Vq35de(350z) cams in a Vq30de
#1
Vq35de(350z) cams in a Vq30de
Well I searched and saw maybe one thread but nothing was actually mentioned on how to do it. I have a set here and would look to install them when I get the heads ported and polished.
#3
Get the adapters from stephenmax and get started. At bit more complixated that I thought, I think you need to drop the engine to remove the timing cover because of the porky passenger engine mount.
#4
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You dont need to drop the engine to put cams in. Remove the mount, remove the front two bolts of the crossmember, lower it, remove all accesories, and pull the front timing cover off (And remember theres 3 bolts INSIDE the oil pan). Ive done it twice in my bros car.
I have some of Stephen maxs adaptors in my hands and do not trust them for reliability. I dont think they are strong enough and I would not risk it. Im pretty sure if something goes wrong the valves might hit the pistons. And you dont want that to happen to you when youre on a backroad getting chased by cannibal hillbillies...
I have some of Stephen maxs adaptors in my hands and do not trust them for reliability. I dont think they are strong enough and I would not risk it. Im pretty sure if something goes wrong the valves might hit the pistons. And you dont want that to happen to you when youre on a backroad getting chased by cannibal hillbillies...
#5
check the FSM on camshaft installation FIRST..
You will be ripping apart the upper part of the block/heads, valve covers, Timing chain cover, and lower oil pan..
doing it with the engine Inside the engine bay is Crazy.. I know because I did it.. ..the location of 10mm timing cover bolts, the need to un-seal (then re-seal) the outer timing chain cover with RTV is gonna be overkill
taking everything off is not THAT hard.. but when it comes to sealing it after the install... the outer timing chain cover is PURE NIGHTMARE.. ALL because it is VERY Hard to install it correctly without smudging the Necessary Continuous bead of RTV Sealant.. And if you DO smudge it, there will be a bad seal in that particular area (leading to oil leak after the engine is broken in and Pushed). And the engine has to be angled in a certain way to put the outer cover on (the large protruding bolt above the crankshaft IS The reason it is so hard to put the cover on INSIDE the Engine Bay.. It makes you install the cover OVER it before everything is sealed, and there is LIMITED room)..
Setting the timing is actually very easy, just make sure Piston 1 is at TDC, BEFORE you start ripping the motor apart. Then line up the chain with the timing marks..
It is also VERY SMART MAINTENANCE to replace ALL 3 timing chain tensioners, so there is no rattling from the Chain after the Cams are in..
basically not a one day job for an Intermediate installer..
a Novice Installer should not even bother..
Confidence, Patience, and the Ability to Overcome Obstacles as they pop up during install will be KEY.
here's a pic of what you will be dealing with once the outer timing cover is OFF:
good luck
You will be ripping apart the upper part of the block/heads, valve covers, Timing chain cover, and lower oil pan..
doing it with the engine Inside the engine bay is Crazy.. I know because I did it.. ..the location of 10mm timing cover bolts, the need to un-seal (then re-seal) the outer timing chain cover with RTV is gonna be overkill
taking everything off is not THAT hard.. but when it comes to sealing it after the install... the outer timing chain cover is PURE NIGHTMARE.. ALL because it is VERY Hard to install it correctly without smudging the Necessary Continuous bead of RTV Sealant.. And if you DO smudge it, there will be a bad seal in that particular area (leading to oil leak after the engine is broken in and Pushed). And the engine has to be angled in a certain way to put the outer cover on (the large protruding bolt above the crankshaft IS The reason it is so hard to put the cover on INSIDE the Engine Bay.. It makes you install the cover OVER it before everything is sealed, and there is LIMITED room)..
Setting the timing is actually very easy, just make sure Piston 1 is at TDC, BEFORE you start ripping the motor apart. Then line up the chain with the timing marks..
It is also VERY SMART MAINTENANCE to replace ALL 3 timing chain tensioners, so there is no rattling from the Chain after the Cams are in..
basically not a one day job for an Intermediate installer..
a Novice Installer should not even bother..
Confidence, Patience, and the Ability to Overcome Obstacles as they pop up during install will be KEY.
here's a pic of what you will be dealing with once the outer timing cover is OFF:
good luck
#9
Originally Posted by stephenlc
Well I searched and saw maybe one thread but nothing was actually mentioned on how to do it. I have a set here and would look to install them when I get the heads ported and polished.
#12
Umm these are from a 2003 350z, going into a vq30de. And I will most likely be removing the whole engine or just dropping another engine in. Going to be used in a boosted application, they should help a little but with top end since im sticking with the stock rev limit.
#13
Originally Posted by JClaw
You dont need to drop the engine to put cams in. Remove the mount, remove the front two bolts of the crossmember, lower it, remove all accesories, and pull the front timing cover off (And remember theres 3 bolts INSIDE the oil pan). Ive done it twice in my bros car.
I have some of Stephen maxs adaptors in my hands and do not trust them for reliability. I dont think they are strong enough and I would not risk it. Im pretty sure if something goes wrong the valves might hit the pistons. And you dont want that to happen to you when youre on a backroad getting chased by cannibal hillbillies...
I have some of Stephen maxs adaptors in my hands and do not trust them for reliability. I dont think they are strong enough and I would not risk it. Im pretty sure if something goes wrong the valves might hit the pistons. And you dont want that to happen to you when youre on a backroad getting chased by cannibal hillbillies...
