Well as many of you know, my 3.5 swap went to **** and I put a stock DEK back in a couple of weeks ago. Now its still having some issues maybe EU related?

First off, car feels really gutless through out, I checked base timing on the EU and its showing 5 degrees. WTF? and stock timing under driving conditions. When I drop the idle from the low 800s/700s to 680-720ish, it saw 15degrees for a little bit and back down to 5 degrees. The car idles and vacuum sits at 20hg. I added 10degrees at idle and the car idles healthier, and driving down low is a lot more responsive. Also seeing very slow spool and low boost on a 8psi spring (could be contributed by a exhaust leak between the manifold/feedpipe)

Second, I try to setup VAIS with the EU using Power line activation (sending power via EU). Following Dandymax's writeup, I did not see more than 5v when taking a voltmeter to the power line. I'm think maybe another bad driver since cylinder 5 is also showing no input signal when its hooked up.

Third, my VSS, I tapped the line but under the Datalogger, its all over the place. I try the 2 step and it would kick in but after a few second, it would deactivate and my rpm would soar. The weird thing is, it also kicks in in first gear and when I'm moving in neutral/clutch pedal engage. I know this isn't suppose to happen since the EU is reading off the VSS for the 2 step correct? Do I need to intercept the signal instead or could it be another EU issue?

BTW I just ordered a new EU since this one is shot and I bought it used so no warranty for me.

 

All I can say is just wait and see how things go with the new unit.

 

I think mine reads timing low at idle too? like at 5?? I need to double check my connections, it reads fine cruising and at wot.

 

Mine reads inbetween 120 and 20 at idel. I know when I added timing at idel it would run rich as hell and dump lots of gas.
Ok the slow spool and low boost is from the leak. I been dealing with the same problem you got for a long time i could not get the flanges to seal all the way. After I welded them shut nice fast spool for the first time with the hx35

 

If you already know the first (used) EU is bad why bother messing with it? Just install the new one and then see what happens...

 

Because I'm uncertain if the base timing is EU related or not but the new unit should be here by weeks end so we will see.

 

Okay, just got the new unit today... well I have both good news (sorta) and bad news.
First the good new, the 2step sound 100x more healthier the 2 times that I tested. It actually pops and builts a little bit of boost comparing to the other unit where it would sit at the rpm and built like a a half a psi. But again, I only tried it a couple of times without really letting it sit there.

Now the bad new.... STILL getting no signal on IJ 5 error from the EU. THIS IS A BRAND NEW UNIT!
I did a few readings on the mulitmeter and here are the results:
1.) Completely bypassing the EU, the ECU/IJ wire shows a 12v+/- a few tenths.
2.) Intercepting the IJ wire, the wire (P/GY) coming from the injector shows 12v+/- while the input wire to the ECU (P/R) shows only about .7-.5v on the first few readings and finally it just goes to 0. I am unable to get any voltage reading from that wire at all now.
3.) Because of number 2, I checked the continuity of that specific wire(P/R) again... From EU harness pin to ECU harness pin, gives me a zero reading (good reading).

So now I am stump completely! I have yet to drive the car but I have currently bypassed the cylinder 5 IJ wire, I don't know if its just my luck that I got a brand new broken EU, the likeliness of that happening is pretty far fetch I would imagin. Maybe its something to do with the wiring? but again why would I get the readings I get if they weren't right? Plus its literally 2 connections, I really don't think I can mess that one up. BTW, the jumpers are correct, since the EU default setting is open, I didn't have to mess with it.

What am I going to do?

One more think, I'm using the v2.13 software that just came out, would that be an issue?

 

Just got back from a drive..the 2 step works great! I was building like 6psi of boost, car still runs like crap but I haven't had much of a chance to fine tune it. It keeps going lean on me under WOT so I just back off, cruising is fine at a 14.7ish. I'm using Airflow Adjustment so far, is that the only option I have now since the cyl5 is bypassed I won't be able to tune with IJ? Also what I have noticed, when I'm in gear, off the gas and letting it rev down, I'm getting a lot of popping/backfire thru the exhaust. I'm showing rich for a split second from 21a/f to anywhere from 10-12a/f when it pops. I'm thinking I'm gonna need to mess with the tune a bit but it was interesting.

I'll post a vid of the 2step with boost when I get a chance. Its freaking loud!

 

Something's fishy here...

What kind of voltages do you get if you test another working line before and after the EU (say cyl #2 for fun). Please do this, I'd like to know what they are for reference anyways.

