95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

^^^^as far as I know I have everything is hooked up right I dont have the Y pipe on yet and I dont have the IACV hooked up I have fuel pressure 20psi after I try and start it and also the ground from the neg terminal on the battery will not reach to the block so I manualy grounded it on the tranny any thing else I should check for

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

40psi of fuel. And check for codes in ecu

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

when I turn the key the engine light dosent come on does this mean it dosent work or maybe a fuse or something? also I havent finished the throtle body yet so I just hooked it and the tps up just so that it was conected

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

There's 4 typical problems that cause a no-start with a 3.5 swap:

1. Crank sensors (REF) and (POS). Check the condition of the flywheel and make sure no teeth are chipped. Make sure there's no metal shavings on the magnet of the tranny crank sensor. If you used the 3.5 upper oil pan, you need to shave off some material to get the sensor to read the flywheel correctly.
2. grounding issues, esp with the ground points that ground near the front injectors
3. Improper fuel pressure, or none at all
4. Timing chain skipped a tooth

Remember, for an engine to run, you need compression, spark, and fuel. Determine which is bad and go from there.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

both crank sensors are hooked up and I used the 3.5 oil pans and I shaved a little bit off of the oil pan for that sensor flywheel looked fine I shaved off some on the sensor below the crank pulley because I was confused on what to shave but I put washers on it to put it back to where it was supposed to be and my fuel presure was low so I adjusted it but havent got to checkto see if it would start yet because my battery is dead also i grounded two wires that are close to the injecters on the intake manifold

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

oh and all the markings on the timing was perfect and chain was tight

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

It's been awhile, but IIRC, you have to laterally shave some material so that the magnet tip lines up with the teeth of the flywheel. The tip needs to be just above the teeth by maybe 1/8".

My other question is whether you're using the 3.0 or 3.5 crank pulley or if you're using an aftermarket one. You cannot use the 3.5 pulley and if you have an aftermarket one, you need to make sure it has the timing rings in it.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

I'm sure it was, but when you first crank it, sometimes the chain skips a tooth. I have personal experience with this and it busted a couple of valves. What you have to do is after putting the chain back on, turn the crank like 10 times and make sure that this doesn't happen.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

I am using a unortadox racing pulley, do the timing rings not come on it? maybe I shaved it the wrong way I shaved it so that the sensor is close to the flywheel

i turned it a few times with to problems

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

someone please let me know if I grinded the oil pan the right way I grinded it so that it would be closed to the flywheel, I am now thinking that I was maybe supposed to grind so that it should be closer to the left

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Weimar Ben covered all the usual suspects. If your aftermarket usp was made for the VQ35, then I strongly suspect that to be the reason. Put the original VQ30 pulley back on and see if that makes a difference. But be sure you're getting 40 psi fuel pressure, too.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

did I grind the oil pan the correct place? I used a udp that was made for the 4th gen

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

If the udp was used without problems on a VQ30, then I guess that isn't the source of the problem. But Dubbya had starting problems using a new udp made for the VQ30 on his VQ35 swap, if I remember correctly. So if it is brand new and untried, then I would reinstall the oem VQ30 crank pulley just to be absolutely sure.

As far as the oil pan grinding, you want to reduce the thickness of the flat on the VQ35 oilpan that the CPS mounts against by about .1". But I seem to remember some people not doing any grinding and not having problems. At any rate, I don't think a faulty rear CPS would prevent the engine from starting, it would just throw a CEL. The front CPS, on the other hand, will definitely prevent the engine from starting if it can't read the timing marks on the crank pulley, or if the right marks aren't there (which is why you can't use a VQ35 crank pulley).

Here's a dumb question, but just to cover all the bases, you do have a timing ring on the backside of your flywheel (or flexplate), right?

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

Here's a dumb question, but just to cover all the bases, you do have a timing ring on the backside of your flywheel (or flexplate), right?[/QUOTE]

I just pulled the factory flywheel off and stuck it directley on the 3.5, is this the thing with all the teath on it? and also my cell light is not working for some reason and I dont ever remember it not working before but im not sure because the car had been down for awhile, it turns over well sounds normal no funny noises or anything

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Yeah, the timing ring has the teeth that the CPS detects. Sounds like you're good in that department.

