Donor 2001 dek engine $250

00vi setup:
All 5th gen parts


Today i took most of the parts i need for the swap. There are still a few things i need to get before i can start the swap.

1. Gaskets for Valve cover & lower manifold
2. jb weld california swirl valves
3. new o- rings for injectors
4. figure out about the egr( there was no egr on dek) it just had a plug in the header and a egr block off on the Upper IM see next post to see what i am talking about.
5. figure out how to run all the vac lines
6. fuel rail adapter iirc i need a adapter
7. Rpm switch(Still waiting on EU harnesses ect ect)


Here are some more pics



The hardware part seems pretty straight forward to me. Its just all the vaccums that hook up to the Upper IM. Defently will be studying the 2001 FSM tonight.

I know some of you will ask why didnt i just swap the whole engine out. Well for one i dont have a engine lift. Second off its freaking 4 degrees out i want to stay in the garage vs me going and renting one bring it into my garage and go back and return it while i get charged x amount of dollars. plus i am lazy I have already spent to much time in this artic crap we are having

I plan on doing the actucal swap monday since i have it off

I am posting this to see if anyone thinks i am missing anything and any questions comments ect ect would be much appricated.

 

Alot of these questions i have on here i probley will figure out myself but i defently want others opinions (good or bad)

 

first off.. look in this section (all motor) for a guy named tatanko.. go to his website.. any question you might have about any type of setup for the VI is on his website.. any other questions you might have im sure we can answer.. but im guessing you are going to use the 5th gen injectors.. if so you will have to re-wire the injector plugs into your 4th gen wiring harness.. again on tatankos website.. also what IACV are you going to use.. if im not mistaken i dont think the 5th gen works.. one you have clearance issues.. two i think itll throw a code.. so if youre going to use a 4th gen IACV you will need the adapter plate.. to setup a remote mount.. and then also a block off plate for the 5th gen IACV (on the bottom of the TB).. and as you have already mentioned (unless you plan on running no egr) then you will need to get a EGR guide tube.. pics of these pieces are on tatankos website also.. along with a wiring diagram for a RPM switch once you get one of those.. oh yeah.. and not to be the bearer of bad news.. but its gonna take you longer than just monday to finish this swap.. especially if youre attempting this for the first time.. all in all if i havent said it enough.. READ t]Tatanko's Website! itll help you out alot

 

oh yeah.. nice find on the motor.. thats a badass deal

oh btw Tatanko's Website

 

why not drop the whole engine into your car...

 

READ the post..

 

belive me i have done quite a bit of reading. I have so many freakin bookmarked pages for 00vi swap its getting rediculious. my big problem is i skim alot!! there are just so many threads on 00vi it one big cluster. i remeber going to tatankos site and just like i stated earlier i just skimmed it but thank you for reminding me about his site. it had to of been about a month since i visited it. i already answered my own question about the egr. there is none on 01 dek .

i know you can hook up the 5th gen iacv ie conectors and what not but i didnt know it has a clearance issue. i will search and figure out what others have done. cause im pretty sure it has been done.

Thanks for the input

 

oh yeah and that was a steal on that engine i was worried someone else might of picked it up before i did. i was pretty lucky to find that locally as well. the guy had a 3.5 there as well. i thought he was giving me that 3.5 mistaking it for a 03 or something but he gave me a 01 dek.

 

my main concern about the whole confusion on vaccum lines are what do i hook up from the 4th gen to the 00vi

 

the vacuum lines are simple given all of the resources available on this site. look through ceasar's thread. everything you need to knwo is in there. in fact, 97Maximus made a very helpful vacuum diagram that I printed out and brought with me while working on it. I had it all done in 2 days. Also, if you pull the 5th gen fuel rail with the fuel damper, you won't need any fuel rail adapters.

you can remove all of the unnecessary stuff from the top of the intake manifold. The only hard lines that you need to keep are the two L shaped ones in the middle of the manifold. One will go to your PCV valve (use the 20001 rear valve cover, coil packs and and PCV valve to make life easier). Off the top of my head, use the vacuum nipple on the far left for your brake booster, follow 97Maximus' diagram to connect the 2nd one from the left (I can't remember offhand where it goes to), connect the 3rd one from the left to the PCV valve, and use the one on the far right (on the top by the TB) for your EVAP - I think you will have to drill it out and tap in a larger nipple for this since the EVAP hose is too large (mine came with a new brass nipple preinstalled). Also, drill and tap a new nipple in that area for the 4th gen IACV if you choose to use it.

