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Ranma's 2002 Nissan Maxima build

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Old 01-04-2012 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Elemental
Which dealer did you buy the brake kit from? Btw the car looks killer & awesome power!
I got the kit from these people:

http://www.racingbrake.com/

Thanks for the compliments! I think this kit is a better alternative than the 300z conversion and having the pad hanging off the rotor like that wearing the pad out like that doesn't seem efficient to me. Seems dangerous too.
Old 01-04-2012 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004

Thanks for the compliments! I think this kit is a better alternative than the 300z conversion and having the pad hanging off the rotor like that wearing the pad out like that doesn't seem efficient to me. Seems dangerous too.
Couple of years ago you would have been flamme for saying something like this.
Old 01-04-2012 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift_Max
Couple of years ago you would have been flamme for saying something like this.
how times change
Old 01-04-2012 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift_Max
Couple of years ago you would have been flamme for saying something like this.
I'm confused as to why the pad would be hanging off

If you have the brackets, then it fits good.
Old 01-05-2012 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I'm confused as to why the pad would be hanging off

If you have the brackets, then it fits good.
THIS is what you get with the 300z brake conversion brackets....for more info read:

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/oe..._brake_kit.asp

basically looks like pic below.....



That PINK part is the brake pad hanging off the rotor....uneven wear....dangerous and inefficient.
Old 01-05-2012 | 10:53 PM
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Do you have your intake manifold yet
Old 01-06-2012 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
THIS is what you get with the 300z brake conversion brackets....for more info read:

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/oe..._brake_kit.asp

basically looks like pic below.....



That PINK part is the brake pad hanging off the rotor....uneven wear....dangerous and inefficient.
except that the 300zx caliper is dual piston and the brake pad itself is twice the size of the stock one. the caliper is so much larger that even with minimal overhang you still have more net contact.
Old 01-06-2012 | 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Cooloculo
Do you have your intake manifold yet
NOPE......everytime I call "Yeah, were sending it tomorrow. We'll call you with a tracking number." I figure I'll give them a couple more weeks.....must be really busy down there.
Old 01-06-2012 | 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by McSteve
except that the 300zx caliper is dual piston and the brake pad itself is twice the size of the stock one. the caliper is so much larger that even with minimal overhang you still have more net contact.
True but that should not be an excuse for it happening. Full pad contact is always a good thing.
Old 01-06-2012 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shift_Max
True but that should not be an excuse for it happening. Full pad contact is always a good thing.
Exactly what I was thinking. Just because it fits doesn't make it right. It could be 4 piston and that would still be inefficient having pad wear like that. I'm trying to build my car slow and do some research and have everything be done safetly. I would feel very uncomfortable riding around with a car with a pad hanging off the rotor like that.

Anyway...I was reading a post earlier about someone fixing the synchros in the tranny to fix that 3rd gear crunch before putting a turbo on and magnifying the problem. Going to be doing that fix. Also going to replace BOTH VCs. Going to have them painted blue to match the theme I'm trying to do under the hood. Once I start with the turbo build I'll just start a thread over there and post a link to the thread on here.....I was trying to make 300whp N/A....but for the money (cams, springs, etc) I could go turbo and have way more power. Low boost about 6PSI Daily driving then have a boost controller to put it to 8PSI when I want to really get on it. Decided to go with a ball bearing turbo. When I was at the shop they showed me a turbo kit they did on a COMPLETELY STOCK 03 350z that made 340whp at 6PSI. With all my mods and the SFR manifold with 2k9 TB I think it'll make way more than that on low boost. I don't beat the crap out of my car driving crazy so everything should be fine.

BUT......still waiting on SFR manifold so I can put this thing on and dyno it. Going to be very interesting to see what gains under the curve I get. I really don't think peak will go up THAT much, maybe 5HP.

Last edited by ranmas2004; 01-06-2012 at 05:55 AM.
Old 01-06-2012 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
Anyway...I was reading a post earlier about someone fixing the synchros in the tranny to fix that 3rd gear crunch before putting a turbo on and magnifying the problem.
That's a lot of labor cost for just one synchro (unless you have the hookup just disregard this post). You should just do what I told you via PM, low mileage tranny ready for the abuse, instead of one low mileage synchro.
Old 01-06-2012 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by aackshun
That's a lot of labor cost for just one synchro (unless you have the hookup just disregard this post). You should just do what I told you via PM, low mileage tranny ready for the abuse, instead of one low mileage synchro.
Yeh. I asked a transmission shop about that and they said a direct swap would be a cake job. But if I want to swap the final gear going to have to take both transmissions apart to get to final gear because they would have to take apart the tranny to get to the final gear on the Maxima and take tranny apart on the SPEC-V to replace it with Maxima final gear and that would be the same as taking the Maxima tranny apart and just getting new synchros...this is what I was told. Im not a transmission expert though.
Old 01-06-2012 | 09:36 AM
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if your going turbo wouldnt a lower final drive be better? 3.8>4.13
Old 01-06-2012 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tuko316
if your going turbo wouldnt a lower final drive be better? 3.8>4.13
I was told a higher final drive is better because when boost comes in those short gears could cause traction issues and that taller gears would be better to control that.
Old 01-07-2012 | 01:13 AM
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I have the 300ZX BBK...my pads don't hang over and I only have 12.6" rotors lol

