2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Ok 2000 A/T, I'm pretty sure trans is gone. At WOT it doesn't shift gears at all if I let go the pedal at about half throttle it will slam into gear. I've searched and read about TCM issues being related to slips but these slips I'm having are so severe that I can sit at 4000 rpm and 60 mph just stuck in that position for over 30 seconds! When I first turn on the car it will climb rpms very slowly and seems like it doesn't want to even switch into 2nd. After it warms up it'll switch into second fine. If I drive nice and slow it will switch into second and third ok even though I can still feel the shifts. But say I try to pass up a car it gets stuck in that gear and won't switch. Its gotten bad to the point where its hard to pick up speed after second gear. SO my question is it sounds to me at least for sure my torque converter and trans as a whole is gone, what do you guys think? Second whats the best way to proceed form here, I've found used autos for $350 at local junkyard would it be best to just swap one in? Third, how hard is it to swap in another one? I know its time consuming but is there any "tricks" or is it pretty much take off old and put in new?

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

Have you done any diagnosis at all? Codes?
Have you checked your fluid level/condition? Have you checked your TPS to make sure it's within spec?

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Yes, no codes. Yes did a drain/fill with new fluid still same thing. Yes, position sensor is reading ok as is within spec.

DCZC

Since it sounds like its close to toast, I'd consider giving this a try
http://www.seafoamsales.com/trans-tune.html

May not fix it but seafoam is pretty good stuff on the engine side, I personally never used the trans stuff, but theoretically if its selenoid related maybe this would loosen the gunk. Read the instructions on the tab, it calls for adding half the bottle, driving for awhile, and doing a drain/fill and adding the rest to the new clean fluid. Probably nomiracle but maybe it will improve the condition and buy you sometime to source another trans.

Here's a short review from our board, GL



http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-its-use.html

DC

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Ok thanks anyone else?

essential1

iTrader: (5)

I'm willing to bet the tranny. My 4th gen did something similar when my auto was on its way out. So it just sounds like you need to throw another one in.

As far as the difficulty of swaping it out, the hardest part is dealing with the weight of the auto. If you have a jack for the transmission, it makes everything so much easier.

If I was in your situation, i'd just do a 5 speed swap because I went through 3 autos on my old 4th gen and killed the auto on my i30. (hence why i'm 5 speed now) But thats off topic.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Yup, you need a replacement. (I've blown several) Try looking for a "locking" automatic for 2000-2001 Infinity or 2001 20th-anniversery Maxima. They're around - car-part.com is your friend. You will also need the driver's side axle. Chances are that your torque converter is fine - but yards usually include the TC with the tranny. Infinity transmissions (they're identical to Maxima) are often lower miles.

Model# is RE4F04W - not the "B" model which is open-diff. That's on the firewall VIN plate.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

not to jump off topic too much, but are the 5th gen auto's the same as 4th gens? I've been looking for a backup auto (incase the 3.5 with 10psi kills the current auto with about 50k on it). Also, is the tranny for the 5th gens any stronger out of the box than a 4th gen?

essential1

iTrader: (5)

From my understanding, it's the same. Similar to how the 4th and 5th gen 5 speed manual tansmissions are essentially the same.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick reply, i thought so too, but just wanted to make sure. I found a 13k mile vlsd out of an AE edition for dirt cheap close enough to pick up.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Lucky..... The transmission shifter cable is slightly different between 4th and 5th gen cars which takes some tweaking to make it work, and you must move the shifter switch from the 4th to 5th gen trannys, and the wiring cable on the 5th gen is much too short for the 4th gen so you gotta cut and splice that. Solenoid wiring is the same from the transmission, although both 5th gens I have used gave a "Solenoid A" code - dunno why.

Everything mechanical bolts up, the TCs are interchangeable, and if you get the VLSD model you will LOVE it. Remember the driver's side axle - the old one won't fit. Check the VIN plate on the firewall to verify the model - and the driver's side axle opening is much larger the the non-vlsd model. If you look through the axle holes once the tranny is out, you should see straight through - the non-vlsd tanny has a cross-shaft that you can see.

Got any more of those VLSDs around?

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

So your saying to get a locking trans instead of the non-locking one that's currently on the car? What would be the advantage to this? And I would have to change the axle for it to work? When I search for tran it asks lsd or non-lsd I'm confused?

