Did you disconnect the knock sensor and then place the resistor where the sensor was plugged in? If so that's incorrect. You need to trace that harness back to the next plug, disconnect it, and then install the resistor there.

The simplest thing would be to grab a multimeter and check for a good ground where you connected your resistor. I bet its not grounded.

 

sorry about the confusion. I just realized what you meant by "sub-harness". Yes I have removed that from the car completely as it only had the single signal wire in it. I have replaced the plug on the "main" harness with the resistor bridging those the two wires.

after reading your post again, I am fairly confident I have done it the right way but the fact that I have a code and the car runs crappier than ever tells me otherwise...

Is half of a watt correct in resistance? the package just said "470", everyone here is saying "470k". I will take some pictures of how I did it when I get home in a week.

 

It should be 470 kohm, not just 470 ohm.

Where did you get it from, Radioshack? If you've got product code 271-1115, you got the wrong thing.

 

leave it to me to pick up the first thing I see in the shelf. Yeah I think thats probably it since it says "1/2 watt" in the description. . thanks paul

edit- actually they both say "1/2 watt", even the 470k. I dont have a good understanding of resistors obviously. But the package definitely did not say "k". So I probably bought the wrong crap.

 

The 1/2 watt is irrelevant in this aspect, not sure why you keep bringing it up.

This is what you got: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062320

This is what you need: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062336

Both 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance, the important part is the resistance.

 

i keep bringing it up because I have no clue what I'm talking about.

thanks again!

 

The resistor should be yellow, violet, yellow for 470k.
Yellow, violet, brown is 470.
The 4th ring is the tolerance ie gold 5%, silver 10%

 

i gotcha. can't wait to get home and check/swap. thank you!

 

does it matter which way the resister sits in each prong of the KS harness?

 

No

 

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The wattage is important since the resistor will burn out if the current passing it exceeds 0.1A assuming 5V supply and 0.04A assuming 12V supply.

 

Again, 'in this aspect', i.e. if you actually read the message in context.

 

So is it possible even with the resistor in that the ECU is still pulling my timing??

I recently used the resistor and it seemed to work for a little bit but then it seemed to start pull timing. I still dont have a CEL for the ks. But my timing is way off. Im at like 15-19* at WOT to 4500 then it starts going to mid 20's. It also seems to be slugish at around 3k. What i dont understand is why it wouldnt throw a cel if it wasnt working

I think i am going to make a run w\o any resistor or KS to compare with the resistor in.

Also when i advance on the EU it seems its not making the full adjustment IE say i put in 15*. And i do a data log and it will say that the Timing adjustment is only 10* WTF? Is it my ECU pulling timing?? Or is the EU messed up?

I think im just going to get the KS and bolt it up to the battery. But i wont be able to get the ks till monday since its at the shop. I havent had the actual KS hooked up since i swapped so i guess that will be one of my moves to see if it will improve my timing.

Any suggestions are more than welcomed.

 

Apparently it IS possible for it to pull timing even with the resistor in there. I have had pretty consistent feeling performance ever since I got the correct resistor. I really want to get an EU so I can monitor and confirm that it is giving full timing though and add some more of course.

I got what you described when I bolted mine to the battery though. It felt great for like a week and then crappy after that.

 

This is where i am at with the resistor.





I am running w\o a TPS as well. I know Jclaw has ran without it and didnt have issues. I think when i replugged it in it reseted the values of the TPS settings there fore messing it up. Im working to make a tps bracket so i can run one.

Apparently there is a fail-safe mode for the tps which i think im in. But i honestly dont know if it would retard timing or not. But according to the fsm its tied into the CKPS(POS)

 

Your timing definitely seems to be retarded. I ran my car without a TPS just to get some logs and my timing was not affected at all. Aside from the high idle, timing remained the same. After 5500 RPM, I was in the 30s before I adding any advance with the EU.

 

Man I'm getting fed up with this crap. The car is starting to act sluggish again now at partial throttle intermittently. I only have my a/f gauge to monitor but I definitely feel a drop in power around 3500 rpm when I'm accelerating moderately light (<30%). The gauge leans out to 14:1 where it is usually around 12:1 everywhere else in the powerband. I dont know if this is due to the timing but I promise one day I will buy an EU and get to the bottom of it.

Whlimi, did you say you have advanced the timing at partial throttle? Or is everyone basically only tuning for WOT?

This may not be a timing issue however, the car still feels really responsive otherwise. I just get paranoid that the problem is creeping its way back in or something.

 

I only have it advanced by 2* under partial throttle and then it slowly ramps up as the MAF voltage increases. I dont know if the partial throttle advance has made any difference but it's certainly not all that noticable on the butt dyno.

If you have no way of logging your timing, what makes you think there's anything wrong the the timing the way it is? You gotta keep in mind that the 3.0 ECM is tuned with respect to the USIM where, IIRC, peak volumetric effeciency occurs in the area of 3500-4500 rpm. This is where timing advance is at its lowest so you're definitely going to feel a lag there, specially if you have a gutted 3.5 IM.

If your car feels really responsive, then I dont think its a timing issue. I had a problem with my EU install a while ago and I was seeing 8-15* total timing under moderate throttle, and believe me, that does not feel responsive at all.

 

You are probably right. It just feels a little inconsistent at times but it is definitely much better than it used to be. And yes I do have the gutted manifold.

thanks

 

Bumping this up cause I got a question/issue.

Is it possible to ground the knock sensor by runnng a wire from the knock sensor harness itself to a ground? My problem is that I went to change my knock sensor the other day and the connector literally fell apart in my hand.

This would make things alot more simple as it would eliminate the knock sensor all together, but you would have to use an aftermarket knock sensing device. Or do I have to buy a new pigtail [harness].