DE intake cams in DE-K
DE intake cams in DE-K
Has someone really done this? It is worth it. Trust me, I have searched. My dead DE engine will be out of the car, so if it is worth it, I will swap the intake cams in the DE-K that is going in the car. My questions are the following: For the DE-K, if all the timing marks are correct and the Cylinder 1 is a TDC on compression, can I remove all cams bolts and swap the intake cams without worrying of messing up timing? Do I need to use the DE intake cam brackets? Do I need to worry about the valve adjustment (i.e. shims)? Anything else I should know? Thanks all.
It doesn't seem worth it for 8* more duration.
The cams themselves should be a direct swap. They have dowels to ensure proper alignment. The length should be the same, so no adapters. You will have to remove the primary and secondary chains, so timing could be messed up, or worse if you jump teeth on the primary chain during the first start up. The DE cams have worn into the shims on your DE motor, and likewise on the DEK, so if you switch to the DE intake cams on the DEK, you would need to at least check the valve lash. Adjustment may be necessary.
I think if you are going to do it, do the Revup cams and springs at the very least, otherwise leave well-enough alone.
The cams themselves should be a direct swap. They have dowels to ensure proper alignment. The length should be the same, so no adapters. You will have to remove the primary and secondary chains, so timing could be messed up, or worse if you jump teeth on the primary chain during the first start up. The DE cams have worn into the shims on your DE motor, and likewise on the DEK, so if you switch to the DE intake cams on the DEK, you would need to at least check the valve lash. Adjustment may be necessary.
I think if you are going to do it, do the Revup cams and springs at the very least, otherwise leave well-enough alone.
Advise well taken. Thanks. Now, I may still have to take things apart because (i) I need to put the tensioner on the primary chain and make sure that things are aligned correctly, and (ii) the rear timing chain cover may need to be replaced or JB weld because of a small hole in it (size of a penny) above the alternator. If I were to replace the rear cover, do the secondary chains need to come off to get the cover off?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I can't remember if you need to remove the secondary chains to get the rear cover off or not. The FSM is written in such a way that has you remove the secondary chains before removing the rear cover, but (I don't have a rear cover in front of me) there looks to be two holes in the rear cover that the secondary chains/sprockets might fit through. Though, if you've come this far, it's really not a big deal to remove the secondary chains IMO.
Also, if you have the secondary cover off to repair it, think about taking it somewhere to get it welded, instead of using JB Weld. JB Weld might work, but getting it welded will work.
Also, if you have the secondary cover off to repair it, think about taking it somewhere to get it welded, instead of using JB Weld. JB Weld might work, but getting it welded will work.
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maxima297
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Sep 30, 2015 03:32 PM



