Russ's 00vi Swap
#82
FWIW - it helps to have the throttle plate exposed when adjusting that screw. I had to turn it way more than expected to get it to an eyeballed A32 TB 'cold position'
The goal is to use the TB to supplement the IACV with air at startup, so open the plate to get the necessary air, and then calibrate the TPS - think of this as your cold start calibration). Then once it starts all the time and is DDable, tweak your idle (ie bring it down) by unplugging your TPS, and turning your IACV 1/4 a turn, repeat until desired warm idle is set - this is your 'warm' calibration.
Hold the TB in your hand while doing this, it's 4 easy bolts.
The goal is to use the TB to supplement the IACV with air at startup, so open the plate to get the necessary air, and then calibrate the TPS - think of this as your cold start calibration). Then once it starts all the time and is DDable, tweak your idle (ie bring it down) by unplugging your TPS, and turning your IACV 1/4 a turn, repeat until desired warm idle is set - this is your 'warm' calibration.
Hold the TB in your hand while doing this, it's 4 easy bolts.
#84
alright neve3r got around to calibrating the TPS last night but am gonna do it tonight. Double checked everything with a small metal strip to detect air leaks. everything is good and blew air through the brake booster and checked all 5 of my vacuum lines and none have any leaks and i sealed the brass fittings with silicone and double checked all of the intake assembly and what not
tonight in about an hour ill be setting the TPS and playing with the idle screw...i was a bit confused as what the haynes said...do i wanna test the volts on the brown or the gray plug?
tonight in about an hour ill be setting the TPS and playing with the idle screw...i was a bit confused as what the haynes said...do i wanna test the volts on the brown or the gray plug?
#85
I forget which plug, the haynes has a pic and an illustration, I think the writeup even tells you which color the wires are coming off that plug, its all there.
#87
ah okay and yeah i think my od light was blinking because of either the sensor being unplugged and or the fact that im a retard and left my obd2 scanner plugged in for 3 hours draining my battery even further haha
#88
im stumped I set the TPS to .52ohms closed throttle per Haynes manual and 3.92 WOT and still had a warm idle of 3K...cold start was good though started at 2k dropped to 1100rpm then shot up to 3k ...i played with idle screw and everything to no avail...unless i get any other hints or tips to get my crazy idle under control ill be removing it all tomorrow afternoon and probably get a mevi instead
#89
Did you drive the car around? How long has it run? How much did you open the screw on the TB? Are your throttle cables way too tight or caught on something? So I take it for some reason an A32 IACV isn't an option for you?
#90
checked and re checked everything and no a32 iacv not an option i needed the car running by today so i put everything back to stock...decided i needed dependability more than anything
im a bit bummed but it took me maybe a day or two to actually install taking a few hours here and there but i spent a week figuring and trouble shooting
im a bit bummed but it took me maybe a day or two to actually install taking a few hours here and there but i spent a week figuring and trouble shooting
#91
Well im starting Part two of this. My issue last time was that...well i ran out of time to figure out the warm Idle. Cold idled fine then shot straight to 3000rpms steady
this time im using a 4th gen IACV and will be making my own block plates for the EGR, 5th gen tb
deciding if i should not run coolant through the 5th gen throttle body since i will have no IACV. I could use some input
Install will be next week sometime
this time im using a 4th gen IACV and will be making my own block plates for the EGR, 5th gen tb
deciding if i should not run coolant through the 5th gen throttle body since i will have no IACV. I could use some input
Install will be next week sometime
#93
#96
Will do guys. always appreciate the input.
My vacation got push forward a week so ill be starting a little tomorrow and doing the majority of it on thursday and friday.
tomorrow ill be wiring up a harness and my summit switch set at 4800.
thursday ill be grinding down the coil bosses and the coil packs as well as reloacting the PCV valve using a 90* bend. Making an IACV block plate and an EGR block plate
Friday i will be doing the install
the LIM is already drilled and my EGR is already bypassed and so are the coolant lines...
hopefully it will be a simple clean install
**excuse my post 14 hour shift grammar
My vacation got push forward a week so ill be starting a little tomorrow and doing the majority of it on thursday and friday.
tomorrow ill be wiring up a harness and my summit switch set at 4800.
thursday ill be grinding down the coil bosses and the coil packs as well as reloacting the PCV valve using a 90* bend. Making an IACV block plate and an EGR block plate
Friday i will be doing the install
the LIM is already drilled and my EGR is already bypassed and so are the coolant lines...
hopefully it will be a simple clean install
**excuse my post 14 hour shift grammar
Last edited by hornepirate; 08-11-2010 at 07:31 AM.
#98
#99
4th gen rear valve cover - same setup as you. Shaved the bosses pretty far down though, I think I had to add some material from a pinhole that started. Ran a hose under the UIM with a modified heater elbow (glued into two hacked pcv valve ends in stock location) with the valve up near the firewall and it works w/out incident
#101
Only two of them, the 'front' two on the rear cover closest to the driver side. Do what you need to, I just cut and test fit and thats all that was necessary for my application so I moved on.
#104
I went with 3/4 inch, but whatever. Bigger is better considering the stock a32 IACV is mounted on the UIM. If theres a cold start issue open up the throttle plate a touch (calibrate the TPS at the WOT setting so little adjustments will be fine) - that fitting should be big enough to allow sufficient bypass air at idle, though. Once you get stuff installed and you think that hose's size 'might' be a variable, just don't start maxing out the idle air control screw in either direction, its best to keep it somewhere in the middle and get the TB setting tweaked.
You don't need an IACV, so just get the TB somewhere in the ballpark range and the computer will help smooth out the idle/dashpot, then make small adjustments from there.