These are two I found at a local auction

http://www.areliableautoparts.com/search.asp

Btw trans started acting pretty good now, as long as I don't floor it its good even though it has some rough shifts. I'm beginning to think its the revolution speed sensor since when I floor it my car stops at a certain rpm and speed and doesn't do anything. I tried this in different gears to see what happens, the results are if I floor it in 1st it stops at 30mph and 2000rpms, in second it stops at 40mph and 4000rpm, and in third it stops at 60mph and 5000rpm. When I say stops I'm describing when I thought it slipped, it just sits there at those mphs and rpms and just does nothing I don't even feel the trans trying to switch gears at all it just sits there. What you guys think should I try the sensor before I jump and switch the whole trans?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

If you don't know why a VLSD transmission is better than the open differential, then don't bother. (The VLSD transmission is build for a different driver's side axle than the open differential. You have no choice).

Just ignore my earlier post.


.

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Miscommunication, I asked about difference between locking and non-locking I understand what the LSD is but I'm assuming my car doesn't have LSD so in order to put in an LSD trans I would need the axle I get that but you said locking and there's non-locking, is locking LSD and non-locking nonLSD?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Locking = VLSD or LSD non-locking = nonVLSD or nonLSD. VLSD = Viscious Limited Slip Differential. The nissan "locker" uses a thick semi-liquid in the differential. In other words, it has a gooey center.

If you want to know what transmission your car came with, look at the VIN plate in the firewall under the hood. The sixth line down tells you the model number of the transmission. The 2000-2001 cars use either a RE4F04B (non-locking) or RE4F04W, which is a locker, LSD, or VLSD. When you buy a transmission, if the car is still in the yard, get that number from the plate under the hood.

Hope this helps - I've spent a lot of time and driven a lot of miles picking up transmissions. (I break things) "if you ain't breakin' sumthin, you ain't racin' "

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

So not quite as simple as dropping it in
there's about 5-6 95-99 lsd auto trannies within 200 miles of here for less than $400 all with less than 40k on them. Found an AE tranny with 13k on it for $350 in the Wilson area...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Right - not so simple, but any 95-99 40K transmission should be fine for your car, just that the lsd would still require the axle. That is called the 4AT series and it was installed through the 2004 Maximas - I have one of those that my wife drives.

gam1866

My 2000 Max won't go into gear. Forward or reverse. Makes a stripped gear kinda noise while sitting at idle. It doesn't matter if I try to put in gear or not. Not real loud,,just kinda a "zzzzzzzzzz" sound. Dropped the pan and there is not a lot of metal, fluid kinda brown but doesn't smell burnt. Any ideas, can the pump be replaced or is pressure generated by torque converter? If anyone has a breakdown diagram of trans, can you send to me? Thx!

stoopidcooked

i see a 5 speed swap in your future!

maxed_out_99

YOU... need a trans. i replaced mine not too long ago its not that bad.


to the op, out of pure curiousity how many miles do you have on that trans? and i would stay away from any trans additive or you might not go anywhere. most of the time if you have a trans issue the fluid becomes the glue thus being the only thing holding it together. trans additive = the bus

gam1866

You guys are not very encouraging. I have 197k on car. Never used trans additives. Pretty sure it is torque converter. Anyone dump fluid, pull trans, replace torque converter only and try?

maxed_out_99

honestly dude, if your gonna pull the trans just replace it its not worth the hassle to find out later on you have to pull it out again. i pulled mine and replaced it and the tc at 180k


i almost forgot, check the cables on your tb. if there loose they may cause that erratic behavior. and its a good place to start before you shell out the dough and time for a new trans

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

It's very easy to replace the pump. Drop trans, remove all the case bolts, separate case and it's right there, just a few more bolts. with one steel gasket between it & the trans body that you might want to get.

I've got a pump that you can have if you cover the shipping. Might want to do some diag & make sure it has no pressure first though. e-mail in sig is the best way to get a hold of me.

Got my mom's I35 trans ripped apart the other night, here's the cause of the 1-2 slip slip slip bang on heavy throttle, towards the end it was less bang and more mush, and less throttle needed to do it as well, you really had to drive it like a granny & it would still shift a little funky, eventually it also started dropping out of 4th, it also made a horrid screech sound towards the end & was grinding like a wheel bearing at all speeds, unless the car needs a wheel bearing but I don't think it does, pretty sure it was in the trans. You can see 2 normal clutch's from a different hub in the back:





I'm putting in a VLSD from an I30t, NOT an easy job to put a 5th gen trans in a 5.5 gen. I had to rip the entire trans apart & then hack the case all up in order to install the 'powertrain revolution sensor' found on 5.5 gens but not 5th gens.







