Finishing up DEK swap.
08-01-2009, 03:27 PM
#42
10-05 egrc solenoid valve, temp sensor plugged in, need to get the solenoid at the junkyard I guess...
02-05 idle air control valve
04-03 tps
both sensors are testing out fine and I rechecked my wiring where I extended the wires and that is fine as well. I'm using either a 96 auto ecu or a 95 5spd ecu. Can't really tell cause no one else know how to read the serials on them either. Guessing the 95 5spd as there are no trans codes though...
02-05 idle air control valve
04-03 tps
both sensors are testing out fine and I rechecked my wiring where I extended the wires and that is fine as well. I'm using either a 96 auto ecu or a 95 5spd ecu. Can't really tell cause no one else know how to read the serials on them either. Guessing the 95 5spd as there are no trans codes though...
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 08-02-2009 at 11:28 AM.
08-02-2009, 07:43 PM
#43
IACV code just kinda disappeared.
Found a break in the line for the TPS. Replaced wire code still came back. I warmed the car up to operating temp checked the TPS and it read 700ohm at closed throttle instead of~500. That wouldn't set off the code would it? I doubt it would. Back to junkyard tomorrow to get more crap...
One more thing. The revs jump up to about 1400rpm when I put the car in gear. Found another thread that mentions this and his was a tps problem but there was no solution.
Found a break in the line for the TPS. Replaced wire code still came back. I warmed the car up to operating temp checked the TPS and it read 700ohm at closed throttle instead of~500. That wouldn't set off the code would it? I doubt it would. Back to junkyard tomorrow to get more crap...
One more thing. The revs jump up to about 1400rpm when I put the car in gear. Found another thread that mentions this and his was a tps problem but there was no solution.
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 08-02-2009 at 08:02 PM.
08-03-2009, 03:12 PM
#44
thought I fixed the 0403 TPS code cause the revs didn't go up when put into gear anymore, wrong, code came up. Picked up a egr solenoid so hopefully that fixes the 1005. Last time codes came up, 2 hrs ago, the damn rear o2 popped up....
08-04-2009, 01:44 PM
#45
emission test done and passed. Plugged in the egrc solenoid, ran one hose to tb ran other to the midpipe. Check engine light was off but they detected 3 stored DTC codes. P0136, P1400, AND P0500. I'm surprised about the speed sensor code as that what my original ecu threw out, not the current one.
08-10-2009, 01:55 PM
#46
redid my gasket on the rear valve cover this pas weekend. Take the car out for a drive today and it dies when I put it into neutral when coming up to a light. I dropped the intake assembly maybe 12-14 inches and it landed on the accordion section so I'm assuming MAF sensor. Everything seems fine. I'm going over everything I did during the rear VC job and that's the only thing that stands out. No leaks that I can hear, TPS is adjusted just right. Suggestions?
08-10-2009, 02:07 PM
#47
F**K!
I guess It's worse than I thought. Any impact that did that would surely damage the sensor. The small chips are easy to remove and jus show the inner wall but I'm sure the damage has been done. No code or anything though and the car goes past 2500rpm just fine...
I guess It's worse than I thought. Any impact that did that would surely damage the sensor. The small chips are easy to remove and jus show the inner wall but I'm sure the damage has been done. No code or anything though and the car goes past 2500rpm just fine...
08-13-2009, 04:44 PM
#48
When I start the car and rev it i get a nice blue/white cloud. It's only right after startup though. Would this only be from the larger injectors or could some be stuck open?
08-13-2009, 05:46 PM
#49
If the latter, it's likely just worn valve stem seals.
If the former, then very worn valve stem seals, basically.
This is assuming it is indeed a bluish cloud of smoke, and not dark gray or black, which would indicate overfueling.
08-13-2009, 07:05 PM
#50
through the tinted windows it looks dark white and blue. When I get out of the car it looks grayish but that's after it has already started thinning out. Worn seals on a <50k mile motor?
