Finally! Cammed DEK is alive and makin' sweet music to my ears
can't wait to hear it...
now I need to get cams and have those heads I have sitting around port and polished!
which cutout do you have dandy? I have the qtp one on my 2000 max...where are is it in your exhaust stream? mine is welded in a straight pipe, so it's right after the cattman headers...sounds beautiful on the de-k! can't imagine what top end would sound like with cams and tune...
now I need to get cams and have those heads I have sitting around port and polished!
which cutout do you have dandy? I have the qtp one on my 2000 max...where are is it in your exhaust stream? mine is welded in a straight pipe, so it's right after the cattman headers...sounds beautiful on the de-k! can't imagine what top end would sound like with cams and tune...
Are you talking about cam timing? The best cam timing will depend on where you want the power and what the cam specs are. Or are you talking about ignition timing?
I sold my electric one, now I've just got a basic manual one (a cap with 3 wing nuts off a short y-piece). It's right after the y-pipe on mine.
Are you talking about cam timing? The best cam timing will depend on where you want the power and what the cam specs are. Or are you talking about ignition timing?
Are you talking about cam timing? The best cam timing will depend on where you want the power and what the cam specs are. Or are you talking about ignition timing?
Cam timing...would it beneficial to adjust that for a boosted application?
But IN GENERAL TERMS...
On a boosted application, you want as little, to no overlap. If you're familiar with how scavenging effect works in a combustion chamber, it becomes evident how that may not be as benefitial to a pressurized (boosted) setup. Essencially, you'd be leaking boost during this time of valve overlap. The less overlap there is, the more CFMs of air you can cram into the combustion chamber (since less fresh intake boost will "leak" out the exhaust side).
This would all depend on the cams you use of course. Also keep in mind that removing the overlap from the cam timing might benefit you while under boost, but it may affect your idle and low end in ways you may not like, lol. So its all on finding that in-between compromise. And of course the ultimate question... depending on the cams, would the labor be worth the gains?
Like dandy was saying, it all depends on the cams you're using.
But IN GENERAL TERMS...
On a boosted application, you want as little, to no overlap. If you're familiar with how scavenging effect works in a combustion chamber, it becomes evident how that may not be as benefitial to a pressurized (boosted) setup. Essencially, you'd be leaking boost during this time of valve overlap. The less overlap there is, the more CFMs of air you can cram into the combustion chamber (since less fresh intake boost will "leak" out the exhaust side).
This would all depend on the cams you use of course. Also keep in mind that removing the overlap from the cam timing might benefit you while under boost, but it may affect your idle and low end in ways you may not like, lol. So its all on finding that in-between compromise. And of course the ultimate question... depending on the cams, would the labor be worth the gains?
But IN GENERAL TERMS...
On a boosted application, you want as little, to no overlap. If you're familiar with how scavenging effect works in a combustion chamber, it becomes evident how that may not be as benefitial to a pressurized (boosted) setup. Essencially, you'd be leaking boost during this time of valve overlap. The less overlap there is, the more CFMs of air you can cram into the combustion chamber (since less fresh intake boost will "leak" out the exhaust side).
This would all depend on the cams you use of course. Also keep in mind that removing the overlap from the cam timing might benefit you while under boost, but it may affect your idle and low end in ways you may not like, lol. So its all on finding that in-between compromise. And of course the ultimate question... depending on the cams, would the labor be worth the gains?
I am getting an engine built as we speak. I have 2 options:
1. Take the cams I have in my 3.5 swap now (drilled) and re-use them.
2. Get Rev-Up Z cams and get Tilley's spacers (or find a machine shop)
Should I even worry about messing with the timing/overlap. I am starting to think that 180* will work best, and the additional labor isn't worth the small? gain, and loss of driveability. Word on the street is the revup z cams are great for boost.
Physically yes, they'll drop right in. Just be sure that the cam timin itself is the same as that of the non-revup. And if its not, then be sure that the adapters compensate for this difference. But the cams themselves yes they'll drop in no problem.
Funny you guys should ask...
I was at the track today (Sat), got 6 passes in, got some footage with open cutout, did some experimenting with advancing timing on an EB, quite the interesting day.
I'm beat and off to bed though, I'll post up a heap of stuff tomorrow...
I was at the track today (Sat), got 6 passes in, got some footage with open cutout, did some experimenting with advancing timing on an EB, quite the interesting day.
I'm beat and off to bed though, I'll post up a heap of stuff tomorrow...
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,113
From: NY
I'm on a mission to find out exactly how many degrees the electromagnetic retarders sweep.
Last edited by nismology; Oct 1, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
Ok folks, the video with the open cutout is now up on YouTube.
