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Metal bracing behind seat

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Old 07-23-2002, 08:39 PM
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Metal bracing behind seat

I was wondering if this was of any importance other than support for the back seats. I was thinking about taking the back seat out along with this for my subs but i dont know if that metal brace is needed.
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Old 07-23-2002, 08:54 PM
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I don't know that it is needed, but it certainly doesn't hurt haveing a little crossbracing. The gains that you have from removing it will be minimal. A better fix for this would be to trade in your maxima for a 240, or any two seater for that matter. Personally, I removed mine, covered it in Cascade VB2DHD, and layered it in glass and carbon with epoxy resin. I think I layered the front side in VB2DHD again, would have to look again to be sure. If your sub is so pitiful that you need to remove the rear seat, it's time to trade in your maxima for a hyundai, or kia.
 
Old 07-23-2002, 09:22 PM
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I'm taking out my entire back seat and and sealing off my trunk and having my subs where my seats used to be. Facing towards the windshield. As for my subs being pitiful i have three Eclipse titanium 10's and I dont think thats very pitiful,
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Old 07-23-2002, 10:14 PM
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Originally posted by flabarm
I'm taking out my entire back seat and and sealing off my trunk and having my subs where my seats used to be. Facing towards the windshield. As for my subs being pitiful i have three Eclipse titanium 10's and I dont think thats very pitiful,
Then your enclosure / install are pitiful.
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
 
Old 07-24-2002, 07:38 AM
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You guys aren't understanding what I'm asking. I want to take my back seat out and make my eclosure where it was. I plan on competing in soundoffs and stuff like that. Thats why I want to take out the brace. So is the brace of any importance.
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Old 07-24-2002, 12:03 PM
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No, I understand exactly what you are trying to do. That's why I posted the link, which gives specific explanation for not installing the sub where you said. It only takes 10-30 minutses to remove the seat, and the metal panel behind it. If you consider the link you could make an enclosure which has the advantages of proper placement and driver orientation. If you do this and still want less bass trapped in the trunk, you can vent the rear deck, and reinforce the area that remains. Even if the piece of steel behind the seat only imparts a tiny fraction of a percentage of body rigidity, it will have an effect on SQ and SPL. We build our speaker boxes extremely rigid to aid in SQ and SPL. Our vehicles should get the same or more respect.
 
Old 07-24-2002, 12:40 PM
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Originally posted by jmax
No, I understand exactly what you are trying to do. That's why I posted the link, which gives specific explanation for not installing the sub where you said. It only takes 10-30 minutses to remove the seat, and the metal panel behind it. If you consider the link you could make an enclosure which has the advantages of proper placement and driver orientation. If you do this and still want less bass trapped in the trunk, you can vent the rear deck, and reinforce the area that remains. Even if the piece of steel behind the seat only imparts a tiny fraction of a percentage of body rigidity, it will have an effect on SQ and SPL. We build our speaker boxes extremely rigid to aid in SQ and SPL. Our vehicles should get the same or more respect.
Ill Drink to that!!! Man talk about destroying a good car.
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Old 07-24-2002, 12:46 PM
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Originally posted by Redmax


Ill Drink to that!!! Man talk about destroying a good car.
I have to go to the grocery store before I can drink to anything. I only have enough left in the house to keep me off the roads the rest of the evening.
 
Old 07-24-2002, 01:10 PM
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jmax - that's a good link. Some of it is still a tad bit over my head. I have a lot to learn in the EE/physics aspects of audio, and really, don't care to learn a lot of it, and would rather go off the advice of those that can demonstrate the knowledge and also trust my ears. (Basically, I try to learn/know as much about audio as I can without delving into the deep mathematical/physics side of it).

Personally with the advice of others and my ears, I've always felt corner-firing & rear trunk/rear firing produced the best results (the latter of which was reaffirmed by the link). But I usually choose corner-firing. What are your thoughts on corner-firing?
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Old 07-24-2002, 07:11 PM
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Originally posted by blizz20oma
jmax - that's a good link. Some of it is still a tad bit over my head. I have a lot to learn in the EE/physics aspects of audio, and really, don't care to learn a lot of it, and would rather go off the advice of those that can demonstrate the knowledge and also trust my ears. (Basically, I try to learn/know as much about audio as I can without delving into the deep mathematical/physics side of it).

Personally with the advice of others and my ears, I've always felt corner-firing & rear trunk/rear firing produced the best results (the latter of which was reaffirmed by the link). But I usually choose corner-firing. What are your thoughts on corner-firing?
To input my thoughts I would have to try it. I havn't yet. But JL audio uses a corner loaded design in the maxima box. It's corner slot loaded. And I havn't heard many peoply complain about the performance, especially considering it is a single, mid-power range, 10 inch driver.
 
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