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3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread

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Old 11-16-2008, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Dang ! That looks good - don't you feel better now? (You do good work).

So did you use a wire brush and did you do the block and heads as well? The block-head surfaces look clean enough to eat from.
Oh of course. As much of a perfectionist as I am, I don't mind doing a little scrubbing. I used a fine hand held wire brush that didn't scratch the surface. I tried to use a new fine wire wheel, but it scratched it too much. If I had a really soft one, I would have made much better time.

The block surfaces still have marks on them from the head gasket, but I only cared about getting the dirt off of them. They are smooth to the touch and so is the top of the cylinder where the carbon builds up. I was careful not to scratch that head gasket surface.

I haven't touched the heads since removing them. I will clean them up as soon as my valve spring compressor tool and HR valve springs, HR head gaskets, shims, and seals arrive.
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Old 11-16-2008, 09:13 PM
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Great freaking job Aaron! Now THAT is an engine worth showing off
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:14 PM
  #203  
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yeah nice job
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:48 AM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Wiring? I haven't come close to that part of the project yet. Step 1 is to get this engine together on the stand. Then I'll physically install it in the engine bay with the 4th gen crossmember. Then I'll worry about installing the wiring harness.

I already have a dash harness. And I already ordered the engine harness, but it got lost in transit! They claimed they have found it, but I can tell they don't know for sure. I know the package is insured, but it's just a hard part to find, I don't want my money back. I want the harness!

In the meantime, I can go through the harnesses, label and prune out what I don't need like eng92 did.



Yeah. And I don't want to scratch up the top of the pistons. Did you get my PM?
i thought you had the engine harness already???
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:51 AM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
i thought you had the engine harness already???
No. The picture that I posted was of the dash harness that I pulled from the junkyard.

Still working on getting the engine harness.
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:46 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
how the hell would you make it to go backwards once you wire it up???
it's a simple multipole DC motor with a worm gear on the end, hooked to a set of reduction gears, then the mileage tumblers. +12v and it counts forward. -12v and it counts backward. theoretically...
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:00 PM
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looking good, Aaron! So you're pretty much done with the block then? now just onto the heads and stuff... as long as you get that engine harness everything looks to be going smoothly.
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:05 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
looking good, Aaron! So you're pretty much done with the block then? now just onto the heads and stuff... as long as you get that engine harness everything looks to be going smoothly.
The engine harness has been found by the tracer they put on the package. So hopefully, I'll be receiving that within the next few days.

I still have to remove the upper oil pan, install ARP bolts, and clean off all the old RTV on the pans and timing covers. Then I can concentrate on tearing down the heads.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:43 PM
  #209  
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Got the camshafts in today from deluboz. Are the intake camshafts suppose to have dowel pins?

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Old 11-17-2008, 06:43 PM
  #210  
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damn they look sexiness!
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:39 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Got the camshafts in today from deluboz. Are the intake camshafts suppose to have dowel pins?
Hummm... mine looked like this:







Looks like they all had pins - but I took out the 3.0 exhaust pins and put them into the 3.5 intake cams - they're longer.

.
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Hummm... mine looked like this:

Looks like they all had pins - but I took out the 3.0 exhaust pins and put them into the 3.5 intake cams - they're longer.
Thanks. The stock 3.5 intake cams do not have pins. So I just need to remove them and I'll be set since I'm still using the CVTC intake gears.

Did you just hammer them out with a punch?
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Thanks. The stock 3.5 intake cams do not have pins. So I just need to remove them and I'll be set since I'm still using the CVTC intake gears.

Did you just hammer them out with a punch?
Yes - a long punch just fit over the lobe and into the pin hole....
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Yes - a long punch just fit over the lobe and into the pin hole....
So you hammered them out the shorter way (towards the outside of the cam) by sticking the punch in there at an angle?
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
So you hammered them out the shorter way (towards the outside of the cam) by sticking the punch in there at an angle?
Yes. Hummm - is there room to drive them back toward a lobe and still get it out? measurements would be indicated if you try that.

Looking at photos, I think you could drive them inwards.
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:06 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Yes. Hummm - is there room to drive them back toward a lobe and still get it out? measurements would be indicated if you try that.

Looking at photos, I think you could drive them inwards.
There's room lengthwise, but if you were able to get them out with the punch at a slight angle, then I'll do it that way. Much less hammering should be involved. Thanks.

Edit: I just tried it. They came out really easily with a punch and hammer. Thanks.

Last edited by Aaron92SE; 11-17-2008 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
There's room lengthwise, but if you were able to get them out with the punch at a slight angle, then I'll do it that way. Much less hammering should be involved. Thanks.

Edit: I just tried it. They came out really easily with a punch and hammer. Thanks.
Whew......
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:44 PM
  #218  
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Just got this handy little tool from Snap-on today for $35! It's the fastest and easiest way to remove and install valve springs and keepers. All you do is push on it really hard and the keepers pop out and attach to the magnet. To install, just load the keepers in the retainers and push really hard. If you're not strong enough, you can just hit it with a large hammer.

