Hey everyone, just had a JL 12W7 installed yesterday, powered by the 1000/1. WOW! Few things though...

1. What (if anything) have people put between the license plate and the trunk (ie-under the license plate) to prevent it vibrating and sounding bad on the outside and such?

2. Anyone else notice that turning UP the volume on the BOSE Head Unit actually decreases the bass level? It's a built-in kind of thing I guess. With about half volume (amp turned all the way up), cranking the volume to full doesn't increase the bass one lick..if anything it actually decreases it. Anyone else notice this? If so, looks like it's time to start saving for the Kenwood 911-DVD/LCD so I can really HEAR the 12W7 (as if what it is now isn't amazing, I want all it has!).

Take it easy all...I'm going to go back and drive my car!!

 

To stop my license plate from rattling I used a few pieces of foam weather stripping right on the back of it. It took the rattle away.

 

Dynamat Extreme on the plate.

The reason for the sub sound problem, is that you are hooked through a high level converter (quite possibly a cheap one). This dramaticly reduces the sound quality of any after market amp.

--Don

 

Dynomat license plate thingy, got mine at circut city, I think it was only like 10 bucks...it has some dynamat for the back of ur plate, and a cool thing tohold ur plate on

 

Thanks, Ima check it out.

 

let me get this straight...you have the amp turned all the way up? thats REALLY REALLY bad. if you have it like that, youre probably clipping the hell out of it, which would explain not getting more out of it by turning it up.

eric

 

that's what I was under the impression of. I will check on it though. (I didn't do the install myself, and just sorta relaying what I was told)

 

I just had a Dynamat trunk kit installed. However, they didn't touch the read deck at all. Maybe it's just me (I really doubt it), but the rattles sound SO MUHC LOUDER NOW!! I don't get it? Could it be that the read deck is still rattling, and everything else isn't, so it's louder than just everything rattling or vibrating in unisom?

Anyways, I don't want to pay to get the rear deck dynamtted, too much money, and can't believe they didn't do it to begin with. Anyways, I looked through the search function, and I'm confused? Does dynamat need to be heated or not when installing? If not, how easy is it to really put the stuff on?

I also saw some stuff about Peel and Seal. Sounds decent. But I hear people talking about putting multiple layers on. I don't really want to put so much of this stuff on, considering that all this matting really doesn't come off. To me it seems like no one will ever want to buy my car in the future with the pounds and pounds of rattle deadening material I have in the trunk.

Also, I hear people saying they've done the bottom and TOP of the rear deck? So wait, you have this stuff showing INSIDE your car? I can see how it's probalby needed, but what does that look like? Does anyone have pics of what they've done to their rear deck to get the rattles to just GO AWAY? If so, I'd LOVE to see them. I'd also LOVE any advice anyone can give!! Thanks, I just want to hear my system the way it's supposed to sound! Thanks.

 

ur rear deck is a carpet under that carpet is sheet metal, you dynamat the sheet metel on top, then put the carpet back on!

 

So I just looked at it, and I see what you're saying. But how exactly do you get that top piece of carpet off without really messing it up?

 

...there are written instructions somewhere, i dont have the link sorry, ill explain best i can...

1) Take off the bottom bench to your back seat...three pins stuck in the base of ur car, just pull with a lotta force, they will pop rite out no problem...

2) 4 screws need to be taken out, 1 on each side of the rear seat...kinda near the seat buckle...but lower almost near the ground...then 2 more in the ski hole...now, pop that rear seat off, lefting out then up...again 3 pins hold it in...

3) Remove the rear brake light, and bracket from rear dash...bracket is just 2 phillips screws in the dash...

4) Remove carpeted piece, secured by maybe 4 pins...just lift up and pull

5) Spread your dynamat or peel and seel or just admire ur work that took 10 minutes getting it all off

 

Ok so I got through most of that pretty well. However, I'm seeming to still have a hard time lifting the carpet completely out. It seems stuck on the sides and the far far back portion of it. I've got the pins from the trunk pushed through, but the sides of the carpet piece are under the plastic piece on the frame part. Know what I mean? Can I pop those off to get it, or is there just something else that I'm missing that won't let me get that entire piece out. I spoke with someone who just lifted it up like I can do, and just stuffed it with foam, but I'd love to be able to actually get it all off, and put some dynamat down first, and then maybe some foam as well.

 

i just twisted and pulled mine and it slowly slid out...its a pretty tight fit thats for sure...

 

Thanks, I'll just keep the tuggin...

 

Actually you need to pop out those panels on the sides where the seatbelts are. Pull off the rubber door jamb seal and pop them out. Be very careful as they tend to crack near the bottom.


--Don