how do i wire a neon bulb to amp??
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
how do i wire a neon bulb to amp??
I'm thinking of getting some neon bulbs to put in my trunk and someone mentioned wiring it to my amp. how do i go about doing this, or should i not do it, and just wire it to something else? i have a rockford fosgate 400w amp w/ 2 RF subs. what should i do?
#2
Re: how do i wire a neon bulb to amp??
Originally posted by NYMax
I'm thinking of getting some neon bulbs to put in my trunk and someone mentioned wiring it to my amp. how do i go about doing this, or should i not do it, and just wire it to something else? i have a rockford fosgate 400w amp w/ 2 RF subs. what should i do?
I'm thinking of getting some neon bulbs to put in my trunk and someone mentioned wiring it to my amp. how do i go about doing this, or should i not do it, and just wire it to something else? i have a rockford fosgate 400w amp w/ 2 RF subs. what should i do?
#4
Re: how do i wire a neon bulb to amp??
Originally posted by NYMax
I'm thinking of getting some neon bulbs to put in my trunk and someone mentioned wiring it to my amp. how do i go about doing this, or should i not do it, and just wire it to something else? i have a rockford fosgate 400w amp w/ 2 RF subs. what should i do?
I'm thinking of getting some neon bulbs to put in my trunk and someone mentioned wiring it to my amp. how do i go about doing this, or should i not do it, and just wire it to something else? i have a rockford fosgate 400w amp w/ 2 RF subs. what should i do?
#5
Don't do it!
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
#6
Re: Don't do it!
Originally posted by BidspayMax
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
#7
Nadir, I see what you're saying, but you make it seem like his car is a 150 foot yacht, and running one extra 18 gauge piece of wire to the front of the car is an all day affair, (it will take 5 minutes). You're already running the blue remote wire to the front, so what's one more 18 gauge wire???
Also, if you run the power wire from neon to the remote wire (I still don't think it will supply the power needed to run the amp), then every time you turn your HU on, it will turn the neons on. I only want my neons to be showing and glowing when the trunk is open. Your wasting power, and running down neon life if its turned on all of the time. Installing a switch is a 10 minute job, at most, and then you can control the neons and only turn them on if somebody is actually looking in your trunk. Or if you don't want to "run wires all throughout your car" hook it up to the trunk light, and take that little bulb out. I'm just saying that I would not splice into the remote wire, nor would I have it running on the same current as the amp!
Also, if you run the power wire from neon to the remote wire (I still don't think it will supply the power needed to run the amp), then every time you turn your HU on, it will turn the neons on. I only want my neons to be showing and glowing when the trunk is open. Your wasting power, and running down neon life if its turned on all of the time. Installing a switch is a 10 minute job, at most, and then you can control the neons and only turn them on if somebody is actually looking in your trunk. Or if you don't want to "run wires all throughout your car" hook it up to the trunk light, and take that little bulb out. I'm just saying that I would not splice into the remote wire, nor would I have it running on the same current as the amp!
#8
Originally posted by BidspayMax
Nadir, I see what you're saying, but you make it seem like his car is a 150 foot yacht, and running one extra 18 gauge piece of wire to the front of the car is an all day affair, (it will take 5 minutes). You're already running the blue remote wire to the front, so what's one more 18 gauge wire???
Also, if you run the power wire from neon to the remote wire (I still don't think it will supply the power needed to run the amp), then every time you turn your HU on, it will turn the neons on. I only want my neons to be showing and glowing when the trunk is open. Your wasting power, and running down neon life if its turned on all of the time. Installing a switch is a 10 minute job, at most, and then you can control the neons and only turn them on if somebody is actually looking in your trunk. Or if you don't want to "run wires all throughout your car" hook it up to the trunk light, and take that little bulb out. I'm just saying that I would not splice into the remote wire, nor would I have it running on the same current as the amp!
Nadir, I see what you're saying, but you make it seem like his car is a 150 foot yacht, and running one extra 18 gauge piece of wire to the front of the car is an all day affair, (it will take 5 minutes). You're already running the blue remote wire to the front, so what's one more 18 gauge wire???
Also, if you run the power wire from neon to the remote wire (I still don't think it will supply the power needed to run the amp), then every time you turn your HU on, it will turn the neons on. I only want my neons to be showing and glowing when the trunk is open. Your wasting power, and running down neon life if its turned on all of the time. Installing a switch is a 10 minute job, at most, and then you can control the neons and only turn them on if somebody is actually looking in your trunk. Or if you don't want to "run wires all throughout your car" hook it up to the trunk light, and take that little bulb out. I'm just saying that I would not splice into the remote wire, nor would I have it running on the same current as the amp!
#9
Ok use a relay to do this.
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
#10
Originally posted by wyskibumm
Ok use a relay to do this.
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
Ok use a relay to do this.
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
Either hook it to a switch, or the light in your trunk...Done!
#11
Originally posted by BidspayMax
I've installed about 2 dozen sets of neons in or on my maxima in the past, and I have no clue what those numbers mean, or what you are telling this guy to do, but it seems overly complicated. I've found that the best advice when installing neons, or other electronic equipment in your car is to keep it VERY simple, infact, OVERLY SIMPLE!