With this tool, you can change all the valve springs on the head in less than 10 minutes.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all


Last edited by Aaron92SE; 11-18-2008 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Just got this handy little tool from Snap-on today for $35! It's the fastest and easiest way to remove and install valve springs and keepers. All you do is push on it really hard and the keepers pop out and attach to the magnet. To install, just load the keepers in the retainers and push really hard. If you're not strong enough, you can just hit it with a large hammer.

With this tool, you can change all the valve springs on the head in less than 10 minutes.

interesting tool, im gonna look into this one.
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:02 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
interesting tool, im gonna look into this one.
Here's the link. The 350z guys love this tool. And after using it, I can see why it's nice to have.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:26 PM
  #221  
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u used it already? PIX!!! :-D lol
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:34 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
u used it already? PIX!!! :-D lol
All I did was remove one stock valve spring and reinstall it to find out how well it works. I probably won't receive my package from Dave B until the end of this week. It will have my new HR valve springs, HR shims, HR head gaskets, HR head bolts, orings, valve cover, VC gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, CVTC gaskets, and other seals.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Here's the link. The 350z guys love this tool. And after using it, I can see why it's nice to have.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all
badass Aaron. thanks buddy.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
it's a simple multipole DC motor with a worm gear on the end, hooked to a set of reduction gears, then the mileage tumblers. +12v and it counts forward. -12v and it counts backward. theoretically...
The Gen 5.5 cluster doesn't have a mechanical mileage indicator.

The mileage is displayed digitally on a LCD, and that data is not reversible.

I think the OP is using the 5.5 Gen cluster.
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Old 11-20-2008, 02:06 AM
  #225  
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It looks like the makings of a beast...

+1
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:13 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
seriously? running the voltage backwards will wind the mileage down on a digital odometer? On a mechanical one like the 3rd gen, yea, but i didn't think that would work on a 5th gen speedo....
Originally Posted by made in china
The Gen 5.5 cluster doesn't have a mechanical mileage indicator.

The mileage is displayed digitally on a LCD, and that data is not reversible.

I think the OP is using the 5.5 Gen cluster.
oh i knew Aaron is using the 5.5gen cluster. I thought Grnmaxdmn was asking how you'd run it back on a 3rd gen odometer. I think all cars after 1999 were required to be digital as per some federal DOT law? To prevent tampering, i believe.
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
oh i knew Aaron is using the 5.5gen cluster. I thought Grnmaxdmn was asking how you'd run it back on a 3rd gen odometer. I think all cars after 1999 were required to be digital as per some federal DOT law? To prevent tampering, i believe.
nope i just asked how you would do it on the 5.5 gen not the 3rd gen.
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
nope i just asked how you would do it on the 5.5 gen not the 3rd gen.
o. my bad.

nice fro, bro.

in that case... i doubt the mileage on a digital one can be modified down. but 90% chance he can just move parts around to get the silver-faced ones.
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
o. my bad.

nice fro, bro.

in that case... i doubt the mileage on a digital one can be modified down. but 90% chance he can just move parts around to get the silver-faced ones.
you like that, eh? lol!
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Old 11-20-2008, 12:18 PM
  #230  
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Got some new toys!



Revup Oil pump:
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Old 11-20-2008, 12:29 PM
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Aaron, i hope you can also make a list of all the aftermarket parts you are using on this motor.
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Old 11-20-2008, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
Aaron, i hope you can also make a list of all the aftermarket parts you are using on this motor.
Yes, I'll do that and update my original post so people won't have to read through this entire thread just to find out the basics.
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Old 11-21-2008, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Yes, I'll do that and update my original post so people won't have to read through this entire thread just to find out the basics.
good you do that.
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:29 AM
  #234  
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Rev up oil pump and ARP rod bolts installed!

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Old 11-21-2008, 09:00 AM
  #235  
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How many times did you torque cycle the rod bolts?
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by nismology
How many times did you torque cycle the rod bolts?
I followed the ARP instructions. 3 times at 28ft-lbs.
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:23 AM
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tsk tsk tsk, instructions are for rookies, shoulda done it at least 5 times
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:34 AM
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His motivations may be dubious, but he's right!

3 torque cycles is almost never enough to get the bolts to stretch enough.
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nismology
His motivations may be dubious, but he's right!

3 torque cycles is almost never enough to get the bolts to stretch enough.
Haha. I know his motivations.

But, why would ARP say 3 if it's not enough?

And would it hurt to go back and do it two more times after they've been sitting overnight?
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Haha. I know his motivations.

But, why would ARP say 3 if it's not enough?

And would it hurt to go back and do it two more times after they've been sitting overnight?
I guess because they assume that we're actually going to measure the bolt stretch to verify.


And no, there's no problem with that. Go for it!
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