putting only the 3.5 block in 4th gen.
#1
putting only the 3.5 block in 4th gen.
I know im due for a engine over haul in the next year and just wanna go ahead and start buying the parts and building a good motor. its going in a 95 maxima with 280k miles my 3.0 runs great and strong but hell its pushing 300k miles somethings gotta give sooner or later other than tires and brakes.
my plan was to keep it as basic as possible while adding a bit more low end torque for daily driving. so i came up with just using the 3.5 block and my upper engine the same. maybe get my heads ported and get the 3.5 cams installed.
tell me what you guys think would i add anymore over the 3.0 with using the 3.5 block? or should i do full swap it seems like a pin in the *** to swap the entire 3.5 in with all its high tek sensors.
i found a 08 maxima motor less then 10k miles for 2000 and 3000 for the entire thing every accessory.
my plan was to keep it as basic as possible while adding a bit more low end torque for daily driving. so i came up with just using the 3.5 block and my upper engine the same. maybe get my heads ported and get the 3.5 cams installed.
tell me what you guys think would i add anymore over the 3.0 with using the 3.5 block? or should i do full swap it seems like a pin in the *** to swap the entire 3.5 in with all its high tek sensors.
i found a 08 maxima motor less then 10k miles for 2000 and 3000 for the entire thing every accessory.
#5
easier? i thought it had electric throttle and all that. if i bought the entire motor would i be able to just drop it in and only do the mod to run a cable throttle? or what all needs to be done?
#8
Also, if you're planning on dropping $2k+ on a motor, I would highly recommend checking Car-Part.com before you go spending that much (especially when you don't need the vast majority of the electronics on the motor). I got my 13k mile motor for $500 with a cut main harness. All you need is for the motor to include the coils, injectors and injector clips with pigtails, and that is pretty much it. Everything else you need gets swapped over from you old motor (unless you want to get new sensors to replace your 280k+ mile sensors that haven't been replaced yet).
Don't just throw money away on the motor. Hell, for $2k (assuming you get a motor for ~$500-$750 with decent mileage) you could likely take the car and the motor with the necessary adapters and have a shop do the swap for you, and still likely come under the $3k you seem willing to pay for just the motor. If you get a good deal on a very low mile motor (like I did) you could do all the above and get a Pathfinder TB and adapter plate and not even have to rig up a cable mount... and STILL likely come under your motor budget.
Don't just throw money away on the motor. Hell, for $2k (assuming you get a motor for ~$500-$750 with decent mileage) you could likely take the car and the motor with the necessary adapters and have a shop do the swap for you, and still likely come under the $3k you seem willing to pay for just the motor. If you get a good deal on a very low mile motor (like I did) you could do all the above and get a Pathfinder TB and adapter plate and not even have to rig up a cable mount... and STILL likely come under your motor budget.
#9
Also, if you're planning on dropping $2k+ on a motor, I would highly recommend checking Car-Part.com before you go spending that much (especially when you don't need the vast majority of the electronics on the motor). I got my 13k mile motor for $500 with a cut main harness. All you need is for the motor to include the coils, injectors and injector clips with pigtails, and that is pretty much it. Everything else you need gets swapped over from you old motor (unless you want to get new sensors to replace your 280k+ mile sensors that haven't been replaced yet).
Don't just throw money away on the motor. Hell, for $2k (assuming you get a motor for ~$500-$750 with decent mileage) you could likely take the car and the motor with the necessary adapters and have a shop do the swap for you, and still likely come under the $3k you seem willing to pay for just the motor. If you get a good deal on a very low mile motor (like I did) you could do all the above and get a Pathfinder TB and adapter plate and not even have to rig up a cable mount... and STILL likely come under your motor budget.
Don't just throw money away on the motor. Hell, for $2k (assuming you get a motor for ~$500-$750 with decent mileage) you could likely take the car and the motor with the necessary adapters and have a shop do the swap for you, and still likely come under the $3k you seem willing to pay for just the motor. If you get a good deal on a very low mile motor (like I did) you could do all the above and get a Pathfinder TB and adapter plate and not even have to rig up a cable mount... and STILL likely come under your motor budget.
wow, thanks a lot of help thanks! thats damn cheap man ill check that site i though 2k was too much! ill check with them.
so how does the throttle work or do i use my intake manifold?
and yes i read till my eyes damn near bled lol.
#10
not sure exactly on the years (too lazy to look it up) but I believe it's the '01-'02 Pathfinder used a 70mm TB that was cable driven versus the 70mm TB on the '02+ VQ35 that is drive-by-wire. All you need to do is add some form of TB adapter plate(s) (StephanMax makes them and I will be too here in a few weeks) to be able to bolt it up to the intake manifold. The only modification you have to make to the intake manifold is to mount a bracket for the throttle cables. I made the one we used on my roommate's car using some square aluminum stock from Home Depot and cut the end with the cable into an "L" with a notch for the throttle cable.
#14
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