Finishing up DEK swap.
07-16-2009, 04:18 PM
#1
Finishing up DEK swap.
Car sat for a long time after a de-k swap, bad engine took a while to get replacement, battery is drained. Charged it up and the starter cranked and engine turned over and died. Couldn't try again cause the battery no longer had enough power to turn it over again. Put a fully charged battery out of a different car and there was just a pop, like a fuse popping in the engine bay, checked all fuses all are fine. Negative terminal of new battery made crackling noises and some smoke came out. Even with a new battery the starter would spin and spin then all of a sudden nothing and the lights were flickering. Put battery back in other car, every thing is fine. Charged old battery tried cranking but still not enough power to turn engine over. That's where i'm at now. Got couple codes which are crank and crankshaft sensor related, 1* and 120* signal. Both codes apparently could be due to a weak battery. Checked the crankshaft sensor(POS) and harness and all that and it's good. Haven't gotten to the CPS (REF) troubleshooting yet. Thinking it might be the harness but I have a spare one. The battery thing is what has me worried most for now. Going back to the FSM and going over the charging system section.
The DEK is from a 2000 car, 5spd, sensors are from 4th gen, 5th gen tb and IACV, no egr, 4th gen rear VC and coils, 5th gen fuel rail.
The DEK is from a 2000 car, 5spd, sensors are from 4th gen, 5th gen tb and IACV, no egr, 4th gen rear VC and coils, 5th gen fuel rail.
07-18-2009, 01:07 PM
#2
Car sat for a long time after a de-k swap, bad engine took a while to get replacement, battery is drained. Charged it up and the starter cranked and engine turned over and died. Couldn't try again cause the battery no longer had enough power to turn it over again. Put a fully charged battery out of a different car and there was just a pop, like a fuse popping in the engine bay, checked all fuses all are fine. Negative terminal of new battery made crackling noises and some smoke came out. Even with a new battery the starter would spin and spin then all of a sudden nothing and the lights were flickering. Put battery back in other car, every thing is fine. Charged old battery tried cranking but still not enough power to turn engine over. That's where i'm at now. Got couple codes which are crank and crankshaft sensor related, 1* and 120* signal. Both codes apparently could be due to a weak battery. Checked the crankshaft sensor(POS) and harness and all that and it's good. Haven't gotten to the CPS (REF) troubleshooting yet. Thinking it might be the harness but I have a spare one. The battery thing is what has me worried most for now. Going back to the FSM and going over the charging system section.
The DEK is from a 2000 car, 5spd, sensors are from 4th gen, 5th gen tb and IACV, no egr, 4th gen rear VC and coils, 5th gen fuel rail.
The DEK is from a 2000 car, 5spd, sensors are from 4th gen, 5th gen tb and IACV, no egr, 4th gen rear VC and coils, 5th gen fuel rail.
07-18-2009, 04:02 PM
#3
No no. 96.
Today I finally got it to crank on a consistent basis. Was checking for spark and fuel and it would always fire and struggle with any one of the front plugs removed. When I got to the rears the battery was just no longer usable. Jumping it with other cars and jumper boxes did nothing. Changed out a starter and that was nothing. Now I'm trying to test every possible problem in the starting "circuit"? What is the voltage across the starter solenoid, which I just ripped into pieces with a ratchet, supposed to be? I had the battery hooked up to another car and the jumper box and as soon as I cranked the voltage at the starter dropped to 5-6v.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rank-help.html
same problem it seems to me except I'm already on a second engine...
Today I finally got it to crank on a consistent basis. Was checking for spark and fuel and it would always fire and struggle with any one of the front plugs removed. When I got to the rears the battery was just no longer usable. Jumping it with other cars and jumper boxes did nothing. Changed out a starter and that was nothing. Now I'm trying to test every possible problem in the starting "circuit"? What is the voltage across the starter solenoid, which I just ripped into pieces with a ratchet, supposed to be? I had the battery hooked up to another car and the jumper box and as soon as I cranked the voltage at the starter dropped to 5-6v.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rank-help.html
same problem it seems to me except I'm already on a second engine...
07-18-2009, 04:20 PM
#4
No no. 96.
Today I finally got it to crank on a consistent basis. Was checking for spark and fuel and it would always fire and struggle with any one of the front plugs removed. When I got to the rears the battery was just no longer usable. Jumping it with other cars and jumper boxes did nothing. Changed out a starter and that was nothing. Now I'm trying to test every possible problem in the starting "circuit"? What is the voltage across the starter solenoid, which I just ripped into pieces with a ratchet, supposed to be? I had the battery hooked up to another car and the jumper box and as soon as I cranked the voltage at the starter dropped to 5-6v.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rank-help.html
same problem it seems to me except I'm already on a second engine...
