hOPE FOR SOME HELP
#1
hOPE FOR SOME HELP
I just swapped in a 3.5. I don't have the axles installed yet but it starts and the speedometer needle was sitting on the bottom like normal when at idle then it jumped to about 3 miles/hr. I was hoping someone can shed some light into that.
Also, the rpm needle stays at 1200 even after warmup. Is that an IACV or TPS issue? I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference.
So I'm just using my judgement for adjustment, but can that be why the rpm needle doesn't get down to 650-750?
Also, the rpm needle stays at 1200 even after warmup. Is that an IACV or TPS issue? I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference.
So I'm just using my judgement for adjustment, but can that be why the rpm needle doesn't get down to 650-750?
#2
I just swapped in a 3.5. I don't have the axles installed yet but it starts and the speedometer needle was sitting on the bottom like normal when at idle then it jumped to about 3 miles/hr. I was hoping someone can shed some light into that.
Also, the rpm needle stays at 1200 even after warmup. Is that an IACV or TPS issue? I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference.
So I'm just using my judgement for adjustment, but can that be why the rpm needle doesn't get down to 650-750?
Also, the rpm needle stays at 1200 even after warmup. Is that an IACV or TPS issue? I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference.
So I'm just using my judgement for adjustment, but can that be why the rpm needle doesn't get down to 650-750?
"I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference."
andIi have a feeling that's what is causing your idle issue.
#5
post some pics of your TB setup. I'm not sure what you mean by
"I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference."
andIi have a feeling that's what is causing your idle issue.
"I can't adjust the TPS with the feeler gauge (continuity at 0.012" and no continuity at 0.016") because it doesn't have a stop screw for reference."
andIi have a feeling that's what is causing your idle issue.
I had the tps set too far at idle, it was 0.59v, so I used my EMU and its original setting with the 3.0 throttle body to get it back to 0.42v @ idle. Now it seems pretty good. Until I took it out or a test drive. The 3.5 sounds pretty hoarsy compared to the 3.0 I just hope that's normal. Also it was smoking in the engine bay. I couldn't see where from in particular, just smoking in general. I checked the oil and its not milky and there's no white smoke from exhaust, I hope it's just the engine breaking in. But it runs. I haven't tuned it yet.
I will post some pics too! Im at work now.
#6
#8
Looks good!!
I see you extended the IACV wires using the 4th gen iacv with a nipple on the manifold
You can cut off the 'top' part of the TB that used to hold the motor for a cleaner look.
TPS is secured solid to the TB looks like 4th gen TB piece jbwelded.
what's the specs of the motor build (headers cams udp) and your tuning plan, v-afc2, EU?
AFPR set at 51Psi?
I would reinforce the stock harness o-ring grounds (on the manifold) with a 8-gauge ground wire straight to the NEGATIVE battery terminal. Grounds for ALL engine sensors are routed through there, and it's a plus to give it a direct source.
I see you extended the IACV wires using the 4th gen iacv with a nipple on the manifold
You can cut off the 'top' part of the TB that used to hold the motor for a cleaner look.
TPS is secured solid to the TB looks like 4th gen TB piece jbwelded.
what's the specs of the motor build (headers cams udp) and your tuning plan, v-afc2, EU?
AFPR set at 51Psi?
I would reinforce the stock harness o-ring grounds (on the manifold) with a 8-gauge ground wire straight to the NEGATIVE battery terminal. Grounds for ALL engine sensors are routed through there, and it's a plus to give it a direct source.
Last edited by vipervadim; 11-09-2014 at 07:43 PM.
#9
Yes It's around 51psi. But I Can't really tell since the gauge is cheap & weird, but it's def over 45psi and under 60psi. I got a lot of rattling under the car that wasn't there before the 3.5. Think it's the o2 banging the heat shield. I have a big hole in my muffler too which makes it sound pretty bad.
Specs are stock DE headers.
HR cams and pistons.
Arp all around. Didn't want to take any chances and I got the arp stuff for good prices. The cams and pistons I paid $120 shipped for all.
It untuned right now, but plan on using an emu. I never tuned before but from Dandymax's writeup, it seems that I can datalog it then fine adjust points. Or do an autotune via af target map, and fine adjust that way.As long as not lean I'm happy.
EDIT:
Yep the TPS mount is from a 4th gen throttle body as you said, jb welded to the 5.5 throttle body.
I will definitely use some 8ga wire to the battery fir the grounds.
Specs are stock DE headers.
HR cams and pistons.
Arp all around. Didn't want to take any chances and I got the arp stuff for good prices. The cams and pistons I paid $120 shipped for all.
It untuned right now, but plan on using an emu. I never tuned before but from Dandymax's writeup, it seems that I can datalog it then fine adjust points. Or do an autotune via af target map, and fine adjust that way.As long as not lean I'm happy.
EDIT:
Yep the TPS mount is from a 4th gen throttle body as you said, jb welded to the 5.5 throttle body.
I will definitely use some 8ga wire to the battery fir the grounds.
Last edited by Maximeltman; 11-14-2014 at 12:43 AM.
#10
Update:
It runs pretty good for being untuned. When it starts up I kinda have to feather the gas a bit like the 00vi, but then it gets a pretty nice idle.
After it warms up to operating temp, it gets kinda shakey though. And the exhaust pipe hitting the heat shield is pretty annoying. Could this be from the plugs that I'm using? The plugs are for the vq35de, but I'm using hr pistons so I'm thinking that the squish and compression might be too aggressive for the de plugs maybe?
It runs pretty good for being untuned. When it starts up I kinda have to feather the gas a bit like the 00vi, but then it gets a pretty nice idle.
After it warms up to operating temp, it gets kinda shakey though. And the exhaust pipe hitting the heat shield is pretty annoying. Could this be from the plugs that I'm using? The plugs are for the vq35de, but I'm using hr pistons so I'm thinking that the squish and compression might be too aggressive for the de plugs maybe?
#12
I havent done too much reading here just the last post.
The smoke (transparent white, not thick white) is normal after any big project in the engine bay, burning spilled fluids and human skin, my fave smell.
What did you do about the piston clearance??? You should experience nvh once the motor has warmed up and everything has expanded, if you did nothing about it...
The smoke (transparent white, not thick white) is normal after any big project in the engine bay, burning spilled fluids and human skin, my fave smell.
What did you do about the piston clearance??? You should experience nvh once the motor has warmed up and everything has expanded, if you did nothing about it...
Last edited by aackshun; 12-03-2014 at 08:46 PM.
#13
I havent done too much reading here just the last post.
The smoke (transparent white, not thick white) is normal after any big project in the engine bay, burning spilled fluids and human skin, my fave smell.
What did you do about the piston clearance??? You should experience nvh once the motor has warmed up and everything has expanded, if you did nothing about it...
The smoke (transparent white, not thick white) is normal after any big project in the engine bay, burning spilled fluids and human skin, my fave smell.
What did you do about the piston clearance??? You should experience nvh once the motor has warmed up and everything has expanded, if you did nothing about it...
What is nvh? No Valve hitting?
#17
Correct and you did the fly cutting already so poo.
I have 0 experience in this dept. Never done pistons before so i couldnt tell you of this was piston related or tune related or w/e
Try removing the knock sensor tho to kill timing for safety sake and see what that does. Cant hurt?
I have 0 experience in this dept. Never done pistons before so i couldnt tell you of this was piston related or tune related or w/e
Try removing the knock sensor tho to kill timing for safety sake and see what that does. Cant hurt?
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