My 3.5 cammed DEK swap...long
11-23-2008, 04:26 PM
#1
My 3.5 cammed DEK swap...long
first off i would like to thank 95Blkmax on here, b/c he helped me for every little thing i needed, he is incredibly knowledgable and he is basically the reason i have been able to install almost every thing on my car (clutch, headers, now cams/engine) lol. hes taught me a lot, and helps out tremendously. at one point during the swap he even snapped at me saying "dont listen to the haynes manual, listen to me!", how can u not trust what he says? so thanks again man
anyways, i have never attempted an engine swap. didnt know what i was doing, but i read and researched and decided to go through with it. so i took another noob friend with me to my dads place and we got to work wednesday night. worked all day, all night, with a few breaks to eat, some confusion breaks, and a 2-3 hour nap each morning. im not gonna lie, it is not really hard at all to do after u figure it out and if u take ur time and have all the tools. we finished up saturday very early morning and put the car back on the ground. well, i went to start it up and i cranked after a few seconds i guess cuz i had relieved the fuel pressure, so it took some time. then it cranked, but ran very rough. after about 10 seconds it started clanking horribly. so i shut it off. i then tried it again, it started right up, after 5 seconds clanked again. so i shut it off. and by this time i was very sleepy, very tired, and now very pi$sed off so i just left it alone and went to sleep. 95blkmax then proceeds to tell me its normal for now b/c we just finished swapping it and the oil hasnt traveled through the engine and oil pressure isnt so much at idle, so he said to crank it and rev it to send oil. so i went outside and tried to crank again to do what he tells me, and i get crank but no start. i tried and tried, but nothing. BUT, at one point i gave it full throttle, and almost started, but just died. so im not sure what it is now. i personally believe i messed up the timing somehow b/c of the 3.5 cam install.
now on to specifics, i believe i used all of my sensors and almost all of my own de parts (my own valve covers, egr, evap, im even currently using my mevi b/c im familiar with it and its more likely to not give me any problems). i wanted to find out if it ran well before i started on the dek manifold so that i could narrow down problems. i bypassed the coolant lines on my TB, i bypassed the coolant lines on the back of the mevi, i cleaned up a lot of hoses and pretty much eliminated the vaccuum galleries from my de. i THINK my vaccuum lines are ok, but they may not be. the timing equipment did give me some trouble. if ur looking straight at the timing stuff, the left side cams turned over once by itself so i couldnt figure out what to do. the marks were still lined up to the chain, but before putting on the main chain, the left side was at 12-1 oclock and the right side was at its proper position at 2ish oclock. so i put the main chain on and pulled back slightly on the cams to line up it its marks, so in the end EVERYTHING was lined up to its marks on the chain. i still dont know what other way i could have done it or even how they turned by themselves, so i very well could have done the wrong thing right there. thats why im here...
im going bak to my dads this week to work on it for a few days. so i need as much input before tuesday b/c he doesnt have internet. so a few questions/thoughts/concerns.
1. im confused now b.c the second time around it didnt want to crank but the first couple times it fired right up. so i have mixed thoughts about that.
2. would the car even start up if the timing were off? could it have jumped afterwards?
3. what was the proper way to get those cams back into their proper locations after they turned seperately from everything else?
4. how the freak do u prime the main chain tensioner without it pushing out lol?
5. is it ok that i bypassed those coolant lines on the tb and upper manifold? on the coolant log, a line goes out but then comes right back in near the rear valve cover, is that ok?