I drilled the whole a tad angled, hopefully it's good enough to shift, allthough it would be nice if it didn't throw any codes or blow up in a few months either

Let me tell you something though, this is the first auto trans I've ever built, it's ****ing easy as pie! Hopefully there is no ****ups, but as of right now I really feel that I'd rather redo an auto than a manual any day, I love the smell of atf as well.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Sorry but that's such a crock of **** & people keep perpetuating that myth. If your trans has issues you should change the fluid. The tranny with those fried clutchpacks I just put up was 100% UNDRIVEABLE 1.5 years ago, changed the fluid & got another year & a half & 65k out of it, and it wasn't the first trans I've 'fixed' by changing the fluid & filter out.

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Fluid is critical doing a drain/fill every 20k-30k miles will keep your trans running great IMO.

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

BTW my problem ended up being the maf sensor giving wrong signals to the ecu thus causing the trans to shift hard and sometimes not shift at all. After a new maf and drain/fill trans was running EXCELLENT! Like brand new!

maxed_out_99

i have had many different experiences with this so called "fix" every high millage tranny i have flushed including mine ended up being replaced. but the customer really wanted it done everytime. and the customer is always right

maxed_out_99

what if it has NEVER been serviced?

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

I've dealt with high mileage cars around 200k that I've done a drain/fill and it saved the trans and ran way better. Maybe the method of flushing is what kills the trans not the exchange of fluid itself?

maxed_out_99

that could very well be the truth i just was always told it was a big no-no and after the experiences ive had i have steered away from this procedure im also afraid to touch the fuid in my junkyard trans for this specific reason

to the op, im really glad you found your problem was simple and alot cheaper than a new trans

2000_MAXIMA_KING

iTrader: (30)

Yup just a regular drain/fill doesn't hurt it but only helps.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Agreed, it's always helped me.

Maybe in your case some contaminants dislodged & plugged something up in the valve body or a solenoid, which still doesn't technically qualify it as blowing the transmission as you could have done a few line pressure tests & dropped the VB, assuming the problem didn't cause clutches to get smoked from improper pressures- which is entirely possible.

Anyways I have awesome news! The I35 transmission shifts like a dream! Asides from the typical slushiness, but I'll be ordering up a trans-go at some point to take care of that. The VLSD was a lifesaver already as I didn't shovel the driveway to my garage, studded 15" hekkapalita's & vlsd kicks ***!

maxed_out_99

let me run this by you; after i flushed my trans it was peeing on the pavement i dropped the pan and both of the magnets looked like "furry animals" and i had low pressure in 1st but not reverse every other trans just didnt move at all

gam1866

Here is a update to my trans probs. I found a good used trans and pulled the bad one. When side by side to move over some components I notice the teeth on the outer input shaft were stripped. The inside of torque converter appear to be ok. Anyway,,obviously the grinding noise I was hearing and why the car would not move when put in gear. Installed used trans and I'm back in business! My son rolled from reverse into drive and gave some gas before tranny engaged. Strip and grind! Cost me $350 and a day and half.

Anyone have a donor input shaft they can spare or sell cheap?

Circuit00C

sorry to threadjack but
I'm trying to get more info on transmissions. can you guys help me pick out a good auto for road racing.. preferably something lsd. I just blew a re4f05b so
It will be going in a sentra along with a vq swap... this is going to be a first
I would make my own thread but I can't...btw I think that is a stupid rule...15 posts seems a bit much

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Check here - give Ty a call:

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

Circuit00C

thanks and ive been talking to level ten about just building my trans and staying with the qr but the vq has alot more potential... and no one in the sentra comunity knows anything about auto transmissions ... its 6spd or nothing for them...I like to be different

Circuit00C

got my re4f04b built but still an open diff.... know how to change that? Any companies make an lsd? helical? I was thinking of contacting quaife but that sounds expensive

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

The RE4F04W is the VLSD version of the "B" 4AT. The viscous-slip diff is not interchangeable into the "B", I believe - never tried it. Most everything else is the same - at least in the 2000-2001 Maximas and Infinitis and 2002 Altima V6 that I know about.. No Sentra AT experience, personally, but I've burned through several versions of the VLSD 4AT in the V6s. Bellhousings are probably different, too...