Ranma's 2002 Nissan Maxima build
3rd gear for both, that car was definitely not going all the way to 120mph
Now the numbers seem just about right for a 3rd gear pull I could do the math but a rough guess puts you in the 240 ft/lb range.
Now the numbers seem just about right for a 3rd gear pull I could do the math but a rough guess puts you in the 240 ft/lb range.
I'm still learning. I don't know difference in SAE and non-SAE or difference in 3rd or 4th gear pulls or mustang dynos, etc....what's the difference?? I'm just happy with the numbers but it seems they all different and varied. From all these different parameters and different ways to measure power seems like there is no UNIVERSAL way of measuring power?
no, there is not. that is why comparing dynos with other people that dynod on different machines, or even different days, is not an accurate way of 'comparing' power levels.
SAE and STD (which hasn't been mentioned yet in this thread but might as well be) are types of dyno correction for differing atmospheric conditions that, in theory, are supposed to correct out those differing conditions. for instance. if you dynod your car and it was 50 degrees out with high atmospheric pressure, and then later dyno'd your car and it was 90 degrees out with low pressure, the uncorrected numbers would be different (the cold dyno would be higher) but the SAE corrected numbers should in theory be the same, because the SAE correction is "correcting out" the differing atmospheric conditions. same with STD correction, except it does it in a different way so STD correction and SAE correction numbers would differ from each other. The uncorrected numbers are the hp and tq actually measured by the dyno machine. furthermore, SAE and STD correction rely upon ACCURATE atmospheric readings from the sensors installed on the dyno to properly come up with SAE and STD correction factors. in my experience those sensors are usually not accurate. i've seen some totally impossible atmospheric conditions listed on dynos, which means that the SAE and STD correction factors coming from those dynos are incorrect.
to add more confusion, simple things like tire pressure, alignment (if it's way out of wack) and how the car is strapped down can affect dyno numbers.
there are different types of dynamometers that read differently. dynojet is probably the most common here in the states. mustang dynos use different hardware and software and measure power in a different way. dynapack dynos are again different. dynomite dynos are different. etc. lastly, all dynos have software that can be manipulated to read high or low or somewhere in between.
suffice to say, comparing one dyno number to another is silly. there are plenty of impressive dyno cars out there that are way slower than cars with more modest dynos, and then of course on top of dyno differences you have to take into account other differences like driver, track, etc.
SAE and STD (which hasn't been mentioned yet in this thread but might as well be) are types of dyno correction for differing atmospheric conditions that, in theory, are supposed to correct out those differing conditions. for instance. if you dynod your car and it was 50 degrees out with high atmospheric pressure, and then later dyno'd your car and it was 90 degrees out with low pressure, the uncorrected numbers would be different (the cold dyno would be higher) but the SAE corrected numbers should in theory be the same, because the SAE correction is "correcting out" the differing atmospheric conditions. same with STD correction, except it does it in a different way so STD correction and SAE correction numbers would differ from each other. The uncorrected numbers are the hp and tq actually measured by the dyno machine. furthermore, SAE and STD correction rely upon ACCURATE atmospheric readings from the sensors installed on the dyno to properly come up with SAE and STD correction factors. in my experience those sensors are usually not accurate. i've seen some totally impossible atmospheric conditions listed on dynos, which means that the SAE and STD correction factors coming from those dynos are incorrect.
to add more confusion, simple things like tire pressure, alignment (if it's way out of wack) and how the car is strapped down can affect dyno numbers.
there are different types of dynamometers that read differently. dynojet is probably the most common here in the states. mustang dynos use different hardware and software and measure power in a different way. dynapack dynos are again different. dynomite dynos are different. etc. lastly, all dynos have software that can be manipulated to read high or low or somewhere in between.
suffice to say, comparing one dyno number to another is silly. there are plenty of impressive dyno cars out there that are way slower than cars with more modest dynos, and then of course on top of dyno differences you have to take into account other differences like driver, track, etc.
