Rockford 4ch amp, model # G400A4 (I think it's 500+ watts)
Rockford 10" speaker model # RFP 2410 (it ranged from good, better, best)
Single sealed 10" box
All for $370, I left a $20 deposit (wallet was low)
Let me know because I'm planning on picking up my pieces on Thurs. I need to know if I got raped, so I can go back and ask for a better deal or give me back my "entire" $20, wow

 

I just purchesed a 400a4 for 219 and the sub, is that just a regular punch..if so I would say you need to go to ubid.com I have done a lot of bussiness with them with no problems.....I recently bought 2 HE2 10" for 51 a piece
there are alot better deals out there but you are buying over the internet so reterns will be harded and it will take some time to get your stuff(week or so) Patiance is a good thing to have.....hope it works out for you....
ps I have some stuff for sell, I can get you 2 12"kickers and a kenwood kac719 monoblock amp for 275 the kickers have a box...and if you want a special box the one in my sig is for sale....email if your interested....

 

The Autophile is selling the amp for $280 and the sub for $100. So you are probably getting a pretty decent deal, but there are better, you just have to look real hard.

 

i replied to your alternator amperage question, twice (also 3rd gen bbs), never got a response. why a four channel amp for one sub? is it a dvc sub?

 

That's what I'm trying to figure out, which route to go between a 2ch or 4ch amp. I already have replace the stock bose system with 6X9 Rock in back and 5" Rock in doors with a Kenwood KCR 407 pushing them. With this set-up I was satisfied for the past 1.5yrs, now its time to move on. I'm a family man and unable to put a huge sub box with multiple speakers. So, since a JL stealth not available for the 3rd gen, I'm stuck with either a 10" or 12" one speaker sub box. Now I'm only looking to enhance my current sound (no competition sound level for me) but, quality is a must. I'm a novice when it comes to audio mods, so I'm going from what I have heard and been told. If I go with the 4ch, I can bridge two chs together to push the sub, while using the other two to push my current speakers. If I go with a 2ch amp, more than likey I'll bridge the two ch into one to push the sub and doing this there's a posibility my sub may over power the current speakers (too much bass and not enough mids and highs) Anyway, I'm rambling here and I'm pretty sure there are many other routes I could go but if I wait too long my desire for audio mods will be gone. This is kinda my X-Mas present to my self. Hopefully this gives a little light to why I "might" go with a 4ch amp.

 

That would be a pretty decent setup. Use the first channel pair to run the front speakers and the second channel pair to power the sub. Power the rear fill with the HU. The price is decent, but if you really want a lower price, try some internet dealers. Does that price include the enclosure and the wiring?

 

yeah it makes sense now. the KRC is your head unit, i was thinking it was an amp.

sounds like a good set up, run the 5s on 1+2, and bridge 3+4 for the sub. That will give you a very good power balance. the 5s will be stronger and cleaner with the extra power. try using the high pass crossover on the amp set at 80-100mhz to block the difficult lows from the 5s. this will effectivly give the 5s more power handling capabilities because they are not tring to play frequencies that are most prone to distort.

 

Agree, but high pass at 150 Hz or higher for the 5" drivers.

 

Nope. Highpass the 5.25s at 80Hz or lower, if they can handle it. You want as much midbass up front as possible. Otherwise, the system will sound bad with all of the bass noticeably coming from the rear. To set the xover, shut-off all of the other speakers and play a CD with lots of low bass at normal listening volume through the fronts only. See how low you can set the xover without distortion. Then set the sub lowpass for approximately the same point (you could try a little bit of overlapping).

 

I just pick up my parts today, now lets see how long it takes me to hook up everyhting. I'm looking to make a custom board so I can bolt to the back seats. On this board I'll secure all my electronic goodies, amps, changer, etc. Now I know some are thinking why dont I just secure the electronic goodies to the back seats. Well, the reason being I'm trying to isolate all electronic items from the car chassis. It may not make a difference, but who knows? Thanks again for you alls imput. Kinda made me glad I got what I got, later

 

Micah,
5's simply can't play 80 Hz. That's why I said to pass at 150 because of all the additional power handling. Besides, they should only be 12-15 dB down at 75 Hz that way. Unless you aren't using enough power. Then go ahead with the lower crossover point. For me, I am just going to keep getting bigger and bigger mid base drivers until they can hit the 70 or 75 Hz range with headroom. For most rock you will be akay with the 80Hz setting but if you listen to a lot of rap or dance music with tons of midbase and you like to turnup the base(most headunits have a loudnes or base boost function which acts at a fairly high midbase frequency) - the 5's will sound like a snare drum with a loose snare.

Add to your post to play with the polarity settings on the two 5's individually to get the best stereo image.

