sometimes, but try it.

 

Its all the time. I have driven the car and its down on power and running like its missing. The engine really shakes when its idling, but it does not seem as if it will die out. I have extra coils but they are fourth gen coils, is that the next step I should take? As you can see in one of my pictures I posted my injector ground. its the Blue 8 gauge wire that is running from the injector ground wires over to the timing chain cover. When i have driven cars that have felt like this in the past I was having an issue with a spark plug wire arching.

The car has a warm idle of around 800 rpm

 

I can do that and hook it up to the stock fifth gen location, but then where should I hook up the IACV?

 

I had this problem. I cheaped on out LIM gaskets. Make sure your gaskets are nice, and cover them with a layer of gasket maker(silicone) on top and bottom side. Also make sure no debris from old gaskets is on LIM. Follow the correct bolt tighting pattern as well. Let me know how it works out when you decide to do this.

 

Given your IACV setup and hoses, leave the IACV as it sits. Route the PCV hose around to the back of the manifold and use that port (on the "side" of the throttlebody neck). Basically you'll have it set up as the reverse of what most people with remote-mounted A32 IACV's do, but it should work exactly the same.

If curing the open PCV hose doesn't calm your engine down, I'd suggest checking your gaskets again like 4x4max suggested.

 

Where do most people hook up the IACV and the PCV hoses (since I am doing it reverse)? Everything is just kinda sitting there right now so it would not be hard to move anything. I know the LIM is tight, but I did re use the old metal gaskets and I did not add any silicone to the gaskets. I would rather figure out if its something with my vacuum set up or my coils before I take the manifold off again.

**also I tried spraying carb/choke cleaner around on the manifold trying to find vacuum leaks and I could not get the engine to race no matter where I sprayed.

 

Exactly as "reverse" implies, most people do it flipped around from what I told you: IACV going into the "back" of the manifold (the side of the throttlebody neck) and the PCV going into the top of the manifold where your IACV is currently going into. If you check out the 00VI section of my site there's a whole page dedicated to vacuum stuff.

 

i also have a rough idle, but i swapped the whole de-k motor in. It very well could be the lower intake manifold, because i reused the old gasket after i took out the swirl valves so maybe that is the cause of a rough idle.

 

how does your car run rought though? Mine is running like crap too, its not just a rough idle. The car runs like it is missing. When I am driving it defiently fells down on power.

 

ok gotcha. Currently the nipple on manifod neck is plugged. I have the factory PCV valve set up I just need the proper hose to fit it. Is the dealer the only place to get the proper hose, would a parts store have one?

 

exactly how my car felt

 

I just put High temp copper Gasket RTV on the LIM gaskets(the orange one). I tightened everything back up and I am leaving it sitting for a few hours. I wiped the excess that squeezed out of the intake runners. I will put everything back together this evening and report back. Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

 

oh, something I forgot to mention. The fitting on the back of the manifold neck that you guys said most people hook there IACV to is cut off and JB welded over. So how should I hook up the PCV and IACV? Can I use the same line? And "T" into it to hook PCV line to the IACV line? Or will the PCV cause the IACV to go nuts? What should I do?

 

Drill out the JB-welded hole or drill a whole new hole and put a fitting in.

 

ok, so I put every thing back together again, and started the car....same thing...still running like crap so while the car was running I started unplugging the coils one at a time. i was trying to figure out which cylinder was giving me a problem since I had pretty much re sealed everything. I unplugged cylinder 2 and nothing changed, so I tried a few of the others just to make sure it would change the way the engine ran, and sure enough it did. So I turned the engine off and replaced the coil with a fourth gen coil. I cranked the car back up and now it purrs like a kitten....its running very smooth now. I still have not hooked up the wires to activate the lower runners at higher RPMs and the car already feels better down low and in the mid range than it ever did. I still have some questions though. I ordered the PCV valve hose today from the dealership so that should be in this week, but I still do not know where to hook everything up, I am out of connection points. Can I not "T" the IACV line into the brake booster line? If you guys do suggest to put another fitting on the manifold for the IACV or PCV where can I buy those fittings? I looked at advanced and really did not see much I thought would work.

