Yes I've searched, and I know the y-pipe hits the x-member but I can't find the exact thread...

I'd be willing to modify these to fit my 4th gen over the regular unequal length Y's for sound. Plus I have a Cali spec Max so ditching the headers has more of an incentive for me.

Here are some pics of Altima vs. Maxima headers


^^^Altima


^^^Maxima

Thoughts?

 

The subframe on the Altima is different from the 4/5 gens like you said. It's more like the 6th gen subframe, that's why the y-pipes are similar for the Altima and 6th gen. Either way, ditch them gaskets.

Found what you're looking for
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=362937&page=7

 

Damn so even with extensive modification there's no way this could work?

What about these OBX's?

 

PM 95blkmax. He installed ebay altima headers in his car. The rear header flange needed to be relocated and the "y-pipe" needed to be made from scratch at a muffler shop. Ended up costing less than hotshots would have if you could still buy them new.

 

You don't want those OBX pictured on your car. They're not equal length. The pictures you post aren't good comparisons either.

Pic 1= Altima equal length
Pic 2= Maxima NON equal length
Pic 3= Altima NON equal length (I'm guessing)

to nismology. Great job 95BLK did.

 

Nmexmax, the OBX look like equal length. The part behind the Y joint is a loop up to the rear bank. I think.

Anyhow, I dont see a possible way to get those on our cars. I am not sure, but it looks like both of those sets where the flex is, is placed too far towards the drivers side of the car, and for us I think it would hit something...but Im not totally sure.

BTW, equal length FTW.

 

I'm looking at the underside of a 4th gen Max now... I think it will work if I remove the front crossmember

Stock/A32 based headers + Y's keep the exhaust over to the passenger side of the crossmember

Alti/A34 style headers push everything towards the middle

My main concern is what happens where the block meets the tranny... but the Alti headers seem to slope down as well

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....member+purpose

Money is tight this month but next month I think I will take the plunge, and do the full exhaust from the header to the muff

 

No long tube, no care.

 

maybe?

 

he meant the headers, they are as short as the stock ones, which results in less of a top end. long tubes would be like the 1st pic of this thread

 

Werd. Ended up costing around $450 for everything

thank j00

Idk what car you have but last I checked the 4th gen Max only has ONE x-member, so Idk what the front x-member is. And please explain how you plan to drive your car with the "front x-member" removed.. I mean, all it does it hold up most of the weight of the engine/tranny and keep the engine from torquing over when you give gas... yea its not that important, it can be taken out Just busting your chops here, no pun intended, lol.

Exactly.

Ok!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW

^^ are the headers that I used, same seller and everything.

Headers fit like a glove EXCEPT for the Rear header-ypipe flange. It does make contact with the x-member when you put it back on. Making it impossible for the mating flange of any ypipe to meet it, soooo cut it and weld it about 2" higher where the runners actually meet, NOW you have space to work with a ypipe.

Ypipe has to be made from scratch, no getting around that. Mine is a custom 2x2" into a 1x2.5", stainless steel, mandrel bent, EQUAL LENGTH'D ypipe. Cost me $275 at the local shop.

Make sure you have plenty of patience, time, and beer. Header installs can be super "fun and relaxing" lol

 

if you're even concidering those headers in the 2nd picture, dont even bother with headers. No long runner primaries (like the 1st pic) no care. Gonna waste time and money just to say you have headers that dont do anything, lol

Long runner primaries, with equal length ypipe, or keep the stock with ypipe.

Do it once, do it right

 

The second ones are for 4th gens which I don't want


Do these hang significantly lower than a regular 4th gen setup?

 

Like i said, the flange from the headers to the ypipe touches the x-member(not on the top, but on the side, almost at the bottom of the x-member), so yes, they hang CONCIDERABLY lower (long-primary runners.... REAL headers).

 

since when do they make long tube headers for a maxima?


unless you guys are just calling anything longer then stock LT's?

 

Basically...

 

an dyou guys had my hopes up

 

unfortunately in the maxima's limited market, this will probably be as long as they come for us unless you go full custom.

 

MB's got more to offer. Take your money elsewhere ..........