6. are there any other ways to adapt the DE fuel lines to the dek fuel rail besides the adaptors sold online? something at advance or home depot?
guys like i said, this was my first attempt, im very proud that i got this far and i feel confident that it will work by the end of the week. imo, i think im gonna have to pull the engine back out and redo the timing, so that sucks, but im praying its something else like a fuel line fell off while i napped or the vaccuum lines are messed up lol, anything to not pull the engine again. thats all my questions for now, i need as much input on how to get it running before i go bak on tuesday, so give me whatcha got.
anyways, i have never attempted an engine swap. didnt know what i was doing, but i read and researched and decided to go through with it. so i took another noob friend with me to my dads place and we got to work wednesday night. worked all day, all night, with a few breaks to eat, some confusion breaks, and a 2-3 hour nap each morning. im not gonna lie, it is not really hard at all to do after u figure it out and if u take ur time and have all the tools. we finished up saturday very early morning and put the car back on the ground. well, i went to start it up and i cranked after a few seconds i guess cuz i had relieved the fuel pressure, so it took some time. then it cranked, but ran very rough. after about 10 seconds it started clanking horribly. so i shut it off. i then tried it again, it started right up, after 5 seconds clanked again. so i shut it off. and by this time i was very sleepy, very tired, and now very pi$sed off so i just left it alone and went to sleep. 95blkmax then proceeds to tell me its normal for now b/c we just finished swapping it and the oil hasnt traveled through the engine and oil pressure isnt so much at idle, so he said to crank it and rev it to send oil. so i went outside and tried to crank again to do what he tells me, and i get crank but no start. i tried and tried, but nothing. BUT, at one point i gave it full throttle, and almost started, but just died. so im not sure what it is now. i personally believe i messed up the timing somehow b/c of the 3.5 cam install.
now on to specifics, i believe i used all of my sensors and almost all of my own de parts (my own valve covers, egr, evap, im even currently using my mevi b/c im familiar with it and its more likely to not give me any problems). i wanted to find out if it ran well before i started on the dek manifold so that i could narrow down problems. i bypassed the coolant lines on my TB, i bypassed the coolant lines on the back of the mevi, i cleaned up a lot of hoses and pretty much eliminated the vaccuum galleries from my de. i THINK my vaccuum lines are ok, but they may not be. the timing equipment did give me some trouble. if ur looking straight at the timing stuff, the left side cams turned over once by itself so i couldnt figure out what to do. the marks were still lined up to the chain, but before putting on the main chain, the left side was at 12-1 oclock and the right side was at its proper position at 2ish oclock. so i put the main chain on and pulled back slightly on the cams to line up it its marks, so in the end EVERYTHING was lined up to its marks on the chain. i still dont know what other way i could have done it or even how they turned by themselves, so i very well could have done the wrong thing right there. thats why im here...
im going bak to my dads this week to work on it for a few days. so i need as much input before tuesday b/c he doesnt have internet. so a few questions/thoughts/concerns.
1. im confused now b.c the second time around it didnt want to crank but the first couple times it fired right up. so i have mixed thoughts about that.
2. would the car even start up if the timing were off? could it have jumped afterwards?
3. what was the proper way to get those cams back into their proper locations after they turned seperately from everything else?
4. how the freak do u prime the main chain tensioner without it pushing out lol?
5. is it ok that i bypassed those coolant lines on the tb and upper manifold? on the coolant log, a line goes out but then comes right back in near the rear valve cover, is that ok?
6. are there any other ways to adapt the DE fuel lines to the dek fuel rail besides the adaptors sold online? something at advance or home depot?
guys like i said, this was my first attempt, im very proud that i got this far and i feel confident that it will work by the end of the week. imo, i think im gonna have to pull the engine back out and redo the timing, so that sucks, but im praying its something else like a fuel line fell off while i napped or the vaccuum lines are messed up lol, anything to not pull the engine again. thats all my questions for now, i need as much input on how to get it running before i go bak on tuesday, so give me whatcha got.
11-23-2008, 06:33 PM
#3
u have to use the coolent lines on the trottle body..i tried to by pass it and it didnt work i forget what was happening but sumthing was screwed up and as soon as i ran the coolent lines back threw the tb it was fixed..soo id just keep the coolant lines on the tb
11-23-2008, 06:49 PM
#4
well, two reasons...
