The rail I sold you is from an 02. I have the damper still if you want to give it a shot. Shoot me a PM with an offer. Id love to help you out since you bought all that other stuff from me.

 

IF your picture is an exact representation of your setup, then you've made a HUGE, EPIC blunder.

That 4th gen FPR absolutely must NOT be where it is. Remove it at once!!!! If you don't have *another* return line coming from that 4th gen APR, then you have the 4th gen APR connected backwards which won't allow any fuel to reach the rails.

A FPR is not supposed to act as a restriction in the line. It's designed to bleed off the excess pressure.

Yes, an engine can run briefly without spark with starter fluid. It can use compression/heat alone to ignite the mixture. The autoignition temperature of ether is only 170 °C (338°F). That's easily achievable with compression alone.

 

So your saying that the 4t gen fpr does not go on the supply side? Does that mean that the fpr regulates fuel returning to the tank? I thought it regulated fuel pressure entering the rail. The fsm doesn't really explain.

 

Seriously, I don't know how much more clear I can be on this. This is the third time it's been explained to you.

The FPR DOES NOT ACT AS A FLOW RESTRICTER!! This is how you have it setup. The FPR is supposed to bleed off excess pressure and return that excess fuel to the tank.

Your ebay FPR is setup correctly. Your 4th gen one is not. There's no reason in the world to have two FPRs. Putting a FPR inline with the fuel inlet to the rail will never ever in a million billion years work correctly.

On the 4th gen setup, there's a FPR on the fuel rail OUTLET. When the pressure in the rail rises above spec, the FPR opens up and bleeds off that excess fuel pressure to the fuel tank. It does not act as a restricter to the fuel rail inlet.

 

The stock 3.5 damper is not your problem, your problem is having the 4th gen fpr in there. You only need one FPR, if you want to run stock fuel pressure, put the 4th gen fpr where you have the ebay one. You dont really need 50+psi like we used to think. so you can have the stock fpr and its fine. your plumbing is fine, just only have one fpr at the T not on the rail

 

This is how you should have it, this picture is by 96sleeper. You want to have it like the "Old Setup(top diagram)"

 

Either setup shown in this picture will work just fine. In fact, the "old" setup shown in the top will work slightly better because you're not returning warmed up fuel to the tank.

IMAO, a returnless setup has very marginal benefits on a NA build.

 

Well technically we cant classify it as returnless, its still returning fuel to the tank, just not going through the rail.
But yeah, either setup will work, I am still using the "old setup" even with my built turbo setup. Some have had issues leaning out with this setup but I havent somehow.

 

I was under the impression that the fpr went on the input. It all makes sense now. The 4th gen fpr looks similar to the input damper on the 3.5 fuel rail. Thank you for your help, Reizy sent me the damper with inlet so it should be running real soon. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Got a pretty good oil leak coming from near the rear valve cover close to the ps pump. Had a pcv hose disconnected too. There was the odd backfire and some valve rattle persists. Please watch the video and provide feetback.

Thanks to all who helped me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol8gMavwTqA

 

How does it rev? Did you fix the PCV hose leak? Because it sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak. If there's no more vacuum leaks, then it should not backfire if properly timed. The rattle sounds like my engine did when I busted a couple of valves in the #3 cylinder due to cam timing being off. It ran like @ss with no power, backfiring, hard starting, and wouldn't rev worth a $hit.

As for the oil leak, it may be leaking at the timing cover. Usually valve cover gasket leaks are slow leaks.

 

She revs well, the vacuum leak will be addressed. The pcv hose was reconnected. I'll see how she runs with vacuum leak fixed. I have a pos throttle bracket atm too so I need to work on that. I suspected the timing cover too, but a quick look all around the timing cover initially shows no sign of leaking, it could be right behind the ps pump though. I know for sure the o rings were put on with the rear cover. I'll have to wait until I can ivestigate it further.