 

At least half of the 5.25s on the market will have no problem playing 80Hz. I've done it before. I run my front 6.5s down to 65Hz. And I listen to all kinds of music at high volumes.

 

I cut a 1/2 plywood sheet to fit my back seat, it gave a solid place to hook the amps, plus I was always switching stuff around, and I didn't want to make a pin cushion out of the trunk liner and seat. when I get some time I plan to make a false back with the amp cooling fins sticking through cut outs.

 

I must be the only on here who has enough power.

 

Oh, I have enough power.

 

.

 

If your just using the little Alpine 352 then you've only got 30X4 for the components, unless you bridge it to the max power at 14.4V of 120X2. And keep your voltage up. Don't get me wrong, I love the quality of alpine but it is not well known for being generous in supplying power.

 

8 channel a/d/s for highs and mids Bridged MRV-1000 to two 2ohm BA 12.5s. 40 to tweets, and rear fill, 120 to drivers, and around 600 to subs.

Rethink?

 

Familar with all and no I won't rethink. Besides, your not the one with the 352 powering your system.

 

.

 

Sorry, I'm just set in my ways. It takes a very good argument to sway my opinion on certain subjects. One(2) of which are my music tastes and critical listening for details that just can't be heard with regular top of the line systems.

 

Is that not everyone is that critical when it comes to their listening tastes. I love the fact that I can be that picky, but not everyone is. There's nothing wrong with that at all.ADS makes great amps. I looked at them, and I chose the Tube Drivers because of their sound. But not everyone likes the sound of tubes. Some prefer the exactness and absolute precision of solid state. To each his own, I say.

 

I looked at the a/d/s. Saw that little fuse. Did the math - A/2 x 12.5 . . . Said way too little power and that was it.

 

we really need more audio snobs!

 

'99 SE limited, 5 spd, almost no performance mods - yet. Previosly installed 2 Nakamichi MB100's - both were POS and are in the trash. Currently using Sony ES tape with Dolby B&C and 10 disc changer. This was supposed to be an accessory to the Nak but that hasn't been replaced yet. RF Symmetry w/28 band EQ card. One pair DA silk tweets in kickpanels, second to be mounted in A-pillar in near future. Both to be controlled by L-pads. 2 DA 5 1/4 HEX in each kickpanel. 2 DA 6 1/2 HEX in each front door. 1 DA HEX 8 in each rear door - not yet connected.

Alpine MRV-F505 currently powering the tweets and a small bandpass box which is just tossed in the trunk until I finnish the sub box. PG 475Ti front channel powering the 5 1/4's at 2 ohms, rear channel powering the 6 1/2's at 2 ohms. MTX 1000D currently sitting behind me to power the 3 DA MD12.8's. Rated dual 4 ohm voice coils, RE 3.0 per coil. The MTX is tested at 1244 Watts at 2 ohms with 12.5 volts. I am still working on getting the sub box frame properly seated and getting all the mounting bolts placed. Then I will wrap it in a couple layers 12oz/yd 8HS carbon fabric, blue kevlar, 0.430 inch nomex honeycomb, blue kevlar, and a couple layers 12oz.yd 8HS carbon. The baffle board is 1 1/8 inch thick MDF mounted on top of where the rear deck once resided. The box is bolted through (almost complete) the bottom of the rear deck.

Future mods planned but no budget currently exists - carbon and Kevlar ain't cheap, unless you go to the source. But even then several yards(8+8+A+B+C) start running up the costs.

 

for a spectacular system. how do you get enough juice to run it. extra alternator, high output?

i get some dome light fade at high bass output with an optima yellow and 1.5 farad cap. i very seldom drive the maxima at night cause there are too damn many deer, so I don't really no what the headlights would do at wov.

 

you in VA? i'de love to hook up in the spring to get a listen! maybe at the Northeast, Philly or DC meet.

 

I've got a 185 amp-hot rated alt and the alumapro CAP. An no 185 ams isn't enough to deal with the 1000D so I am trying to figure out a spot for another alt, without removing the power steering or AC compressor.

 

Looks like a couple of my fingers fell asleep.

 

just a guess, but maybe you can get whatever they use to tie in the supercharger to retrofit the second alternator.

after all a second alternator is like forced induction for tunes.

 

would anyone care to explain how a bridge is done with amps? how would you wire a 2 channel amp(25x2) 4ohm and 2ohm stable to 2 subs to produce the most power? i'm not crazy... it's an old MTX competition terminator. makes way more than 25x2

 

I am not familiar with that amp. I am sure that the people at mtxaudio.com will recognize it and be willing to help with the correct wiring. I think the even have the 1-800 # listed on the site, but I've got it here 800-CALL-MTX.