Thats true, but I do wanna say, the 1st 3.5 we did, eventually started overfilling the coolant tank, ended up having a leaky headgasket without prior signs. So its always best to start fresh since u got the motor out, aint too hard at all. Also, the HR coolant passages will greatly benefit you in both NA and Boosted application.. Just telling u so u can think about it, you dont wanna regret stuff later on.

To change head gasket is simple, take out cams, loosen all the bolts in a few steps like the FSM says. take off head, put new gasket, dip the new HR bolts in oil or coat them very good, then put them in, torque to the spec FSM says, I too used one of them discount clicking TQ wrench, then loosen them all, and retorque to spec, after that you use an angle torque method, you tighten to the angle FSM says. FSM is basically the bible for our car, EVERYTHING is in there, oh and youll also be using the 350z FSM for the specs on headbolts. PM me if you need any help if your going this route.

 

Here is what I plan to order, hopefully this rounds out what I need:

1 x [21010] WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [13270+A] GASKET-ROCKER COVER - Maxima (A33B) 2002-2003 3.5L1 x [13270] GASKET-ROCKER COVER - Maxima (A33B) 2002-2003 3.5L1 x [13050P] GASKET-WATER INLET - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [21200] THERMOSTAT ASSY - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [13042] SEAL-OIL,CRANKSHAFT FRONT - Maxima (A33B) 2000-20031 x [12296M] RETAINER ASSY-OIL SEAL,REAR - Maxima (A33B) 2000-2001 3.0L, 2002-2003 3.5L NOK SELECT USE & NDK SELECT USE1 x [11121+A] GASKET-OIL PAN - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [11121] GASKET-OIL PAN - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19992 x [11012G] SEAL-O RING - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [21010J] SEAL-O RING - Maxima (A32B) 1995-19991 x [21010JA] SEAL-O RING - Maxima (A32B) 1995-1999

And the ebay timing kit. Hopefully that is enough stuff to get the timing system and oil pans swapped.

I am assuming that the thermostat between the vq30 and vq35 is different. Any other parts required? I was planning on doing the rear main seal at the same time as I will be doing the clutch and flywheel. If I have a 95 (built in 94) maxima engine and MT transmission, is there any special care to the type of flywheel I use? I heard that the 95 flywheels are different from other 95-99 years, but if I am changing the engine would it make a difference? Was planning on an exedy stage 2 clutch.

 

All those OEM seals and then an ebay timing kit? Eh, I wouldn't recommend that ebay timing kit. If your already that far into tearing the motor down, why not do it right and order the OEM tensioners, guides, slacks?
I would also highly suggest replacing the head gaskets while your in there, and opening up the water gaskets. Honestly, If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when are you going to have time? Not trying to knock on you, Im just saying, the last thing you want once you get the motor in is to find out you have a leaking head gasket. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck man, keep up the good work!

 

Ordering the oem timing stuff would cost me $400.

 

honesty I think your spending more money then you need + at some point you have to put a limit on how much you plan to spend. Earlier in the thread you stated your only looking to make 220hp a bone stock 3.5 with supporting mods will make that no problem and you won't pop a headgasket less something crazy happens. Remember alot of people doing these mods are boosted, going to boost or reving past 72k, racing or have never changed their own sparks plugs.

There is no timing cover or oil pan gasket just get the nissan rtv also the gaskets are rubber and reuseable it's not like the old cork or paper gaskets that tear and rip. Remember you have to remove the uim just to can the plugs and your not going to replace it everytime you work on the car. I would get new o-rings, main seals and polit bearing at the most since I am pretty sure the motor came out of a auto.

If your really going to boost the car and run 10+ psi then it doesn't matter what HG and bolts you use cause your going to bend a rod anyway. Personally I would be more worried about if you got a oil burner and not the HG. BTW, the main tensior has less than 35k and is the new revised version right from dave b along with the chain. Check with nissan they do not even suggest replacing them till like 100-200k miles

just my 2cent

 

Okay thanks. Thats kind of why I didn't want to replace the HG. At a certain point I don't want to spend more money insuring the motor won't blow then the cost of the motor to begin with. Should I use the water pump or buy a new one? Can I use the 3.5 thermostat?