 

congrats on getting it running! Now it's the fun part! Trouble shooting :-D BTW that's an awesome clutch you have there. I had that with a stock AND later a Fidanza FW both on turbo and NA build later. I adored that clutch! Well worth the $

 

Glad its running.. 95blkmax what u doing posting here, u dont belong here no more lol

 

OK, just got back to work on it today, between work and trip to europe, it's freaking impossible to work on it sometimes. Fixed the vacuum leaks and the makeshift throttle bracket is working for now. Started her up today and down to 2 issues. Still got the rattle and the oil leak. It really looks like the oil leak is coming from the rear valve cover near the cam journal. The reason I believe this is because I think I was a bit trigger happy with the RTV under the gasket and a couple of globs prevented a good seal. I know it could still be coming from behind the timing cover, but this is easier to try first. Other than the oil leak and valve rattle, she idles nice and smoothm, no backfiring. If the oil leak is fixed by the new valve cover gasket then I just need to figure out if I have a bent valve or timing is off. I have a nagging feeling I might have a bent valve.

Does anyone have some valve cover screws they could send me?

 

Replaced valve cover gasket with no luck. Oil still coming out at a pretty good stream, it's definately coming from the valve cover. I think what's happening is a bent valve is letting more oil into the camshafts and is pouring out the valve cover. the car runs and doesn't backfire, but there i a definate problem with something, just not sure what.

Anyone got any ideas?

 

Leak was coming from the VIAS CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE (or lack thereof) I never installed it as I didn't think I needed it due not using vias timing. Anyways she purrs now except when I rev it, then the rattle comes back. Think I'll get a new tensioner and see if that helps. Got some work to do on the TB to adjust the idle and make a bracket but the days of getting out on the road are much closer!!!!

 

I bet you will be exited as hell to driver her. All that hard work payed off. Good job keep us updated . and Pics

 

OK, almost done. Replaced tensioner with the gasket, hoping this will solve the rattle issue. Throttle bracket to hold the cable is turning out to be a royal pita. Caliper to finish rebuilding and my rear O2 sensor is too small for the hole in my aftermarket pipe. Not sure what to do here, hopefully someone reading this will have an idea. Will post vids of driving car really soon.

 

For the throttle bracket, I went to the Home Despot and bought a heavy 3/16" thick 6" "L" bracket like that you would use for framing/fencing and I cut it down and dremeled out some slots for the cables to go into. I wish I had a pic, but I'm out of town with my truck today.

I got a couple of longer bolts that hold the "elbow" to the UIM and used nuts on the end of those bolts to secure the bracket. It's a little ghetto, but it works great.

As for your rear O2 sensor, just take it to a muffler shop and have them weld on a new O2 bung. It takes 5 minutes and it shouldn't cost you more than $10 or $20.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=binPALt9fgQ (First Time Driven)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_Jqz2RvEYI (shifting down on way back home)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTOD-690gd0 (Running much better with new tensioner)

Much respect due to the org and all those who helped my rookie *** with this less than rookie mod, especially MY WIFE, CRYSTAL, Weimar Ben for patience and assistance, she pulls very well, there will be many more mods and much tweaking is still to be done but the worst is over and I took her around the block yesterday and all I can say is WOW! This ***** is MEAN. Mods so far:

Body: 1995 GXE 5 Speed, black on black 153k Miles ALL options
G35 18s
Updated Pioneer Head unit with wiring for subs (subs & amp TBD)
Clear Corners
2008 VQ35 w/1400 miles (from maxima, abandoned by Nissan dealer after warranty repair job that involved replacing entire engine that was found to be a bad sensor )
VQ30 ECU and Timing
Fidanza Flywheel
ACT 6 Puck Clutch
Warpspeed Y-Pipe with 2.5 after market cat and 4" pipe
SS Clutch Lines
SS Brake lines with slotted/drilled rotors
UDP
NGK Platinum Plugs
2 Ga Negative battery cable direct bolt to tranny

Mods To Be done:
Tint
upgrade suspension
Replace Rear Brakes
Pathfinder TB?
Paint

The jury rigged TPS bracket and the e-gas without the IACV makes the idle very inconsistant, if I tap the gas pedal and let go, engine dies, but if I stop short of letting the pedal out all the way, it will idle anywhere from 800-1500. Sux, think I will replace with mallfinder TB. The TB I have sticks when it closes, combined with shaking tps makes it difficult, evident in last vid posted when she dies just before I pull in my driveway.

