ok so i decided to devote a thread to my problems with this swap to consolidate my questions and to get more help hopefully.

heres where i first stood:

any ideas on the horrible fluctuating idle? i have the stephenmax adaptor and ran it similar to the stock setup? ill try to get pics of my setup i dont know why it wont work. i let it heat up and still nothing.




heres where i stand now:

am using the stock 5 speed trans. im fairly confident i installed everything correctly. i inspected the shift linkages and they seem to be installed correctly with no play.

the iacv problem, i extended the wires to the other side of the engie bay and made the hose where the iacv would read vacuum shorter like stock and extended the 'recirc' hose across the engine to the intake like everyone else does with this swap. so i am pretty much stumped with both problems i am facing. i really want tot figure out the idle problem first. then i guess last resort i will have to remove the transmission and inspect everything in there.

there is also a hissing voice by the front vias control module (not hooked up obviously) i sprayed some wd40 around the area to try to locate the leak (its present when you shut off the car and fades away quickly)..not quite sure where its coming from, could it be correlated to the idle problem? i also sprayed around the upper and lower intake manifolds but no signs of a leak there.

OPTIONS LEFT:

Idle:
- try IACV from parts car i have, which i dont think should effect it since my iacv worked fine before i swapped it

Clutch engagement:
- continue to try to bleed it even though it should be good
- take apart transmission and inspect everything i am fairly confident i installed correctly (dont really wanna do unless i need to)

 

Your idle issue might be related to you not have any clamps on the intake side near the TB. Not sure if that is an early pic and you have since installed clamps.

Whenever your ECU detects a massive leak, the idle will fluctuate really bad to try and correct itself. That is completly normal when you have a leak. Find it, and fix it, and your idle issue should disipate.

-matt

 

good point matty, i had the same problem on my swap when i had a leak.... rpms were going up and down until i found the problem.

 

+1 on the vacuum leak, make sure the elbow is also nice and tight.
I'm not sure what is your problem regarding the clutch engagement, you listed youe potential fix but I'm not seeing what the exact problem, maybe I overlooked it. It is not engaging? Too soft/hard?

 

its not engaging properly. when the car is off it shifts into gears fine...the pedal is like stock (spec stage 3 clutch in now), and when i turn the car on and try to move it, i really have to force it to get it in or something it wont go in at all.

and to make things more odd and maybe coincidental...when im going downhill (i live on a hill) it seems to go into gear perfect, but going uphill and flat seems to be a problem. you think low gear oil can cause this? i havent looked into that...and its raining now so i cant check...if it was dry i would be out there right now working with it...i wanna drive it so bad.

 

What problem are you having with your clutch? I don't see it described anywhere. My first question with any clutch problem though is have you tried adjusting the engagement point with the nut up under the dash.

 

Have you double checked that pushing on your clutch pedal fully actuates your clutch release fork (or the slave cylinder)?? When I swapped my Legend from AT to MT I had the same prob. My hydraulic system was not completely bled, and the clutch was not being completely released. Of course your car will go into gears when it's going downhill or not running. Any MT car can be shifted without the clutch if the engine is not running or you can do rev matching. The sychros allow you to shift gears when the input shaft revs are close/same as the next gear revs. For example, when the engine is off, input shaft is 0 revs and any gear is 0 revs also, hence why it can change gears. Same for the hill, the downgrade of the hill helps the trans match revs with the input shaft. Good Luck

 

problem with the clutch is this. i bled the system, to my knowledge a pretty decent amount, no air is present as far as i can see. and what happens, is when i start the car...i press in the clutch, and it wont go into gear, it feels like something is stopping it from going in...i really have to force it to get it to go in and even at that most of the time it wont go in...aaaaaand if i start the car in 1st gear, i will be able get it to disengage and go into 1st easily, but then i will have the problem again trying to get into 2nd or any other gear other than neutral. (typing this i had an ephinany: if anything was wrong with the clutch or pressure plate or throwout bearing, how would i be able to have it in first gear, let it out normally and have it engage 1st fine?).

i have looked at the shift fork while my friend pushes in the clutch. i have him move it slowly the whole way of the pedal travel, top to bottom and it seems to move accordingly...and the fork seems to move a really good amount, but appearently not enough? any tips on bleeding it? ive tried 2 different ways that i use for brakes and i thought i bled it good. did anyone else have to bleed it for a long time to get it to work properly?