Today I finally got it to crank on a consistent basis. Was checking for spark and fuel and it would always fire and struggle with any one of the front plugs removed. When I got to the rears the battery was just no longer usable. Jumping it with other cars and jumper boxes did nothing. Changed out a starter and that was nothing. Now I'm trying to test every possible problem in the starting "circuit"? What is the voltage across the starter solenoid, which I just ripped into pieces with a ratchet, supposed to be? I had the battery hooked up to another car and the jumper box and as soon as I cranked the voltage at the starter dropped to 5-6v.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rank-help.html
same problem it seems to me except I'm already on a second engine...
07-19-2009, 07:54 AM
#7
Yeah, I spent a couple hours yesterday redoing all the grounds, drinding and sanding with a dremel. The only thing I didn't do is the one ground that comes right off the battery and is grounded on top of the wheel well.. It's held in by a 10mm bolt that I know will break off on me as soon as I touch it. So today I was gonna get new wire and replace that completely as well as add some new trans grounds..
07-20-2009, 06:55 AM
#8
Yeah, I spent a couple hours yesterday redoing all the grounds, drinding and sanding with a dremel. The only thing I didn't do is the one ground that comes right off the battery and is grounded on top of the wheel well.. It's held in by a 10mm bolt that I know will break off on me as soon as I touch it. So today I was gonna get new wire and replace that completely as well as add some new trans grounds..
Last edited by 96sleepergle; 07-20-2009 at 08:08 AM.
07-20-2009, 08:07 AM
#10
07-20-2009, 10:08 AM
#12
sorry if im jumping in to ur thread but i've had similar problems w/ my dek in my 99. i was wondering if i swapped the harness and ecu to a 95-96 if it would start and run. being that it doesn't have the immobilizer crap will the car run fine with just swapping that stuff out of is there more work involved? thanks
07-20-2009, 04:09 PM
#13
07-21-2009, 07:38 AM
#15
The way it is wrapped around the pump was the weirdst thing ive ever encountered the hose was 10 years old leaking the pressure out so by the time it gets to the engine the pressure was near zero did you figure out your problem? By the way with the light weight flywheel spec clutch, being the cams and crank shafts are hollo in the dek it revs very very fast so smooth ! real sweet
Last edited by 96sleepergle; 07-21-2009 at 07:51 AM.
07-21-2009, 07:57 AM
#16
sorry if im jumping in to ur thread but i've had similar problems w/ my dek in my 99. i was wondering if i swapped the harness and ecu to a 95-96 if it would start and run. being that it doesn't have the immobilizer crap will the car run fine with just swapping that stuff out of is there more work involved? thanks
07-22-2009, 10:47 AM
#17
Ok, car starts!
But doesn't stay on. I need to feed it gas for it to stay running. If I keep it running at around 1k it kinda is rough. Not a misfire or anything cause there are no codes!!! So either a leak? But I made sure there were none and I can't see where one could be coming from.
At around 2000-2500rpm it stumbles. It kinda stops going up, does a hiccup thing, and then it revs higher. Yes, I'm thinking MAF but could it go wrong from just sitting for a couple years?
My vacuum is pretty simple actually. Goes from the small nipple from top of the VI to a T that then splits between the FPR, EVAP solenoid and map/baro solenoid. Then I have one coming straight off the evap solenoid and going to the evap solenoid valve black mushroom thing. One from the map/baro solenoid going to the "boost sensor".
I wish there were codes to tell me what the hell is wrong...
But doesn't stay on. I need to feed it gas for it to stay running. If I keep it running at around 1k it kinda is rough. Not a misfire or anything cause there are no codes!!! So either a leak? But I made sure there were none and I can't see where one could be coming from.
At around 2000-2500rpm it stumbles. It kinda stops going up, does a hiccup thing, and then it revs higher. Yes, I'm thinking MAF but could it go wrong from just sitting for a couple years?
My vacuum is pretty simple actually. Goes from the small nipple from top of the VI to a T that then splits between the FPR, EVAP solenoid and map/baro solenoid. Then I have one coming straight off the evap solenoid and going to the evap solenoid valve black mushroom thing. One from the map/baro solenoid going to the "boost sensor".
I wish there were codes to tell me what the hell is wrong...
07-23-2009, 01:17 AM
#18
no you cant by pass the theft system and dont stick another key in the ignition other than the key that is programed for your car if you do you have to visit your friendly neighbor hood nissan dealer they will crack your wallet plus the towing to the dealer = broke bank
Ok, car starts!