 

Yeah you can use a 3.5 tstat, I got a 350z one on mine

 

Cool. Gonna also need to figure out the deal with my crank position sensor, the one on the 3.5 is chewed up because it was sitting on that in the warehouse, will the 3.0's fit?

Gonna just order the basic gaskets for oil pan and valve cover and orings for the timing covers for now. Also, need to determine my flywheel and clutch setup. I will probably do the Fidanza flywheel 95-2001 and the Exedy Stage 2 clutch 95-2001.

I will do more work on the car when I get the parts, probably next week.

 

your going to reuse all the 3.0 sensors since your using the 3.0 upper pan

 

Awesome, makes things even easier! There is a sensor on the drivers side coolant system that isn't on the 3.5 right? I read that on tavarish's guide.

 

you'll need to reuse the coolant log and sensors from the 3.0 also

 

Started off cleaning the vq30 upper oil pan today. I put it in the parts washer at the shop, then took it home and I've been scrubbing it with brake and parts cleaner, scotch brite pad (hopefully this isn't taking off too much aluminum), small razor blade, and a plastic finger nail brush. It's a real chore to get the gasket off. I am trying not to mess up the mating surfaces but its tough.

 

FYI, I would just buy a case of brake cleaner

 

haha yeah I went out and bought 2 cans more and a gasket scraper.

Gonna put these in the parts washer when I'm done to get rid of any remaining fragments.

 

Okay, brand new looking on the inside. I used 2 cans of brake and parts and the gasket scraper, then put it in the parts washer again. All machined surfaces look pretty decent, and the gaskets all out of the grooves. Got my IACV adapter and stephen max cam spacers today. Still waiting on new gaskets and NWP blockoff plate, then I will be really busy!

 

Damn wish I had a parts washer.

 

Having roommates that are engineers is pretty convenient some times.

 

Hey, do the engines come with vins on them or just the serial? I read somewhere that engines only have serials but I also read that they should have vins. I have been looking around but only found a serial for this motor.

 

Another question: if I plan to pass emissions with this setup, would I be able to do it with an e-manage ultimate, vq30 precats and cat? I have the 95 ecu (because its an early 95 car). I read it is possible to use the VQ30's EGR setup. I plan to run an IACV. Any tips? Good thing is I live in St Marys where emissions is not needed, however I can potentially be moved for my job in the next year to an area where things are stricter. I have been reading and the 1995 is apparently the best 4th gen car for this situation because it has the simplest emissions arrangement, however it needs to be sniffed rather than ecu read. I plan to use my 95 headers. Would I just need to fab up a support bracket for the EGR assembly, then put a barb somewhere on the intake manifold and run a tube to it?

Edit: found this http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/3...h-gen-how.html. So it really is as simple as just capping off the metal pipe from the header and then plugging the sensor in? If I do the sniffer test, this wouldn't work would it because the NOx would still be too high even if I don't have the CEL.

 

I pass every year with no egr or cats, I did retain the egr probe thou

 

Gotcha. Thats pretty impressive. In MD for pre 96 cars, they got rid of the dyno roller test, its just a sniffer at idle and with neutral revving, so that might be a good thing coupled with a really emissions proof tune map.
Various gaskets and orings should come by Friday, I will have the timing covers off by Sunday and pictures of course. The only things I still need to order are the clutch, flywheel, emanage ultimate

 

Goodluck we didnt pass emissions with our swap but we didnt have an EU either.

 

What did you have to do? Did you have the cats? Does anything need to be changed besides the intake manifold if I was to hook up the 4th gen EGR? I haven't actually looked at the 4th gen EGR, just looked at diagrams. Would I need to change anything with the cylinder head...

 

Well we kept getting extensions until we couldnt any more lol. There is a thread where someone did a codeless swap and he tapped the neck of the IM for the EGR tube. He has pics and all. I'll try to find it.