DANG! Well I think I'm going to stick with the same shop doing my dyno then. At least I know its the same machine and would be better than going to another shop with a different machine and dyno and getting totally different numbers. I believe this way I'll have a somewhat accurate way of comparing numbers. Next dyno will be around mid November. So from what you are saying my numbers in the summer will be lower due to more heat outside?
uncorrected numbers could be lower (temperature is not the only factor though), but the dyno you posted is STD corrected so who knows. it depends how accurate their atmospheric sensors are.
when and where (exactly) did you dyno. if we are lucky there is an airport nearby with an awos or other atmospheric condition recording system that i can use to look up the exact conditions at the time you dynod, and i can compare those conditions to the conditions listed on the bottom of your dyno to see if your dyno shops sensors are accurate or if they are all out of wack like I've seen them sometimes be. also, was your dyno shop a closed and insulated place (which would mean that the conditions outside are not necessarily equivalent to the conditions inside) or was it just something simple with no insulation and a decent amount of outside air circulating near the dyno?
when and where (exactly) did you dyno. if we are lucky there is an airport nearby with an awos or other atmospheric condition recording system that i can use to look up the exact conditions at the time you dynod, and i can compare those conditions to the conditions listed on the bottom of your dyno to see if your dyno shops sensors are accurate or if they are all out of wack like I've seen them sometimes be. also, was your dyno shop a closed and insulated place (which would mean that the conditions outside are not necessarily equivalent to the conditions inside) or was it just something simple with no insulation and a decent amount of outside air circulating near the dyno?
uncorrected numbers could be lower (temperature is not the only factor though), but the dyno you posted is STD corrected so who knows. it depends how accurate their atmospheric sensors are.
when and where (exactly) did you dyno. if we are lucky there is an airport nearby with an awos or other atmospheric condition recording system that i can use to look up the exact conditions at the time you dynod, and i can compare those conditions to the conditions listed on the bottom of your dyno to see if your dyno shops sensors are accurate or if they are all out of wack like I've seen them sometimes be. also, was your dyno shop a closed and insulated place (which would mean that the conditions outside are not necessarily equivalent to the conditions inside) or was it just something simple with no insulation and a decent amount of outside air circulating near the dyno?
when and where (exactly) did you dyno. if we are lucky there is an airport nearby with an awos or other atmospheric condition recording system that i can use to look up the exact conditions at the time you dynod, and i can compare those conditions to the conditions listed on the bottom of your dyno to see if your dyno shops sensors are accurate or if they are all out of wack like I've seen them sometimes be. also, was your dyno shop a closed and insulated place (which would mean that the conditions outside are not necessarily equivalent to the conditions inside) or was it just something simple with no insulation and a decent amount of outside air circulating near the dyno?
Finally decided on some rims. They are the TSW Interlagos wheels 18x8.5" going to go with 245/40s. They weigh about 19.5lbs which is alot lighter than the stock wheels. Ordered them today they should be in next week. Also getting the calipers painted red. Will take pics of that too! The 3.5" intake pipe came in the mail also last week...THANKS SURRATT!!
Finally got a 3.5" 45 degree bend aluminum pipe!!
Also got some subframe collars:
Collars and rims going on Monday. Also going to paint the calipers red. Have to get this on BEFORE the Northeast Maxima Meetup on next Sunday!! It'll be nice to get these half bald tires off the car, then I can stop driving the car like Grandma.
I will post pics of the car sometime later in the week.
Also got some subframe collars:
Collars and rims going on Monday. Also going to paint the calipers red. Have to get this on BEFORE the Northeast Maxima Meetup on next Sunday!! It'll be nice to get these half bald tires off the car, then I can stop driving the car like Grandma.
I will post pics of the car sometime later in the week.
Last edited by ranmas2004; Nov 6, 2011 at 11:43 AM.
Just dropped the car off at the spot. I got to check out those rims. Opened the box and they are BEAUTIFUL!!! I went and picked them up thinking that I had to muscle them out....and the rim flew out the box.....SUPER LIGHT. I can basically hold the rim in one hand with my arm stretched out no problem! I should have taken a pic of that!! They say car should be ready by the time I get off work tomorrow!!! I'm HYPE!!!!
Got a call from the shop today and they ran out of red caliper paint and had to order some more. So I will have to wait until tomorrow to pick up the car. So I dropped by to check out the rims. Those 245s are FAT!! They had them mounted to the tire. I also did a check to see if they are lighter than the stock ones....WHAT A DIFFERENCE in weight. I lifted the stock tire with wheel on in and then lifted the TSW tire with the wheel on it...night and day! They also installed the subframe collars too, just waiting on the caliper paint. Its supposed to rain tomorrow...SUCKS!!! It was 70 degrees today would have been PERFECT to take pics. I got a pic of the wheels in the shop though:
Last edited by ranmas2004; Nov 8, 2011 at 08:14 PM.