You don't need an IACV, so just get the TB somewhere in the ballpark range and the computer will help smooth out the idle/dashpot, then make small adjustments from there.
Last edited by bamboomerang; 08-11-2010 at 06:31 PM.
#106
alright well last night i didnt get anything done so today im going to be modifying all the small things im on m way to ace to pick a 1/2" brass nipple for the iacv and a couple misc bolts ill need as well as a couple aluminum plates to make a block of plate for the TB and EGR. Ill be grinding down the coil bosses and what not.
#107
So update for today. I got my block off plates made for the Throttle body and EGR. Made the 1/2 brass fitting for the UIM Drilled my LIM and got some M8 inserts plugged in for the M6x120 bolts so i can tape those inserts. And ground down the towers a bit on the uim so I can give myself an extra 10mm for the Bolts.
Im using the 5th gen IACV port box looking thing for my Coolant I dont wanna buy a hose for it so I made a block plate for it and ran the coolant into it. never saw the done before when it was completely separate from the Throttle body so figured id do it. I would leave it attached but i would run into clearance issues.
On tabs for tomorrow. ACE hardware run to pick a 90* brass fitting so I can re route the PCV valve. Im gonna plug the 90* fitting into the rear valve cover and put the PCV valve in the middle of the hose somewhere. Any feed back on this Idea???
Also, tomorrow i will finish cutting down the Coil bosses im cutting an inch and a half off of them and will go from there, Then do the test fitting for the UIM and cutting holes for the two outer bolts.
Hoping to finish it up tomorrow night ish and hope that itll fire right up and run good!
Im using the 5th gen IACV port box looking thing for my Coolant I dont wanna buy a hose for it so I made a block plate for it and ran the coolant into it. never saw the done before when it was completely separate from the Throttle body so figured id do it. I would leave it attached but i would run into clearance issues.
On tabs for tomorrow. ACE hardware run to pick a 90* brass fitting so I can re route the PCV valve. Im gonna plug the 90* fitting into the rear valve cover and put the PCV valve in the middle of the hose somewhere. Any feed back on this Idea???
Also, tomorrow i will finish cutting down the Coil bosses im cutting an inch and a half off of them and will go from there, Then do the test fitting for the UIM and cutting holes for the two outer bolts.
Hoping to finish it up tomorrow night ish and hope that itll fire right up and run good!
#109
I re routed the PCV valve today and made some better plates for the tb and IACV but the Rear valve cover is a pain. I exposed the top of it a bit. what the best way to seal it up?
#110
nvmd i jb welded some pennies the uim and it seals pretty good i just need to file down a couple of my block plates to make them sit properly then bolt on the UIM tomorrow hope to have it running by tomorrow night or sunday afternoon
#113
problem is i dont have a spare rear cover and dont wanna cut them down any more so im just gonna get the rear cover and do it the right way its too much of a headache to do it with the 4th cover.
#116
small update...after running into snag after snag and deciding to never use the 5th gen IACV again im coming along. I got my EGR tube cut and welded closed so that i no longer to worry about that being a clearance issue. 4th gen rear cover is completely cut down to specs...and i believe to have fixed my coil misfiring issues and O2 issues...
im going to wait at least a month before i go back to installing the 00vi due to it being about 105 here. will update as needed
in the mean time im gonna plan out a pcv bypass and a slight port/polish on the intake side (rough but no incredibly rough) do the VIAS fix before hand and paint the 00vi. all other pre install prep has been completed. including wiring up a vias harness to the summit rpm switch
im going to wait at least a month before i go back to installing the 00vi due to it being about 105 here. will update as needed
in the mean time im gonna plan out a pcv bypass and a slight port/polish on the intake side (rough but no incredibly rough) do the VIAS fix before hand and paint the 00vi. all other pre install prep has been completed. including wiring up a vias harness to the summit rpm switch
#117
Well Today I started to put the 00vi with a guy who i have been working with (professional nissan tech) and we got the car up and running tonight idles between 900-1050 in Park/nuetral and about 600-700 in drive and reverse
car runs great with very little issues so far only thing changed from the previous setups was the use of a IACV adapter and my own custom block plates for the car videos will be posted as well as pictures in the near future
on a side note last time in august i tried doing the install it was 105 ...now its about 33 degrees in south florida...absolutely freezing for me
car runs great with very little issues so far only thing changed from the previous setups was the use of a IACV adapter and my own custom block plates for the car videos will be posted as well as pictures in the near future
on a side note last time in august i tried doing the install it was 105 ...now its about 33 degrees in south florida...absolutely freezing for me
#119
FWIW - it helps to have the throttle plate exposed when adjusting that screw. I had to turn it way more than expected to get it to an eyeballed A32 TB 'cold position'
The goal is to use the TB to supplement the IACV with air at startup, so open the plate to get the necessary air, and then calibrate the TPS - think of this as your cold start calibration). Then once it starts all the time and is DDable, tweak your idle (ie bring it down) by unplugging your TPS, and turning your IACV 1/4 a turn, repeat until desired warm idle is set - this is your 'warm' calibration.
Hold the TB in your hand while doing this, it's 4 easy bolts.
The goal is to use the TB to supplement the IACV with air at startup, so open the plate to get the necessary air, and then calibrate the TPS - think of this as your cold start calibration). Then once it starts all the time and is DDable, tweak your idle (ie bring it down) by unplugging your TPS, and turning your IACV 1/4 a turn, repeat until desired warm idle is set - this is your 'warm' calibration.
Hold the TB in your hand while doing this, it's 4 easy bolts.
when you are adjusting the IACV and the tps is disconnected the car should be off or running?
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