Link to ceasar's thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=373884

97Maximus' diagram is in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=377107

Good luck man. keep us updated on your progress

 

1. Go 5h gen IACV. No codes, clean install, and worth the few disadvantages it brings(KRZZ350 knows them, I forget)

2. Remove your EGR, leave the temp sensor plugged in and you wont throw a code.

3. Vacuum lines(from left of manifold to right):
Nipple on very left of manifold, use it for the brake booster. Stock hose goes right to it.
Small nipple, this came out of the spider rails under the TB Used spare small hose and the associated top brass bracket from the DEK.
Nipple next to little nipple, PCV connection. Used spare hose and the same bracket from DEK.
One on top by TB, I used it for EVAP, installed a new larger nipple(see here)
One on side by TB, not used for most applications.

4. You will need a fuel rail adapter. I think ajcool2 may still have his weaponR set for sale. See here for his thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=542192

Hope that helps, GL with the swap!

EDIT: Just a heads up, I highly doubt you will have a ride to work on Tues. The chances of issues are just too high. Also, you need something to tune it with, you will run rich.

 

lol in my research today i found that vaccum diagram made by maximus that helps out alot thanks. well i will be able to work on the car tommorrow. Hopefully i can get all the 4th gen parts out is what i am shooting for and maybe installl lower IM and fuel rail. it all depends on how well i will do. Taking it off the dek was pretty much a breeze but then again i took it all off in the back of my dads truck bed vs me taking off hood putting my hands in tight places ect ect. i know its not easy at least for some of us.

I also got my gaskets today. I think i overpaid for them but thats ok it was more of a convience thing if anything. 65 for both. Thats what i get for slackin on buying parts.
i will defently post pics up of removal of 4th gens parts. I am huge on visuals. That is why i am posting pics and what not for other peoples refences. i know there are like thousands and thousands of threads with pics but i figure if someone can get info off this thread. just want to contribute in anyway since i have recieved so much info from these forums.

 

i will be using the 5th gen iacv. i dont want to wait for a adapter and have it be remote. as stated earlier in this thread though by maximus there is a clearance issue with it. i have done some research and i believe i remove the vaccum gallery below it. does that sound right? or am i totally off.

2pb said ealier on the thread to use the existing fuel damper and i woulnt need a adapter. so what should i do. what is the reasoning behing using the rail adapter is where i am getting at.

I am aware i will be running rich so i defently will be running to get it tuned!

thank you for your input guys

 

There are no clearance issues, just some modifications. Below the TB there is a spider rail system, a set of small tubes on a bracket. IIRC, I either unbolted the bracket(single bolt on the heads) or bent the bracket, or both. Either way, I clear fine.

I am not sure on the rail adapter, I am using the 4th gen LIM.

You will learn very quickly that the install will be easy, but the troubleshooting wont. I can tear down my whole system to the heads in like 20 minutes now from doing it so much. LIM is a quick job, the rails and wiring the injectors is not as easy. The upper end stuff takes more time, more bolts, hoses etc.

GL man, get as much done tomorrow as possible, that way monday will be finishing + troubleshooting.

 

so just i can clear the air and my brain i made a pic. the pic is clickable.



The circled pink i can thrash right?
do i have everything right???

 

[quote=MOHFpro90;6250241]There are no clearance issues, just some modifications. Below the TB there is a spider rail system, a set of small tubes on a bracket. IIRC, I either unbolted the bracket(single bolt on the heads) or bent the bracket, or both. Either way, I clear fine.