That's why I'm confused.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 01-07-2012 at 01:19 AM.
Old 01-07-2012 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I have the 300ZX BBK...my pads don't hang over and I only have 12.6" rotors lol

That's why I'm confused.
I don't know bro. This is what I'm talking about though.....

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...cobra-bbk.html

Old 01-07-2012 | 08:02 AM
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This been a real good read.
Old 01-08-2012 | 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
I don't know bro. This is what I'm talking about though.....

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...cobra-bbk.html

i had a previous set of calipers that i sold (because i thought i was selling my max) and had that issue along with noises. I have a different pair now and no noises. I think either there was a difference as to whether the calipers where the aluminum or iron ones or someone sold me the wrong size caliper (26mm vs 30mm or whatever it is)

Now I don't have any issues. Also from looking at it further, the metal of the pads would be touching each other before the over hang of each pad would make contact. that little bit of overhand does not pose a safety threat.

Last edited by McSteve; 01-08-2012 at 02:59 AM.
Old 01-08-2012 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
I was told a higher final drive is better because when boost comes in those short gears could cause traction issues and that taller gears would be better to control that.
higher final drive gives you shorter gears. a 3.8 would be better .
Old 01-09-2012 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I have the 300ZX BBK...my pads don't hang over and I only have 12.6" rotors lol

That's why I'm confused.
Because you are using a 12.6: rotor. The issue arises with a 13" rotor.
Old 01-09-2012 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tuko316
if your going turbo wouldnt a lower final drive be better? 3.8>4.13
Originally Posted by tuko316
higher final drive gives you shorter gears. a 3.8 would be better .
This is what I told you via PM

Ranma just call me, I can explain better 832-467-4400 ask for aaron.
Old 01-09-2012 | 10:19 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by aackshun
This is what I told you via PM

Ranma just call me, I can explain better 832-467-4400 ask for aaron.
OH BOY...I'm confused now. I don't know anything about transmission gear ratios.

I'm at work now....I'll call when I get off. Thanks.
Old 01-13-2012 | 12:09 PM
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OK...called SFR today...They FINALLY got the manifold and the engine cover in and they are shipping it out today......hopefully. Tim took a pic of it and sent it to me on his cell phone.....looks good. He said he still has not wired Haltech yet and will do that this weekend and send that out separately on Monday.

Also called tuner and will order the 550cc injectors and get that changed along with the 1 step colder spark plugs, Valve covers, mani, 2k9 maxima TB, 3.5" intake and get the Hatlech on with a tune. Then will not have to take the manifold off again when they do the turbo since all that stuff will be in already. Hopefully in 2 weeks I'll have another dyno up!

Tuner said he thinks it will do 280whp after everything. Then again the first time I brought it in to dyno he said it would do about 245-250 and I did 259. So hope hes off again. I'm hoping for 290whp (would be nice)

Old 01-14-2012 | 07:48 AM
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OK....now I know its sent for sure...I got tracking numbers!!!! Says it should be here Thursday! Also they said they would wire up the Haltech this weekend and send that as well. So the week AFTER next week I should be able to take the car and get everything installed!!! Going to have them install Haltech and tune first just to see what the full bolt ons will do......then put the Manifold on with 2k9 Maxima TB and all the other stuff and re-tune and see the difference.

STAY TUNED......the following weeks this is going to get VERY interesting!!!
Old 01-14-2012 | 01:00 PM
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In then end I believe this is going to be MY FAULT.....

I have been noticing the car hesitating on acceleration when I WOT it. Have been ignoring it. Also notice when I WOT and high on rpms CD player starts to skip....and if I have my phone attatched to charger phone turns off and resets....real wierd.

