looks real good man, your making good progress. how are you lifting the engine? on one side i see the engine cradle bolted to the motor mount and on the other side, is it just bolted to the cylinder heads? im am about to pull the vq from my max this weekend, so just trying to get everything figured out before I jump into it.

 

yeah the way I had it bolted held everything nicely but it was a pain in the a$$ to get it in the mounts with being able to tilt the engine right to left rather than front to back If you notice I don't have the water pipes on yet...I am waiting on gaskets, I hook to one stud on each head of the water outlets. I have pulled engines a buch of different ways and this was the first time I used a leveler....I guess I was trying to be fancy. I usually just loop a chain around the exhaust manifolds and then hook the engine hoist in the middle of the chain and pull it that way. Also another way I have done it several times on a vq30 though I don't know if it is recomended but it worked for me. I looped a chain under the upper intake manifold while it is fully bolted down then I hooked the hoist to that and lifted it out. Once everything is unhooked getting the engine out is really not hard assuming you have some decent tools.

 

I did a little work with the hand grinder tonight. I clearenced the rear engine mount and part of the cradle to get the rear header to fit with out hitting anything.

Now I need to know what size the O2 sensor ports are. I need to plug one of the O2 sensor ports. Anyone know the size or where I can pick one up?

Another thing to mention is that if you have the option when doing a header install take the transmission out. If you are working by yourself its so much easier to stand in the engine bay while trying to get everything put together.

*edit*
Would this work? 18mm x 1.5 It says it will fit standard bosch sensor

http://www.amazon.com/O2-Sensor-Plug.../dp/B002U9A5AO

 

^ Yes, I'm using a Lowes's M18 x 1.5 and red loctite on the extra o2 ports on my headers.

woops, I guess I've come out of the shadows now, no more ninja lurking.

 

Good deal. I actually picked up an oil plug at Advanced Auto yesterday, I have not had a chance to try it but it is 18x1.5 and it was $2 something. I'll post the part number when I make sure it works.

 

I got a little more done tonight. I got the rear header bolted up and got the 3.0 water pipes mounted to the 3.5 engine. I also realized that my front valve cover is cracked so I need to order another one of those

Here is a pictures of what I used to plug one of the extra O2 sensor holes...only to realize that I need to plug another hole too so i still need to get another one.



Here are a few pics I took once I had the headers bolted up.

 

Doh! I Shoulda mentioned you needed two!! Good thing you're blocking that rear one, I assume you found out that you can't put the rear o2 up there cause of the steering rack.

I have bolts on the one on the rear collector and the one by the oil pan (not pictured).

 

Looks like progress is occurring, good. My car got hit by another motorist a few days ago, with only about 100 miles on the swap and I am presently hoping they do not total it.

 

Yeah I should have looked a little better. I was going to plug the one by the oil pan and leave the one in the "U" open to actually use since it is so easy to get too. Is there any reason you went with the one close to the oil pan?

Also, now that I have a plug in the top O2 sensor hole (one closest to the rear head) that cover will not fit that covers some steering parts. What did you do about this? I am wondering if I should cut the cover to make it fit or just leave it off.


WOW! That sucks! I assume if they do total it you will buy it back from the insurance company?

 

My O2 sensor locations are...



and



I had to extend the rear o2 sensor wires to reach the middle of the U, and I used a little heat wrap to protect the wiring from the heat.

That shield is in my garage somewhere, I left it off of my car.

 

What fittings are you guys using for your fuel lines? Are you just using off the shelf brass fittings from a hardware store (Lowes)? Also does anyone have a good diagram of how the fuel lines should be set up? I am used to my set up that was on my boosted vq30. I already have an AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator installed in the car.

 

I used the 6 an fittings from summit racing.

 

Do you have pictures of your fuel set up? did you run with a return or returnless?

 

Does anyone have a picture of what the alternator mounts to on the top bolt hole? I don't remember and I don't see anything laying around that looks like it fits. I don't know if it was something that changed with my supercharged set up...I don't remember. I have the big bolt in but I need to know what the top threaded hole goes to. Thanks!

 

Hey buddy, hopefully these two pictures help you out. You asked me for a pic the night I had the motor in, I wish you asked a couple days previous so I could get you some better pics. How is she coming along?

 

Thanks man!! I ended up finding it in my box of stuff that was taken off years ago to put the supercharger on. I'll post some pictures tonight...things are moving along.