OK finally got the car back today!! It looks AWESOME!!! Subframe collars also got installed this time around too. They did a great job!!! So far tires are WAY better than the old tires I had on the car. I can tell the car rides a little bit harder due to the lower profile tires, but nothing BRUTAL.
I just cant get over how fat those tires are!!!
Next up are all new rotors, Hawk brake pads and SS brake lines!!!! Shop also recommended I change brake fluid too and that it would make a huge difference!
I just cant get over how fat those tires are!!!
Next up are all new rotors, Hawk brake pads and SS brake lines!!!! Shop also recommended I change brake fluid too and that it would make a huge difference!
Its been awhile since I've updated my progress. I have not really done anything except add a Blue Nismo oil cap and a chrome Nismo radiator cap. Going to do a blue and Chrome theme under the hood.
But anyway I recently ordered a CRAP load of stuff for the Maxima:
After I install the new brakes and radiator (brand new fluids in BOTH) and custom intake manifold with the 09 Maxima TB that will pretty much complete my all motor build (after some more acceleration videos). Too bad winter is coming now!! I will then transfer over to the boosted thread because I decided to go custom turbo on a stock motor and boost about 6-8PSI and just leave it alone. Then I can work on my chrome and blue engine bay theme and get my audio system installed and that will pretty much be it. If everything goes well I should be complete with everything by May 2012. then I will have the entire summer for meetups and funtimes with my fellow Nissan fans!!!
For you guys that would like more info on the Racing Brake OE caliper kit here it is...I think it will be a fantastic kit!!
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/oe..._brake_kit.asp
Wife told me the kit arrived at home today and I will take some pics of it and post tomorrow.
EDIT:
Pics of the Nismo Oil and Radiator caps.......going to look really well with the chrome engine cover and powder coated custom manifold in there!
Close up:
But anyway I recently ordered a CRAP load of stuff for the Maxima:
- Racing Brake OE Caliper upgrade Kit (uses a custom made braket and allows for use of 12.8" rotors with OEM calipers....more braking power)
- New Hawk front ceramic pads front and AISIN rear ceramic pads (Hawk dont make rear ceramics for 5.5gen)
- Mishimoto Radiator, (2) 16" blue slim fans, 350z racing thermostat
- Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines
- Samco blue radiator hoses
- 2004 Rear Valve cover and gasket
After I install the new brakes and radiator (brand new fluids in BOTH) and custom intake manifold with the 09 Maxima TB that will pretty much complete my all motor build (after some more acceleration videos
). Too bad winter is coming now!! I will then transfer over to the boosted thread because I decided to go custom turbo on a stock motor and boost about 6-8PSI and just leave it alone. Then I can work on my chrome and blue engine bay theme and get my audio system installed and that will pretty much be it. If everything goes well I should be complete with everything by May 2012. then I will have the entire summer for meetups and funtimes with my fellow Nissan fans!!!For you guys that would like more info on the Racing Brake OE caliper kit here it is...I think it will be a fantastic kit!!
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/oe..._brake_kit.asp
Wife told me the kit arrived at home today and I will take some pics of it and post tomorrow.
EDIT:
Pics of the Nismo Oil and Radiator caps.......going to look really well with the chrome engine cover and powder coated custom manifold in there!
Close up:
Last edited by ranmas2004; Dec 2, 2011 at 03:56 PM.
OK as promised here are the pics of the OE Brake upgrade kit from Racing Brake:
Custom caliper brackets to accommodate the bigger rotors:
12.8" Rotors....these thing are BIG:
Entire kit:
Also the kit came with these front brake pads (pictured above) that I am not going to use...if someone makes me an offer I can just sell them....they are brand new and don't have shims.
Custom caliper brackets to accommodate the bigger rotors:
12.8" Rotors....these thing are BIG:
Entire kit:
Also the kit came with these front brake pads (pictured above) that I am not going to use...if someone makes me an offer I can just sell them....they are brand new and don't have shims.
they're made to fit under the stock OFFSET wheels. not necessarily stock wheels.
Look at this way.