But doesn't stay on. I need to feed it gas for it to stay running. If I keep it running at around 1k it kinda is rough. Not a misfire or anything cause there are no codes!!! So either a leak? But I made sure there were none and I can't see where one could be coming from.
At around 2000-2500rpm it stumbles. It kinda stops going up, does a hiccup thing, and then it revs higher. Yes, I'm thinking MAF but could it go wrong from just sitting for a couple years?
My vacuum is pretty simple actually. Goes from the small nipple from top of the VI to a T that then splits between the FPR, EVAP solenoid and map/baro solenoid. Then I have one coming straight off the evap solenoid and going to the evap solenoid valve black mushroom thing. One from the map/baro solenoid going to the "boost sensor".
I wish there were codes to tell me what the hell is wrong...
But doesn't stay on. I need to feed it gas for it to stay running. If I keep it running at around 1k it kinda is rough. Not a misfire or anything cause there are no codes!!! So either a leak? But I made sure there were none and I can't see where one could be coming from.
At around 2000-2500rpm it stumbles. It kinda stops going up, does a hiccup thing, and then it revs higher. Yes, I'm thinking MAF but could it go wrong from just sitting for a couple years?
My vacuum is pretty simple actually. Goes from the small nipple from top of the VI to a T that then splits between the FPR, EVAP solenoid and map/baro solenoid. Then I have one coming straight off the evap solenoid and going to the evap solenoid valve black mushroom thing. One from the map/baro solenoid going to the "boost sensor".
I wish there were codes to tell me what the hell is wrong...
How exactly did you 'make sure' that there are no leaks?
A MAF can be damaged just from moving it around harshly, so I've seen.
Personally I'd run the FPR on it's own seperate vac line.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Have you checked your IACV at all? It should at least try to hold an idle. How did you wire that up? Breaking apart the A32 connector, or replacing the pigtail with one from an A33?
07-23-2009, 07:16 AM
#19
There's no need to tow to the dealer if you try to start it up with the incorrect key. There is a lock out reset procedure specifically for that.
Just because there are no codes, does not mean there is or is not a misfire. You can't rely on codes for everything, it's not exactly the most rare thing to have a symptom without a code.
How exactly did you 'make sure' that there are no leaks?
A MAF can be damaged just from moving it around harshly, so I've seen.
Personally I'd run the FPR on it's own seperate vac line.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Have you checked your IACV at all? It should at least try to hold an idle. How did you wire that up? Breaking apart the A32 connector, or replacing the pigtail with one from an A33?
Just because there are no codes, does not mean there is or is not a misfire. You can't rely on codes for everything, it's not exactly the most rare thing to have a symptom without a code.
How exactly did you 'make sure' that there are no leaks?
A MAF can be damaged just from moving it around harshly, so I've seen.
Personally I'd run the FPR on it's own seperate vac line.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Have you checked your IACV at all? It should at least try to hold an idle. How did you wire that up? Breaking apart the A32 connector, or replacing the pigtail with one from an A33?
07-23-2009, 07:23 AM
#20
Never had a problem with it myself.
And I don't think the CONSULT-III even works on the A32 ECU.
07-23-2009, 07:39 AM
#21
There's no need to tow to the dealer if you try to start it up with the incorrect key. There is a lock out reset procedure specifically for that.
Just because there are no codes, does not mean there is or is not a misfire. You can't rely on codes for everything, it's not exactly the most rare thing to have a symptom without a code.
How exactly did you 'make sure' that there are no leaks?
A MAF can be damaged just from moving it around harshly, so I've seen.
Personally I'd run the FPR on it's own seperate vac line.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Have you checked your IACV at all? It should at least try to hold an idle. How did you wire that up? Breaking apart the A32 connector, or replacing the pigtail with one from an A33?
Just because there are no codes, does not mean there is or is not a misfire. You can't rely on codes for everything, it's not exactly the most rare thing to have a symptom without a code.
How exactly did you 'make sure' that there are no leaks?
A MAF can be damaged just from moving it around harshly, so I've seen.
Personally I'd run the FPR on it's own seperate vac line.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Have you checked your IACV at all? It should at least try to hold an idle. How did you wire that up? Breaking apart the A32 connector, or replacing the pigtail with one from an A33?
When the car runs there is no hissing or or any vacuum leak sound, all i hear is a hiss from the intake as it shuts off. There is nothing I could see that would prohibit the intake manifold from sitting flush. IACV connected with a32 connector. At 1000rpm it does kinda feel like a misfire, smooth smooth burp smooth smooth burp, I feel it through the gas pedal. Then around 2k there is that stutter and it picks up again. That could be a notchy TB but it feels smooth when I do it by hand.