Either hook it to a switch, or the light in your trunk...Done!
I've installed about 2 dozen sets of neons in or on my maxima in the past, and I have no clue what those numbers mean, or what you are telling this guy to do, but it seems overly complicated. I've found that the best advice when installing neons, or other electronic equipment in your car is to keep it VERY simple, infact, OVERLY SIMPLE!
Either hook it to a switch, or the light in your trunk...Done!
#12
Another thing ....
..make sure that you fuse it. If you decide to go with a switch from the front, and a direct power to it - it should have a fuse. You can tap off an existing wire that has a fuse (although that could overload it) or better yet run a 16 ga. wire from your battery to a swich with a fuse on it near the batter as you would do for your amp. The neons pull very little (about .5 amps for 20" tube) but you don't want a stray wire grounding out in your dash or engine compartment!
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
whoa
thanks guys... readin all this stuff worries me about wiring it to the remote wire (which was my initial guess) and i had thought about wiring it to the trunk light so it turns on when the trunk opens, but i think i'm gonna keep it simple and just wire it to my ground effect lights and control the on off from the front of the car :x thank you though.
#14
If it helps any, the neons I have in my sub box are hooked up to the tilt switch in the trunk. I also installed a switch in-line if I choose not to turn them on automatically when the trunk is opened. I had these installed for almost 8 years of owning my Max and NEVER had a problem. Another option is to hook the neons to your light switch so that they turn on with the lighting circuit. This way, this will save you time if you don't want to wire a switch all the way up to the front. Keep it simple and you'll be fine.
#15
Originally posted by wyskibumm
Ok use a relay to do this.
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
Ok use a relay to do this.
the 5 pin relay has pin numbers, 87, 87a, 30, 85, and 86.
Do it like this
87=12 volts positive power
87a=nothing
30=output to the positive lead of the neon light
85=lead from remote turn on (blue wire)
here's mine: http://dropkick.trouble-free.net/~tl/remoterelay.jpg
#16
Re: Don't do it!
Originally posted by BidspayMax
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
#17
Why not use 2 relays wired in series? The first relay would be connected to the amp-turn-on wire. Then connect the output of that relay to the next relay. The trigger wire for the 2nd relay would be the light bulb in the trunk. That way, the neons are only on when the amps are on AND the trunk lid is open (trunk light comes on). I know it's a little more complex than the other posts, but this will ensure that you don't waste power or the neons themselves.
#18
Originally posted by studman
Why not use 2 relays wired in series? The first relay would be connected to the amp-turn-on wire. Then connect the output of that relay to the next relay. The trigger wire for the 2nd relay would be the light bulb in the trunk. That way, the neons are only on when the amps are on AND the trunk lid is open (trunk light comes on). I know it's a little more complex than the other posts, but this will ensure that you don't waste power or the neons themselves.
Why not use 2 relays wired in series? The first relay would be connected to the amp-turn-on wire. Then connect the output of that relay to the next relay. The trigger wire for the 2nd relay would be the light bulb in the trunk. That way, the neons are only on when the amps are on AND the trunk lid is open (trunk light comes on). I know it's a little more complex than the other posts, but this will ensure that you don't waste power or the neons themselves.
#19
Re: Don't do it!
Originally posted by BidspayMax
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
Hey,
From my understanding the remote wire (blue in most cases), sends a signal to the amp telling it to turn on when the headunit is turned on...but it does not supply power. That is why you have a "POWER WIRE" running from your battery directly to the power terminal on your amp, not the remote terminal. I could be completely wrong, but that's just what I would assume from looking at how an amp is wired (but you know what they say about assumptions...)
If it were my car, and I wanted to do what you want to, this is what I would do...
Get all of the neons that you want to hook up, mount them however you like, and run all of the black wires to a universal ground (i.e. a screw in the trunk), then connect all of the red wires to one long power wire and hookup a switch somewhere in the cabin of the car.
You do have another option. I have one blue 12" neon tube in my trunk, mounted to the top, completely out of sight, and it replaces the ugly yellow trunk light. It comes on when you open the trunk. Just something to think about...
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by studman
Why not use 2 relays wired in series? The first relay would be connected to the amp-turn-on wire. Then connect the output of that relay to the next relay. The trigger wire for the 2nd relay would be the light bulb in the trunk. That way, the neons are only on when the amps are on AND the trunk lid is open (trunk light comes on). I know it's a little more complex than the other posts, but this will ensure that you don't waste power or the neons themselves.
Why not use 2 relays wired in series? The first relay would be connected to the amp-turn-on wire. Then connect the output of that relay to the next relay. The trigger wire for the 2nd relay would be the light bulb in the trunk. That way, the neons are only on when the amps are on AND the trunk lid is open (trunk light comes on). I know it's a little more complex than the other posts, but this will ensure that you don't waste power or the neons themselves.
#21
Re: Re: Don't do it!
Originally posted by kickyoazzz
bidspaymax, so basically you tapped power from the trunk dome light for the 12" neon? and that was sufficient?
bidspaymax, so basically you tapped power from the trunk dome light for the 12" neon? and that was sufficient?
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