Nismo, you cable modem frier.

Basically two won't fit. Unless you are willing to cut the steel frame that is the structure of the rear deck. A single 15 will fit in the middle. Or, possibly angle the drivers. This has potential. I will have to play around with it a little to find out how much angle is needed and where the cone will end up faceing.

 

just so long as i can get them to fit...i dont really care about cutting, as i would have to cut the deck for them to sit in there anyway

eric

 

Well don't order the brahma's yet. It could take a bit of tweaking to get this angle thing correct.

 

well...that would be kinda tough...ive had 1 since preorder, and ordered a 2nd a few weeks ago.

eric

 

Go IDMAX and youll get better SQ!!!!! LOL.

And if you do end up with the Brahma's be carefull they dont excurt out enough to hit your window! LOL

 

I assumed he was aware of the > 1" excursion if he was considering this driver. I know it is never wise to assume, but it is one of the most popular selling points. I'm going to try and make a model of the top 3 1/2 inches of the frame. This should take it down to where it starts getting narrower fairly fast.

 

Guys,

You should be able to get two 15s to fit, you just need to be a bit more creative. You should consider slot loading them. The two drivers fire into a slot that then mounts up to the rear deck. The drivers are still infinate baffle, or free air.

I've personally never tried this, but have heard of it done. I guess the only question is if the slot that you build needs to be tuned.

 

why not just cut out ur whole rear deck, and rebuild using MDF ... this will get you a side on your box...and also will eliminate some rattles...2 15's should then fit...or maybe im undersizing the size of a 15 i only got 2 12's i kno those would fit easily

 

NOW somebody's talking my language...except id use birch ply, cuz its stronger and lighter.

eric

 

My entire rear deck is cut out. It is only wide enough in the center for the fifteen. You might be able to put two in but they need to be butted up against each other. Even then they won't be able to be mounted flat. That's what I was saying about the frame of the rear deck. If you take your rear deck apart there is a hollow steel frame around the edge. Right behind the rear seat and up under the glass. Between this area is just thin sheet steal which is easy to cut and replace. But cutting the hollow frame section would jeopardize the vehicle.

 

is there any way to reinforce the edges? i dont care about resale value, cuz im'a drive the wheels off...i wanna run a (preferably) ported, or sealed box--which is totally sealed off from the trunk, but id like to be able to get to the top of the rear suspension. i dont mind angling them or whatever needs to be done, so long as it wont look totally forked up.

you wouldnt happen to have some pics of your rear deck, would ya

thanx,
eric

 

Reinforceing the deck is needed even in my deck that doesn't have the frame section cut. I want to play around with some models of the fifteen before I decide to get them or just another twelve. How to reinforce it more is a good question. aircraft grade aluminum ir heavier steal is an option if you know someone who can do quality metalwork. I don't know anyone like that. I mean someone who I would trust with torch in my car, standing right over the gas tank no less. Building a sealed box into the deck is not extremely hard. But it sure as hell ain't easy to get it right without a lot of forethought. There are just so many little areas to seal off that apear out of nowhere. The pair of fifteen's is physically do-able in a sealed enclosure or infinite baffle, or AP. But the baffle will be tough. And for a sealed box a lot of work will have to be done to get the required volume for two drivers. Unless you don't mind not having a trunk. But I kinda like mine. The ported 15 would be very hard. A flexible port would make it much easier, but the volume of the box would be immense for two drivers. Still possible, but more trunk donated to sound.

For a couple pics of my deck check: http://www.dcmax.org/photo.htm

 

well, my friends dad does car restoration/metal work/fiberglass work for a living. he took a split window vette from the doors not shutting (mistfitting) to as good or better than factory, with perfect panel gaps--$16k worth of body work

as for box size, its either ~3 cubes (each) sealed, or a little over 6 ft3 plus ports. and no i dont wanna lose access to the trunk or spare, so innovative thinking is a requirement. my only concern is how to get to the top of the rear suspension. i know id like to tie into them for strengthening the rear rigidity, but i dont have a clue how to...unless there could be some way of doing it thru the rear deck?!?!

thanx again,
eric

 

Well, I have never seen a pic of the RSTB. So I can't comment on how much it would get in the way. But a creative box could take it into account, or act as the RSTB. The Brahma can sound good with 2.5 ft cubed, especially with generous high quality fill material. The vented enclosure is big even before you account for the vent dimensions. Decide asap if you want max spl or max sq. Because the differnce between the two will be drastically different boxes.

 

i was hoping to use the box AS the rstb, rather than including it...as for sq/spl--i have heard a little over 6 ft3 @ 30 hz in an s10, and i loved the sound, so thats probably what ill do. i thought about a removable port, but decided that was a bad idea

eric

 

btw, that 6 ft3 is total

eric

 

So you are saying 6ft^3 each? That's a no trunk solution. The biggest problem with the subs in the rear deck and a vented enclsure will be where to have the ports. The deck will be mostly taken up by the two drivers. I guess since the dirvers will be mounted right up against each other there might be enough room on the outside edges for the vents. The beauty of haveing the box that large is that the port length is drastically less. A 5.5 inch diameter port is less than eight inches long for 30 Hz tuning.

 

Okay, just remember that the smaller box means a longer port for the same tuning frequency. And you can run into trouble fitting the port in the box real quick. I don' know how accurate winisd is, so I would double check any box the program comes up with. But it looks like having the subs share a 6.0 cubic foot chamber might solve a lot of these issues.

The box can definitely serve as a rear stabalizer. If it is well made. And baltic birch is the flimsiest material I would consider for this driver. But it may boil down to if you can afford to pay your friends dad $16,000 for a custom sub enclosure. And if he has any experience building speaker boxes.

 

ive been talking to dan wiggins about what to use. he suggestests baltic birch ply for its rigidity, and for being lightweight...otherwise, ill probably use trupan.

eric

 

I picked up some baltic birch for the first time about a month ago. I am very impressed by it's strength/rigidity. And screw holding power looks as though it will be very good.