Aackshun's VQ35DE Swap Plans...
Dude, this thread is spam 
Just to re-clarify....
I have rev up cams.... I had a 3.5.... I had a buncha new timing crap ready to go on it..... But that motor I brought was garbage.
Now I'm getting a replacement motor, just keeping the full 3.5 and all of it's crap plugged into a standalone just so I can have the red car on the road again terrorizing innocent Z's/G's/Stangs/Camaros/Silly RWD cars
This Emerald may be the key.... Until I buy one I'm not pulling all the wires in my car just yet though....
So yeah:
Emerald K6 Controlled Madness consist of:
05 Vq35DE
Rev-Up cams
Z33 intake mani+5/8th spacer
Q45 TB mated to the Z33 Upper w/ custom elbow to match the ID of the throttle body (as close as we can).
OBX headers
3" TP
3" Cattman
6mt w/ the 4.1 FD
Let's try this again shall we?
OAN, another local org member needs to pick up his motor from my yard
.... And get it running so I can start another motor build thread later this year w/ the 3.0... You'll learn one day what this has to do w/ my 3.0 build.
Just to re-clarify....
I have rev up cams.... I had a 3.5.... I had a buncha new timing crap ready to go on it..... But that motor I brought was garbage.
Now I'm getting a replacement motor, just keeping the full 3.5 and all of it's crap plugged into a standalone just so I can have the red car on the road again terrorizing innocent Z's/G's/Stangs/Camaros/Silly RWD cars
This Emerald may be the key.... Until I buy one I'm not pulling all the wires in my car just yet though....
So yeah:
Emerald K6 Controlled Madness consist of:
05 Vq35DE
Rev-Up cams
Z33 intake mani+5/8th spacer
Q45 TB mated to the Z33 Upper w/ custom elbow to match the ID of the throttle body (as close as we can).
OBX headers
3" TP
3" Cattman
6mt w/ the 4.1 FD
Let's try this again shall we?
OAN, another local org member needs to pick up his motor from my yard
.... And get it running so I can start another motor build thread later this year w/ the 3.0... You'll learn one day what this has to do w/ my 3.0 build.
Last edited by aackshun; Mar 1, 2012 at 07:17 AM.
Dude, this thread is spam
Just to re-clarify....
I have rev up cams.... I had a 3.5.... I had a buncha new timing crap ready to go on it..... But that motor I brought was garbage.
Now I'm getting a replacement motor, just keeping the full 3.5 and all of it's crap plugged into a standalone just so I can have the red car on the road again terrorizing innocent Z's/G's/Stangs/Camaros/Silly RWD cars
This Emerald may be the key.... Until I buy one I'm not pulling all the wires in my car just yet though....
Just to re-clarify....
I have rev up cams.... I had a 3.5.... I had a buncha new timing crap ready to go on it..... But that motor I brought was garbage.
Now I'm getting a replacement motor, just keeping the full 3.5 and all of it's crap plugged into a standalone just so I can have the red car on the road again terrorizing innocent Z's/G's/Stangs/Camaros/Silly RWD cars
This Emerald may be the key.... Until I buy one I'm not pulling all the wires in my car just yet though....
hehe
sig worthy, haha
Question:
Who the fck has a standalone 4th gen????
To my knowledge this will be extremely simple....
Lets discuss the gauge cluster:
Item: What controls/lights it
Speedometer: Gets its signal straight from the VSS?
Tachometer: ??????? Reads from the ECU? Or the CPS?
Temp Gauge: Has it's own chitty sensor on zee water pipe
Fuel gauge: Connected to a resistor on the fuel pump assembly
Brake Light: ?
Battery Light: ?
^ What lights these both when the alternator goes bad?
ABS Light: ?
CEL: Who gives a....
High Beam light: ?
Turn Signal Light: ?
Seat Belt Light: ?
I know a bunch of these have NOTHING to do w/ the ECU, but minus well have a conclusive list..... Maybe one day someone will get the Haltech Racepak and this will be helpful....