 

You know about the 2nd bleeder screw? There is one on the slave cylinder and one on the drivers side strut tower

 

that sure sounds like a problem with air in the system. happened to me when i did my clutch line, i had some air in the system, it would not go into any gear when the car was running, but if i turned it off put it into first then start it, it would be drivable but it wouldnt go into any other gear. i didnt bleed it correctly. my freinds mx3 had the same problem, but i dont remember what he said he did to fix it, i think his clutch was dying though

 

oh wow...i didnt know that bleeder was for the clutch lol. youre awesome if this works....brb

i couldnt follow the line, couldnt see what it was for. thought it was for the abs pump or something idk.

 

You do the TOP one first and get the bulk out the air out, then the one on the clutch slave last to get the fine bubbles out

-matt

 

There's no logic in that. It's the exact opposite. Bubbles have a tendency to rise as you work them out so one should work in that direction.


And logic aside, the FSM says so as well.

 

okay guys. i now love krrz350 long time...my clutch problem is now non-existant....now i just need to get the idle problem down...which i am going to do right now with the new iacv from the other maxima....heres pics of my new revised setup as per you guys advice. this is how i re-did it, and it did not work...i will put on the other valve and clamp everything down tight. i hope this works *crosses fingers*.

are there any hidden vacuum fittings on the 3.5 manifold i might be missing?





this 3rd pic is where the nipple off the iacv adaptor goes into the manifold

 

update:

tried new iacv, clamped all the hoses, ran brake booster right to IM vac....found 2 large leaks (2 nipples not connected right after TB, one by the firewall and one between the fuel rail and rear valve cover, so i just looped those 2 together with a hose). and still, same problem....so what i did was i was just frustrated, so i unplugged the battery and am going to let it sit overnight...maybe resetting the ecu might fix this.

oh and for what its worth, the plug at the bottom of the pathfinder throttle body, that is used for the iacv on the pathfinder harness right? because i am fairly confident that you dont touch that, im just making sure its not something else that needs to be plugged into something.

so now im stumped, did everything that i could thing of for this idle problem, and still nothing. guess ill try again tomorrow.......sigh.

 

the pathfinder iacv is mounted to the bottom of the throttlebody and uses internal passageways. Someone else is going to have to answer this part for me as well, I can hear a little voice in the back of my head telling me this needs to be removed and capped off.......

Vacuum reading at idle and base ignition timing would be helpful here as well.

 

Yes there is a hole at the bottom on each side of the PF TB plate, did you block it off? If you didn't it would also cause a massive air leak. I found out just now my old DEK tb, one of the hole lost its silicone seal and it was giving me a big boost leak and my a/f was going crazy. Resealed it and waiting for it to dry... GL

 

you should have used the PF iacv (to get wrid of the cold start problem), instead of using the blockoff plate and the 4th gen iacv

 

You need to block the bottom of your Pathfinder TB OFF !! If you dont, there are two large leaks and will cause exactly what you are explaining.

You also need clamps on the IACV lines, and the TB. I dont see any clamps on the revised picture. You may have leaks there

-matt

 

i will go do this right now. i do have clamps on it now, just not in that picture. i will see what happens now. thank you.

