im assuming the ground is what i would run to my rpm switch? and id just run the power straight to the battery

 

pics from yesterday...btw i still need to a bit more detail on running the Summit switch to the VIAS

EGR block off with a gasket to prevent leaks...it was almost impossible to take the tube off so w/e it works


Painted the Front Valve Cover Gunmetal Grey and installed the 5th gen Rear valve cover with all new spark plug tube seals and gaskets for both

 

Yep the ground is what you run to the summit switch.

 

with running the other line to the battery do i need to run a resistor or bypass or should it be all good?


Thanks for all the help 96nismose

 

When I installed my 00vi, the UIM didn't sit correctly with the 4th gen egr tube still attached (with egr blockoff on the uim). You could probably bend it out of the way, but I just removed mine.

 

ill probably have to bend it out of the way...

 

I had my power hooked up the cig lighter so there wouldnt be power running to it when the cars off.

no prob!

thats what i did. just a few taps of a hammer. you may also have to take off the passenger side manifold support braket that was originaly used for the usim.

 

I got just about everything together...LIM is all drilled up and not but no i have a stipped bolt and i will be solving that and it should be up and running by tonight i hope

 

Well it started...got to about 400rpm then died...and got the code for IACV fso im going to try to do the 5th gen iacv tomorrow afternoon again... any tips on how the pins should go and how to now when they are connected??

couldve sworn they were together...guess not..

also I have 4 bolts tourqued down ood two on the outside two on the inside... should have no leaks right? i really dont wanna pull it off again and redo everything

 

no idea for iacv. i used my 4th gen one. as for the manifold as long as it seals nice you should be fine. a lot of people only run two in the middle.

 

For the IACV, the yellow wire should be on the top of the connector.

 

i have the wire in the right order i just have to go bend those pins later today and see if theyll work...and

a couple of the bolts i cant really torque down well (two top middle and the right middle bolt but the 2 outside are nice and tight and the middle left is torqued down nice and tight

if i have a leak from there i have a spare lower with me that I can re-drill today...so i should get it running by tonight or tomorrow hopefully

 

Well I got it all started....still got a P0505 for the IACV and sounded like a vac leak so I have a spare lower im drilling tonight and will put in tomorrow morning and try again.

also

i had to push on the gas in order to start the car then the car revved between 1500 and 2500 rpms on it own? A mix of the IACV and a vac leak combined?

 

How will redrilling another LIM rid you of a vacuum leak? I had an issue with being able to torque the bolts due to an inadequate substance used to fill the originals, so I used threaded rod (not to fill the holes, rather it sticks out of the LIM and the UIM slides onto it) after the original threads stripped, and now it tightens nicely. Did you make sure your old EGR tube or the original manifold brackets (near firewall) aren't influenceing the UIM's position? When you stick your head near the battery and peak behind the valve runners, is there a visible gap between the L/UIM ?

Also, If it makes you feel better, the first couple times I put on my 01 UIM, it took 2-3 tries to get it sitting right. Doing an x with the mids, then the 2 sidebolts seems to work best (tightening sequence). It doesnt need to be tight, just enough to press down on the rubber gasket evenly.

 

well i messed up a bit on drilling the lim the first time and the material i used to fill the middle rear holes (jb weld) was mixed right and or didnt allow enough time to cure so i do have some threaded rods in the one and im letting the permatex dry on them and will drill it in the morning.

I made sure i pushed the EGR tube back as far as I could and made sure there for no gap, but i know what your talking about. had that problem the first time i put the UIM in and didnt notice til after i tightened down the bolts so i may have stripped them a bit but i do have a tap and die set.

I should have everything torn down and rebuilt by tomorrow afternoon depending on when I start....

also where is the best place to mount the TB cables without interfering with the FSTB?

 

btw random and a little late...couldnt find a pic of an 00vi gasket. is this what one looks like?

 

alright well since i am barely getting any help im gonna make a thread about my idle issues on the main 4th gen forum

 

yep thats the gasket

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....85#post7553085

link to my idle issue thread

 

The code is caused by not having the IACV plugged in all the way.
Vacuum leaks will cause it to jump from 1.5k to 2.5k. Did you reconnect the coolant lines to the TB? If you didn't, the coolant passages on the TB need to be blocked off.

Which TB cable bracket do you have?

 

just watched the vid. i was gonna ask the came thing about the throttle cable bracket. i had issues with a sticky throttle and idle issues because my cables were to tight.

 

just using my 95 throttle cable bracket i didnt get one with my kit...i turned it a bit and i was able to start the car without having to mash on the gas so i might try adjusting it later

the coolant nipples and vacuum caps over them.

IACV code went away today...just that idle form 1500-2000...if i could get the think to stop jumping and idle lower...haha

i gotta get this finished by thursday morning i work on friday all day ...

 

theres also a little screw on the throttle body itself you can adjust. i had to do that as well.

 

Try loosening/tightening the throttle cable with the car on. See if that helps with the idle at all. I did that rather than adjusting my TPS

Do you have all of the hoses hooked up properly to the manifold?
Does the idle still dance around once the car is warmed up?