Thats what i meant by the vaccum gallery. its all egr stuff correct?

thank you for all the great info and help

 

The stuff circled in pink on the front and left, yes I think you can get rid of them. The stuff on the back of the mani is the EVAP stuff, AFAIK and the 5th gen stuff will work. The 4th gen EVAP system will not have a spot to bolt up to. I just leave mine hanging but it is [relatively] secure.

Vacuum lines look good man +1

 

depending on how the line was cut when the engine was pulled, you may be able to avoid using a fuel rail adapter. looking at this picture of my manifold, for example, you can see that that there was a bunch of excess line left leading into the damper:

All i had to do was slide a clamp over the hose and connect it to my car.

 

ahh ic now. my line is pretty long so i should be good

 

yes all the stuff you circled in pink can go.. just to clear that up

 

didnt get much time to work on it yesterday. Only had enough time to remove all the 4th gen stuff. I did it in about 2 hours. Probley would of done it quicker but i lost my deep socket 12mm. went to wal-mart to buy a whole set of metric sockets and i check in my sweatshirt pocket and of course the 12mm is in there. i didnt even have anything to get the egr bolt pipe off the manifold. so i just took a saw zaw to it so i could remove the whole egr. i will be pluging that up. will be back at it today

 

looking good so far man.. oh yeah.. and when you go to buy vacuum hose.. get a couple of t's and id say a good 3-4 ft of hose.. just curious.. how do you plan on plugging the egr?

 

i will probley do what i think i seen ajcool did and jb weld a penny in there. so i got everything hooked up and it wont start. im not sure if i wired up my injectors correctly here is a pic



It just doesnt seem to get the gas it needs or something. im calling it a day today. maybe ill be able to work on it tommorrow(call in sick) we will see

 

Well the injectors are wired up correctly solid to solid and striped to striped according to ceasars thread. hmmmm maybe i just need a break from it for a while i have been at it for a good 5 hours without breaking. maybe i can clear my mind up more. just gotta say this though its alot harder than i really though! lol

 

Can you get a video of trying to start it? What does it do? Start then die? Not start at all?

 

No downfalls, it's far superior, and I can finally say from firsthand knowledge it works, twas a bum one on 99blk's kit, big ups azsnap for this. As for someone mentioning clearance. Just do away with the hole metal vacuum gallery from the 4th gen, that stupid thing is only like 2" X 4" but for some reason when you take it out you're engine bay room and ease of working on becomes easier and bigger by like ten-fold

to the expect issues part.

Re: vacuum lines. Easiest way to do it is track the metal hardlines and use tape to mark on each selenoid nipple which of the three possibilities it goes to, they are A: the Device. (egr evap etc etc)B: Vacuum C: resonator side. However even if you get confuzzled and lose all way you can simply look on the bottom side of your hood and figure it out from there, it has a vacuum diagram for your specific emmissions.

As for swirl valves, JBweld for the loss, read mohfpro's thread (which is kick-*** btw) for details on the easy and better alternative.

 

Yeah, +2. I have no issues with mine.

I should have removed it but I guess I never thought about it. Haha, nice input.

Thank you

I still need to upload the rest of the pictures

 

no start at all. i am going to re do all the vaccums with the damn vaccum gallery out of there! that was a pia.i started to rip the stuff out tonight but i was getting tired and hungry! This is what the mess looks like now.


as for the iavc for some reason i do not have enough slack from the wire harness to make it to the iavc i am sure its something simple that i am doing wrong.

anyways i probley take a day off in the middle of the week to mess with it again and go up to the store to get some more hoses and what not. pretty sure its a vaccum problem.