 

Yeah I found the same thread. His PM box is full and the dude no longer comes here. If I did the same thing, would it work? I am willing to pay the money/go the extra mile for this. The user is mtrai760. I figure the worst case is if I get problems I just buy a new catalytic converter and o2 sensors and pay for someone to install. . . Bam, $450 down the drain and 2 year waiver. Would be painful . . . but its the worst case I guess.

I think if all I need to do is add the barb to the IM, that should be easy enough.

 

I forgot to I have a 97 and it uses a obd2 emission test. I running a 96 jwt ecu with the emission codes removed since I can't not pass with a cel. I didn't use a em for this reason as it will not turn off any of the emisson codes and I would fail.

 

Here's the thread I was talking about. http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...q3-5-swap.html

 

Those aren't rust rings. They're paint marks from the factory.

 

Yep I figured that in another thread... Cams look pretty good.

 

Okay I am gonna buy the clutch and flywheel. Any vendors you guys like? Was looking at the Fidanza 12lb aluminum and the Exedy Stage 2, but I haven't seen too many vendors that stock both AND have good reviews.

Edit: I went to horsepowerfreaks. They seemed to have a reasonable price on both these items and good feedback. Only things I need to order now are the fuel pressure regulator, the Emanage Ultimate, and a wideband O2. Probably get a oil pressure gauge as well.

 

the oil line goes up the rear of the engine and into the block at the back (left side if facing timing cover). Does this get plugged? Don't remember seeing this on the vq30 but I haven't taken out the 30 to compare.

also, as many have probably said that crank pully is very hard to get off. I jammed a bolt between the auto flywheel and the motor stand and it kind of bent the stand LOL

 

Once the engine is on a stand, I clamp a coupe of vice grips on the flywheel so that it jams the flywheel, then use a 24" breaker bar to remove the bolt. For the six pulleys I've taken off, once the bolt is out, you can tap the pulley from behind and it comes off easily.

Horsepowerfreaks have been good for me.

 

Okay cool I have a breaker bar and a 6 foot fence post pipe that fits over it. I will get a few people to hold the motor and I will try and break it later. Do I need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) first before I start removing the pulley? I didn't see any marks indicating where the pulley would be aligned, however I see the mark on the black timing window cover. As I said, I am a huge noob.

 

It doesn't matter where the engine sits - just secure the flywheel and turn the bolt counter-clockwise. It will take a LOT of effort to get the bolt to break loose - it will probably make a loud Crack sound when it comes loose, but that's normal.

 

Okay good to know. I was reading about people using the crank pulley to identify TDC but I was confused as to where in the hell the mark is on the pulley. I will have to wait until tomorrow to take the pulley's bolt off because my roommates are gone and I need a second hand to hold onto the stand and keep it from flipping over (cheap autozone stand). I have pb-blaster on it for now.

 

Edited update:

I took the crank pulley off using this big fence post pipe, then the lower oil pan (10 bolts) and the upper oil pan (5 bolts inside, 7 bolts outside) and finally the timing chain outer cover. I will have pictures tomorrow when my roommate brings his camera back.

 

you'll see the mark whe you pull the outer timing cover off

 

I have a 96 maxima with the auto 4speed non lsd. it has almoast 300.000 on it and its acting up. so i was going to do a converson but i dont know what all is involved. I got an idea of what will play out but never done a converson befor. Im have done a water pump and tens with no problems can do it blindfolded so i know my way around a wrench pretty well. so any ideas or suggestions?

 

Okay update. I got TDC using the water pump and the first mark on the crank pulley as shown in the 2002 Max FSM:


Timing Chain:

(#1 cylinder) Cams picture (the camera makes the intake cam look messed up but its not)


Bottom of block with upper oil pan off: (its smooth on that surface, its just gaskety strings and stuff still on...)



christendad:
You should have no problem if you have done water pump and tensioner.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=82 read this for starters

 

Make sure you remember the position of the orange marks on the cams, that way you dont have to dig through the FSM later to find out which cam is intake and which is exhaust, you already took a picture so thats great!

Also remember when you put on the spacers for the cams, make sure the surface on spacer and cam are bone dry.