1. i still dont know a way to adapt the fuel rail
2. we all know there are some potential idling issues with the dek, so i wanted to use the mevi to eliminate any potential issues while im getting the engine to run properly. that way theres no "what if its just the oovi" when its really the engine, get it?
its just temporary til i know the engine runs properly.
1. i still dont know a way to adapt the fuel rail
2. we all know there are some potential idling issues with the dek, so i wanted to use the mevi to eliminate any potential issues while im getting the engine to run properly. that way theres no "what if its just the oovi" when its really the engine, get it?
its just temporary til i know the engine runs properly.
11-23-2008, 06:51 PM
#5
ok, ill reroute those lines when i get to the engine. thanks, i want as much info as i can get from this thread, every possibility, every remedy, etc.
11-23-2008, 09:31 PM
#6
1. im confused now b.c the second time around it didnt want to crank but the first couple times it fired right up. so i have mixed thoughts about that.
2. would the car even start up if the timing were off? could it have jumped afterwards?
3. what was the proper way to get those cams back into their proper locations after they turned seperately from everything else?
4. how the freak do u prime the main chain tensioner without it pushing out lol?
5. is it ok that i bypassed those coolant lines on the tb and upper manifold? on the coolant log, a line goes out but then comes right back in near the rear valve cover, is that ok?
6. are there any other ways to adapt the DE fuel lines to the dek fuel rail besides the adaptors sold online? something at advance or home depot?
2. would the car even start up if the timing were off? could it have jumped afterwards?
3. what was the proper way to get those cams back into their proper locations after they turned seperately from everything else?
4. how the freak do u prime the main chain tensioner without it pushing out lol?
5. is it ok that i bypassed those coolant lines on the tb and upper manifold? on the coolant log, a line goes out but then comes right back in near the rear valve cover, is that ok?
6. are there any other ways to adapt the DE fuel lines to the dek fuel rail besides the adaptors sold online? something at advance or home depot?
lol1- That could happen if timing chain skipped a tooth or more in one of those starts
2- If it's off by just one tooth its enough to make it run like crap but it MIGHT actually start. Any further off than that and forget it, it wont start
3- There is no proper way per say, you just turn them until the arrow on the primary sprocket lines up with the corresponding blue link on the big chain. This is actually MUCH easier to do with two people. Have one person hold the cams into place while the other drops on the big chain lining up at the sprockets and the crank/ pulling off the tensioner pin to put tension on the chain- THEN the person holding the cams can let go without worrying (as long as all the chain's slack was over on the tensioner/ guide's side)
4- It's going to push out the oil anyways man, but you just want to make sure that it's well lubricated prior to pushing back the plunger before installing it
5- Yes (read the reply to maxkid's post for further detail however)
6- Not familiar with that so not sure
Honestly if he's holding the gas slightly open to start it anyways, those lines and the whole fast-idle cam system being connected or not becomes irrelevant.
well, two reasons...
1. i still dont know a way to adapt the fuel rail
2. we all know there are some potential idling issues with the dek, so i wanted to use the mevi to eliminate any potential issues while im getting the engine to run properly. that way theres no "what if its just the oovi" when its really the engine, get it?
its just temporary til i know the engine runs properly.
1. i still dont know a way to adapt the fuel rail
2. we all know there are some potential idling issues with the dek, so i wanted to use the mevi to eliminate any potential issues while im getting the engine to run properly. that way theres no "what if its just the oovi" when its really the engine, get it?
its just temporary til i know the engine runs properly.
11-23-2008, 09:53 PM
#7
Ahh you lucky guys. My freind tried to by passed the coolant lines to his TB and had huge starting issues in the fall/winter. The only way it would start is with a bit of throttle.
For #2 If it skipped 1 tooth, it can still start, but will run like utter crap. I cant comment on if it will start if it skips more then 1 tooth, but i have witnessed a few seperate incidents where chains have slipped a tooth and its started, but ran bad. Usually it will skip on the first time you start it, if its going to, but i guess it could happen after too.
