VQ35 Swap Progress Thread
10-12-2008, 11:21 AM
#82
Well I had help when putting the main chain on wanted to make sure I did not screw it up, well Darryl put it on but it was not as hard as I thought it would be.
I ran into the same problem with the motor not being at tdc so we line up the secondary chains put water pump guides on. primed the tensior compressed it put the pin in to hold it in place, lined up the main chain on the cam sprockets and turned the crank to tdc so it lined up with the colored chain link
step back made sure all the colored links were lined up and the secondary chain were still lined up with pulled the pin from the tensior check everything again
not really sure how to explain it but there are these little tabs you can use as referance marks to make sure the crank and cam sprockets are in the correct location turn the motor by hand a few times and check everything again
I am sure someone else can explain alot better than me so maybe someone will chime in
I ran into the same problem with the motor not being at tdc so we line up the secondary chains put water pump guides on. primed the tensior compressed it put the pin in to hold it in place, lined up the main chain on the cam sprockets and turned the crank to tdc so it lined up with the colored chain link
step back made sure all the colored links were lined up and the secondary chain were still lined up with pulled the pin from the tensior check everything again
not really sure how to explain it but there are these little tabs you can use as referance marks to make sure the crank and cam sprockets are in the correct location turn the motor by hand a few times and check everything again
I am sure someone else can explain alot better than me so maybe someone will chime in
10-12-2008, 12:43 PM
#83
As stated above....
There are tabs on the rear timing cover to assits in alignment
Notice the location of the arrows & discolored timing chain links.(they both point to the tabs on the rear timing cover).
Left side
Right side
There is a line on the oil pump @ about 10 oclock.In order for the #1 piston to be @ TDC,the woodruf key on the crank should be aligned with the line on the oil pump
Align (timing marks)
Prime/release (tensioner)
Rotate (assembly)
Be sure to post start up & WOT flyby vid
There are tabs on the rear timing cover to assits in alignment
Notice the location of the arrows & discolored timing chain links.(they both point to the tabs on the rear timing cover).
Left side
Right side
There is a line on the oil pump @ about 10 oclock.In order for the #1 piston to be @ TDC,the woodruf key on the crank should be aligned with the line on the oil pump
Align (timing marks)
Prime/release (tensioner)
Rotate (assembly)
Be sure to post start up & WOT flyby vid
Last edited by accordingtou; 10-12-2008 at 12:45 PM.
10-13-2008, 02:58 PM
#88
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Ok thanks for the help guys hopefully I can get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll try to get a pic of how it is currently and after I align it the way you guys say. I'll be glad when this part is over haha.
Since I've put most of the timing stuff on and and taken it off about 4 times so far it doesnt seem to bad. Especially once you start understanding how things work and what everything is. I can actually read those 3.5 swap thread and know what they are talking about lol. Maxsapphire is at a point that when I ask for a certain part she knows what it is which is cool. She cant wait to take it to the track. We will definatly have vids up once everything is done, of course she'll get the first drive.
Edit: ONLY USE THE 3.0 TENSIONER
Since I've put most of the timing stuff on and and taken it off about 4 times so far it doesnt seem to bad. Especially once you start understanding how things work and what everything is. I can actually read those 3.5 swap thread and know what they are talking about lol. Maxsapphire is at a point that when I ask for a certain part she knows what it is which is cool. She cant wait to take it to the track. We will definatly have vids up once everything is done, of course she'll get the first drive.
Edit: ONLY USE THE 3.0 TENSIONER
Last edited by ajcool2; 10-13-2008 at 08:43 PM.
10-13-2008, 03:12 PM
#89
Done
Maybe Ishouldnt have thrown away that tensioner.lol Good to hear though
Ok thanks for the help guys hopefully I can get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll try to get a pic of how it is currently and after I align it the way you guys say. I'll be glad when this part is over haha.
I used the 3.5 tensioner because thats what tavarish did in his writeup. I had to double check it after I put it on myself.
Since I've put most of the timing stuff on and and taken it off about 4 times so far it doesnt seem to bad. Especially once you start understanding how things work and what everything is. I can actually read those 3.5 swap thread and know what they are talking about lol. Maxsapphire is at a point that when I ask for a certain part she knows what it is which is cool. She cant wait to take it to the track. We will definatly have vids up once everything is done, of course she'll get the first drive.
I used the 3.5 tensioner because thats what tavarish did in his writeup. I had to double check it after I put it on myself.
Since I've put most of the timing stuff on and and taken it off about 4 times so far it doesnt seem to bad. Especially once you start understanding how things work and what everything is. I can actually read those 3.5 swap thread and know what they are talking about lol. Maxsapphire is at a point that when I ask for a certain part she knows what it is which is cool. She cant wait to take it to the track. We will definatly have vids up once everything is done, of course she'll get the first drive.
10-13-2008, 05:15 PM
#90
I'm definitely paying attention to this thread. Thanks for updating it every so often.
Messing with the timing components can seem scary at first, but if you have the ability to read the FSM and understand it, then it's surprisingly pretty simple. Just take your time and follow each step. Once you have everything together, turn the engine over manually several times to make sure it rotates freely.
I'm planning on going a little deeper into my engine. If I have it on the stand, I might as well do as much stuff as I can to it like seals, HGs, cams, valve springs, rod bolts, port work, etc.
I can't wait to get my progress thread started! I don't want to start it until I have an engine though. That way people will know I'm serious. I hope to buy my engine tomorrow. We'll see.