Not getting a CEL with ignition on worries me. Do you know somebody you can swap ecu's with?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Both CKPS' can cause a no start condition if they're bad, unplugged, or not in the right position.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Check the ECCS fuse

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

what number is this fuse? or the actual name of it?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Labeled ECCS:

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

awsome thanks I will check it out

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

how do I check my ecu and those to crank sensors to see if they are good, my crank pully has those little timing teeth on it just like the factory one

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

I had a bad rear CPS on my 95 once and all it did was throw a CEL and cause rough running, but maybe it was still working well enough not to cause a no start.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Rear CPS as in a Bank 1 CPS on a 3.5 swap, or as in CKPS POS?

And for the CKPS', it seems to mostly be luck as far as whether or not it'll present a starting issue.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

It was the crank position sensor, the one mounted at the engine/tranny split, VQ30 engine. I also had the cam position sensor on the VQ30 go bad. The engine would start, but it wouldn't stay running more than a couple of seconds.

95stillenmax, does it seem like the car wants to start (a cylinder or two fires), but doesn't, or is it acting completely dead? Have you tried testing for spark during starting?

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

it seems like it wants to I havent tested the spark it turns over really well but im not sure im going to put the y pipe on tomm and try again

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

Yeah i would suspect the ecu if your cel light isnt coming on when you have your ignition in the "on" postition. Ive fried a ecu before (stupid mistake on my behalf)and i deffently did not have a the light on when i had it in the '"on" postion.

but first i would check the eccs like pmohr said first. and if that checks out to be good then i would suspect and or throw in a known working ecu

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

the fuse is fine I think the ecu is cashed I dont know what would have caused it

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

car is now turning over rapidly, the y pipe is on but not conected to the strait pipe and is back firing and an occasional loud noise coming from the engine I dont know if this is another type of backfireing or what I can I tell if the car has jumped time?

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

A timing light would tell you if the ignition timing is right. The ignition timing depends on the cam/crank sensors. If those events are out of time, it'll cause the ignition timing to be off too.

BTW, everything you're describing sounds like what I first experienced, and that was the cam timing being off. When I cranked the motor for the first time, I got backfiring really bad. After using some starting fluid, it did start and drive, but top speed was 30mph and it was sputtering and running real bad.

If it's backfiring, it means the spark is firing before the intake valves are closed.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

I dont know if this might have any thing to do with it but the gas in it is really old prob a year old I am hoping I dont have to pull the motor and do this all over again

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

Well, you don't have to pull the motor to fix the timing. The gas might cause driveability issues, but not like what you're describing. One way you can know for sure is to spray some starter fluid in the intake, and try to start it. If you have a fuel problem, the engine will start right up and purr for like 5-10 seconds and then start running like crap or die.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

Also, if the intake valves are closing late, you'll get low compression readings. Have you done a compression test?

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

no I havent how do I do it, I have to do it on each cylender correct? just get a tester and also how would I fix it without pulling the motor if the cam timing is off? pull every thing off then pull off timing cover?

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

Well, the easiest thing to do would be to check the compression on the front bank of cylinders, since you don't have to pull the IM to do it. You'll have a 50/50 chance of detecting an issue that way.

You can fix it without pulling the motor by pulling the right engine mount, accessories, and finally the timing cover. It's a bit cramped, but it is possible. I've personally done it with the motor in the car. It's a bit faster than pulling the motor.

If you want to follow protocol, you'd want to remove the crossmember and the oil pans as well and replace the half moon gaskets.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

even if the timing is off by a tooth or so it will still start. I would confirm the cps signal but having someone crank the car while you probe the harness for a coil, from there I would pull and sprak plug and ground it while someone is cranking the car to confirm spark.

then with a screwdriver confirm the injectors are firing, but before all this I would try to figure out why you only have 20psi of fuel psi. as someone stated above it should quick build to around 40psi when you turn the key

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

my fpr is supposed to adjust from 25 to 75 psi but the nipples on it are a bit large so I had to run some bigger hose then get a few adapters to conect to the factory hoses and ajusted the screw almost all the way down and now i am getting like 35 psi is that enough pressure to start the car

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

35 psi is enough to be able to start the engine. You need to do some tests to see if the injectors are operating and you are getting spark. Once you have established that, then move on to such things as ignition and valve timing.

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

whats the easist way to test them, also I hear some clicking when ignition is on after trying to start the car

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Easiest way to test what, the injectors?

Ohm them all out, then visually check the spray pattern.

Well...where is the clicking coming from?

95stillenmax

iTrader: (11)

the injecters maybe or intake manifold area