#4. I just put some oil in there, try fill it as much as you can..its going to come out, but any more oil you can get in there is better then nothing. Same with lifters, most of the oil will come out anyways, but anything that you can get in there is better then nothing.
For #2 If it skipped 1 tooth, it can still start, but will run like utter crap. I cant comment on if it will start if it skips more then 1 tooth, but i have witnessed a few seperate incidents where chains have slipped a tooth and its started, but ran bad. Usually it will skip on the first time you start it, if its going to, but i guess it could happen after too.
#4. I just put some oil in there, try fill it as much as you can..its going to come out, but any more oil you can get in there is better then nothing. Same with lifters, most of the oil will come out anyways, but anything that you can get in there is better then nothing.
11-25-2008, 07:10 PM
#9
there are two points where you could have went wrong with the timing..
1. main tensioner.. I've found that it's a REALLY REALLY good idea to use a Brand new MAIN tensioner/guide.. WHY? it's an updated/redesigned part. and it only costs about $60
the stock tensioner is crap... I've heard WAY too many stories of them slipping 1/2 teeth upon initial cranking/start-up..
also good idea to change the water pump ($82).. WHY?? because you don't ever want to get into messing with the timing chain again, or take a chance on cooling problems down the line.. when you actually start to Beat the Crap out of the motor. (preventative maintenance)
i've built 5 vq35's with 3.0 timing and i've done a few cam installs on 3.5's with VTC's too
the biggest issue is setting the timing back.. you have to be sure the engine is at Cyl 1 @ TDC by the crank pulley mark/water pump cover mark
then it's aligning timing chain marks on crank sprocket, and the two intake cam sprockets that have the arrow pointed.. there is also a mark on the inner timing chain cover to line up the intake cams arrow (as a check for TDC via front intake sprocket arrow)
2. the other issue is not to let the cams turn on themselves, because they can cause two valves to bend depending on piston position (tdc) and on how much the cam is turned to open the valves.. turn the cam too much and the valves will open into the top of the piston and bend.
i've found that the motor clanks alot after a cam install (even if you pre-oil the cam lobes/oil passages) because the oil needs to completely circulate through the motor.. it's taken as long as 5-10 minutes of driving to get the cams proper oiling in all passages and for the clunking noise to go away (back when i installed pathy cams in my 3.0, and stock cams in a 3.5L build)
go over the setup and have a lot of patience.. it will pay off..
not even gonna say anyting on getting the car tuned after headers + cams.. that should be a NO-BRAINER...
1. main tensioner.. I've found that it's a REALLY REALLY good idea to use a Brand new MAIN tensioner/guide.. WHY? it's an updated/redesigned part. and it only costs about $60
the stock tensioner is crap... I've heard WAY too many stories of them slipping 1/2 teeth upon initial cranking/start-up..
also good idea to change the water pump ($82).. WHY?? because you don't ever want to get into messing with the timing chain again, or take a chance on cooling problems down the line.. when you actually start to Beat the Crap out of the motor. (preventative maintenance)
i've built 5 vq35's with 3.0 timing and i've done a few cam installs on 3.5's with VTC's too
the biggest issue is setting the timing back.. you have to be sure the engine is at Cyl 1 @ TDC by the crank pulley mark/water pump cover mark
then it's aligning timing chain marks on crank sprocket, and the two intake cam sprockets that have the arrow pointed.. there is also a mark on the inner timing chain cover to line up the intake cams arrow (as a check for TDC via front intake sprocket arrow)
2. the other issue is not to let the cams turn on themselves, because they can cause two valves to bend depending on piston position (tdc) and on how much the cam is turned to open the valves.. turn the cam too much and the valves will open into the top of the piston and bend.
i've found that the motor clanks alot after a cam install (even if you pre-oil the cam lobes/oil passages) because the oil needs to completely circulate through the motor.. it's taken as long as 5-10 minutes of driving to get the cams proper oiling in all passages and for the clunking noise to go away (back when i installed pathy cams in my 3.0, and stock cams in a 3.5L build)
go over the setup and have a lot of patience.. it will pay off..
not even gonna say anyting on getting the car tuned after headers + cams.. that should be a NO-BRAINER...