I'll run a separate line for the FPR to the nipple right under the brake booster nipple on the IM, after I buy back the vacuum hose I returned. I'll unplug he MAF to see if there is a difference, and I'll swap out the IACV as well.
I'll have a maf to try on saturday.
07-26-2009, 08:53 AM
#22
The little vacuum valve, is it important, what does it do, what is it connected to? I was taking the vacuum hoses off it and of course it just twisted the plastic inlets so I can't use it anymore.
07-26-2009, 08:54 AM
#23
And you do know that mspaint does have text input, right? No need to take the time to draw text out with the line tool.
07-26-2009, 09:37 AM
#25
07-26-2009, 09:55 AM
#26
On a 4th gen, where do the ends of that valve go to? Obviously vacuum, one end goes where and the other end goes where?
I chose to manually draw it cause I was bored and figured people would get a kick out of it. You're questioning what I do with my own time?
07-26-2009, 10:02 AM
#27
So again:
07-26-2009, 12:51 PM
#29
Since you've neglected to either tell us what year car you have, or fill out your profile, I'll assume you've got a '98.
The check valve leads to the EVAP solenoid.
If you are not a '98, then consult your proper year FSM's routing diagram.
Last edited by pmohr; 07-26-2009 at 12:58 PM.
07-26-2009, 01:19 PM
#31
07-26-2009, 07:09 PM
#32
Have an idling issue. Changed out the IACV, cleaned out the IACV chamber. Car started, no need to give gas, and ran fine for the 1st 15 seconds, idle was only 1000 though and started falling, after about a minute it died. Had 3 codes, 0102 maf, 0103 ects, and 0205 IACV. Unplugged IACV reconnected and now car won't start without foot on throttle. If I give it gas for about 10 seconds though it will keep running but at 400rpm or so, no codes. If I disconnect the IACV while car is running there is no change, dunno if that's normal but I thought I'd throw that in there. Can't hear any air leaks and only hissing sound I hear is from front header gasket area. TPS checked fine open and closed, IACV is fine as well, both of them. Just noticed I don't have a dipstick. Anyway, pouring rain so I'll pick up again tomorrow. Open to suggestions...
07-26-2009, 07:18 PM
#33
Have an idling issue. Changed out the IACV, cleaned out the IACV chamber. Car started, no need to give gas, and ran fine for the 1st 15 seconds, idle was only 1000 though and started falling, after about a minute it died. Had 3 codes, 0102 maf, 0103 ects, and 0205 IACV. Unplugged IACV reconnected and now car won't start without foot on throttle. If I give it gas for about 10 seconds though it will keep running but at 400rpm or so, no codes. If I disconnect the IACV while car is running there is no change, dunno if that's normal but I thought I'd throw that in there. Can't hear any air leaks and only hissing sound I hear is from front header gasket area. TPS checked fine open and closed, IACV is fine as well, both of them. Just noticed I don't have a dipstick. Anyway, pouring rain so I'll pick up again tomorrow. Open to suggestions...
07-26-2009, 07:32 PM
#34
Yeah, outer wall cut off. The valve moves towards the body of the IACV, with IACV removed, when I put the key in the ON position so I'm guessing it works. It feels like they're going in cause there's that slight resistance as they go in. At the same time they could be going into the space right outside the slots.
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 07-26-2009 at 07:54 PM.
07-27-2009, 11:23 AM
#35
Woke up tpday to a maf sensor code and a IACV code. Took IACV off and swapped with another one. The one I had in there was fully extended and moved a bit inward, the one on there now is maybe 1/4" less out and moves inward as well. Fired right up and idled at around 1300 for 30 seconds then slowly went down to 550 or so. The IACV definitely works cause I can hear it retracting and letting in air, loud whooooosh from the intake.
However, not sure if it's normal for it to retract every few seconds and let air in. I'm thinking something is still a bit off.
Shut car off tried to start it again and no go, again had to give it gas for a second so it could "catch" I guess and then it ran fine. Terrible belt squeak, probably pulley(water pump?) as I loosened the belts a bit yesterday. Codes haven't came back. The rpm hesitation is STILL there! Right around 2500 it jerks and then keeps going up and once I let off the gas it jerks and holds again for a split second then falls back down. Might be MAF but I'm thinking notchy cable cause if I use the TB itself to rev it there is no hesitation or at least I can't feel it.