Every time I start up my car (unless its already warm) The idle will do a little dancing around until I get moving. After that its fine.

 

you know i dont know i havent let it warm up completely because i noticed i had a coolant leak haha....

ill post a pic of the TB can u circle the idle screw for me?

ill try tightening or loosening the TB.

Thanks guys really appreciate the help

 

its that little guy

 

okay thats what i thought Ill play with that stuff later. I will report back in the morning

 

i adjusted the TPS to where it read 5 volts and it started smoother (had the gator clips on an ohm meter attached to wires 2 and 3) still revved from 1500-2000 rpms ...i adjusted the throttle cable by loosening it and it stayed steady....at 3000 rpms

any ideas?

 

car wont even start now...it cranks starts then dies .....i replaced the upper gasket with a newer one and bent this down a little...any help?

 

Dude. First off, 2 questions. 1) 5 volts? Where did you get that number from. 2) did you blockoff the A33 IACV? I don't remember reading that you did.

Try unplugging your TPS plugs (yes you'll get a code) and see if it starts, no input will be better than that input. Calibrate at WOT to 4 volts or slightly less, then at closed throttle (if you adjusted the screw) it should read a little higher than .5 (stock is .5 (closed)-4(open) ideally. When adjusting the screw, calibrate from the top/open throttle position (to make sure your ECU knows WOT when you tell it to) and the closed position will be a little higher than stock depending on how much you opened it. Mines at something like 3.99 WOT and .78 closed IIRC.

But you should get the car running and driving before fine tuning the TB settings. Don't just start turning your IACV screw with the car running either. Our stock A32 TB has a wax filament that coolant cools and heats, when the wax is cold and hard, the throttle plate stays open, when its hot, it closes. Just look at your A32 Tb off the car. The reason to adjust the TB screw on the a33TB (which lacks this filament) is to mimic this cold (wax hard and tb plate slightly open) to aid the A33 IACV in getting a little extra air past the throttle plate on startup. In the meantime, you can manually feed your UIM air by using your foot to get it started, automated idle air is a luxury feature. For now, conclude that you don't have a vacuum leak and get rid of that jumpy idle.

 

alright ill try and do that in the morning...

how exactly do i go about calibrating the TPS? I saw a nissan Service bulletin but the haynes manual was different...any help for that?

ill play with perfecting the idle later...i just wanna get the car running and driving..

and yeah i did block off the a33 iacv coolant ports

 

didnt get a chance to post up a video but found why it shut off after start up...i had a massive vac leak in the TB

Car starts with and without the TPS plugged in... with it plugged in it revs on its own up to almost 4k i hope this means i just need to calibrate it

without the TPS plugged in it starts at about 2000rpm then slowly drops to about 1200rpm then starts revving up.


any more help on calibrating the TPS?

 

what tps are you using? 4th or 5th?

 

4th gen tps

 

when adjusting the tps does the car need to be warmed up?

 

The Haynes is fine, and no the car can be cold.

In short, unplug the one plug you need to use the multimeter on, turn the ignition/accessory on, then calibrate to 3.90-3.99 or so at WOT (the haynes outlines which probes, etc). NO you can't just make a number like 5 and cross your fingers : ) Loosen the bolts on the TPS (a 95 will prob have screws, use vicesgrips, they strip) figure out which way brings it up and down, adjust slightly to get it to spec, tighten, re-check, you're done. (I always take the TB off to do this, since the A33 UIM gaskets are reusable). Mine is at something like 3.99 WOT and .78 or something at 'closed' position (which has the plate open slightly) with the IACV open a 1/4 turn and I get perfect cold starts (starts at 1200, idles at 650 [MT] using an a32 IACV, a32 TPS and A33 TB) It's important to get around 4 volts or slightly less at WOT so you're getting max output, the lower end (closed position has more to do with your idle). If you were at 5 volts, it makes sense that your car would jump to 4k without touching the pedal, since the TPS thinks you're slamming 3/4 on the gas.

If you're playing with the screw, loosen the retaining bolt (7mm IIRC) and adjust the screw, retighten the retaining bolt.

I had better luck with an A32 TPS, so good call. When you swapped it over, did you peek in the little gap to make the sure the contact is made on the little arm throughout the butterfly plates movement so it 'lifts' it? It's easy to install wrong.

You're getting close mang.

 

its about 3mm away from the arm ill take a picture and post if that would allow you guys to help me more

 

The TPS is on the other side of the throttle body, whats that pic about? When I said 'arm' i meant the pieces on the inside of the TPS itself (it's a potentiometer, its kindof like a slice of a clock that goes from 1 range to another (in this case, approx .5 - 4 volts), so there needs to be a 'lifting contact' on the arm when you open the throttle plate so the sensor knows its moving), you swapped it over from a a32 right? There should be a little 'window' on the TPS that allows you to peek in, peek in, pull open the throttle plate and make sure the arm moves, if it doesn't, it's 'over' it and needs to be 'under' it.

 

that was the idle screw wanted to know if it was in the proper place... and alright ill give it a shot here in a couple minutes and report back

 

for the idle screw you should adjust it when the cars on because vacuum is applied to that arm you mentioned which ssets it on the adjustment screw.