11-25-2008, 07:21 PM
#10
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I still think you should have done a 3.5 with your 3.0 timing equipment instead!
Good luck with getting it back together this weekend, man. I would come help if it wasn't for all the junk I need to do this weekend
Good luck with getting it back together this weekend, man. I would come help if it wasn't for all the junk I need to do this weekend
11-25-2008, 09:05 PM
#11
i've found that the motor clanks alot after a cam install (even if you pre-oil the cam lobes/oil passages) because the oil needs to completely circulate through the motor.. it's taken as long as 5-10 minutes of driving to get the cams proper oiling in all passages and for the clunking noise to go away (back when i installed pathy cams in my 3.0, and stock cams in a 3.5L build)
11-25-2008, 09:30 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 51
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with the swap. If you need me to look something up on the internet for you this week when you are up there let me know. If you need my number you can get it from John or PM me on here. I hope everything works out for you this weekend.
11-26-2008, 01:31 PM
#13
there are two points where you could have went wrong with the timing..
1. main tensioner.. I've found that it's a REALLY REALLY good idea to use a Brand new MAIN tensioner/guide.. WHY? it's an updated/redesigned part. and it only costs about $60
the stock tensioner is crap... I've heard WAY too many stories of them slipping 1/2 teeth upon initial cranking/start-up..
also good idea to change the water pump ($82).. WHY?? because you don't ever want to get into messing with the timing chain again, or take a chance on cooling problems down the line.. when you actually start to Beat the Crap out of the motor. (preventative maintenance)
i've built 5 vq35's with 3.0 timing and i've done a few cam installs on 3.5's with VTC's too
the biggest issue is setting the timing back.. you have to be sure the engine is at Cyl 1 @ TDC by the crank pulley mark/water pump cover mark
then it's aligning timing chain marks on crank sprocket, and the two intake cam sprockets that have the arrow pointed.. there is also a mark on the inner timing chain cover to line up the intake cams arrow (as a check for TDC via front intake sprocket arrow)
2. the other issue is not to let the cams turn on themselves, because they can cause two valves to bend depending on piston position (tdc) and on how much the cam is turned to open the valves.. turn the cam too much and the valves will open into the top of the piston and bend.
i've found that the motor clanks alot after a cam install (even if you pre-oil the cam lobes/oil passages) because the oil needs to completely circulate through the motor.. it's taken as long as 5-10 minutes of driving to get the cams proper oiling in all passages and for the clunking noise to go away (back when i installed pathy cams in my 3.0, and stock cams in a 3.5L build)
go over the setup and have a lot of patience.. it will pay off..
not even gonna say anyting on getting the car tuned after headers + cams.. that should be a NO-BRAINER...
1. main tensioner.. I've found that it's a REALLY REALLY good idea to use a Brand new MAIN tensioner/guide.. WHY? it's an updated/redesigned part. and it only costs about $60
the stock tensioner is crap... I've heard WAY too many stories of them slipping 1/2 teeth upon initial cranking/start-up..
also good idea to change the water pump ($82).. WHY?? because you don't ever want to get into messing with the timing chain again, or take a chance on cooling problems down the line.. when you actually start to Beat the Crap out of the motor. (preventative maintenance)
i've built 5 vq35's with 3.0 timing and i've done a few cam installs on 3.5's with VTC's too
the biggest issue is setting the timing back.. you have to be sure the engine is at Cyl 1 @ TDC by the crank pulley mark/water pump cover mark
then it's aligning timing chain marks on crank sprocket, and the two intake cam sprockets that have the arrow pointed.. there is also a mark on the inner timing chain cover to line up the intake cams arrow (as a check for TDC via front intake sprocket arrow)
2. the other issue is not to let the cams turn on themselves, because they can cause two valves to bend depending on piston position (tdc) and on how much the cam is turned to open the valves.. turn the cam too much and the valves will open into the top of the piston and bend.