Where is your injector ground line on the EU tied to?

You said you're getting 12v on the (P/GY) line with the multimeter but the injector's not firing? That is the output line from the EU to the injector... you sure you haven't mixed up the input and output sides?

 

Ok here are the results:
Bypass EU on cyl 5: Injector to ECU--->12.25v+/-
Cyl 5 EU Intercept: Injector>EU(output)--->12.25v+/-
Cyl 5 EU Intercept: EU>ECU (Input)---.22v+/-
Cylinder 1&3 EU intercept: EU>ECU (Input)--->10.45v
Cylinder 1&3 EU intercept: Injector>EU(output)--->12.2v+/-


Like I said before, when the EU intercept the signal, the injector does not fire. Tested with screw driver and the tone of the exhaust changes. Injecotr ground is grounded to the same wire as the EU ground wire. Just to confirm, Pink/Gray goes to the Injector and Pink/Red goes to ECU, correct?

 

Thanks.


Yes that's supposed to be the case. Check the actual pin locations on the harnesses though, just to make sure the wires didn't get switched. What color is your I/J wire.. Blue/White?

So you're not getting an error code on the EU at all or the left light on the front flashing red?

 

I'm getting a error code everytime I connect to the pc, showing no injector input signal on cylinder 5. I've checked the wires and even ran a new wire for the Pink/Red right at the EU harness to the ECU pin but it does the same thing. The front panel is showing a red flashing light by active.

Another thing I notice is when I connect the EU to the PC, after it comes online, the idle changes... not necessary the rpm but the tone of the idle and also it seems like the timing is being retarded. This is only noticeble when I connect the computer to it.

 

OK look at your wideband and see if your air/fuel is going mad rich when you connect to the pc. Thats what happens to me and Matty. You should connect it before cranking the car. Ok what verison are you running and have you tried to reinstall your software as you seem to think your wiring is fine!

 

I was running the v2.13 but I revert back to the v2.00. Not much difference on how it runs but I do notice that there is not change anymore regardless if I'm connect before or after I start the car. I'm still stumped on this "injector 5 signal not detected error."

Some good new, I was experiencing super timing retard for no reason whenever I hit pass 50%. It was consistently showing -20 degrees adjustment when I didn't even touch the ignition timing map. So I took apart the IM/LIM and found that half the knock sensor wire was bare, I never checked it and assumed that it was ok but the shield/insulation right at the sensor would completely strip. I replaced it with a spare one I had and now I no longer experience any timing adjustment.

I have the VSS intercepted, I have the VSS(pink/blue)>EU input(LB/Y)>EU>EU output(Brwn/Y)>VSS... still no signal.

So the remainder of my problems:
-Injector 5 no signal when connecting to EU
-Still not seeing anything on the VSS input on the datalogger.
-Low boost and slow spool which is cause by the exhaust leak (more likely from the crappy ss autochrome headers). I'm planning on putting the stocker back on sometime this week.

 

90% of the problem has been resolved. I finally figured out why I wasn't getting signal to injector 5 and it wasn't my wiring nor was anything with the EU/ECU itself. It was the damn EU harness! When Greddy made the harness, whoever it was, swapped the P/R wire and the P/G wire. The wires were backwards, its seems so stupid now looking at it but I never thought Greddy would be stupid enough to get the two wires backwards. Now that it is fix, I'm seeing full 6psi and it feels awesome.
However, I am running into a slight tunning issue. When I'm in a gear and go WOT, my AFR is at 11.5ish; right where I tuned for but if I was to do a 2 gear run (especially 2nd to 3rd), right after I go into third the AFR would peg 9.6 AFR. The whole car just bogs out, this only happens when I'm doing multiple gear runs. If I do a single gear pull, afr is normal. How can I tune for that? I try to do zero correction, I would run lean on the single gear pulls and still pegging 9.6-9.7 when under multiple gear runs. I know I'm probably gonna get flamed but I am running 650cc injectors (which the original plan was to go into the build 3.5). I know its overboard for this setup but I would love to not have to get new injectors again if I can help it.

 

Ahem...


And that, folks, is exactly why I always say (and it's in the writeup a few times I think), always check the pin location, regardless of the wire color..

Anyways, I don't mean to pick on you, I'm glad you found the problem - I knew it had to be a wiring issue. As for the tuning stuff I'll reply to your PM later, I'm at work right now.

 

Flame away, I know I know. I'm just glad that it is fixed tho.