power loss w/3.5 swap
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
power loss w/3.5 swap
I have about 10k miles on my 3.5 swap now and lately my power's been sucking. I have cattman gen III headers and a SSIM. The low end feels ok, I get a huge dip around 3500 where I can barely get the RPMs to rise, then it feels ok, but not great from 4500 to redline
I just bought an OBD-II capture/scanner. I'm getting only 5deg of ignition timing at idle, but as soon as I blip the throttle it sticks around 40 deg at just about every RPM.
Could I have a broken dowel pin where the sprockets could have shifted?
My gas mileage has been sucking really bad, but that could be because of apocalyptic seattle traffic.
I just bought an OBD-II capture/scanner. I'm getting only 5deg of ignition timing at idle, but as soon as I blip the throttle it sticks around 40 deg at just about every RPM.
Could I have a broken dowel pin where the sprockets could have shifted?
My gas mileage has been sucking really bad, but that could be because of apocalyptic seattle traffic.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,816
From: Interior Alaska
The oil level's fine.
The TPS looks to be giving me troubles. The TPS reading was at 0% at idle. If I adjusted the TPS, then the timing goes up to around 25deg. The problem is that no matter how I adjust the TPS, I can't get the full 100% range. It'll be 0-90% or 10-100%. I'm using the modded 3.5 TB.
Under WOT, the timing is at 15deg.
I also found that I was getting a O2 sensor code and that gnd wire for the O2 sensor in front was broken. So that probably explains the mpg.
The TPS looks to be giving me troubles. The TPS reading was at 0% at idle. If I adjusted the TPS, then the timing goes up to around 25deg. The problem is that no matter how I adjust the TPS, I can't get the full 100% range. It'll be 0-90% or 10-100%. I'm using the modded 3.5 TB.
Under WOT, the timing is at 15deg.
I also found that I was getting a O2 sensor code and that gnd wire for the O2 sensor in front was broken. So that probably explains the mpg.
That sounds about right. Since the TB is slightly opened at idle to make up for the loss of the IACV the range of motion relative to stock will be limited. It's always best to calibrate the TPS to the WOT voltage/resistance specification when you've adjusted the throttle stop screw.
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