i've found that the motor clanks alot after a cam install (even if you pre-oil the cam lobes/oil passages) because the oil needs to completely circulate through the motor.. it's taken as long as 5-10 minutes of driving to get the cams proper oiling in all passages and for the clunking noise to go away (back when i installed pathy cams in my 3.0, and stock cams in a 3.5L build)
go over the setup and have a lot of patience.. it will pay off..
not even gonna say anyting on getting the car tuned after headers + cams.. that should be a NO-BRAINER...
11-29-2008, 07:09 PM
#14
update:
got back to my dads on tuesday evening, started working. things are so much easier the second time around, had the engine back out a lot quicker than the first time. i go to take the timing cover off and voila! the cam sprocket bolts are half way loosened!! WTF! the main cam sprocket was tilted and wobbly, and you could see where it was rubbing on the inside of the timing cover. i dont know how that got passed us or it could have been that we just didnt torque it properly. so i spent the next day or so fixing that and putting everything back together. when i finished, it cranked, and ran beautifully. i was so excited. just had to fix some minor things here and there like vacuum lines, exhaust leak, PS needed to be bled, minor issues. I drove it for a few days, ran awesome. no abnormal sounds anything. life was great.
then...today came. i was on my way back home this morning on the interstate, cruising at 3k rpms or so, then all of a sudden a little jolt and change in engine sounds, and all i hear was clanking again. so i pulled over immediately, ticked off now. reluctantly called pops (he was giving me a hard time for the past week about not just putting the engine in the car as-is) and he came and towed it back to his place. so now im back to square one...i assume its something with the timing again. so next week gotta do it all over again, and hopefully this engine hasnt been beat to hell yet and isnt damaged. but im actually at this point hoping its the timing that has jumped or maybe one of the sprocket bolts somehow came loose again, i dont know. im getting pretty good at setting the timing now, just gotta do something about the darn bolts staying put. so, yeah, thats the story. had it running great, then bam. so off to pull the engine again for the 3rd time.
got back to my dads on tuesday evening, started working. things are so much easier the second time around, had the engine back out a lot quicker than the first time. i go to take the timing cover off and voila! the cam sprocket bolts are half way loosened!! WTF! the main cam sprocket was tilted and wobbly, and you could see where it was rubbing on the inside of the timing cover. i dont know how that got passed us or it could have been that we just didnt torque it properly. so i spent the next day or so fixing that and putting everything back together. when i finished, it cranked, and ran beautifully. i was so excited. just had to fix some minor things here and there like vacuum lines, exhaust leak, PS needed to be bled, minor issues. I drove it for a few days, ran awesome. no abnormal sounds anything. life was great.
then...today came. i was on my way back home this morning on the interstate, cruising at 3k rpms or so, then all of a sudden a little jolt and change in engine sounds, and all i hear was clanking again. so i pulled over immediately, ticked off now. reluctantly called pops (he was giving me a hard time for the past week about not just putting the engine in the car as-is) and he came and towed it back to his place. so now im back to square one...i assume its something with the timing again. so next week gotta do it all over again, and hopefully this engine hasnt been beat to hell yet and isnt damaged. but im actually at this point hoping its the timing that has jumped or maybe one of the sprocket bolts somehow came loose again, i dont know. im getting pretty good at setting the timing now, just gotta do something about the darn bolts staying put. so, yeah, thats the story. had it running great, then bam. so off to pull the engine again for the 3rd time.
