I unloaded my car off the trailer Saturday and began the job of hooking everything back up. Got 'er dun this afternoon, and after fumbling through a few things that still needed hooking up, I got it started!

Video:
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t=Dscn2527.flv

Saying goodbye to my MEVI:
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...t=Dscn2529.flv

I filled the auto w/4 1/2 qts of Mobil1, and it seems fine.

I'm going for a ride tonight. We shall see.



PS. The last engine blew at the strip: When the engine was yanked last week, my guy noticed the intake filter was puffed up - exploded.

You know how the MAF has a screen on one end?
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2512.jpg

Well, the air filter looked like this:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2513.jpg

With the screen blown down into it:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2514.jpg

But - the MAF still works. I have a spare, but I did a temp install of the original and it seems to work fine. I checked it with a multimeter, and both MAFs measured the same, so I tried the screen-less MAF. The 3.5 is running on it now. Now I need a new air filter....

 

My maf and filter looked the same when I had a nitrous backfire.

 

I think it was caused by sucking nitrous into the crankcase when the piston collapsed - I got at least three loud explosions from the car before I let up on the spray.

You gotta admit, that's a weird place to find the MAF screen.

 

It is. I am now 100% sure you had preignition and your nitrous backfired.

 

w000h0000!!! go grey!!!!!!!

Congratulations! Please come back with your ubber reports

 

Great stuff, the bouncy idle at times, is that because of the cams? its cool lol

 

Well, it's cammed up for sure, but I've still got to adjust a million things, like the TPS settings and connect the remaining sensors. No IACV either.

There is a definite lope when I get it warmed up and idling around 800. Heh.

Funny - it wouldn't start at first ( OH SH*T!) and there was no spark,but when I plugged in the MAP sensor from the old engine, it started right up. I connected some other stuff, but the EGR sensor and solenoids are on the list still. Probably other things as well.

I did take it out for a drive last night, but kinda around the block. Transmission works fine, engine warms OK, Headlights work ! , and I can really feel the extra torque at low speeds, even with the 2800 stall converter. And I started it this morning before leaving for work, and it fired right up at 38* outside temp -which is where the car was sitting. That's good - I had to baby it for a minute or so before it would idle by itself, but that's expected.

I'll swap in my spare MAF and see how that goes - I can't believe the original MAF even works after the screen blow-out...

Stiil,

 

just curious but what did you do for your cam break in? what i am reading is 30 mins above 1500rpms...

 

Cam manufacturers usually have specific instructions but most are usually something like 20 mins at 2000 rpm.

 

yeah thats what my brother said, 20 mins at 2000... i got the 1500 for 30 mins off of cranes website

 

Break-in? I was gonna go out and spray it for break-in....

Those cams came with a coating on the lobes, so they shouldn't require break-in, right?

OK - I was just planning on some gentle highway driving, like to Kansas City and back, which is about 2 hours flight time. Then I'll change the oil and filter to get rid of all the misc. chunks I left in the engine.

 

I connected up the EGR temp sensor and replaced the blown-out MAF with my spare, and now it runs mucho better! After topping up the engine and tranny Mobil1 levels, I took it for a ride to the lickker store and the gas station.

Went out on the highway and tried the cruise - it works! It pulls hard from a stop now - nothing like a 3.0 - much more like my wife's '04 maxima. Power comes on early and it really like to rev - but I didn't push it tonight - well, maybe once, but with 225/55/16 BFGs, all I got was tire spin.

More to do, but the loping idle makes it all worth-while.

 

Trader to use 3.0 guys. At least we still have Dandymax.

 

I'm fairly certain that the break in is what was said,
the coating was either assembly lube or something of the sort...

 

I think I've taken care of the cams break-in thing. I went out tonight and let 'er eat through 1st and 2nd gears. It's like punching a big-block Chevy - the car gets through 1st gear in a heartbeat, hits fuel-cut before going into 2nd, and pulls to 80MPH in a very short time.

The car feels like it's twisting in first gear while spinning and sliding around (street, remember?) the road, bangs 2nd, then hits the afterburner. Without nitrous. I really like this motor.

This upgrade is gonna take a while to figure out, and I was using the stock automatic shifting points - no pressure boost. Whew.

 

man... this makes me want to swap my new motor in asap...lol

 

Wow man, that sounds great. Your drop resistor mod is still active when doing these runs right? Be careful how you drive at part throttle, since now you have more part throttle power (where the drop resistor mod is not being used and can risk a slip and dead tranny).

Congrats, awesome to see another auto 3.5

 

Oh, it's worth all the work and worry..... Oh, yeah..

 

Nope - no DR mod hooked up right now. Don't worry - I know about automatics, remember? Besides, I've got a spare VLSD for when I trash the 13.158 ET VLSD. It seems fine -at the moment. I don't usually scr*w around on the street, but I needed to try this beast.

And it's now a 3.5 auto.. Remember me?

 

lol edited my post sorry, im used to typing 3.0 haha

 

It's all good..... I'm not used to this 3.5 stuff yet. Yet...

I've got a short stub of an air intake and the custom OBX headers connected to the up-cammed 3.5. It can breathe purty well, I'd say. Plus it idles niicceeee....

 

yeah i hope so...i am coming from a 3.5 and going to a cammed 3.5 (JWT C-2 Race grind baby) so i guess it will be different, but not that different... i guess we will see....

i better get some nice idle lope lol... BTW, did you bump you idle up? i saw jwt and others recommending putting the target idle at 850...