 

I think I'm gonna go with some modded Maxima OBX's (equal length loop on back bank, 2.5" outlet+flex)... prob. the best bet

 

Removing the front cross member could trigger a disaster... I mean it is not only support the engine and tranny but it tie up the subframe connector and the front rad support, making the engine bay very tight, just look at the bolt size on the cross member that should tell you how important that piece is. With all the stress & weight of the engine/tranny you could probably brake the engine support easily and I'll let you figure out what can happend at 75 miles per hour. My best advise is if you remove it you'll have to figure out a way to strengten the front end.

 

A bunch of people have done it on their 5th gens

Not to mention of course the crossmember doesn't support the motor, the motor mounts do. Think about it, all the vibration that goes on with the motor, why would they let it rest w/no vibration isolation on a metal beam? You would hear that ****

Front crossmember is to help hold the front end together under loading from the engine and brake torque. Personally I think some kind of x-brace would be better for structural integrity. But I do see the importance of the x-member.

In any case again I'm going with the OBXs most likely as I have a Cali spec car, so headers would be worth my time. I do wanna mod them to have the collectors be equal length and feed a 2.5" downpipe though

 

Yes you are right but the Xmember is attached to the sub-frame connector and the engine support is attached to it, if I'm not mistaking.

You have to see the cross member as a structural component, I cant imagine a front collision without the x-member, that could lead to = RIP.

I would suggest that if you remove it, you got to strengthen the area some how for you own safety.

Good luck and feel free to pm me for any questions, I'd be more than happy to help you.

 

Anyone who just straight up removes the crossmember =

That would be about one of the dumbest things you could possibly do to your car.

 

The front of the car would really get weakened, but I definitely understand why it can be appealing to remove it, but if this part is removed it must be replaced by something else, it could be by a brace but it will have to be has strong has the Xmember in order to keep this car solid and as safe as possible. Dont get me wrong this is feasible, but it require many tools, materials and skills that the average person doesn't have nor have access. My best guess would be to replace the Xmember by another custom made parts from a solid block of aircraft alu... Wait let me just take some measurement since my Xmember is readily removed, I'll get back to this thread later this afternoon, that's giving me some idea... feasible but expensive.

 

Ok, so instead of reinventing the wheel, why not just go Cattman or 95BLK some ebay units.

 

O...M...G...

take out your x-member and just try to start the engine. The starter alone will cause the engine to torque itself quite interestingly. If you manage to get it started and still there, please, try driving down the block shifting gears... I'd love to see how long the tranny mount and timing cover engine mount last (actually their throughbolts as a matter of fact). A WOT shift should be enough to rip the mounts and cause the engine/tranny to fall out, that would be one very interesting video )

If you want to remove your x-member, yes it can be done but you'll have to fabricate custom brackets to support the engine from the motor mount through-bolts over to the x-member mounting bolt hole locations at the subframe and the radiator support.

Basically you're doing alot of useless crap when you can simply do what I did, which will for sure be cheaper to do than trying to reinvent a drivetrain mounting system.

But whatever, to each their own

 

I'm gonna keep the x-member and go with OBXs, I don't want you guys losing sleep over this

 

These is an Advanced forum, we lose sleep over anything. If you don't lose sleep over this, you don't belong here.

 

You will regret going with the OBX's.

 

I think I'm gonna go with a Fed spec front header and a custom or modded WSP y-pipe

 

going equal length?

 

Only way to roll unless that Pontiac sound turns you on.

 

This man knows...

 

Did you take any pictures of the interference before you went custom? If the interference is minor, then maybe the X-member could be notched w/ a plate welded on to it to maintain it's structural strength (like some of the forward y-pipe guys have done).

If I understand you correctly, these headers interfere before the 2-1 collector? That's sort of a shame, but I may give them a shot this summer anyway and customize them like you did, but w/ 3 in ID after the collector.

 

Not specifically GL man let us know how it turns out.

 

You could get the really cheap ones and have a good exhaust shop fab up the rest. One 2-1 collector and ur good to go.

 

Yup, that would be the plan. I'd still like to know where exactly along the piping (and the X-member) the interference occurred.

 

The headers are too long, like, the primaries touch the cross member in the rear from what I hear.

If someone made a cheap set of long-runner headers I would go with those.

 

If anyone made a cheap/quality anything, I'd buy it too.