11-29-2008, 07:56 PM
#16
damn I feel so sorry for you pulling the motor for the 3rd time, I wanted to cry when I thought I had to pull my tranny
atleast your able to fix it, like stated above dip the bolt and make sure your torque wrench is good
atleast your able to fix it, like stated above dip the bolt and make sure your torque wrench is good
11-29-2008, 08:02 PM
#17
trust me man, i was really upset this morning, but, its a learning process. never in my wildest dreams would i have thought i could swap/pull a motor but here i am doing it for the third time in 2 weeks, ive learned a lot and im becoming more efficient as well. the second time around was much quicker, this third time i anticipate that it'll be a breeze, ive learned all the tricks, etc. i just hope i havent done further damage to it and its just a simple timing fix. wish me luck guys...
11-30-2008, 03:37 PM
#23
lol, well, when it drove it felt awesome on the butt dyno, felt better than my fully tuned mevi did especially up top. but that could just be a healthier engine (my old engine had very low compression) it did feel slightly slower under 4k tho. but once it got there, wow, and that was with an exhaust leak, some vacuum lines not hooked up, the mevi still on there untuned. i cant wait to get it running with the 00vi and tuned with extended rev limiter.
11-30-2008, 06:10 PM
#25
heres my promise to be there no matter what: if i dont get the dek running u better believe the old de is going bak in with the 00vi on it and tuned before saturday, lol. thank god i havent messed with the DE at all aside from removing valve covers.
12-06-2008, 05:52 PM
#29
well, i have bad news.
I guess i bent valves or messed up something else. i got the motor back in the car....again. went smoothly, timing was set properly. when we cranked it up, it cranked right up, but ticked like heck from the rear valve cover area. so im assuming something was damaged when it jumped timing on the highway last week. so, i said screw it and put my old motor back in. im done with that dek, hopefully recoop the money spent by selling the 00vi and maybe other things. i may have lost the battle, but i havent lost the war yet. im gonna give it another shot later on, maybe during spring break. but this time, if im gonna go through alllll of the work, im gonna do a 3.5 swap and make it worth it. so those are my plans.
so there we have it, 3 weeks later after pulling the engine 4 times, im back to my original engine, and it runs again but now....my dad tore up my front lip and bumper trying to tow it (car is too low apparently), it idles at 2k rpms after it warms up no matter what i do to the iacv, and now its slower than before, lol. I damaged a flywheel timing gear tooth during the swaps and now i have a p1336 code for the crankshaft pos. sensor. thats life i guess, but hey, i truely did learn ALOT and its been a wonderful experience ragardless that i failed my mission, and im not afraid to try it all over again when the time comes. i guess i can be thankful that i have my car back again and ill start another thread when my 3.5 swap commences.
I guess i bent valves or messed up something else. i got the motor back in the car....again. went smoothly, timing was set properly. when we cranked it up, it cranked right up, but ticked like heck from the rear valve cover area. so im assuming something was damaged when it jumped timing on the highway last week. so, i said screw it and put my old motor back in. im done with that dek, hopefully recoop the money spent by selling the 00vi and maybe other things. i may have lost the battle, but i havent lost the war yet. im gonna give it another shot later on, maybe during spring break. but this time, if im gonna go through alllll of the work, im gonna do a 3.5 swap and make it worth it. so those are my plans.
so there we have it, 3 weeks later after pulling the engine 4 times, im back to my original engine, and it runs again but now....my dad tore up my front lip and bumper trying to tow it (car is too low apparently), it idles at 2k rpms after it warms up no matter what i do to the iacv, and now its slower than before, lol. I damaged a flywheel timing gear tooth during the swaps and now i have a p1336 code for the crankshaft pos. sensor. thats life i guess, but hey, i truely did learn ALOT and its been a wonderful experience ragardless that i failed my mission, and im not afraid to try it all over again when the time comes. i guess i can be thankful that i have my car back again and ill start another thread when my 3.5 swap commences.
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MaxRPM6
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09-11-2015 06:56 PM