Ok here's my list for upgrading the stock non Bose stereo system for my 2003 Max SE.

Alpine CDA-7894.....$399.99 or should get the Alpine CDA-7995.....$499.99

Kicker Resolution RS6c 6-1/2" Component System for the front......$349.99

Rear Speakers need help, they are just 6.5" coaxials? Or should go custom route and get some components. Add your $0.02


Alpine Type R SWR-1221D 12" Dual 2-ohm Voice Coil Subwoofer......$199.99
should I get 2 subwoofers or just stick with one. Also if I get one subwoofer should I just get a Q logic box, in the case I get 2 subwoofers should I get a custom box made, PLEASE NEED OPINIONS and HELP

Also what amp(JL, Alpine) should I use to push the front, rear speakers, and subwoofer(s)? Should I just power the front components and the subwoofer off a JL 300/4 amp? PLEASE HELP

 

Check This Out Less Money!!!

am getting also this unit plus

Infinity Kappas in 4 doors and a JL Box along with 2 amps!!

 

i would get 2 12" alpine type R's (2 ohm subs) and power them with a JL1000.1

for ur comp. the jl 300/4 should be amazing!

 

I like the 7894,,,it has pretty much the same as the 95, but with the built in amp if needed,,, and a little less $$$.

As for speakers, why not look at Alpine components and coaxials to go with your Alpine headunit and sub? Crutchfield has a "2 fer 1" sale right now on the subs, so if you go with 1 or 2 12's that might help. If nothing else, you can get the 2,,,,try one out and see if you want more bass or not. I have one 10", and I'm happy for now. You can even get a couple of Alpine amps to push your speakers and subs. A 4-channel for the front and rear, and a mono block for the sub(s).

If you like JL amps, why not check out the JL components and coaxials too. I have heard good stuff about them.

I am not sure as to what will be "best" for you, cause that depends on your taste, budget, and ears. I am just one that kinda likes to keep things matched as much as possible with what you have to work with. I'm not one to have this head unit, that speaker, another amp, and some other subs...you know, like 10 diff name brands in 1 car,,,,but that's just my $.02,,,,or maybe $.10...hehe

Whatever you choose, good luck, and enjoy!!! DMAN

 

I would recommend the amps THUMPINMAX gave. Also I would get JL or FOCAL components in the front and coax in the back. Also I am getting the Alpine Type R's for $130.

 

Most of the guys at the Sound Domain forums would recommend that you don't do rear speakers at all. You should get better sound quality with just a good pair of commponent fronts. Focal, Crystal, MB Quart, and Alpine Type R are excellent.

Power them with a 2 channel amp and you can easily expand with another 2 channel and rear speakers if you think you need it.

 

Most of the time the reason why they say this is because the air from the SUBS have no way to get into the cabin, but in the 2k3 max's we have a sub in the back dash and our speakers are on the rear doors, so trust me when I say it is better to put back replacement speakers in the rear. I am actually thinking of going with components in the rear, but I like more of an SQ, but you can get away with COAX.

 

Actually the reason they usually give is that the sound waves from the rears causes interference and cancellations in the sound from the fronts. They will also say that since the fronts are closer to the driver that they contribute much more to the driver's perception of the sound quality which is usually the point.

Since it's almost trivial to add an additional amp and rear speakers once the fronts are done this also seems like an economical and flexible approach too.

 

It is very difficult to cancel sound from the rear 6.5 speakers to the front 6.5" speakers. And since the speakers are one the rear doors of our cars, i would highly recommed either keeping or replacing the speakers, basically don't just take them out of disconnect them.

 

well Dohcser,,,,I think I will have to agree with 95~SE on this. Majority of the posts I have read about not putting in rear speakers are actually for BETTER sound. And yes you can cancel out sound from the rear to the front speakers,,,,turn your fader and see what happens. It is my understanding that when you have just fronts and subs, it gives you better sound due to the fact that you are able to distinguish between the highs/mids in front, and the lows from the subs in back. Some people say this is a better sound. Then when you put the rear speakers in, if they put too much mids into the sound, you don't seem to get such a noticeable bass range out of your system, it all just kind runs together. Alot of the guys I have heard talk about it, myself included, only use the rear speakers for rear fill. I keep my system faded a little to the front most of the time for better sound (TO ME). When I do have riders in back, I do however fade a little to the back for their enjoyment also...

Keep in mind though, that what sounds best to ME might not sound the same to you...that's why they are "opinions"....hehe

DMAN

 

I'm going to take the 4+ hour treck up to NJ to see PearlMax. I just bought the following from his recommendations.

Diamond Audio HEXS600s Seperates
Diamond Audio D5300.2 amp with RAF for the rear coax's
Diamond Audio 361i Coax's
Eclipse 5442 HU

I already have a JL 250/1 and a 12w3

 

I would agree with you if the rear speakers were projecting from the rear deck, however in our cars the rear speakers are on the doors. I have an RTA meter and when I checked with the rear on and off I actually lost SQ with it off. Now in most cases your EAR should be the judge, but I notice an improvment with the rear DOOR speakers turned on. JUST MY .02

 

You asked for an opinion, so here it comes. I would get Koda, Dynaudio, Utopia, Morel, Illusion Audio, Image Dynamics or some other high quality components. Install the components in custom kick panels. Install an 8-10 inch mid bass in each front door. Power the components with a 4 X 100 watt amp. Power the midbass with a 150-200 watt stereo amp. Get a headunit without internal amp that will only cause it to heat up excessively and lower sound quality. Use the bass engine pro to control a pair of subs. Build a sub enclosure that fits your musical preferences. Power it accordingly.