sickk bro glad to hear!!! have found with ur new founded power up top!!!! ur gas mileage is ganna go in the crapper cause ur ganna have ur foot to the floor sooo muchh!! haha

 

Yeah I believe it especially with my Z going bye-bye. The max is going to have to give me my speed fix.

 

hahaha soo shes runnin good now??

 

Nice man!!! I have been following your 00vi thread for awhile. Glad you got all your issues worked out! I remember when i finally got my MEVI working as it should, and damn it felt so nice to have top end power! I kinda wish i did the 00vi swap instead, but meh some form of forced induction should cure that problem hahah.

Whats going on with the Z? Are you getting rid of it?

 

Yeah I havent really gotten on it just yet since its been raining on and off here but I cant wait to. Once I buy a few things I'm going to finally install my n20 kit after a year of having it.

Yes I decided to sell the Z. The popo's got me for my tint so I had it removed saturday and I'm in the process of selling my exhaust. I decided it would be a good time to start saving more for my GTR and house. I'm not getting it when it first comes out though I'm going to wait maybe 1-2 years. By 25 I should be pretty much set.

 

Today I decided to drive the max to work. Everything seemed pretty normal except the wierd idle at stop lights but I expected that. I was driving down a straight road and decided to give it a little gas. When I did I heard a pop. At first I thought I drove over a rock and it hit the bottom of the car but I dont think thats what it was. So when I got to a light the car idled maybe 300 rpm higher than it was before. I put it in park and the revs went all the way up to 2000 for about 3 seconds and dropped back down. When I got to work I popped the hood and did a quick check of all my hoses and everything looked like it was fine. I turned the car off and turned it back on to make sure it would start again and it did. Any ideas of what that may have been?

 

mite be running really rich and it backfired orr u could still have a vacuum leak....thos dammm tb adapters to use 4th gen tb are a pain in the asssssss too seal up...i had a problem when i first got my dek running it was still leaking there a little bit and u can hear the leak from in the cabin...it was not good...but grab sum throttle boddy cleaner and with the car iddling spray around the tb adapter plates and see if its leaking and just double check everything

 

Yeah I know there is still a small leak where the IM meets the first plate. So I know thats why the idle is off. The noise may have been a back fire. I've never been in a car when it happened before so that might have been it. It just caught me off guard.

 

lol yeah gl man trying to seal those up...i was about to throw the adapters and the im in the garbage it drove me nutssss!!!!!!!!

 

Adapters eventually drove me nuts, too. That's why I run a sealed 5th gen throttlebody now.

 

If I find one at the junkyard its definatly going on.

 

i have a 5th gen tb ill sell you

 

I ordered a oem throttle body gasket at the dealer and waiting for it to come in. I didnt realize it was missing this whole time. I gaskets I made is sealing it just enough for the car to run. If I get that in and the idle problem still isnt gone then I may pick that up from you.

 

aitee just let me know man

 

Same here. It baffles the hell out of me.


ajcool2, a vacuum leak should not make your car run rich. If anything, it should cause the opposite. A vacuum leak allows additional, unconrolled air into the motor. If the sensors already indicate the amount of air flowing in, and compensate with the appropriate fuel mixture, then any additional volume of air will mix in with less fuel.

I've had a lean problem for months, but my leak is very small, so I havent bothered with them, or really had time to fix them.

What did you finally do with the EGR block off? That is the focal point of all leaks. The "pssshh" sound in one of your earlier vids was from there. Also you must be careful when rerouting the vacuum lines at the spider assembly. I first routed them wrong, not realizing that there was an order to the whole thing, and damaged my boost sensor and first map switch.

Finally, wherever you have 2 metals coming together as in the TB and adaptor, there must be some rubber gasket in between. There are no exceptions, and it doesnt matter how tight you think the seal is. It will always leak air without rubber or rtv sealant.

 

I guess that popping noise will remain a mystery then. It hasn't happened since but then again i never hit the gas like that since so who knows.

We were continuously checking the blockoff plate after we redid it and its on there real good. My bro would actually put his hand around it to see if he could feel air coming out when I turned the car off and he didn't. I'm positive the noise was coming from where my throttle body and first adapter plate met. I haven't heard the pssshh noise since we put gaskets between them.