12.8 rotors + that bracket + brake caliper. No way for sure knowing until you try it out, but i bet it's gonna be cutting it close.
Also one of the advantages of usual BBK is that it replaces the single piston with double piston calipers. However breaking power should still be increased with this since it moves the caliper further outwards and thus has more leverage
Look at this way.
12.8 rotors + that bracket + brake caliper. No way for sure knowing until you try it out, but i bet it's gonna be cutting it close.
Also one of the advantages of usual BBK is that it replaces the single piston with double piston calipers. However breaking power should still be increased with this since it moves the caliper further outwards and thus has more leverage
That I don't know.
Exactly their point in making the OE caliper kit. Can't wait to try the new brakes out.
Exactly their point in making the OE caliper kit. Can't wait to try the new brakes out.
Any ETA on those?
Yeh me too...I called yesterday and they said they would be mailing the stuff out this week. they are finishing up on the powder coating and will send everything. So hopefully I'll have them next week.
Got the Mishimoto Radiator in today and the 350z Thermostat!!!
The Mishimoto radiator is a bit larger than the stock one:
I heard the housing for the 350z thermostat wont fit so I'll just take the thermostat our and put t in the 02 housing..
I also got the 2004 Maxima Rear valve cover as well......piling all this stuff up in the closet for the March 12 install with the turbo kit!!!
The Mishimoto radiator is a bit larger than the stock one:
I heard the housing for the 350z thermostat wont fit so I'll just take the thermostat our and put t in the 02 housing..
I also got the 2004 Maxima Rear valve cover as well......piling all this stuff up in the closet for the March 12 install with the turbo kit!!!
Alright...did the 17 degree timing advance via Cipher (great program) and got a dyno scheduled for TOMORROW!!! I just want to see what it actually did because I can feel the added power. The last time I dynoed I had stock rims and now I have lighter weight rims. I don't know if that will interfere with seeing the power difference between 15 degree and 17 degree timing. So if I make 5 more hp is that more from lighter rims or timing? Everything else is the same though only added lighter 18" wheels and 17 degree timing advance. Anyway...we shall see tomorrow. I'm guessing about 5 more whp and 4ft-lbs more. So should see about 265hp and 255ft-lbs....When they are done I will post a dyno sheet with the results and overlay the previous dyno on top of it to compare.
Also still waiting on SFR for the intake manifold...MY GOD they must be REALLY busy. Placed order October 13th. People probably going to have theirs made from Sparks, installed and driving by the time I get mine. They said they finished powder coating the manifold and wiring up the Haltech. I hope they can get that stuff here fast so I can get it installed with the 09 TB and get it dynoed before the snow get here!!
Also still waiting on SFR for the intake manifold...MY GOD they must be REALLY busy. Placed order October 13th. People probably going to have theirs made from Sparks, installed and driving by the time I get mine. They said they finished powder coating the manifold and wiring up the Haltech. I hope they can get that stuff here fast so I can get it installed with the 09 TB and get it dynoed before the snow get here!!
Last edited by ranmas2004; Dec 15, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
i dont believe you got the speed force racing manifold..>SLOW is the S apparently lol. How much did they hit you for for the haltech bro? Contemplating a couple changes and if i do go and boost it, i think that will really be my oonly tuning option. Just seell the utec and start there :/ then try to piece a turbo setup together.
i dont believe you got the speed force racing manifold..>SLOW is the S apparently lol. How much did they hit you for for the haltech bro? Contemplating a couple changes and if i do go and boost it, i think that will really be my oonly tuning option. Just seell the utec and start there :/ then try to piece a turbo setup together.
@GETRYTE
On their website it says something like $1849 for the Haltech wired up to PnP in the Maxima ECU. I got a different deal because I got the mani, engine cover, powder coating and Haltech all in one package...so I couldn't tell you how much the Haltech was alone.
Finally got the dyno done today after I changed the timing from 15 degrees to 17 degrees using Cipher. Not much change in PEAK numbers (gained 4 ft-lbs on peak and HP stayed the same) BUT if you look at the midrange I picked up 10hp & 12 ft-lbs at 4100rpm over the last dyno.....torque increased some on the lower end too. I know I felt something!! Definitely changes how the car feels!
Alright....talked to Speedforceracing and they said that they will have a tracking number for me on Thursday. So hopefully sometime next week I will have this thing......
