Good luck on the 00vi swap man!! Z looks sick too!!

 

We had actually thought about doing that too. I'll try to pick some up today if I can find a car to get around with.

 

Thanks man.

 

yeah def try to get a hold of some liquid gasket.. keep us posted on any new developments. if only i was closer to bmore i'd pass through to compare setups & try to help figure it out, but im in NY

 

AJ, I cannot listen to your videos at work, but how did you seal the LIM? Did you get new gaskets? RTV? Use old gaskets? Also if you can keep your car running you can try spraying carb/choke cleaner on some of the unions in the engine bay to pin point a vac leak.

 

Ok heres the update. Monday we started working on it again. Maxboy325 came past to check out the swap since he's planning to do it soon. So we went and got some liquid gasket and sealed the block off plate real good. Then we pulled the injectors and dipped then in the cleaner and put everything back together. So far so good. When we start it up the revs jump up to 2000 then falls down to about 500 and sits there. It was idling rough but it was running. Then my brother says turn it off and apparently theres gas spraying from one of the injectors. So we ended up taking everything apart and putting it back together about 4 times and every time one of the injectors were leaking. I guess my choices are to replace the orings on the injectors myself, send them to deatchwerks (sp?) or buy all new ones. What do you guys think?

 

i was able to re use the o-rings on mine, they were still in good condition. but they are very delicate though. how do yours look? any tears in them? if they are scratched up or anything like that you can try replacing them first before buying whole new injectors. when you put the injectors back into the LIM, did you coat the o-rings with a decent amount of clean engine oil? this is important to make a tight seal

 

Yeah a few of them were in pretty bad shape. I went around to some parts shops and all i found was little boxes of all different sizes with only 1 of the ones i needed in each box. So I bought 2. I Called the dealer just to see what they would say and they told me it would be $7 fo each oring lol. Its been raining the last 2 days so I havent had a chance to try the new orings I bought. Also I didnt know about the coating the rings in oil. I'll be doing that next time.

 

I used all the old gaskets. I was planning on doing that next actually. I have some air intake cleaner I was going to use.

 

$7??? damn! well yeah you can replace the worst looking ones with the new ones, and apply a good amount of oil over them before you seat them in the LIM. the oil may very well fix the problem

 

I left all the original o-rings on my injectors, but replaced the rings that sit in the lower manifold. You really have no reason to touch the injectors, either. I pulled mine out all together with the fuel rail and sat them down until I put them back in the car, end of story.

 

Well when we were pulling the lower intake mainfold off the max in the junk yard we pulled the fuel rail and injectors out instead keeping them together. I think thats where we messed up.

 

Could be, you'll never know. Either way, try new o-rings (shouldn't be too expensive, but by new I mean make sure the ones in the manifold are new but ALSO the rings on the injectors themselves). That is cheaper than new or processed injectors, so give that try.

 

I'll do that. Its still raining so I wont be able to get to it until tomorrow around 12. Hopefully this works.

 

ajcool2, I saw that you were looking for the fuel rail adapters in Mohfpro's thread...your pics show u haven't used these, any problems with this set up?

 

No I posted that before I realized I could still use the fuel dampener. So from my understanding its your choice whether to use the adapters or not.

 

Well we went back at it today. We fixed the injector problem but its not starting again. I'm pretty sure there may be a leak somewhere or somethings not routed right but we checked everything 4 and 5 times. Whe I start it if I hold the throttle open it stays on and as soon as I let it go it shuts off. Also I'm still getting that weird popping noise from my intake. I'll be looking over other members hoserouting pictures to make sure mine is the same. Also I think I'm coming down with a cold or something because I feel like crap right now.

 

You're in Maryland and its raining. Colds are like the Bubonic Plague was in the 14th century...

Anyhow, the popping may be from your double accordion. The starting issue...it sounds like it may be something like your FPR?

 

Ok question when I put everything together the coolant lines under my tb push everything under it down and it looks like some of the lines are bent. Would that have something to do with it? Here are pics from today.

 

If it only runs with the throttle open and sounds like crap when it does run like that, you more than likely have a vacuum leak. Will it crank and start up for a second and shut off, or just not turn over at all? As MOHF said, it could be due to your leaky double accordion intake.