Messing with the timing components can seem scary at first, but if you have the ability to read the FSM and understand it, then it's surprisingly pretty simple. Just take your time and follow each step. Once you have everything together, turn the engine over manually several times to make sure it rotates freely.
I'm planning on going a little deeper into my engine. If I have it on the stand, I might as well do as much stuff as I can to it like seals, HGs, cams, valve springs, rod bolts, port work, etc.
I can't wait to get my progress thread started! I don't want to start it until I have an engine though. That way people will know I'm serious. I hope to buy my engine tomorrow. We'll see.
10-13-2008, 08:30 PM
#91
I just finshed my 3.5 swap and it is great!!! put in a 2008 engine from a maxima.. had 491miles on it when I put it in.. I hooked everything up and no check engine light on does anyone know if anyone else has done a 3.5 swap and had no check engine light I have EGR and EVAP system complety hooked up.. anyways any help or questions you have ask away..
10-13-2008, 08:36 PM
#92
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I just finshed my 3.5 swap and it is great!!! put in a 2008 engine from a maxima.. had 491miles on it when I put it in.. I hooked everything up and no check engine light on does anyone know if anyone else has done a 3.5 swap and had no check engine light I have EGR and EVAP system complety hooked up.. anyways any help or questions you have ask away..
Good job. You got a dream swap. I'm sure I'll be posting more questions here as I go along.
. I guess its a good thing I checked again. I'll edit my post to keep good info here.
10-13-2008, 08:43 PM
#94
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I'm definitely paying attention to this thread. Thanks for updating it every so often.
Messing with the timing components can seem scary at first, but if you have the ability to read the FSM and understand it, then it's surprisingly pretty simple. Just take your time and follow each step. Once you have everything together, turn the engine over manually several times to make sure it rotates freely.
I'm planning on going a little deeper into my engine. If I have it on the stand, I might as well do as much stuff as I can to it like seals, HGs, cams, valve springs, rod bolts, port work, etc.
I can't wait to get my progress thread started! I don't want to start it until I have an engine though. That way people will know I'm serious. I hope to buy my engine tomorrow. We'll see.
Messing with the timing components can seem scary at first, but if you have the ability to read the FSM and understand it, then it's surprisingly pretty simple. Just take your time and follow each step. Once you have everything together, turn the engine over manually several times to make sure it rotates freely.
I'm planning on going a little deeper into my engine. If I have it on the stand, I might as well do as much stuff as I can to it like seals, HGs, cams, valve springs, rod bolts, port work, etc.
I can't wait to get my progress thread started! I don't want to start it until I have an engine though. That way people will know I'm serious. I hope to buy my engine tomorrow. We'll see.
10-19-2008, 09:23 PM
#97
all looks good from here sir. just be srue that you did in fact prime that primary chain tensioner with plenty oil. LAST thing you need is for there to be slack and you end up with a chain skipping a tooth at startup. Not trying to jinx it or anything [*knock on wood*] but that is a very important thing to do that will save you huge headaches down the road
10-20-2008, 04:57 PM
#98
I just finshed my 3.5 swap and it is great!!! put in a 2008 engine from a maxima.. had 491miles on it when I put it in.. I hooked everything up and no check engine light on does anyone know if anyone else has done a 3.5 swap and had no check engine light I have EGR and EVAP system complety hooked up.. anyways any help or questions you have ask away..
did you install the 4gen egr or did you rig it up somehow
10-27-2008, 08:12 AM
#101
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The outer timing cover is on and all the timing is set. I know it took a long time to do but I wanted to make sure everything was right so I dont run into any problems later. We'll be putting everything back together during the week. My goal is to have it running before november 9th.
10-28-2008, 09:38 PM
#104
In your picture of the chain tensioner, I dont see the piston pushing on the guide? Make sure that piston didn't fall out. Also, I would recommend buying a new tensioner if you can afford it. 2 months after my swap my tensioner began to go out. I really did not want to have to pull the motor again... Looking great though!
Zack
Zack
10-29-2008, 08:05 AM
#105
Aj, never looked in this thread before now and...I bet you're glad you dont have to do this in your apt parking lot. 
Nevertheless, nice job man. Really like all of the pictures! Good luck.
Nevertheless, nice job man. Really like all of the pictures! Good luck.
10-29-2008, 08:10 AM
#106
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In your picture of the chain tensioner, I dont see the piston pushing on the guide? Make sure that piston didn't fall out. Also, I would recommend buying a new tensioner if you can afford it. 2 months after my swap my tensioner began to go out. I really did not want to have to pull the motor again... Looking great though!
Zack
Zack
11-08-2008, 08:35 PM
#113
11-20-2008, 12:06 PM
#114
I'm really considering doing a partial swap into my 2000. The only parts I seem to not understand is how/what sensors are hooked up and what you need to do to stay 5spd.
Care to clarify this for me?
Also, how did you get no codes SouthFLMaxTech?????
Care to clarify this for me?
Also, how did you get no codes SouthFLMaxTech?????
11-20-2008, 02:15 PM
#116
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3.0 02 sensors
3.0 Rear 02 sensor
3.0 TPS
3.0 IACV
3.0 CPS (Phase)
3.0 Engine coolant temp sensor
3.0 MAF
3.0 IATS
3.0 Map Baro solenoid
3.0 CPS (POS)
3.0 Knock sensor
3.0 CPS (REF)
I'm actually going to use the 3.5 CPS (POS) sensor and wire it up. My question is do I still need to switch over the AT driveplate if I do this?
Last edited by ajcool2; 11-21-2008 at 10:40 AM.