 

UPDATE:

remove the pathfinder throttle body. removed the iacv from the tb, filled it with jb weld. reinstalled it, and it idles perfect. i go to move it in 1st gear car loses power and dies. so i say, oh **** the alternator ground is bad. i re-ground the alternator, jump it. i look at the car voltage with my apex safc2, i see the volts gradually dropping...so im like...just my ****ing luck. my alternator is bad. so now that im confident the car is good, i THINK. im having it towed to my place of work and putting the alternator on and re-welding the stock exhaust back onto the car as a temp fix. i hope once this alternator is done all the problems will be fixed. thank you everyone who helped, i will keep you update with pics and vids of it running finally

 

Good to hear. At least you didn't throw a rod due to a loose rod bolt that was not installed properly by a shop like in
my situation. Now get that fix and see how she does.

 

ahha, so the little voice in the back of my head was correct......

Don't worry chun, you'll get it all worked out I'm sure, even if the entire .org has to call that place every day a few times a day until they agree to make it right

 

well i just got a dek in the mean time, just trying to get her running good again.

 

hey hey guys lets stick to the matter at hand here and how ****ty my car is. lol j/k.

but i put the new alternator in....the tow truck that was suppose to come couldnt tow my car because it was too low...i even offered to take off the lip but still no. so i did the alternator on the ground in the rain here....the tensioner busted, luckily i had an extra one...so i used that...jumped it...it charged up fine...so tomorrow is the day, i will drive it 30 miles to work open downpipe as a test drive lol...then i will weld up my stock exhaust to it at work. hope things will be well *crosses fingers*

 

ok great news...kinda. i got my car running great. exhaust is quiet as hell...car ride great...shifts great....everything was perfect.

im literally 30 seconds away from my house...i just hit it in 2nd gear... *grind crunch horribles noises*....car starts up and runs fine (phew)..but as soon as you let the clutch out it stalls....its like its stuck in gear...you cant roll it without pressing the clutch. i dont know what is wrong, i am about to take the transmission off now...man im so pissed, it was running so perfect.

 

Xjinct, that really sucks bro. Taking out the tranny is a bisnatch!
anyways... good luck with finding the problem and keep us updated. Glad you at least got the car started. You're almost there!

 

that really does suck man.. Now you will be forced to slap a 6speed in there!!!

 

I'll show you mine if you show me yours

I bought a low mileage vlsd shortly before I did the swap as a back-up in case I blew anything. Well I did, probably the same day as you! I definitly destroyed my input shaft bearing the other day, if it makes you feel any better. Allthough I can still drive it around, but it ticks BAD, I expect to find the retainer in the bottom of the case, gee maybe I should stop power shifting except at the track maybe. But if that doesn't make you feel a little better I was driving another .org members car this morning (roadtesting before a tranny rebuild.....bad input bearing......lol) and after driving a stock 5-speed vs 4.5 gen back to back it makes it all worth it.

 

yea im picking up a i30 vlsd for 700 tomorrow. should have it up and VIDS FINALLY this weekend.

 

ok update...im still putting in the vlsd tranny...BUT...i managed to salvage the open diff.

i went out to the car...it was stuck...shifter wouldnt go into anything except 3rd...does the same thing the next morning....just shuts off when i try to start it in 3rd...wont even try to move...so im like...**** this blown tranny and ram it into 1st....and it clicks..

so i say wow. and i try to move it, and it moves! i reverse back into my spot. holy ****. so i take my g/f's maxima to the parts store drain and fill with some retarded thick oil. 85w/140 or something. and after a minute of sitting shifting with the car off IT WORKS!

only a couple of problems with the tranny now, but its driveable. 1) grinds into 3rd bad 2) grinds into 4th not so bad 3) pops out of 5th gear 4) makes a ticking noise at idle sitting still...and prolly when i roll, but i cant hear it, not too loud.

 

IT IS NOT DRIVEABLE!!!!!

You're putting the lives of innocent people in jeopardy...........

 

lol how? i drove to lebanon valley dragstrip and back today...its 225 miles or so...and i drive 30 to work each day.