 

I can't tell from your pictures, but did you ground your injectors at the timing cover? The injectors and the knock sensor are grounded at the UIM. Since your new IM is plastic, they have to be run to a suitable grounding location. This is an old picture of how I did mine. You might want to use a thicker wire but it's all I had on hand:

 

^Agreed, check those grounds. Wont even crank if those arent good(part of ecu or something)^

For the IACV and wire, you have to remove the plastic clips holding the wire bulk down on the left of the bay. Dont be afraid to man handle it. Takes some work to get it loose/manageable.

 

i have those two grounds grounded to the fuel rail. i took off that plastic piece that holds the the main harness. for the iacv are you talking about by the timing cover? is there a thing holding the harness there? could it be possible if my vaccums are not hooked up correctly that it wont start? either which way when i start working on it again i am going to redo all of the vaccums

 

So, wait. You don't have the iacv plugged in? I chose to rip that entire rear section of the harness, all the way over to the passanger side where it meets up with main, just rip it all apart and pull everything out and re-tape & rerout the coil-packs tps iacv etc etc etc individually and in groups of 2 or 3 instead of mostly one bundle of wires. Or just cut back at the end and stretch it/re-route it.

RE: starting woes

Check grounds, check the large connector on passanger side rear, check the underhood fuses. check the dashboard fuses. My first suspicion would be a blown underhood fuse for eccs.

 

+1 on the fuses. Also, verify that your fuel lines are connected properly and that they're not kinked. Fuel should enter through the damper, and exit through the FPR to the fuel tank return line. Vacuum to the FPR is also important. I don't know if you really need vacuum at the fuel damper, but I ran it there anyway

 

im pretty sure that i have my fuel right but i will double check all of my conections.i didnt go though all my fuses hopefully i just have a popped fuse that would be great but im sure ill run into another problem i know the fuel line that enters the fuel rail is pretty long so i might shorten it up. iam getting fuel in the rail and what not.but probley saturday or sunday i will check over all my connections



i have a question that is a little off topic but it kinda pertains to all this. i just got my emanage today. should i tune right after the 00vi swap or should i tune after i put in the 00vi and eu? i know i will need to put it in for the activation on the vias but i just dont know about the whole tuning thing

thanks for all the help guys!

 

The quicker you tune the quicker you shall go

............and the more gas you will save!

However, don't even think about installing the EU until you get it running of course, I normally wouldn't feel the need to say that but somebody did that

Good point 2pb, the FPR is the one by the firewall, that one goes to the return line, the one on the front connects to the fuel filter.

 

no i defently would not mix the two projects up that would just be a huge mess! i plan on trying to make a plug and play harness like this one
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385842
to (hopefully) make the install easier and vigirously reading dandymax write up

 

so ill be back at it today.

im going to pull all fuses to check them. and check all my injector wiring and other wiring. redo vaccum and fuel lines. if this all seems to be ok should i start to look at the dek coil packs? would it be possible that all of the ones i pulled are no good causing me not to start??

 

omg im a dumb ****. i had the fuel lines hooked up the wrong way!! The idle was fine its just when i reved it there was nothing there. just bogged. maybe the MAF??? or coils?? i switched out the 5th gen coils for the 4th but i dont really have them in there that well so i will switch them back out with the 5th gens and give it another shot!im just happy that it started!!! yay!!!!!!!!

 

nah man, nothing dumb about that at all. boneheaded mistakes happen to all of us at some point. I actually was hesitant in suggesting you check that but I figured why not, b/c it can happen
For example, pretty sure every 4th gen owner has been by the window lockout switch at one point or another, I know for damn sure I have.

Glad you got it going!!!! Give it another shot with the 5th gen coils. My first startup, the coils that came with my kit were shot, I had a similar problem. Temp. put my 4th gen coils back in and I drove it home.

 

well took her for a test drive. Drove pretty much exactly the same how i did before the swap. my idle was running high before the swap and is now but i can serously live with it! i dont have the vias solenoid hooked up yet. since i am hooking up eu hopefully sometime next week. thinking about using my nitrous arming switch that is already wired up and manually switch it over.

other than that it ran like a champ!
will post pics later on tonight