 

Congratz Remmi !....Sounds amazing.

 

Alright, I've searched the forums and am having difficulty understanding what to do with the two outlet tubes on the pathy TB, are they both for cooland or is one for vacuum and the other coolant?

 

the 10mm tubes? one is coolant in and the other is coolant out

 

So I live in Savannah, GA and don't need to worry about icing, can I just remove that bottom part and block the whole?

 

Are you using the 4th gen IACV? if so, you can remove the entire bottom part and block it off.

 

Yup using 4th gen iacv with Stephen Max's adapter plate. Do I have to drill and tap the IM or can I plug the iacv into the existing nipple on the IM?

 

For those who use UDP, are you using stock 4th gen tensioner? I've got my stock pulley on atm because when I had the UDP on, the tensioner was starting to bottom out and bend before there was enough tension on the belt. :/.

Also, what do you guys using pathy TB with coolant lines bypassed use to block off the holes at the bottom of the TB? I don't have any means to do metal fab. Does anyone make a block off plate for this?

 

I cut out a piece from a road sign, used RTV and 4 original bolts + washers.

 

2008 VQ35... From what donor vehicle??

 

Did you get the appropriate belt size for the pulley you used?

 

For a UDP, you have to use a different (shorter) belt so that you can get enough tension on it. There's a gates part# on the forums about it.

A blockoff plate is not hard to make. Just go to the home despot and get some thick sheet metal, cut it to a rough shape using a jig saw or dremel, sand the edges, and use some RTV and bolts to block off.

 

Block off plate installed, also is PFTB. Having problems fabricating bracket to house 4th gen cable holder (the dual one with the cc that previously sat on old 3.0 IM). Does anyone make a custom bracket like this for sale? I just don't have the tools to fab this thing and after a week of dehydration from the south GA late summer, i'm ready to pay to have someone fab me one if possible. Or, possible someone has made one and no longer uses it?

 

Ok I got too impatient and managed to fab a half way decent bracket from a simson strap, also gotta a vacuum leak between PFTB and Stephen Max's adapter plate. There's a felpro pftb gasket in there, gonna try RTV instead hopefully that will take care of it. Last thing is the IACV, when I hook it up, it just clicks incessantly. Anyone know what could cause this?

 

RTV did the trick. Seems to be idling ok using set-screw on TB, without the IACV atm.

Is there any way to torque crank pulley other than using the flywheel? Im afraid of damaging it by using the teeth to stop in from pulling. 140FtLbs of torque is a lot of stress to place on flywheel, especially brand new fidanza.

 

Put it in gear and tighten it

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate all the help. One final question:

The cooling system is operating fine, however I was wondering if there is a way to to make the thermostat open/cooling fan come on sooner (other than wiring in a switch and manually operating fan which I would rather not do), temp gauge sits at around 45% of gauge value, which seems a little high. It's Georgia and the climate here is brutal on a black on black car.

 

it came from a warranty repair job on one of the last 08 maximas. Tech couldn't isolate root cause so Nissan shipped a new crated motor from Japan. Well after the new motor went in... infamous CEL returns. Now he's totally stumped. Apparently someone else discovered a bad sensor . Nissan told dealer to scrap the engine as it wasn't worth shipping back and had no use for it. Their loss, my gain. As an engineer, i've learned not to simply throw parts at problems, it gets costly.

 

 

Buh bye VQ30


To Shave or Not to Shave?...hmm..to not. upper vq30 it is



Alas the Fidanza

Rest of pics are posted...