 

Yes I did - 800 RPMs is the absolute minimum now, for these S1 clone cams. 900 is better. And they lope

 

Glad to see the car is back in action grey! Sucks it's the end of October already though There is a chance I may have some tricks up my sleeve over the winter, though

 

I got mine idling at 650 nicely...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Cxsxw8R3DLA

 

It ain't over in Kansas CIty 'til December. If the suns shines, it's over 40*F, and the creek don't rise, they'll be racing at KCIR on Sunday afternoons in November!



What you doin' Tatanko? Buyin' a Chevy?

 

[kidding] I bet you set your TPS. Someday I must learn the mystic secrets of EU tuning, as well. Of course, you still have that small 3.0 as well - maybe little motors idle easier. [/end kidding].



[serious] man, if you work the same magic on a 3.5 as you did to that poor 3.0, well, you can sell tickets to that track outing. [/serious]

 

My TPS setting is as per stock/FSM, no trickery there, in fact it should idle worse with a light flywheel, but the key is the EU adjustments and cam timing somewhat too...


Right now the plan is to put the 3.5 in during the dog days of next summer (say July or so). Or maybe a little earlier depending on what else I feel like doing (or don't) to this 3L. But in the mean time, the DEK should go faster yet, maybe even this weekend if the weather holds... That 12.8 was not by any means the apex, I had a lot of issues that day and overall it was a crappy day even though I managed to hit 12's a couple runs.

BTW I better see at LEAST low 12's out of your cammed 3.5 on spray...

 

Oh no, this is all Maxima business. I intend to have more area under the curve for next spring, though. That includes a new intake setup, some revisions to my manifold, some A/F tuning, a CRAPLOAD of maintenance, some revisions to things that should have been done differently in the first place, and uhhh...something else
I demand 11's

 

Or like a Fourth-of-July rocket - whoosh ! BOOM! Oh, wait, I've done that already......

Much as I'd like to, I need to install a wideband before I spray this one. But I can still track it while NA.... I would REALLY like to do that yet this season.

 

Yeah you should do it N/A a couple times, just for fun, get a baseline etc...

 

I second this motion grey. dont get too trigger happy with nitrous from the get-go. Have some fun with it NA before

 

Looks like I've been out-voted on the spray. Actually, I've got several things to do yet, including gutting the intake and installing a wideband, so no spray on the track this season for me.

I can use the NA setup to recalibrate the Shift_Fast_2 and clean up CEL codes and such. Heck, I've never opened the cutout on the headers, yet. In the garage doesn't count, right?

Some NA track-time would be a good way to end the season, and maybe a chassis dyno pull or two for a baseline. Yeah, I'm gonna do that.

 

I restored the manual control wiring for the VLSD automatic last night, and went out to test a couple of on-ramps I'm familiar with. On street tires, not even DRs.

The car pulls hard, and seems to be about as fast as the 3.0 with one 75-shot stage of nitrous. I do miss the kick-in-the-back feeling you get with nitrous, but the way the engine pulls over 4K makes up for it. This one likes to rev hard and fast to fuel-cut!

Somebody tell me - with stock 3.5 injectors and 43 psi fuel pressure, is the A/F gonna be in the normal range? I'm thinking about taking the car to a track on Sunday but don't have any way to check it - unless I can get a Saturday dyno time locally. Huummmmm....

Hock your guns, sell the kids, burn down the house for insurance money, whatever it takes, but put a 3.5 in your Max.

 

Sounds like someone's got swap afterglow...

 

Great stuff grey, how ever, I dont think you should gut your intake. To be honest I dont think its worth it unless you have 7K+ shiftpoints which you dont, by gutting it and not having higher rev limiter your actually going to lack power more than gain. Your mid range power is going to be weak which is something you dont want specially with the auto.

gutted intake==> Your going to be at the line, brake torquing at 3,000. You launch, rpm's starts to reach mid 3k and you bog, then little by little start to build up power, bye bye 60'.

I say leave it as is.

 

Or I could gut it and spray it... that should take care of the midrange.

Yeah, one thing at a time. For now, anyway, what with winter coming quickly here.

 

Hah! that's it! A warm cozy feeling, all cuddled up to my .. 3.5 ???

I think that moving from a much-modded 3.0 to a modded 3.5 has been such an education that I'm still excited about it. Plus, I tore that motor down to the block/crank/rods/pistons and put it back together and it runs!

Now for the next one...

 

The educational experience of going through the labor that it takes to prep the motor, and undergo the swap process, is simply priceless. Probably more rewarding than the power gained from the swap (although that power increase IS quite nice hahaha).

and as far as gutting the manifold goes, this is a dyno from yesterday. Me=Blue, a friend with an 02 6spd with JUST an intake=Red.


Of course this isnt a fair comparison as far as gutted IM and properly working IM goes. There are other things going on there, like my SSIM, my lack of VCTs, my 3.0 ECU's lower Ign timing advance (relative to the A33b's ECU).
***********************************************
I was actually looking at a dyno from before I did the SSIM (Although the IM wasnt gutted, it wasnt working either, it was on its default open position- just like Grey99s IM currently is), and the dyno I did after doing the SSIM, and really.... the dip in the midrange was always there, same drop after the SSIM.

Before SSIM (default-open IM)= http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...-1n4-Feb22.jpg
^^notive that the whole graph is showing lower #s due to the SAE cor factor^^

After SSIM= http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...yno4-7-07a.jpg
^^STD cor factor, so yes #s are higher, but we're not lookin at raw #s, we're looking at the shape of the curves^^

So AS FAR AS SSIM'ing APPLIES TO US SWAPERS WITH THE 3.0 ECU AND TIMING EQUIPMENT... gutting the IM isnt doing any more harm at all to the midrange than is running the IM on its default open position.

 

5MT > 4AT. . . . .