Ok will I have to redo all the timing stuff?

 

Well I had help when putting the main chain on wanted to make sure I did not screw it up, well Darryl put it on but it was not as hard as I thought it would be.

I ran into the same problem with the motor not being at tdc so we line up the secondary chains put water pump guides on. primed the tensior compressed it put the pin in to hold it in place, lined up the main chain on the cam sprockets and turned the crank to tdc so it lined up with the colored chain link

step back made sure all the colored links were lined up and the secondary chain were still lined up with pulled the pin from the tensior check everything again

not really sure how to explain it but there are these little tabs you can use as referance marks to make sure the crank and cam sprockets are in the correct location turn the motor by hand a few times and check everything again

I am sure someone else can explain alot better than me so maybe someone will chime in

 

As stated above....
There are tabs on the rear timing cover to assits in alignment
Notice the location of the arrows & discolored timing chain links.(they both point to the tabs on the rear timing cover).
Left side

Right side




There is a line on the oil pump @ about 10 oclock.In order for the #1 piston to be @ TDC,the woodruf key on the crank should be aligned with the line on the oil pump

Align (timing marks)
Prime/release (tensioner)
Rotate (assembly)
Be sure to post start up & WOT flyby vid

 

Side note I just noticed the 3.5 timing chain tensioner..
I didnt know you could use it with te 3.0 equipment?

 

Hey ^ post my startup on youtube so I can link it to my cardomain

 

Good work so far, AJ. I may just have to have you build me one

 

we're sharing the same thoughts

 

Ok thanks for the help guys hopefully I can get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll try to get a pic of how it is currently and after I align it the way you guys say. I'll be glad when this part is over haha.

Since I've put most of the timing stuff on and and taken it off about 4 times so far it doesnt seem to bad. Especially once you start understanding how things work and what everything is. I can actually read those 3.5 swap thread and know what they are talking about lol. Maxsapphire is at a point that when I ask for a certain part she knows what it is which is cool. She cant wait to take it to the track. We will definatly have vids up once everything is done, of course she'll get the first drive.

Edit: ONLY USE THE 3.0 TENSIONER

 

Done

Maybe Ishouldnt have thrown away that tensioner.lol Good to hear though

 

I'm definitely paying attention to this thread. Thanks for updating it every so often.

Messing with the timing components can seem scary at first, but if you have the ability to read the FSM and understand it, then it's surprisingly pretty simple. Just take your time and follow each step. Once you have everything together, turn the engine over manually several times to make sure it rotates freely.

I'm planning on going a little deeper into my engine. If I have it on the stand, I might as well do as much stuff as I can to it like seals, HGs, cams, valve springs, rod bolts, port work, etc.

I can't wait to get my progress thread started! I don't want to start it until I have an engine though. That way people will know I'm serious. I hope to buy my engine tomorrow. We'll see.

 

I just finshed my 3.5 swap and it is great!!! put in a 2008 engine from a maxima.. had 491miles on it when I put it in.. I hooked everything up and no check engine light on does anyone know if anyone else has done a 3.5 swap and had no check engine light I have EGR and EVAP system complety hooked up.. anyways any help or questions you have ask away..

 

No check engine light?? Good job. You got a dream swap. I'm sure I'll be posting more questions here as I go along.

 

I just triple checked the picture from the writeup and its a 3.0 tensioner. I guess its a good thing I checked again. I'll edit my post to keep good info here.

 

I'm sure its going to be a beast once its done.

 

PLEASSSEEE tell me this is right.

 

 

all looks good from here sir. just be srue that you did in fact prime that primary chain tensioner with plenty oil. LAST thing you need is for there to be slack and you end up with a chain skipping a tooth at startup. Not trying to jinx it or anything [*knock on wood*] but that is a very important thing to do that will save you huge headaches down the road

 

pic's please and what did you do with the egr

did you install the 4gen egr or did you rig it up somehow

 

update!?

 

I'll be working on it tonight. I've been working late and havent had a chance to work on it this week. I need to prime that main tensioner, put the last chain guide on and install the outer timing cover. Then put everything else back together.

 

The outer timing cover is on and all the timing is set. I know it took a long time to do but I wanted to make sure everything was right so I dont run into any problems later. We'll be putting everything back together during the week. My goal is to have it running before november 9th.

 

Also if anyone is planning the swap in the future and want pictures of anything just let me know.

 

looks good

 

In your picture of the chain tensioner, I dont see the piston pushing on the guide? Make sure that piston didn't fall out. Also, I would recommend buying a new tensioner if you can afford it. 2 months after my swap my tensioner began to go out. I really did not want to have to pull the motor again... Looking great though!
Zack

 

Aj, never looked in this thread before now and...I bet you're glad you dont have to do this in your apt parking lot.

Nevertheless, nice job man. Really like all of the pictures! Good luck.

 

The piston is there its just not sticking out. Its really tight up against the guide. Would I be able to tell if a tensioner is good or bad before its all in the car? When I primed it it pushes in and comes out smoothly.

 

Indeed I am my friend lol. I need hurry up and finish this because it is getting really cold.

 

I have never seen that. The piston is always pushing out on the guide. I would get a new one regardless. They arent very expensive.
Zack

 

Got a question. Is there any reason why most people decide to shave the block instead of just rewiring the 3.5 CPS?

 

I turned the assembly and it did move out as I turned it around. I think I'll wait and see how it works once everything is back together.

 

yo man i need help with my swap

 

What part do you need help with?

 

Whats the Est. time until the start up youtube vid? lol

 

I'm really considering doing a partial swap into my 2000. The only parts I seem to not understand is how/what sensors are hooked up and what you need to do to stay 5spd.

Care to clarify this for me?

Also, how did you get no codes SouthFLMaxTech?????

 

LOL Dont know but it will be in the car by sunday.

 

I just printed page EL-318 and EL-319 from my FSM and highlighted the sensors I'll need to bring over from the 3.0. I'll list them and if anyone sees anything missing let me know and I'll add it here.

3.0 02 sensors
3.0 Rear 02 sensor
3.0 TPS
3.0 IACV
3.0 CPS (Phase)
3.0 Engine coolant temp sensor
3.0 MAF
3.0 IATS
3.0 Map Baro solenoid
3.0 CPS (POS)
3.0 Knock sensor
3.0 CPS (REF)

I'm actually going to use the 3.5 CPS (POS) sensor and wire it up. My question is do I still need to switch over the AT driveplate if I do this?

 

So all the 3.0 sensors fit on the 3.5 w/o modification? The only one you have to modify for is when using the 3.0 cps?

This seems almost too easy...

 

Yup so far I've just unbolted them from the 3.0 and bolted them on the 3.5.

 

well its 12am sunday morning well is it in???lol

 

I reused all 3.0 sensors, but then again I used the 3.0 upper and lower pan also