I need someone with a 5th gen IACV to tell me if the IACV is working as it should with the random opening and closing. I would think vacuum leak but I just can't hear it. I went around the engine bay and pushed down on the IM to see if the rpm changed but nothing same with playing with vacuum hoses, no change.
However, not sure if it's normal for it to retract every few seconds and let air in. I'm thinking something is still a bit off.
Shut car off tried to start it again and no go, again had to give it gas for a second so it could "catch" I guess and then it ran fine. Terrible belt squeak, probably pulley(water pump?) as I loosened the belts a bit yesterday. Codes haven't came back. The rpm hesitation is STILL there! Right around 2500 it jerks and then keeps going up and once I let off the gas it jerks and holds again for a split second then falls back down. Might be MAF but I'm thinking notchy cable cause if I use the TB itself to rev it there is no hesitation or at least I can't feel it.
I need someone with a 5th gen IACV to tell me if the IACV is working as it should with the random opening and closing. I would think vacuum leak but I just can't hear it. I went around the engine bay and pushed down on the IM to see if the rpm changed but nothing same with playing with vacuum hoses, no change.
07-27-2009, 11:26 AM
#36
Woke up tpday to a maf sensor code and a IACV code. Took IACV off and swapped with another one. The one I had in there was fully extended and moved a bit inward, the one on there now is maybe 1/4" less out and moves inward as well. Fired right up and idled at around 1300 for 30 seconds then slowly went down to 550 or so. The IACV definitely works cause I can hear it retracting and letting in air, loud whooooosh from the intake.
However, not sure if it's normal for it to retract every few seconds and let air in. I'm thinking something is still a bit off.
Shut car off tried to start it again and no go, again had to give it gas for a second so it could "catch" I guess and then it ran fine. Terrible belt squeak, probably pulley(water pump?) as I loosened the belts a bit yesterday. Codes haven't came back. The rpm hesitation is STILL there! Right around 2500 it jerks and then keeps going up and once I let off the gas it jerks and holds again for a split second then falls back down. Might be MAF but I'm thinking notchy cable cause if I use the TB itself to rev it there is no hesitation or at least I can't feel it.
I need someone with a 5th gen IACV to tell me if the IACV is working as it should with the random opening and closing. I would think vacuum leak but I just can't hear it. I went around the engine bay and pushed down on the IM to see if the rpm changed but nothing same with playing with vacuum hoses, no change.
However, not sure if it's normal for it to retract every few seconds and let air in. I'm thinking something is still a bit off.
Shut car off tried to start it again and no go, again had to give it gas for a second so it could "catch" I guess and then it ran fine. Terrible belt squeak, probably pulley(water pump?) as I loosened the belts a bit yesterday. Codes haven't came back. The rpm hesitation is STILL there! Right around 2500 it jerks and then keeps going up and once I let off the gas it jerks and holds again for a split second then falls back down. Might be MAF but I'm thinking notchy cable cause if I use the TB itself to rev it there is no hesitation or at least I can't feel it.
I need someone with a 5th gen IACV to tell me if the IACV is working as it should with the random opening and closing. I would think vacuum leak but I just can't hear it. I went around the engine bay and pushed down on the IM to see if the rpm changed but nothing same with playing with vacuum hoses, no change.
If you're getting a MAF code, and hesitation right around 2500, why do you not suspect the MAF? I'd at least test it and the harness.
07-27-2009, 01:06 PM
#37
not water pump, PS pump, my bad. That's the only pulley on the car left from the 96...
I didn't suspect the MAF cause when I unplug it everything goes to ****. It could be intermittent though as the harness and sensor both check out. I also thought that a bad MAF prohibits the engine from going past 2500rpm not having a hiccup at 2500 and then continuing normally. I'll try to get the MAF from the gf's car, should've yesterday. As for he idle I guess I'll play with that little with the fast idle adjust screw...
I didn't suspect the MAF cause when I unplug it everything goes to ****. It could be intermittent though as the harness and sensor both check out. I also thought that a bad MAF prohibits the engine from going past 2500rpm not having a hiccup at 2500 and then continuing normally. I'll try to get the MAF from the gf's car, should've yesterday. As for he idle I guess I'll play with that little with the fast idle adjust screw...
Last edited by DAVE Sz; 07-27-2009 at 01:26 PM.
07-27-2009, 05:37 PM
#38
Squeaking noise must've been the belt tensioner pulley, could spin it freely with my hand when it was tightened. The belt was just sliding on the pulley. Went to loosen the top adjusting nut and it just snapped off. So now looking for a belt tensioner and pulley...
07-27-2009, 05:42 PM
#39
Did you loosen the locknut before you started wrenching on the adjuster nut?