If you get a good sealed intake and can't find any other vacuum leaks elsewhere, maybe your IACV isn't working as it should. I noticed in pics showing your IACV that you have a reducer on the side going into the intake manifold. I would never do that, as you want a good unrestricted flow of the air into the manifold from the IACV. I doubt that would cause the car not to run at all, though - just a thought.

 

I'm buying an intake pipe tomorrow. I went looking for one today and of course the only time they dont have any is when I need it.

Where did you route your IACV hose? I really dont know any other place to put it since I'm going off of other peoples pictures. I'll try anything at this point. Also Its starting a little more similar to the time it stayed on for a while after I replace 2 hoses. I really think the accordian and that reducer is the problem.

 

Nevermind searched a little and found that most people cut that peice off and use a pvc to convert it. Heres a pic I found.

 

Well, to test the accordion, just remove the intake. No biggie running open TB just for startup tests...rubber band a rag over the opening to be cautious if you want.

 

It sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you ever try spraying carb cleaner on your unions?

 

We started doing some but it got to cold before we did the rest. We'll do the rest tonight.

 

Heres another random startup vid I did last night.

 

hey aj im doing a full dek swap and i just finished up yesterday and i go to start it and i have THE SAME problem u are having...it runs VERYYY rough when it turns over and it only stays on if i mash the gas alot...and it makes this poping noise from my intake almost like a backfire tupe of sound

 

Yup thats what I'm getting. If you find out what it is before me let me know.

 

Update: I found 3 leaks already and will be working on plugin them today. The biggest one is between my throttle body adapter plates and the others are hoses and my intake. I had somebody start the car and as long as i sprayd the intake cleaner on the plates the car stayed on. Hopefully I can have it fixed today.

 

Good luck. It's nice to find some closure finally, eh?

 

dude thats same priob i had....MASSIVEEEE leak right where ply tb plate is i pluged that up and forgot about the little vaccum hose on the bottom of the 4th gen tb i pluged that up and i had a bad fpr i got that and now she runs amazing!!!

 

make sure u check ur plugs mine were fouled out really bad cause of the amount of gass spit in there...if there just alot of black carbon on them just take some tb cleaner and spray them up and wipe it off and they will be ready to rock again

 

Well we thought the car was fixed and running fine until we looked down and saw the maf was unplugged. Once we plugged it up it began to die again. It is staying on a little longer since I put new gaskets between the throttle body plates. I need a gasket to put between the intake manifold and the throttle body plates. I'll have to check some other autoparts stores to see if they have it.

 

Sounds like you need a new MAF. My car acted the exact same way when my MAF died. Purred like a kitten at idle with it unplugged, but the second you plugged it in Sounds like more than just a dead MAF, though. I would definitely get those gaskets in ASAP.

Did you get the other leaks you found sealed up properly?

 

I'm praying thats not the case. I sealed most of the leaks but I still have one major one I have to get to. Its between the intake manifold and the first adapter plate. I have to find some gasket paper and make my own for that one. Also I put a better clamp on the 2 accordians and tested it again and there were no leaks at all. Hopefully maf isnt dead though. I guess we'll find out later today.

 

You can buy gasket material to cut and make your own at most auto parts stores. I picked up a pack at Advance Auto when I was doing my swap just in case, but didn't end up needing it I don't think.

As much as I hate to bring bad news, though, your MAF does indeed appear to be dead. I guess you'll see after the leak is sealed, but it has all the telltale signs.

 

AJ I have a Haynes Manual that might be helpful to you in diagnosing your problem you are welcome to it I also have a voltmeter iwhich can test that you are getting the proper voltage to the throttle body, maf and injectors I think it is one of those three problems if you do not have vacuum leaks and also try replacing your PCV Valve.

 

Well its up and running finally! I went to the junkyard and bought a maf for $40 plugged it up and it died just like before. So I went to pep boys found some gasket paper and cut out a few. After we got the on the car started right up and idled. So now I'm about to go put my hood on and try to hook up my window switch. Also I need to replace my rear taillight lol. Uploading the vid soon.

 

Glad to hear it's running. Get that switched hooked up and enjoy

 

Sometimes I don't understand how vacuum leaks will not allow the car to start or stay on. Yesterday I had an emergency where my PCV broke. The hose wasn't connected and the car still started and drove fine. A ruff idle in park but it drove fine.