#14
Originally Posted by stephenlc
Umm these are from a 2003 350z, going into a vq30de.
#15
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Moot point, but those cams are the same as any other 02+ Maxima. Adding 350z in the title is deceiving.
Engine: VQ35DE (2)
Model Years: 2002-2005 (Maxima, and a slew of others)
CVTC: Intake
Intake__Lift: 9.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 9.5mm
Intake__Duration: 238º
Exhaust_Duration: 240º
Intake_Opens: 6º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 64º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 52º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 8º ATDC
Overlap: 2º
------------------------------------
Engine: VQ35DE (3)
Model Years: 2005 (G35 Coupe, 35th Anniversary 350Z)
CVTC: Intake and Exhaust
Intake__Lift: 10.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 10.5mm
Intake__Duration: 248º
Exhaust_Duration: 248º
Intake_Opens: 2º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 70º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 70º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 2º BTDC
Overlap: -4º
Model Years: 2002-2005 (Maxima, and a slew of others)
CVTC: Intake
Intake__Lift: 9.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 9.5mm
Intake__Duration: 238º
Exhaust_Duration: 240º
Intake_Opens: 6º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 64º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 52º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 8º ATDC
Overlap: 2º
------------------------------------
Engine: VQ35DE (3)
Model Years: 2005 (G35 Coupe, 35th Anniversary 350Z)
CVTC: Intake and Exhaust
Intake__Lift: 10.5mm
Exhaust_Lift: 10.5mm
Intake__Duration: 248º
Exhaust_Duration: 248º
Intake_Opens: 2º ATDC
Intake_Closes: 70º ABDC
Exhaust_Opens: 70º BBDC
Exhaust_Closes: 2º BTDC
Overlap: -4º
#18
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
If anyone is looking for an alternative to adapters, I have spacers left and can drill cams.
Just pm me.
Just pm me.
Originally Posted by MaxBlack97
If anyone is looking for these cams, I have those for sale also. Goodluck on ur project stephenlc, let us know how it turns out.
Anyway planning to make 400 whp+ on 7 lbs of boost.
#19
Originally Posted by stephenlc
I might send them to you, Dude kinda freaked me out about stephen maxs adapters.
Thanks I am really excited i am planning to make a custom intake manifold with a 90 mm q45 throttlebody, has anyone used this throttlebody before? I wonder how I can get the tps to work.
Anyway planning to make 400 whp+ on 7 lbs of boost.
Thanks I am really excited i am planning to make a custom intake manifold with a 90 mm q45 throttlebody, has anyone used this throttlebody before? I wonder how I can get the tps to work.
Anyway planning to make 400 whp+ on 7 lbs of boost.
On one of these 3.5 Pathy minifolds, minus the long runners?
Six individual runners w/butterfiles.....
Of course, this will only bolt to a 3.5 Pathfinder or a 3.0 LIM after shaving long runners, but what a thought, eh ??
.
#21
Originally Posted by stephenlc
Whats wrong with Stephen Maxs cam adaptors?
#32
look whos up and semi sober...
yea... only the rev ups are different.
for a 3.0 you could throw in regular de cams but if you can get some rev ups and toss em in.
yea... only the rev ups are different.
for a 3.0 you could throw in regular de cams but if you can get some rev ups and toss em in.
#35
i guy near me had stephen max adapters and one of them snapped causing his valves to get bent, i just drilled my main cam about a 1/8 inch figured that would be alot stronger and also could you use the rev-up heads from the 350z? my boss suggested that just not sure if hey will work...
#36
i guy near me had stephen max adapters and one of them snapped causing his valves to get bent, i just drilled my main cam about a 1/8 inch figured that would be alot stronger and also could you use the rev-up heads from the 350z? my boss suggested that just not sure if hey will work...
once the adpaters are installed and the bolt is torqued down there is no tension or stress on the dowel pin. So basically once its installed and as long as its not broken once everything is bolted then he should be fine.
you could use the rev up heads. not sure if the heads on the rev up flow better than normal DE heads.
For all the work you'd have to go thru putting rev up heads on your motor, you might as well have some porting work done as you'll need to replace your head gaskets and head bolts etc...
#37
yah my boss swears they flow alot better just trying to find some proof that they do...and as for the adapters I asked the kid if he torqued the bolts and he swears he did, i can see that they cant be that strong but if you torqued the bolts they shouldnt move his intake cam spun free and bent the valve in bank 2 i believe (closest to radiator) probably wasnt tight enough but drilling my cam was easy and seemed much stronger i didnt want to chance it
#39
yah my boss swears they flow alot better just trying to find some proof that they do...and as for the adapters I asked the kid if he torqued the bolts and he swears he did, i can see that they cant be that strong but if you torqued the bolts they shouldnt move his intake cam spun free and bent the valve in bank 2 i believe (closest to radiator) probably wasnt tight enough but drilling my cam was easy and seemed much stronger i didnt want to chance it
Did he explain how it is much better or proof? as far as memory serves the rev up made more power from a slighty better ecu tune, better cams and slightly better cam timing. Aside from that all the other components, internals, intake etc are the same. Actually i think the intake manifold has shorter runners? or longer?
damn I lost my fast ages ago... wish i could find a new up to date version.