Who the fck has a standalone 4th gen????
To my knowledge this will be extremely simple....
Lets discuss the gauge cluster:
Item: What controls/lights it
Speedometer: Gets its signal straight from the VSS?
Tachometer: ??????? Reads from the ECU? Or the CPS?
Temp Gauge: Has it's own chitty sensor on zee water pipe
Fuel gauge: Connected to a resistor on the fuel pump assembly
Brake Light: ?
Battery Light: ?
^ What lights these both when the alternator goes bad?
ABS Light: ?
CEL: Who gives a....
High Beam light: ?
Turn Signal Light: ?
Seat Belt Light: ?
I know a bunch of these have NOTHING to do w/ the ECU, but minus well have a conclusive list..... Maybe one day someone will get the Haltech Racepak and this will be helpful....
Question:
Who the fck has a standalone 4th gen????
To my knowledge this will be extremely simple....
Lets discuss the gauge cluster:
Item: What controls/lights it
Speedometer: Gets its signal straight from the VSS? - YES - Both wires from the VSS run directly to the speedo. It is a like mini "generator" and the speedo converts voltage in the gauge and then outputs a converted signal to the ECU via PIN 14 on a 97 (so this is important to hook that third pink/blue wire up too) From there the ECU inputs the tach signal back to the cluster... If anyone knows which wire from the VSS is positive and which is negative, please speak up.
Tachometer: ??????? Reads from the ECU? Or the CPS? - Reads from the ECU
Temp Gauge: Has it's own chitty sensor on zee water pipe - Yup
Fuel gauge: Connected to a resistor on the fuel pump assembly - Yes
E-Brake Light: ?
Battery Light: ?
^ What lights these both when the alternator goes bad? - One wire for both with a diode to differentiate - I think....still working on this one (figure Ill hook it up pull the altinator sensor plug on the alternator and see if it goes off, then pull the ebrake and make sure that works too....should be an easy trial and error)
ABS Light: ? - Pin 4 on a 97
CEL: Who gives a.... -Im also really struggling hooking this up... PIN 46
High Beam light: ?
Turn Signal Light: ?
Seat Belt Light: ?
I know a bunch of these have NOTHING to do w/ the ECU, but minus well have a conclusive list..... Maybe one day someone will get the Haltech Racepak and this will be helpful....
Who the fck has a standalone 4th gen????
To my knowledge this will be extremely simple....
Lets discuss the gauge cluster:
Item: What controls/lights it
Speedometer: Gets its signal straight from the VSS? - YES - Both wires from the VSS run directly to the speedo. It is a like mini "generator" and the speedo converts voltage in the gauge and then outputs a converted signal to the ECU via PIN 14 on a 97 (so this is important to hook that third pink/blue wire up too) From there the ECU inputs the tach signal back to the cluster... If anyone knows which wire from the VSS is positive and which is negative, please speak up.
Tachometer: ??????? Reads from the ECU? Or the CPS? - Reads from the ECU
Temp Gauge: Has it's own chitty sensor on zee water pipe - Yup
Fuel gauge: Connected to a resistor on the fuel pump assembly - Yes
E-Brake Light: ?
Battery Light: ?
^ What lights these both when the alternator goes bad? - One wire for both with a diode to differentiate - I think....still working on this one (figure Ill hook it up pull the altinator sensor plug on the alternator and see if it goes off, then pull the ebrake and make sure that works too....should be an easy trial and error)
ABS Light: ? - Pin 4 on a 97
CEL: Who gives a....
-Im also really struggling hooking this up... PIN 46High Beam light: ?
Turn Signal Light: ?
Seat Belt Light: ?
I know a bunch of these have NOTHING to do w/ the ECU, but minus well have a conclusive list..... Maybe one day someone will get the Haltech Racepak and this will be helpful....