See it here. I'll also link it on the first post.
Be sure to post it up if you find out... 
See it here. I'll also link it on the first post.
Originally Posted by nismology
I'm on a mission to find out exactly how many degrees the electromagnetic retarders sweep.
Last edited by DandyMax; Oct 2, 2007 at 11:35 AM.
Thanks. I was just curious what people thought of the sound with the cams at idle with an open cutout... since there hasn't been many cammed 3.0's with Cattman headers and people were asking for open cutout vids earlier etc...
Of course I have no idea if person X listening on their computer with Y sound set up and Z's brand of speakers is hearing anything close to what it actually is but hey, whatcha gonna do.
Of course I have no idea if person X listening on their computer with Y sound set up and Z's brand of speakers is hearing anything close to what it actually is but hey, whatcha gonna do.
Thanks. I was just curious what people thought of the sound with the cams at idle with an open cutout... since there hasn't been many cammed 3.0's with Cattman headers and people were asking for open cutout vids earlier etc...
Of course I have no idea if person X listening on their computer with Y sound set up and Z's brand of speakers is hearing anything close to what it actually is but hey, whatcha gonna do.
Of course I have no idea if person X listening on their computer with Y sound set up and Z's brand of speakers is hearing anything close to what it actually is but hey, whatcha gonna do.
http://www.vqpower.com/vids/matt004.zip
now that sounds intimidating! not that when your car revs 8000rpm+ w/ cams don't but his at idle sounds lopeir than yours to be honest.
well the only other max that i've heard, (not in person) that was cammed and w/ cut out, open headers which ever, is the one on vqpower.com
http://www.vqpower.com/vids/matt004.zip
now that sounds intimidating! not that when your car revs 8000rpm+ w/ cams don't but his at idle sounds lopeir than yours to be honest.
http://www.vqpower.com/vids/matt004.zip
now that sounds intimidating! not that when your car revs 8000rpm+ w/ cams don't but his at idle sounds lopeir than yours to be honest.
well the only other max that i've heard, (not in person) that was cammed and w/ cut out, open headers which ever, is the one on vqpower.com
http://www.vqpower.com/vids/matt004.zip
now that sounds intimidating! not that when your car revs 8000rpm+ w/ cams don't but his at idle sounds lopeir than yours to be honest.
http://www.vqpower.com/vids/matt004.zip
now that sounds intimidating! not that when your car revs 8000rpm+ w/ cams don't but his at idle sounds lopeir than yours to be honest.
Yep I have had that video of Iron Lung's for a long time. As nismology said, I think his rpm was set lower. I chose not to do that; for a few different reasons I didn't want it that low. Mine is stock idle speed (650 or so). And the cams/engines are different between our cars also. And cam timing and tuning will also affect the lope sound significantly.
Thanks for the comments though. I don't mind you saying his was lopier, to me the goal wasn't to be the lopiest, but first to optimize the power band and then second to maintain driveability as much as possible.
Last edited by DandyMax; Oct 9, 2007 at 04:30 PM.
Maybe at the track next time..
Yes for sure I always get questions; everyone is surprised with the times it runs.
If there was ever a scenario where cam timing selection was important it's with the rev-up cams. The cam timing chart that shows -4 degrees of overlap only assumes the intake CVTC is off. The exhaust CVTC is still on and in the advanced mode, meaning the exhaust cams are retarded with the CVTC off (not depicted in the chart). This will increase overlap a whole lot if you simply do the 180* on the exhaust sprockets.
I'm on a mission to find out exactly how many degrees the electromagnetic retarders sweep.
I'm on a mission to find out exactly how many degrees the electromagnetic retarders sweep.
Any progress on finding out the sweep? BTW when I said the rev-up cams looked decent it was implied (well to me anyways) that he'd be setting his own cam timing.
Figured I'd update this to finish off this thread.
I now have dynojet numbers for this setup, over in the dyno forum:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....08#post6400108
I now have dynojet numbers for this setup, over in the dyno forum:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....08#post6400108
CONGRATS!!! and when you drop the HAMMER let us know
EDIT: added Part 1 (closed cutout) and Part 2 (open cutout) videos. Click here for Part 1 and here for Part 2.
It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions). Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh. 
Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions).
Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh. Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.
Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...
Dropped it today (Sat) at the track. Will post up tomorrow, too tired tonight.
Fuel temp is significantly lower, night and day difference after running long/hard, the rail is still cool, just like the 00VI... also simpler plumbing with the swap etc
Fuel temp is significantly lower, night and day difference after running long/hard, the rail is still cool, just like the 00VI... also simpler plumbing with the swap etc
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