 

The car is on hold right now at my parents house in Baltimore because of the accident so I can't get you pics. Not even sure if the car is totalled for a few more days. The only pictures I have of the fuel setup are of the FPR which won't tell you much, its mounted to the firewall. The shop installed the fuel pressure regulator into the input line to the 3.5 fuel rail and then set the FPR to ~50ish psi IIRC, the FPR feeds the return line.

So the motor sees a returnless setup and the fuel system sees a return setup. The shop said that this was the easiest way but not necessarily the best way, they used a FAQ I printed from the All Motor forum here.

I am about ~80% sure they won't total the car but the damages were estimated to be a bit shy of $4k.

 

Sorry about around here if the damages are 75% or more than the value of the car than it's totaled but you can always take the check and buy the car back for next to nothing and fix it. The only thing is it will have a salvage title.

If you have any questions shoot me a pm or link to your thread so we don't hack this one

 

two questions:

Where are you guys hooking up your IACV's? I don't have an extra spot to hook it up to pull manifold vacuum.

Where should the coolant line goes that runs from the top of the coolant log? On my fouth gen this was the line that was run for a coolant bypass. It went from the coolant log to the back rear head closest to the fire wall...but I don't see a spot to hook this up on the 3.5...any help?

 

I drill out the uim and put a extra 3/8 barbed fitting in it for the iacv and I reused the 4gen coolant log

 

How do you attach the fitting to the UIM?

I reused the 4th gen coolant log. I hooked up the two heater hoses, but there is a smaller hose that comes off of the top of one of the heater hose hook ups. In the factory set up this line runs from othe coolant log, to the throttle body>>though the UIM then into the rear head. I bypassed the throttle body and UIM so I was just running it from the coolant log to the rear head...but on the 3.5 head there is not a place that I see to hook this hose. So I am wondering where people route this line when doing a 3.5 swap.

 

Here is a picture I found from 96sleeper


Is the "old set up" how most people are setting up their fuel? Also looking at the 3.5 fuel rail there is a dampener on each side...I assume those stay?

 

There is a feed and return on the 4gen coolant log and I just looped them together. I am pic pic's if needed

I just drilled hole in the back on the uim between the port for the pvc and brake booster. Use the thickest part and thread it then use alittle rtv on the thread and screw in a barbed fitting. Don't not tee off the brake booster or iacv or your brakes will feel funny and the car will idle funny when cold.

 

I will take a look for that on the coolant log tonight.

I did not want to "T" the brake booster, so I will go to look for a 3/8's fitting tonight. thanks for the help so far.

 

btw, I used the old setup for fuel but when you boost the car I would suggest changing it

 

Yeah I did the old setup as well. The shop said the same thing as Tom, you would want to try the new setup if you are running a boosted setup. The shop also said that it was still possible to raise fuel pressure with the FPR even if its on the return line, is that true?

 

okay that is how I am going to run it for now. Yes you can still raise the fuel pressure, even the stock regulator is set up coming off the rail, so even that is made to work on the "return" side.

 

I have been making a little progress here and there over the last week. I hope to be able to try to start the car this weekend. I want to know what do you guys recomend doing to prime the engine with oil before I try to fire it up? I was going to crank it with the starter with the fuel pump fuse pulled. Is there a better way? I put engine assembly lube on the stuff I was supposed to, I just want to try to build up a little pressure in the chain tensioners before I let it rip.

 

Yes, that is exactly what I did. Pulled the fuel pump fuse. I cranked the car three times at 15 sec each.

 

Do you have a oil pressure gauge installed or did you just assume you build pressure? If you had a gauge when did you notice significant pressure being built?

 

No, I do not have a oil pressure gauge, I just assumed I had good pressure when oil light on dash went off. I should probably invest in one though, would be good cheap insurance. I would assume you would see pressure being built fairly soon, I will let someone else chime in with more knowledge though... Glad to hear your going to start her this weekend!

 

Cant wait to see it done

 

When do you think you will get it fired up? Looks like you should be close to done!

 

Should the fuel pressure be set to 51psi at warm idle? If that is not the case then what point do you set the base fuel pressure?

 

Yea you should be good at 51psi

 

This was on Sunday

 

Haha it moved out a bit... I bet you got a lot done in this weather.

Is your car honda electron blue pearl?

 

4gen ecu = 4gen stock fuel psi

remember you are running bigger injectors and 51psi this will cause you to run rich than you'll have to tune it out

 

Awesome. Looks like it is almost done.

 

It's viper blue. The color the 96 viper GTS was painted.

Really??? I though everyone that did the hybrid swap ran at 51psi. I am currently on stock 3.5 injectors.

I don't know if you guys noticed but that is not just a picture, it's a link to the video. Watch it