Yeah that was the noob in me that didn't put gaskets between the plates. Now I know.

 

Can someone tell me where the TAM screw is?

 

isnt that one of the ones on the back of the gauge cluster?

 

It is supposed to be right on the back of the cluster, labeled TAM, can't miss it. But is your car a '98? I think the digital ODO clusters actually don't have the TAM screw like the 95-97's. According to this thread, this guy used the COS- screw and it worked:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=tam+screw+cos

Let us know if it works

 

Thanks man. I cant believe I searched all night last night and that thread never showed up. I'll try that screw and see if it works. If not I'll be wiring it up to the ECU.

Also the car is running perfect now that the TB gasket is in. It feels soo much better than before. Cant wait to get the RPM switch on so I can feel the top end PoWa!

 

No prob man, I'm really glad to see that it's all worked out now. It's a great feeling once it fires up and runs well, isn't it?

I initially tried to splice into the ECU wire, and well, maybe it's just me, but that was not happening. That cluster of wires was just a compact, cluttered mess, and of course the one that I needed was buried beneath a bunch of other wires - I barely had any room to work to splice that in. So, I went behind the cluster and had my signal in 20 mins

 

Get that RPM switch in there pronto! My powerband as it is is sort of like, "Ohhh, well that's nice...hmm, getting better...holy crap!" Let's just say I used to think the VQ was torquey. Now, I think it just likes to rev

 

Working on it as we speak! Ok got a question. Everythings wired but we are stuck on how to get wires up to the VIAS. How did everyone get thier wires up into the VIAS while its on the car? We dont have the plugs that go into it.

 

In the longterm, PLEASE get a pigtail (plug and wires sticking out of it) to do it properly. In the short term, you can buy really small female connectors (to attach to your wires) to slide onto the pins and then try and secure it with tape.

 

Ok I just went to the store and bout the connectors. Does the left side run to the rpm switch and right side to the battery?

 

you want to connect the terminal closer to the driver side fender to your RPM switch. The terminal that is closer to the manifold goes to your +12v source

 

OK it doesnt look like its working. I'm supposed to be using the brown connector right?

 

Yes. Double check you have the wires correct. Test your VIAS to see if it's working properly, also. If it is, switch the wires. Which wire on the RPM switch are you using as activation?

 

wait I think that the brown connector is actually for the swirl valves, right? that's how it is on mine, at least. My power valve connector is black and is the one closer to the manifold.

 

Brain fart on my part It is indeed the black plug, not the brown one. It should be on the left.

 

OK I tried both plugs and neither opened the valve. So before we quit for the night I decided to supply vacuum to it(the black side) to see it if stays open which it did. Then I took it for a test drive and damn did the car move! So until I figure out whats going on with the rpm switch thats how I have it setup. Its snowing today so I am waiting until tomorrow to mess with it again. Also if the weather is good I'll be taking it to the track december 15th to get some new times.

 

It will be faster above 5000 RPMs, but below that it will be slower than with the valve closed.

Which wire are you using on the RPM switch? Which pin did you connect it to on the plug?

 

I'm actually using a window switch. I have the green wire going to the tach, red to the power, black to a ground then a separate black one that goes to the VIAS. Thats how it says to do it in the instructions.

 

Most RPM switches are window switches also, but anyway, are you aware of what this second black wire does? Does it supply power or supply ground? Are you sure you don't have the black wires mixed up?

 

On the RPM Switch the red, green and black wires are all wrapped together. Then the second black wire is separate and the instructions says it drives the external device. Heres the directions. http://harlan-engineering.com/store/...structions.pdf
I'm think the wires aren't making a secure connection to the solenoid. Where could I find a pigtail at?

 

j/w what is that, I never saw one when I did the 00VI on my 95

 

Cant remember the exact name of it but its a part of the evap system. I think the 95's were metal.

 

ok so i just got a 96 5 spd maxima the other day so im new to this but what is an oovi swap?

 

Welcome to the forums. Its swapping a 2000 maxima intake manifold into a 95-99 maxima. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=400691 If you have any other question about your car theres a 90% chance its been asked already so I would search around the forum first.

 

Haha, I guess I am in the 10% category.