08-15-2009, 02:50 PM
#52
UPDATE
Surprise surprise, it's not the damn MAF afterall. Put in one that I know is fine and same problems. Then started thinking, hello you tard, you just did the vafc and cut the MAF wires and ran them through the vafc. Took it for a 12 mile cruise, checked the connectors. Looked at them and they are snug. Good connection and everything. Plug it back in turn it on drive a couple blocks and CEL is on. This time MAF along with 0704 and 0903.
Surprise surprise, it's not the damn MAF afterall. Put in one that I know is fine and same problems. Then started thinking, hello you tard, you just did the vafc and cut the MAF wires and ran them through the vafc. Took it for a 12 mile cruise, checked the connectors. Looked at them and they are snug. Good connection and everything. Plug it back in turn it on drive a couple blocks and CEL is on. This time MAF along with 0704 and 0903.
08-15-2009, 07:11 PM
#53
The blue smoke is pretty much constant actually...
So much for a 50k motor...
Damaged spark plug tube seals/gaskets wouldn't be culprit would they? Oil would get into the spark plug hole but not past them into the combustion chamber.
I'm beyond pissed right now...
So much for a 50k motor...
Damaged spark plug tube seals/gaskets wouldn't be culprit would they? Oil would get into the spark plug hole but not past them into the combustion chamber.
I'm beyond pissed right now...
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 08-15-2009 at 07:56 PM.
08-17-2009, 01:59 PM
#54
The neutral stalling was cause by the lil metal screw on the TB. One that everyone says not to touch. I let it out a bit to get the car idling above 660rpm then later on returned it so the idle would fall to 550 or so. Turns out I unscrewed it too much. Car idles at ~700rpm and when going into neutral and it falls to around 600 and back up to 700. Before it would idle at 550 and fall to below 400 and die 70% of the time....
08-17-2009, 05:55 PM
#55
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 678
Well about the smoke, I'm no guru like most of these guys but it's not too hard to tell if it's oil or fuel related smoke. When my old '93 Altima would run rich from a bad MAF connection, idle would be erratic/lopey and would puff dark smoke and really smell almost like a bad converter or basically raw fuel...
Once the old engine started using oil and smoking at startup, you could smell the oil in the exhaust....Just a completely different odor. If it's not really dark and is more light/bluish, it's probably the valve seals like mentioned. I feel for you if you paid for a low mile engine.
When I put a low mile 2k engine in my Altima I was nervous since I knew it had sat for at least 6-8months not running....
You could pull the VC but I wouldn't think a bad gasket would cause the car to smoke like that.
Jeremy
Once the old engine started using oil and smoking at startup, you could smell the oil in the exhaust....Just a completely different odor. If it's not really dark and is more light/bluish, it's probably the valve seals like mentioned. I feel for you if you paid for a low mile engine.
When I put a low mile 2k engine in my Altima I was nervous since I knew it had sat for at least 6-8months not running....
You could pull the VC but I wouldn't think a bad gasket would cause the car to smoke like that.
Jeremy
08-17-2009, 06:30 PM
#56
It has died down, now it's mostly normal white smoke. The oil light flickers and stays on for <2 seconds on startup. I put in a can of RESTORE right after the car was finished and I put maybe 400 miles on it so far. Will check the oil level wednesday morning to see exactly how much has burned off. I have pretty much decided to stick with castrol GTX with this engne til next year and then do another swap...
08-20-2009, 07:30 AM
#57
well, 500 miles or so since the oil was put in and now it doesn't even reach the dipstick. This is after topping it off once already. Time to go get a jiffylube oil change so they can top it off for me every week...
08-22-2009, 02:12 PM
#58
I'm starting to hate this car. I did continuity testes, weeks ago, on all the IACV and TPS wires between the connectors and ECU. All was fine. Tried the Z32 MAF today, failed, put everything back together and car starts and dies. Then when it works, it again revs up when put in gear with clutch pushed in. If I move the tps/iacv wire loom the IACV starts sucking in air and now the VAFC no longer picks up the throttle position signal.
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