Now that I have the car running right I want to hook up my switch to the VIAS (I think thats what its called...if not I am talking about the thing that switches the runners). I am going to control the VIAS with my VAFCII controller. I have a wire run to the engine bay but I need to know which wire to hook it to. I have two wires hanging down from a plug on the VIAS, which wire do I hook the vtec wire to? Is the other wire a ground?

Thanks for any help, I would like to try to get to the dyno this weekend if I can get everything sorted out before the weekend.

***also, is any running fourth gen coils on the fifth gen rear valve cover? If so how are you holding them down? The bolt holes do not line up on the fouth gen coils for the 5th gen rear valve cover.

 

I wouldnt touch the break booster line.

All you do is buy a nipple with threads on it and get a drill and tap. Drill with the correct drill bit and thread into your manifold. Put some thread sealer on the threads of the nippler and turn it into the manifold. Then use that for your IACV. I wouldnt go T-ing anything into the PCV since gas vapors and oil vapors go through that line while you drive.

Get a 5th gen coil.

-matt

 

where should I get a fitting that will be sturdy enough? Also do you remember the size it needs to be? Should I go to lowes and look at the brass fittings?

Do you know what wires I hook to the VAIS wires?

 

Pick something up at a hardware store, Lowe's, Ace, etc.

I don't know enough about the V-AFC to know whether it provides a ground or 12v for the signal. Figure out which (or maybe someone will chime in that knows) and hook it up to the appropriate wire, and the other wire on the switch to it's corresponding need (say V-AFC provides ground, hook it to the RIGHT wire on the switch, then provide a 12v source to the LEFT wire).
Order a 5th gen coil ASAP. I ran 4th gen rear coils on a 5th gen rear cover for a couple months and it worked alright, but it got a whole lot better contact and resulted in a slightly smoother engine with the properly bolted down 5th gen coils.

 

Any brass fitting will work. Get the size that has a barbed end that matches in size to the hose you will be using (make sure it's the barbed end that matches in size...won't do you any good if you're matching up to the threaded side).

 

the red wire you have coiled up in the engine bay coming from the VAFC hooks up to the red wire on the plug for the VIAS and you can ground the other wire to that 8 gauge wire you're using.

sorry I didn't have time to see that the car was running smoothly before you left.

 

I picked up a few 3/8's brass fitting yesterday from lowes so hopefully I can make something work with those for the IACV. I ordered the stock PCV valve hose so I can hook up the PCV valve set up the way it is suposed to be set up when that comes into the dealership. I will also test out my soldering skills on the two wires to activate the VIAS when i get a chance to work on the car again. Thanks for everyones help so far.

Also I have been checking my codes a few times a day and my scanner is not allowing me to clear one code...its the knock sensor code. When I tell it to "erase" it comes back and says codes have been erased...one code remains. Does this mean that my knock sensor is compleatley crapped out?

 

Same problem happened to one of my friend's car, it was a bad coilpack.
try to interchange the rear coilpacks. my guess

 

Thanks for the advice, but I had already posted that's what my problem was

I just put a new knock sensor in the car, and re routed my IACV line to the rear of the plenum neck, and I hooked the PCV in the factory locations. The car has a knock sensor code that will not clear out of my scanner even after I replaced it. What could this be? I have not driven the car but I replaced the sensor and tried erasing the code twice but it is still there. I am also getting a cold start problem too. It has gotten colder here over the past few days and if the car sits over night, when I go to crank it in the morning it will die unless I give it some gas for about 10 seconds...is this a common problem?

 

Yes it is a common issue since almost all the guys that done the swap reported cold start issues. They say to hold the gas and all will be fine.
I thinkit is a iacv voltage range issue. My point of view...

 

I've never had this problem

 

The cold start thing really is not a big deal. It does bother me that the knock sensor code will not clear though. What could be causing that? Again, I just put in a brand new knock sensor.