exsjulio

iTrader: (4)

Recently, I have been running maintenance on my motor to the highest standards. Filling up with the best oils, lubricants, filters, fuel... etc

As of a month ago, I have felt my mods slacking in power. I have an N/A setup and want to get the most from my motor.

Mods:

Stillen SRI
Headers, Y pipe
Apexi Cat back exhuast
00vi w/ Apexi VAFC II
5spd swap
Short shifter

I wanted to see what other people have done to make the most power. Im ready to DIY anything. I have the VQ30DE.. Im open to all mod ideas (if it works) motor swaps,ecu's ...what else is there??

I know boost is the quickest way... but I wanna be able to have the motor response have the best pick up possible. I still havent installed a lightweight flywheel, picked up lightweight wheels... so i should still have some options to getting results.

THANKS IN ADVANCE

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

70 mm Pathfinder Throttle body if you can find one or convert a VQ35 drive by wire throttle body to work on the VQ30DE.

I have the Pathy TB port matched to the 2000 VI and it has more throttle response than a couple of other 2000 VI setups in the area with 4th gen or 5.0 gen TBs. Krismax did this swap years ago and I bought it off of him with great results since I put it on my car.

Lightweight flywheel was nice when I had it but the insert wore out and I could not replace it with another as there was no replacement for it.

Tuning helps out alot, get a EU or something to advance the timing. My SMT-6 is broken and from 5000 to redline its not the same without the huge bump in timing advance.

Converting to a MAP sensor with the EU and ditching the MAF sensor for a very short intake might help out as well. Also the obvious ITBs would be the ultimate in throttle response.

If you really want to spend money you can build the motor up to be very responsive as well. There are some gains to be had in head work on a VQ30 without any major porting, just lightly port match/polish and clean up the bowl area. VK45 Ti valves fit into VQ30 heads and have more back cutting on the stems than VQ30 valves. Pair those up with HR valvesprings/shims and better cams it should make for something interesting. IIRC years ago Tilley put the Ti valves into a VQ35 and said it reved like no other VQ he had ever seen. I have a pair of VK45 heads with the Ti valves sitting around waiting for the day I stop being lazy/cheap and build up my spare VQ30DEK engine. I am more interested in paying off all my debt nowadays than I am with modding.

exsjulio

iTrader: (4)

70mm Pathfinder TB is bolt on to the VQ30DE?

I do notice that my motor has a hard time from low end engine speed RPMs. It feels like I have to blip the gas and THEN step on it to get the response i need from the motor. The VI completely eliminates the lag on the top end, which feels perfect. I know that if I was able to rip through all RPMs, it would jump forward and use the MAX hp as frequent as possible.

I have a lightweight UP, and it picked up some of the slack for the low end revs... but not enough to feel content. I think a lighter flywheel will help that to, but it feels like the TB would help now that you mention it.

do i just need a Pathfinder TB? or is there more??

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

More or less. You need either an adapter plate or to drill new holes in the TB. You should also port the TB opening in the intake manifold to match the Pathfinder TB.

The SRI is hurting your low end. Install the stock midpipe and it will feel better at low rpms. I recently did this and do not see myself going back to an aftermarket midpipe anytime soon.

exsjulio

iTrader: (4)

I have a better flowing midpipe located in the same location as the stock oem midpipe (for the intake). I m thinking about relocating the battery to the rear to free up air flow space. I m sure that would improve air flow and response. The SRI was worse when it had the OEM pieces attached.

other IDEAS?!

Kico

[quote=exsjulio;7739926]
I do notice that my motor has a hard time from low end engine speed RPMs. It feels like I have to blip the gas and THEN step on it to get the response i need from the motor. The VI completely eliminates the lag on the top end, which feels perfect. I know that if I was able to rip through all RPMs, it would jump forward and use the MAX hp as frequent as possible.

I have a similar set up like yours and my question for you is. Do you have a wide band ? And whats your AFR at WOT at your low end R's. My car seemed like it was lagging until I leaned out the AFR on my APEXI AFC NEO and It mad a hole world of a difference.

exsjulio

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I do have a wideband, WOT is about 12.6 to 12... should lean it further? to how much?

speedymax99

iTrader: (60)

VK titanium valves are a drop-in mod for the VQ30 heads, even though the stem length is different? If so, then the stock valve springs should be fine for higher rpms since the valves would be lighter.
With some JWT cams, it should make sweet powers!

Kico

I would leave your AFR where it's at.I was confused when you said you had a ooVI and you were lagging in your low R's It was suppose to add low end power as well as high end power. I know it did on my car. Do you still have the butter fly's in the upper intake manifold right ? and do you have everything from a 5th gen or just the UIM and the TB?

When I did my swap I used everything from a 5th gen LIM ,UIM,TB, injectors,fuel rail egr blocked off with 4th gen IACV and AFC NEO opens the VI at 4700 and like I said my car lagged in low R's until I tuned it with the but Dino and the wide band.

VK45 TI valves sounds like a good mod for my spare 3.0 I'm going to be looking forward to this in the future after I pic up my findiza fly wheel this weekend.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Yes, you want it in the 12.8-13.1 range at wot

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

The stem lengths are different by a mm or so. Most Ti alloys expand less when they heat up compared to most steels, so that may account for the slight differences in length.

The Ti valves are the shorter ones, but the valve faces/angles are identical so they will seat in VQ30 heads. So they should fit and the VQ30 buckets are easy to re-shim for proper height. As always I won't say for certain until I try it myself and take pics. IIRC Tilley had to grind the Ti valve stems for VQ35 heads and got the bucket height close but said the valvetrain was noisy even though it reved alot faster.

The VK45 heads look like they copied VQ30 cylinder heads with an extra 4th cylinder. However they have these huge intake/exhaust manifold ports compared to the VQ30 heads. If I had these heads I would of had them flow benched along with the VQ30, VQ35 Pathy, and VQ35 Maxima heads. I can see why they used this VK45 engine design in IRL albeit modified heavily for racing.

tedo007

iTrader: (6)

Remove some weight!

'00DEkVVTi

[QUOTE=exsjulio;7739584]Recently, I have been running maintenance on my motor to the highest standards. Filling up with the best oils, lubricants, filters, fuel... etc

As of a month ago, I have felt my mods slacking in power. I have an N/A setup and want to get the most from my motor.

Mods:

Stillen SRI
Headers, Y pipe
Apexi Cat back exhuast
00vi w/ Apexi VAFC II
5spd swap
Short shifter

I wanted to see what other people have done to make the most power. Im ready to DIY anything. I have the VQ30DE.. Im open to all mod ideas (if it works) motor swaps,ecu's ...what else is there??

I know boost is the quickest way... but I wanna be able to have the motor response have the best pick up possible. I still havent installed a lightweight flywheel, picked up lightweight wheels... so i should still have some options to getting results.

I have '00 maxima w VQ30DE"k". Car was wrecked damaged LF qtr. Pan