97 Gauge
97 EL88 1 Red/Black Fuel low light
97 EL90 2 White/Red E-Brake (diode to 42) ??? - Not sure what this goes to (basically I havent figured out the Diode yet).
97 EL91 3 Red/White Door
97 EL90 4 blue/Red ABS fail lamp
97 EL73 5 Red/Yellow Illumination (from dimmer switch) (ground)
6
7
97 EL90 8 Yellow Cruise Lamp power
97 EL90 9 Yellow/Red E- Brake
97 EL82 10 Black Ground - Fuel Gauge/airbag
97 EL81 11 Light Green/Black Speedo - VSS Terminal 1
12
97 EL82 13 Orange/Light Blue Fuel Gauge (-)
97 EL81 14 Pink/Light Blue speedo out - Directly to Speed Sensor ASCD (through M50/F105 T 15 to ECM)
15
16 Black Ground
97 EL81 17 White/Green From ECM to Tach (from ECM through M50/F105 T3)
18
97 EL67 19 Green/Yellow RH Turn Signal
20
97 EL45 21 Yellow High Beam
22 Over Drive Off
23 Overdrive
24
25
26
27
97 EL81 28 Brown/White Speedo - VSS Terminal 2
97 EL88 29 Red/White From Airbag diagnosis sensor
30
97 EL81 31 Black Ground (tach/cruise)
97 EL67 32 Green/Orange LH Turn Signal
33
34
35
97 EL73 36 Red/White Illumination (power from Fuse Block)
97 EL82 37 Light Blue/Black Water Temp Guage (from sensor negative)
97 EL82 38 Black Ground Water Temp Guage
39
97 EL73 40 Red/Yellow Illumination (from dimmer switch) (ground)
97 EL81 41 Green Ignition Power
97 EL90 42 White/Red Battery Charge to Alternator (diode from T2)
97 EL88 43 Brown/Yellow Oil Pressure
97 EL88 44 Green/Red Seatbelt
97 EL88 45 Yellow Washer Fluid Light
97 EL88 46 Light Green / Black CEL Light (from ECM through M50/F105 T7)
Last edited by sergofast; Mar 2, 2012 at 06:16 AM.
You are da man! This helps out A LOT! My main concerns were the Tachometer and warning functions of the car, EG Oil pressure, Failed Alternator, Battery Light, etc.
This thread became useful again
This thread became useful again
I can send you this excel file when Im finished if you want. Just PM me. What I havent quite figured out is the Brake fluid and the Ebrake are connected at the same terminal (#9 - Y/R). I looks like it has a diode that differentiates between the two. but then there is a second diode that connects the brake light to the alternator via Terminal #2 (w/R). Any idea why?
Also be sure to hook up all the airbag stuff...this is important! im not liable for any damage/injury...
It does matter what year your car is. The 98/99 dash wires are very different from a 97....but there are a few guys who have done cluster swaps on a 98/99 that have this info posted in other threads.
I'm only concerned is what they have to do w/ the ECU, and so far the only thing that needs the ECU is the Tachometer, which I'm sure K6 can output the correct signal for it, nbd.
Shameless Plug:
Rev Up Cams for sale btw.....
Last edited by aackshun; Mar 6, 2012 at 10:49 AM.
This isn't happening anymore.
BTW 3.5 for Sale 600+shipping, comes w/ a 90 day warranty.
Or if you want any other motor around that price range LMK.
I have went another route yet again, but this time I planned with my budget and not with what I want, starting today I went down the path that financially makes more sense.
I do promise that this build is pure insanity though, not being done because it's the cheapest, but because i have the parts just lying around.
BTW 3.5 for Sale 600+shipping, comes w/ a 90 day warranty.
Or if you want any other motor around that price range LMK.
I have went another route yet again, but this time I planned with my budget and not with what I want, starting today I went down the path that financially makes more sense.
I do promise that this build is pure insanity though, not being done because it's the cheapest, but because i have the parts just lying around.