So today I was driving home from the gym and was at a light. In front of me was nothing so I decide to gun it and have some fun accelerating to 50mph (speed limit was 45). So light turns green and I go. Then, all of a sudden SES light and car will not go past like 1200rpm. Had enough momentum to get pulled over into an abandoned home parking lot. Pulled out my trusty OBD II scanner and read the dreaded P1122 code. GARBAGE!!! So I reset the code and car is running fine and accelerates now. So I pull off and notice that jerky motion while accelerating WOT that I been noticing in the car. So I figure its the SB (Sprint Booster) going bad. Pulled over to the local school lot here turned the car off and REMOVED the SB. Everything is normal. Started the car up and started driving and get hesitation and jerky acceleration (only under WOT) the same as when SB was connected. I did a search on here about the P1122 code and seen that grounding kits may help. So I ordered one from Stillen. I really think the problem is the RETARDED AZZ HACK job I did on the wiring on my TB (should have did a better job than that). If you go back to the 1st page of my post and look at post #14 you will see that I cut the ECU harness and wired it up to test the 09 TB. After that I connected the 02 TB back up with the same connectors. I believe it was a poor wiring job because car never did this before. So I think its causing a short and that's why TP sensor that is why its sensing low voltage. I figure when it gets to bad the ECU shuts it down into a safe mode to keep goofballs like me from ruining anything further. I feel like total RETARD, but anyway it will all get fixed when I get the 09 TB installed and get it professionally wired up with good connections. You live and you learn. I still think the grounding kit will help too (cant hurt). I think I'm just going to leave the thing parked for a couple of weeks and just drive the MDX until I get ready to take it to the shop to get tuned. I just had to share my story, even though its embarrasing
Old 01-16-2012 | 08:20 AM
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ETA of the package?
Old 01-16-2012 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
OK...called SFR today...They FINALLY got the manifold and the engine cover in and they are shipping it out today......hopefully. Tim took a pic of it and sent it to me on his cell phone.....looks good. He said he still has not wired Haltech yet and will do that this weekend and send that out separately on Monday.

Also called tuner and will order the 550cc injectors and get that changed along with the 1 step colder spark plugs, Valve covers, mani, 2k9 maxima TB, 3.5" intake and get the Hatlech on with a tune. Then will not have to take the manifold off again when they do the turbo since all that stuff will be in already. Hopefully in 2 weeks I'll have another dyno up!

Tuner said he thinks it will do 280whp after everything. Then again the first time I brought it in to dyno he said it would do about 245-250 and I did 259. So hope hes off again. I'm hoping for 290whp (would be nice)

i highly doubt 290whp... but this is interesting, a max of 280whp seems a bit of a push but believable of some sort yea
Old 01-16-2012 | 10:47 AM
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LMAO remember he has VTC and Haltech....
Old 01-16-2012 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Shift_Max
LMAO remember he has VTC and Haltech....
and also a 2009 Maxima TB which is 75mm not 70mm like stock one. So that will have to make some difference. Sparks made 285whp on a UTEC with STOCK TB and he said it wasnt even fully tuned.....

ETA on package is 1/19/12!!!!
Old 01-16-2012 | 11:12 AM
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Are you going to dyno the stock i/m with haltech then the new i/m?


or are you only doing new i/m and haltech?
Old 01-16-2012 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SurraTT
Are you going to dyno the stock i/m with haltech then the new i/m?


or are you only doing new i/m and haltech?
I told my tuner I want to tune with the Haltech without IM first just to see what full bolt ons do....then put the IM and all on and do another tune and see what we get. Going to be interesting for sure.
Old 01-16-2012 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
I told my tuner I want to tune with the Haltech without IM first just to see what full bolt ons do....then put the IM and all on and do another tune and see what we get. Going to be interesting for sure.


GREAT!!!

With your haltech dyno testing, and my 09 motor and haltech testing we fill finally have some results!
Old 01-16-2012 | 07:27 PM
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i love this build. with these high end parts, i bet u cut into the 290's w someone really pushing the haltech. great job n i like the wheel choice too!
Old 01-17-2012 | 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SurraTT
GREAT!!!

With your haltech dyno testing, and my 09 motor and haltech testing we fill finally have some results!
Oh come on guys. You are making me feel behind but F/I is a whole different game.
Old 01-17-2012 | 06:40 AM
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2 MORE DAYS!!!!!!
Old 01-17-2012 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
i highly doubt 290whp... but this is interesting, a max of 280whp seems a bit of a push but believable of some sort yea
Always some doubters naysayers.....Yeah he can have 280+ whp and not be part of the MD click.......
Go for it Ranmas hope you get 300+ whp.......
Old 01-17-2012 | 08:02 AM
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^^ there you go again lol....... i missed where he mentioned haltech.... with some very good tuning i can see the 280's
Old 01-17-2012 | 11:14 AM
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I wonder what the auto version of your car would do.
Old 01-19-2012 | 02:20 PM
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ITS FINALLY HERE!!!!!

Powder coated SFR Intake Manifold









Still waiting on Haltech....should arrive next week!!!
Old 01-19-2012 | 03:00 PM
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Fancy looking Manifold. Congrats.


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