Too many problems, rather just have a 100% reliable race caw (motor wise). Only thing that sucks about this new build is I have to break in the motor, but I've never done that before so it should be fun 
With an emphasis on the 250 ft/lbs that's my real goal, as for the HP goal knowing I have a will have an undersquare motor this will probably be harder or easier to achieve, there are some physics to an engine I don't quite understand yet onto which exactly would be easier because undersquare motors in general have been low end TQ monsters, but have also been high end TQ-less wonders too.... Just depends on the head I guess.... Which is one thing that I need to address but after some thought just too much work for a little gain.
But after some ricer math my wtq goal should be easily achievable based on where my VQ30 left off, we'll see in due time with a dyno sheet.
Oh and Yes I am.
Stop being
in general Doesn't matter, still tomei cams = cost of build.
Last edited by aackshun; Apr 20, 2012 at 06:26 AM.
260/250 would be the goal.
With an emphasis on the 250 ft/lbs that's my real goal, as for the HP goal knowing I have a will have an undersquare motor this will probably be harder or easier to achieve, there are some physics to an engine I don't quite understand yet onto which exactly would be easier because undersquare motors in general have been low end TQ monsters, but have also been high end TQ-less wonders too.... Just depends on the head I guess.... Which is one thing that I need to address but after some thought just too much work for a little gain.
But after some ricer math my wtq goal should be easily achievable based on where my VQ30 left off, we'll see in due time with a dyno sheet.
Oh and Yes I am.
Stop being in general
Doesn't matter, still tomei cams = cost of build.
With an emphasis on the 250 ft/lbs that's my real goal, as for the HP goal knowing I have a will have an undersquare motor this will probably be harder or easier to achieve, there are some physics to an engine I don't quite understand yet onto which exactly would be easier because undersquare motors in general have been low end TQ monsters, but have also been high end TQ-less wonders too.... Just depends on the head I guess.... Which is one thing that I need to address but after some thought just too much work for a little gain.
But after some ricer math my wtq goal should be easily achievable based on where my VQ30 left off, we'll see in due time with a dyno sheet.
Oh and Yes I am.
Stop being
in general Doesn't matter, still tomei cams = cost of build.
Go on my350Z classified see if you can find some cams FS for cheap on there. Nismo R-tunes also will work.
Will you just do it. The more you b1tch the further away you are getting from those torques. VQ35+S1 cams, Tune it on an emanage or something like that it will make the power you want.
Go on my350Z classified see if you can find some cams FS for cheap on there. Nismo R-tunes also will work.
Go on my350Z classified see if you can find some cams FS for cheap on there. Nismo R-tunes also will work.
260/250 would be the goal.
With an emphasis on the 250 ft/lbs that's my real goal, as for the HP goal knowing I have a will have an undersquare motor this will probably be harder or easier to achieve, there are some physics to an engine I don't quite understand yet onto which exactly would be easier because undersquare motors in general have been low end TQ monsters, but have also been high end TQ-less wonders too.... Just depends on the head I guess.... Which is one thing that I need to address but after some thought just too much work for a little gain.
But after some ricer math my wtq goal should be easily achievable based on where my VQ30 left off, we'll see in due time with a dyno sheet.
Oh and Yes I am.
Stop being in general
Doesn't matter, still tomei cams = cost of build.
With an emphasis on the 250 ft/lbs that's my real goal, as for the HP goal knowing I have a will have an undersquare motor this will probably be harder or easier to achieve, there are some physics to an engine I don't quite understand yet onto which exactly would be easier because undersquare motors in general have been low end TQ monsters, but have also been high end TQ-less wonders too.... Just depends on the head I guess.... Which is one thing that I need to address but after some thought just too much work for a little gain.
But after some ricer math my wtq goal should be easily achievable based on where my VQ30 left off, we'll see in due time with a dyno sheet.
Oh and Yes I am.
Stop being
in general Doesn't matter, still tomei cams = cost of build.
